Messages

Pack your bags and go to Hollywood 

To add my 2 cents to this thread, I've had ML on a T4i and on a 7D, both of which I've sold and now have a T6S/760D which I am finding superior to both cameras. I'm not finding the video degradation that some expect with it's lowered bitrate. And to me, it seems like the dynamic range is definitely improved. The HDR video mode is a nice add, but is only really noticeable outdoors. It is non-adjustable and this is one place where having ML would really help so that the ISOs could be adjusted. I definitely pitched in to help with the development (to my abilities) of the T4i ML and will do what I can to write code and/or test and document development of ML for the t6s. Keep up the good work, all you ML contributors 

I've played around with this program called HDSLR Offloader. It works with Photomatix and automates any HDR video clips you have to process. I find the quality is equal to what you get with the scripts and it does it much faster.  The only problem with the installation was you really need Photomatix version 4.0.2, it does the best/fastest job. But getting a license is a bit of a chore. If you buy a license for the new version, then you can talk to their customer service and explain your situation and they will give you a free license for the older version.  Your full frame 6D takes much nicer videos than my 650D. Also for those who hate moire/aliasing, the VAF filter from Mosaic Engineering is worth the money. 

http://www.magiclantern.fm/forum/index.php?action=profile;area=showposts;u=23216

Quote from Harrison

"So I'm new to magic lantern and this will be my first time downloading it to my 70d. If it's an Alpha version does that mean that there are still a lot of issues with the program for my camera and should I wait to download a more complete version. Or is it completely fine? Thanks.
-Canon Lover"

I've been running Alpha versions of Magic Lantern for 2 years on 2 different cameras (7D and 650D). They lock up on occaision, both of them. You just have to remember to take out your battery and put it back in, then it will be fine. I am planning on buying a 70D as soon as the HDR video function is working and I would not hesitate to install magic lantern on it.

My latest discoveries about this. It takes 12 minutes to process 1 minute of footage.

http://www.magiclantern.fm/forum/index.php?topic=13430.msg129867#msg129867

It doesn't really work well at 1080. But works great at 1280x720, 50fps

I have no idea what caused that malfunction. I've been playing with HDR video for over a year and abandoned the scripts in favor of a program that Malcolm Debono wrote. I've reworked it slightly to use an older version of Photomatix and the Exposure Fusion selection. I've recompiled his program and made it available (plus complete installation instructions) here:

http://www.magiclantern.fm/forum/index.php?action=profile;area=showposts;u=23216

It processes much faster than the scripts method and gives equally good results. I've had no weird results like you've shown, not in a year. Email me with any questions [email protected]

Edit:
Here is a program that automates the conversion to an mp4 file.
The exposure fusion method is 1/2 as fast as using the "average" method below, which is
very fast but the exposure fusion method is superior quality. For example using the average
method, a 10 second clip will process in less than a minute.
Just over 2 minutes using exposure fusion. That same clip takes 10
minutes to process with the original Avisynth/Virtualdub/Enfuse scripts.

Right-click this link and "save link as"
http://www.kozenrufu.com/Jameskan/apps/HDSLRoffloader_0.6.2.zip

Edit: I've removed Malcolm's link here and replaced it with my own
version of his program, slightly edited to use "Exposure Fusion" (using H&S Adjust) as the
combining method rather than "Average". Other than that, my directions below are the same.

It's a bit slower than using "Average", but the quality is much better and will need little to no
adjusting in-post.  Here's a short clip I processed today. It's right out of the camera, no post editing:
Filmed with a 650D and Tokina 11-16mm and VAF filter. 1280 x 720, 50fps:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=b9nhaZcc2uY

Unzip everything into a single folder. Forget using enfuse, it doesn't work well with
this program.

Then download and install version 4.0.2 of Photomatix Pro (32 bit)
http://photomatix-pro.en.uptodown.com/old
I've tested all versions and this version works the best and fastest
Edit 12/4/14: You will need to buy a license from Photomatix. You'll have to contact
customer service as the "buy now" from the trial version links to version 5, and the
license for 5 doesn't work with 4.0.2. I told customer service about this so there might
be more options for licensing in the future without contacting them. Let's hope.

Next, open the DSLR Offloader program and select tools, options
Check all 3 check boxes
Select Photomatix   Select framerate 60 and 1280 x 720 (film at 50fps to
speed up processing time.
For extra parameters input -vcodec mpeg4 and use mp4 for extension
Then select "Photomatix options" at the top and browse to find the
PhotomatixCL.exe location (should be C:\Program Files (x86)\PhotomatixPro402\PhotomatixCL.exe)
Select Combine images using "average" (use Exposure Fusion now)
Leave checkboxes unchecked
Select save at bottom

Now move an HDR recorded .mov file into the folder
Then go into the program and select "tools, transcode hdr videos" and find
your file(s). You can process multiple files with this program.

