Canon 5D Mark II / 5D2

[nuke01]

I just found another difference:
This new build magiclantern-Nightly.2014Apr07.5D2212 seems to be slower than 2b804e8cdd3c when recording:

Today I could record with 1728x972@25p on a 128GB 1000x KB CF card for as long as nearly 10mins (before I pressed stop). Now I only get about 30seconds (~1500 frames).
I use the same settings as before, which are:

Did I miss something which I could change to get faster speed? I also did all the other things described in the first post of this topic in the Canon menu. This settings I had before and differ from the guide:I hope this somehow can help you guys with merging the forks.

Hi, it's me again. After I reading in some commits about changes from g3gg0 in mlv_rec I decided today to test it again with magiclantern-Nightly.2014Apr22.5D2212. Same setting as posted above. It seems a little bit faster, 1728x972 can now record up to 1 minute, tested with all 5 buffer methods. 1600x900 records continues (tested with buffer method 0 & 3).

So whatever you did, please keep up the great work and maybe soon we can record again continuously with higher resolutions!

[LucianParaian]

I`m sure it was asked or talked about it before. Sorry I couldn`t find the topic..

Why is the max height in 3x crop mode 1076, instead of 1251 (as I think it should logically be... 3753:3=1251)

I`ve recorded, in 1x mode, video with the max height of 1250 (not 16/9).

Thank you!!

[teetaylor]

Hi There,

I am new to the forum and to Magic Lantern. I am having an issue and I hope someone can help. I have installed ML and believe it is correct. When I am using ML my live view image switches from bright to dark unless I am in Auto ISO. When I film it "flashes" rapidly between light and dark. This is not a subtle flicker of vertical lines or fluorescent light. It is a very extreme flashing. I am sure this is a simple setting that I have overlooked but after hours of going over the user guide I  am stumped. I really want to love ml but I cant shoot in auto ISO. Help.

Thanks

[ted ramasola]

you must have enabled HDR video. turn it off.

[teetaylor]

Ted, you are exactly right. I can't thank you enough. I knew it was something obvious I was missing. I will need to do a bit of function familiarizing. Cheers!

[ted ramasola]

Testing April 24 nightly.

When recording in MLV raw,
GD ON,
the framing/border disappears and will only reappear when recording stops.

Apr 23 did not have this behavior.


I tested clearing the cf and placing new ML folders and its OK now. Erasing the old magic.cfg must have done the trick.

[Doyle4]

Anyone recommend a nightly please? im on A.D's Feb 14th 2014 build still, cheers guys.

[Espen Ørud]

Hi!


I recently startet using ML in my photography because of the great benefits of in camera intervalometer, extended bracketing possibilities and other fetatures that helps my photography end reduces the need of external gadgets.


Im trying to get the camera to shoot with the intervalometer with open mirror but not activating the LCD screen, and have yet not found a way to accomplish this. The reason I want to do this is to save the shutter mechanism while shooting long sequences for timelapses and also to increase battery lifetime as any activation of the LCD steals battery time.

Anyone?


(New here and English is not my first language, so I hope I have posted in the right place and in an understandable way)

[Doyle4]

should be an option somewhere in LV settings to set the LCD to off... cant remember exactly where and i dont have my camera at hand sorry.

[poromaa]

To shoot with mirror up:
load the silent module (this will enable silent pics from live view)
The silent picture settings will be found under camera. Just turn it on, and then use the intervalometer.
(unfortunately the resolution will only be 1880x1250 or 2152x1076 if you zoom in 5x/10x before taking the pic. The latter is to recommend if you don't want aliasing artefacts, but you loose the full frame image since this will only be a crop.)

To powersave:
There is a setting in "Powersave in LiveView"
just set the turn off LCD to 20min (or whatever), and if you do time-lapse with silent pics, the LCD will turn off immediately

This works in the 24th nightly (before that it was a bug with the powersaving).
Hope that helped.

[Doyle4]

@poromaa

Would you recommend installing latest nightly from feb 14th 2014 ad build?

[reddeercity]

The nightly for Feb16th is the one I use for Paid Work. Rock Solid !
http://builds.magiclantern.fm/jenkins/job/5D2.212/206/artifact/platform/5D2.212/magiclantern-v2.3.NEXT.2014Feb16.5D2212.zip

[Doyle4]

cheers! ill give that a shot!