Feel free to contact me if you have any questions about this 

Edit: 1/28/15 I made some adjustments to the Photomatix process, you can look at the video to see whether you want this version. The image below shows what adjustments it makes when processing. In the last version all of these settings were at 0. Enjoy!



Right-click this link and "save link as"
http://www.kozenrufu.com/Jameskan/apps/HDSLRoffloader_0.6.3.zip

delete

I wanted to try video HDR on my 500d.
I have viewed a number of videos on line but they show what must be an old version of ML as they have an HDR option under the video tab.
I  am currently running the nightly build for the 18th of July 2014 and have tried to get dual ISO working with video.
I have set up RAW video under the movie tab. I have selected dual ISO and set 2 ISO speeds.
I have set the switch to movie, but although dual ISO is selected it is grayed out and there is a message saying
Dual ISO only works in RAW for movie. Have I missed something or is there an issue with RAW video and dual ISO.

Thanks

One option would be to sell your 500D and buy a 550D. You should be able to sell yours for at least $300 if it has a low shutter count. I just saw a used 550D with less than 3000 shutter count for $365 (body only) on ebay. Or a 600D with a shutter count of 16k for $380. Both of those will do HDR video.

Update:  Mosaic Engineering had me ship one of my Canon t2i cams to their office for comparison against their own t2i that works with the VAF-TXi filter.

My gut feeling is that a solution will have to come through a software change (ie. Error 20 override/bypass) or some type of fairly drastic hardware change... but I'm hopeful they - or someone here in the forums - can figure out an answer.

Thanks for reading!

I recently ordered a VAF filter from Mosaic (not received yet). This is what they wrote me yesterday regarding the err20 issue. I have the T4i, so I don't think it will be my issue, but for those who bought this who have the t2i and t3i.....

Thanks for your order of the VAF-TXi anti-aliasing filter, pending in our system as of today.  As you know we had some delay in shipping this filter as it had gone out of stock; we now have this filter available once again and are ready to ship your order to you at this point.

Before we ship this filter to you, however, we'd just like to confirm in advance with you regarding an emerging issue that has recently come to our awareness, with the T2i/550D and the T3i/600D - in case you are intending to use the VAF-TXi with one of these cameras.  (So far we do not know of this issue to occur with the T4i/650D or T5i/700D - only with the T2i/550D and the T3i/600D).

Here's the situation currently:  Occasionally, a photographer with a T2i or T3i will report an "Err 20" code when trying to use our VAF-TXi.  (This seems to be restricted to these two specific cameras, and their international counterparts, the 550D and 600D; we have not had it reported in connection with any other camera body.)  However, it's relatively easy to know in advance, whether this will be an issue with any of your cameras; basically this amounts to supporting the a camera's reflex mirror gently with your finger, in the same way that our filter will when installed.  Specifically, here's a quick check you can run, to test if it would happen with your camera:

1) Remove your camera's lens.

2) Put the camera in "movie" mode with the selector dial on top.

3) Turn the camera on; you will receive a message on the LCD screen to the effect that no lens it attached.

4) Press the "Live View" button.  The mirror will raise and the focal plane shutter will open, and you will see a blurry overexposed image of light on the LCD screen.  So far, this is all exactly the normal behavior.

5) Now, pretend to the camera that you've installed our VAF-TXi filter, by gently holding the mirror up with a finger.  Please see here - http://mosaicengineering.com/products/vaf/txi/install.html - for a clear view of how our filter holds the mirror up.

6) Still holding the mirror gently up, turn the camera off, then back on.  Again you will receive a message on the LCD screen to the effect that no lens it attached.

7) Again still holding the mirror up, press the live view button:

8a) The focal plane shutter should click open, and again you should see a blurry overexposed image of light on the LCD screen.  This is the normal behavior that is generally seen, and indicates that the VAF-TXi will work fine with your camera!

8b) On the other hand, some photographers at this stage, have reported that the camera displays an "Err 20" message instead of going into Live View, preventing the recording of video.  (By turning the camera off and removing either your finger or the VAF-TXi, the camera returns to normal.)

Please let us know what happens, when you try this!  At this point, we're working with the Magic Lantern developers to try to find a solution to this problem where it occurs, but unfortunately this is still a work in progress.

Anyway please let us know which of the camera bodies you have, and what you find, and if things look well we'll get the filter out to you as soon as possible.

Thank you any ways for your interest in our filters;

Best,

Max

I picked up a ProAm crane and did some test shots yesterday with the 10-22 sigma i got this week, and I am happy with the results so far, now I need mix em up and see what I have.

Thanks for the thoughtful response. I checked out your vid, I'm going to shoot 24 fps. 60 seems a little too slow for me and I want to keep the workflow tight and short.

How often are you making vids for real estate?

I haven't made any professional videos yet. I'm still at the practice phase. I'm still healing from an 8 level back fusion that apparently takes several years to heal. Maybe by next year I'll start having customers. 

Post an example to youtube when you get a chance !

I like this guy:
https://www.youtube.com/user/DanAchatz1/videos?flow=grid&view=0

He uses a 4 foot jib
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3-qPXfA7ABQ

Also good:
https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCgjlRQjsdNIxqtuB4mGABsA/videos

Thank you for this. Just got a 650d & am strictly using it for hdr video in real estate too.

Take a look at my latest post on HDR video. Using Malcolm's script and Photomatix version 4.0.2 is very fast at processing, so fast I'll probably shoot all interiors using HDR. You will have to do some post processing, especially for sharpness for a few reasons. One is the best setting for shooting HDR with the 650 is the 1280 x 720 because of the 60fps. Then you can slow it down in editing. I usually slow it down to 50% (I use a motorized panhead at slowest speed). But really slow is best for youtube for smoothness. I defocus my lens until there's no moire/noise (thus the post sharpening). For picture style, I just turn down sharpening to 0 and leave the rest at zero.  I found shooting 100/3200 iso gives the most realistic view out the windows. Setting aperture is trickier, what works for me is very dark, but not black and pretty bright, but just where the windows are fully blown out as far as what you see in the LCD. The motorized panhead is definitely the way to go, you can barely tell the difference from a slider when done at very slow speed.

http://www.magiclantern.fm/forum/index.php?topic=11486.msg115618#msg115618

Here's a recent example:
http://youtu.be/JNGqnF2ukR8

Edit 10/12/14
Make sure you use Photomatix Pro 32-bit. I tested version 4.0.2 32 bit against the same version in 64 bit and the 32 bit is much faster without any sacrifice of quality.

Here is a test I did today pitting the fastest version of the scripts method that uses Virtualdub and Avisynth against the HDSLR Offloader/Photomatix method.

Time to process a 10 second clip is 4 minutes, 25 seconds for the scripts method,
47 seconds for the Offloader/Photomatix method. There is a slight loss of quality with the Offloader method, but can mostly be fixed in post. In this example the only thing I did in post was to add 20 sharpness (of 200) to the Offloader version.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=q4psi-xWME0

EDIT 10/27/14: This is the latest and best HDR video process. Much faster than any of the scripts and equal in quality to the scripts results

http://www.magiclantern.fm/forum/index.php?topic=13430.msg129867#msg129867

I was looking for posts on hdr video and put that in the search string and got all posts on hdr, mostly hdr photography and all posts on video. I remembered that to narrow it down you put "" around your string, then the exact phrase only will come up. "hdr video". Saves lots of sorting thru unnecessary threads. For the few who don't already know this.

Did you start a new session in premiere? I've seen this happen in editors before where I've deleted a file, but there were still remnants of it left somehow.

[Version 0.4]

Version 0.4
HDRSLR Offloader now supports transcoding HDR videos while importing 

The following steps can be done automatically:
- Extract the audio track from file (done through ffmpeg - included)
- Extract and sort even and odd frames from HDR videos (also done through ffmpeg)
- Process HDR frames with Enfuse (included) or with Photomatix (user must specify location of PhotomatixCL.exe from Options window)
- Save processed frames back to video (framerate and size can also be customized; done through ffmpeg)

Note: HDR videos are detected through the log file generated by ML, so please enable this option from ML menu before capturing




Download link:
http://malcolmdebono.com/apps/HDSLRoffloader_0.4.zip

I'd like to keep this thread alive as it's turned out to be a good solution for any of you Real Estate video shooters out there who have multiple HDR inside window shots. This program (ver 0.6.1) does the job nicely.  I found the enfuse option quality too poor, but the Photomatix works well. It's about 3 times faster than the interframe script option plus it batches unlimited number of files. Sadly it's not available for the mac, pc only.