[poromaa]

@Doyle4
ad's build? Where do you find them? I thought it was only unified now... I just download the nightlies (probably tested a dozen since feb)
@reddeercity
About the 16th?. Is it faster? - What is the maximum resolution for continuous recording?

I can't really say anything about the speed of raw-recording (I do MLV w sound for syncing) between the different builds. I just control that it works.
I have successfully recorded continuous in 70MB/s and below on the 23th of April build. That means
1792 x 968   (1.85:1)   continouos with audio of 48.1kh (crop mode)
1856 x 928   (2:1)      continouos with audio of 48.1kh
@24fps
(Sandisk Extreme Pro 64GB 160MB/s 1066x).

If you think I can get higher than that I can try some other build?

I also tested everything with the HDMI out (to my field monitor) without problems.

Had no problem except some power save feature that I reported here (https://bitbucket.org/hudson/magic-lantern/issue/1969/5d2-interval-liveview-powersave#comment-9816912). A1ex was able to fix it and the 24th is working fine.

[reddeercity]

@poromaa 1872x936 2:1 23.976p , 48khz without hdmi & 44.1 audio with hdmi Evf & Recorder 1:1 @68.5MB/s Continuous
(Canon menu SRaw2) Buffer "0" or "1" Hack No preview, GD off, FPS OverRide enable of course.
1792x1008 16x9, 1920x872 2.20:1, 2048x872 2.35:1 23.976p 44.1 audio, Continuous in Crop Mode with buffer @ "0"
On Lexar 1000x 64Gb & 32GB cards

Oct24th build from A.D. Raw no MLV (Fastest Raw build to date) ---> https://bitbucket.org/a_d_/magic-lantern/downloads/af9a60fe144d.zip
1880x1058 & 2048x930 Continuous, no audio hdmi is a little touchy thou .
All A.D. builds can be found here -->  http://www.magiclantern.fm/forum/index.php?topic=5533.msg37819#msg37819

[reddeercity]

Hi all , I did a 3x Crop mode tutorial for 5d2, been getting request and a lot of people are having trouble with some of the setting,
so I hopes this help clear things up. 

[Espen Ørud]

To shoot with mirror up:
load the silent module (this will enable silent pics from live view)
The silent picture settings will be found under camera. Just turn it on, and then use the intervalometer.
(unfortunately the resolution will only be 1880x1250 or 2152x1076 if you zoom in 5x/10x before taking the pic. The latter is to recommend if you don't want aliasing artefacts, but you loose the full frame image since this will only be a crop.)

To powersave:
There is a setting in "Powersave in LiveView"
just set the turn off LCD to 20min (or whatever), and if you do time-lapse with silent pics, the LCD will turn off immediately

This works in the 24th nightly (before that it was a bug with the powersaving).
Hope that helped.

should be an option somewhere in LV settings to set the LCD to off... cant remember exactly where and i dont have my camera at hand sorry.

The silent picture won't help me as I need fullframes for my timelapses to be able to make "fake dollyslides" and other effects. Hopefully the 24th+ nightly will help because the problem now is that the LCD off just have settings like "Turn off after x Seconds" and there seem to be a bug that turns the LCD on again a second after each shot (even if preview is tunred off" and it turns LCD on haf a second before taking the shot as well...

[Doyle4]

@reddeercity

Thanks for linking ad builds, couldnt find them since we have moved here.

Youre x3 crop mode test's, is that using the feb 16th build?

[Espen Ørud]

The silent picture won't help me as I need fullframes for my timelapses to be able to make "fake dollyslides" and other effects. Hopefully the 24th+ nightly will help because the problem now is that the LCD off just have settings like "Turn off after x Seconds" and there seem to be a bug that turns the LCD on again a second after each shot (even if preview is tunred off" and it turns LCD on haf a second before taking the shot as well...

I was testing now tihe the nightly from: 2014-04-25 00:10:08 +0200 and I still get Power on on the LCD for a short time before and after each shot...

[poromaa]

Hum. If not using the silent-picture you can just press the live view button to turn off live view. Don't forget to turn off image preview from canon menu. There you go - full resolution timelapse without LCD turning on. I tested this right now with build 24th April. Works.

Dont forget to turn off live view by just press the lv-button (thats why you still get preview even if preview is off).

[Espen Ørud]

Hum. If not using the silent-picture you can just press the live view button to turn off live view. Don't forget to turn off image preview from canon menu. There you go - full resolution timelapse without LCD turning on. I tested this right now with build 24th April. Works.

Dont forget to turn off live view by just press the lv-button (thats why you still get preview even if preview is off).

Yes, but now you are shooting with the shuttermecanism mechanichly activated for each photo, or..?

I want to shoot sequenses for timelapes without moving the mirror for each shot to save the camera from several thousands of movements in the mirror when shooting many timleapse sequenses per week.

[poromaa]

Ah, thats unfortunately not possible what I know of (yet?). I have seen that question myself and the common answer here is to buy one of these VAF  filters that holds the mirror up. A cheap alternative is to just tape it.

I once asked for a higher resolution silent picture module, and got the answer that I should develop it . Apparently it is possible to take higher resolution silent pics by moving the crop window and so covering the whole sensor. There is no implementation of this yet (I made a feature request) but think the developers rather develop fun stuff than boring easy stuff. To mention is also the delay of (if I remember correctly) 2 sec between every crop image, which will screw up moving objects (clouds, trees etc). However, if the images overlap this could easily be corrected in post. Don't know about longer shutter times... that might not work very well.

Maybe there are other ways, but I'm no ML developer so...

[poromaa]

The nightly for Feb16th is the one I use for Paid Work. Rock Solid !
http://builds.magiclantern.fm/jenkins/job/5D2.212/206/artifact/platform/5D2.212/magiclantern-v2.3.NEXT.2014Feb16.5D2212.zip

I just tested the feb16th against the latest and I don't get much performance difference in MLV-recording w/w.o sound. I just tested one resolution that I know the card can't handle and I get the same amount of frames (within deviation of 2%). The card is a 60MB/s Sandisk which performs very stable in its write-speed.

Testing raw module at max 1856x1044 (the higher resolution is not available to compare against in later builds)

Build 16Feb
Best result (tried different settings etc)
126 frames@1856x1044 (16:9) fps 23.976 (the best out of 10 readings - all between 123-126) - stable

Build 25Apr
Best result (tried different settings etc)
I got one 74 frames - early stop (!) - had global draw on by mistake.
148 frames@1856x1044 (16:9) fps 23.976 (the best out of 10 readings - all between 126-148) not counting early stop

Conclusion: 16th Feb might be more stable, 25th Apr seem faster but gives a bit more unpredictable result.

More: Just tested the MLV + Audio 8khz (for sync) and got stable 126 frames @1856x1044. That is as fast as raw module in 16th feb.

[a1ex]

Maybe there are other ways, but I'm no ML developer so...

For sure, but they require very advanced reverse engineering skills. This one is an unicorn that I know for sure it can be done, but Canon code for sampling the sensor is so complex that it's well beyond my understanding. I'm still researching it, but it can take anywhere between a few days and a few (or maybe more) years, because I'm pretty much clueless about where to start (besides the well-known keywords ADTG, CMOS and ENGIO).

Regarding powersave, it's not the display that eats most of the power, but the sensor in LiveView. And, of course, you need to turn it on in order to take the silent pictures. Sure, it can be optimized, but I doubt the battery savings will be significant for this scenario.

Besides this, powersaving is one of those features that nobody notices when it's completely broken for months (it was not working at all since March 09, and I've fixed it the day before yesterday, when a related a related issue was reported). I could not find the exact issue reported in the tracker, and from this I can only conclude that nobody will miss this feature if I'll remove it.

[poromaa]

Besides this, powersaving is one of those features that nobody notices when it's completely broken for months (it was not working at all since March 09, and I've fixed it the day before yesterday, when a related a related issue was reported). I could not find the exact issue reported in the tracker, and from this I can only conclude that nobody will miss this feature if I'll remove it.

Users feature requests are often only wanted but never used.
Users also tend to think within the box created for them, solving the wrong problems e.g. suggesting some complicated solution when the goal simply is to get as long photo interval as possible with minimal battery drain.

On the other hand, from a user perspective I only tend know what I need when I need it. I like using the silent pic to save the shutter (this might be my first wrong assumption) and being silent. When using it it feels nice to turn LCD off to save battery (maybe not saving so much then?). Going on a trip this summer I prepare for all the features I will use. Thats why I tested it and reported the error (I am NorthFilm).

I guess the interval with live view OFF is saving more battery (even with mirror moving?) - so then it would probably be better with a solution that just kept the mirror up.