Ok, I've found my solution for HDR video. I'm using Malcolm Debono's HDSLR Offloader program and photomatix. Photomatix works inside the Offloader program to merge the frames. It fills all my needs. it's fast (Processed a 5 second clip in 1 min, 20 sec), it takes an unlimited list of .mov HDR clips, and it creates individual output files. Input your list, walk away and just rename the files.  I was using 720p at 60fps so that I could control the speed easier, but I was getting too much moire. I saw that 1920x1088 at 30fps had significantly less moire (haha, could be read as less more), and if you output from the Offloader program at 60fps then it can be slowed down to your liking in your editor (with a tiny bit of stabilization). Photomatix has a free download, they want you to pay, but there's no watermark on the output nor time limit for using the download so you'd be on your own to buy it or not ($100 for the pro version which you need).

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xYKKqBiljY4

edit 5/29/14: This is still the best option for me, but I've discovered the output is not as good as the interframe script, but easily fixed in post by turning the contrast all the way down (-100) and adding +50 for sharpness (of 200 in my editor). Comes out great, I think.

edit 7/5/14: I've changed my mind about 'always' turning the contrast all the way down, in some light it works, others maybe 1/2 contrast, others normal contrast. Depends.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YD-dEYiQ1Kw

edit: 6/4/14: I downloaded an old version of Photomatic (vers 4.0.2 64bit and it processes MUCH faster. A 15 second clip using the laterst version took 3mins 45sec and with vers 4.0.2 the same clip took 1min 45sec !

Hi,
I am trying to use the latest HDR workflow.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VuhVZWaOVOY

If I install as in the README using the included version of avisynth
I get the following error message on running main.cmd (in a command windows
Avisynth Open Failure:
FFVideosource: Can't open '..\RAW.MOV'
(C:\Downloads\HDR-workflow-051\scripts\hdr_split.avs, line 8 (line eight))

I uninstalled Avisynth (and noticed that the directory was named 2.5)

So I tried to look for the 2.5 version but could not find it.

What am I doing wrong?
Thanks a lot for your help.

Do you have a file named raw.mov in the same directory as the main.cmd file?

Batch process HDR video (dual ISO) would be so helpful to me right now.  Currently I'm working on 178 videos... one at a time.

Maybe some of the other guys using HDR video for real estate would be interested too.  @jbggump, @rainboy, @donjames150, @kawasakiguy37

Would a cash reward Be appropriate to offer?


This is what I would like to see the Batch Program do.

• Select Videos
  
• Split Video - With the option of Jpeg or Tiff  (Tiff Script: http://gpwrite.com/magic-lantern-firmware-hdr-video-script-eos-5d/)
• Enfuse
• Delete A and B images
• Leave C Image is separate folders (uniquely named).  I don't use Vdub to save the video.  I import image sequence to AE and go from there.  So someone else can suggest how to automate Vdub export.
• Do the next one.

I found this speed hack here, perhaps this could help too. http://www.magiclantern.fm/forum/index.php?topic=10627.0

Here is some help:

http://movies.online-arts.de/content,16,hdr-gui.htm

It does some of what you (and others) want, but you'll have to get the
interframe scripts working on the mac using wine

you do select the videos (one at a time, up to 6 total)
it does delete A and B frames, leaving C frames in a unique folder
it has an option for writing an avi file, but writes slow (1-1/2 mins for 4 sec clip)
Using the avi option it took 35 minutes to write ten 4 second clips. Half of that
time was the avi writing. I sent him an email about that, I don't see a need for
a 545 mb bitrate, I'm sure he could tweak that part and maybe take off the cap
on the number of files to batch at one time. Maybe make it so you could select
several at once rather than add one at a time. He does say it's a beta program.

Hello everyone! I apologize in advance if this has already been answered, but I couldn't find an answer to this problem.  I am trying to use the HDR video function on my t3i and the issue I'm running into is that the ISO value takes about 4 - 5 seconds before it switches to the next and then keeps that pattern the entire time. Every tutorial I've watched the alternating speed happens at the rate set by the user, but I've tried multiple settings, 24fps, 60fps, 30fps, as well as adjusting the shutter speeds accordingly and the ISO alternation still sticks to 4 - 5 seconds in-between. I'm hoping that there's just a simple step I am missing in the camera. Also please let me know if I'm giving enough info or if I'm just being totally confusing haha.

Also, If anyone has a link to a solid post-processing workflow for mac it'd be much appreciated! Thank you.

Sounds like you're talking about what you see in the LCD? If so, sounds right, it's ok. As to "solid" workflow for mac, I'm on pc, but I've read the best is with Final Cut Pro X using Alex's plugin. If you search "FCPX Alex's plugin" in youtube, there's info there. Also people on this forum have said it was good.

Did you install Avisynth? In Avisynth folder

Hello

im new to magic lantern and magic lantern forum, not sure if this is the correct place to ask question please let me know if im in the wrong place!

try to use magic lantern to shoot  normal video and HDR video with tripod and video head.

question 1/ when i shoot normal video the live viewer keep changing between bright and dark every 2 to 3 sec just like when shooting with HDR video and for sure I had turn off the HDR video function" it didn't effect the video image but really annoying is this normal?  "

question 2/ turn on the camera idling sitting on the table I heard a very little electronic noise from the camera and after 4 to 5 mins of idling the camera got very warm is it normal?

question 3/ with HDR video using the HDR workflow follow instruction install avisynth video name change to raw and click main for virtual dub to work itself, using adobe premiere to combine all the C image virtual dub create but the video is lag and im shooting 1920 with 30fps now sure with the problem was hoping there is an answer.

Thank you

For question 1, it sounds like you turned HDR off in Magic Lantern, right? I always turn my camera off then back on, holding the set button to switch from any HDR function to normal shooting. That should fix that problem.

For 2, since you are using an Alpha version of ML, it's safest to not leave your camera idling when ML is turned on. It's an alpha version and not totally stable yet.

For 3, I don't know, I use the interframe script start to finish.

Sorry if this has been covered but I just have to share this as it may be as important to someone else as it is for me. I mostly loaded ML for the HDR video as I film real estate and those inside shots of the windows are just bright squares of light without HDR. With HDR they are much nicer. So I've been lamenting the slow process time using Vdub and Avisynth (1 minute for 1 second of filmed) and searched everywhere for faster alternatives. Yesterday I stumbled upon a script change on the ML forum:

http://vimeo.com/groups/magiclantern/forum/topic:250386

at the post about 1/3 down

Bart@RedKiteMedia 2 years ago
AOMBK made some improvements on the avisynth split script:

it's replacement code for hdr_split.avs

I film entirely in 720, so the first part isn't necessary, none of it
only change the part of the hdr_split.avs for 720

replace all of the code with the following and it will run twice as fast:

SetMemoryMax(1024)
LoadPlugin(ScriptDir()+"..\Avisynth-plugins\ffms2.dll")
LoadPlugin(ScriptDir()+"..\Avisynth-plugins\RemoveGrainSSE3.dll")
LoadPlugin(ScriptDir()+"..\Avisynth-plugins\mvtools2.dll")
Import(ScriptDir()+"..\Avisynth-plugins\InterFrame.avsi")
Import(ScriptDir()+"..\Avisynth-plugins\FFMS2.avsi")

A = FFVideoSource("..\RAW.MOV")
A = selecteven(A)
A = trim(A, 1, 0)
A = ConvertToRGB(A, matrix="PC.601", interlaced=false)
A = ImageWriter(A, "..\frames\A", type = "jpg")

B = FFVideoSource("..\RAW.MOV")
B = selectodd(B)
B = ConvertToRGB(B, matrix="PC.601", interlaced=false)
B = ImageWriter(B, "..\frames\B", type = "jpg")

return Interleave(A,B)


Edit: process time is less than ONE QUARTER of the time as i also realized that with my motorized panhead I could film at 2x the speed then slow it down to 1/2 in my editor :-)

I bought a 650D last year to learn real estate videography. I was "retired" from my company in 2011 after 23 years, and one of my jobs was filming, so I thought I'd start my own business. Then I was almost killed in a head on crash (their fault) in January of last year, now I'm a bionic man with two long titanium rods in my neck and 13 screws. As soon as it's strong enough (been 17 months now) I will start filming houses, hopingly high-end ones for realtors/owners.  Loved the 650D but realized I also really love photography which is why I bought the 7D. I put ML on the 650D back in March I believe and have had the 7D for about a month (with ML on it, of course).

http://www.kozenrufu.com/Jameskan/IMG_7161a.JPG

Then why are the modes and behavior the same as 1x and 5x mode on other cams? All I see is rumor posts before the camera was released and people speculating it has 3x3 binning but no official or empirical proof that it is.

Then I see this guy:

http://www.canonwatch.com/eos-5d-mark-iii-hacked-anti-aliasing-filter-removed-more-sharpness/


Filter is blurring/darkening the image... hmmm sounds like that would take down moire just like the VAF. Also the moire issues seem related to sensor size and resolution output + how it divides up and then debayers.

just one moire comment on this subject

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vVXns1R8ACc