Canon 1100D / T3

Started by a1ex, June 14, 2012, 04:50:54 PM

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Fletch

@nanomad, will it be possible with ML to manually change the ISO, shutter speed and aperture on the 1100D in video mode?
At the moment it is not possible to alter them manually, they are more or less chosen automatically.

It would be nice to choose them ourselves.

nanomad

Enable exposure override :)
EOS 1100D | EOS 650 (No, I didn't forget the D) | Ye Olde Canon EF Lenses ('87): 50 f/1.8 - 28 f/2.8 - 70-210 f/4 | EF-S 18-55 f/3.5-5.6 | Metz 36 AF-5

Fletch

Yay!  :D
I haven't installed it yet. My camera is quite new and I'm kinda afraid of bricking it.
Think I will wait for a stable version.

Windoze321

So I saw somewhere you had said there's no MLU for the 1100D.  If I'm correct in my assumptions, Liveview serves as a type of MLU.  If so, is there a way where you could have a feature, maybe on the display button, that would turn off the LCD during liveview?  Most people would find that dumb, but wouldn't that effectively give us MLU without draining the battery so fast? 

Cheers and thanks for all your effort!

Edit: I do see a powersaver that looks like it should work, but it seems to turn off the LCD and sensor when idle, but it doesn't seem to work during intervalometer use.  I've tried the different settings with no luck. Dimming the LCD will probably help quite a bit, but actually shutting it down would be ultimate.
You miss 100% of the shots you don't take. – Wayne Gretzky
Canon Rebel T3/1100D - Canon EF-S 18-55mm f/3.5-5.6 IS II - Canon EF 50mm f/1.8 II - Zhumell Z12 Dobsonian Telescope

thn-d

Yeah, today this topic has become 1 year old. Congratulations!  :D
Canon EOS 1100D   |   Canon EF-S 18-55mm f/3.5-5.6 IS II   |   Canon EF-S 55-250mm f/4,0-5,6 IS II

nanomad

Liveview still flips the mirror when shooting so it's a bit useless
EOS 1100D | EOS 650 (No, I didn't forget the D) | Ye Olde Canon EF Lenses ('87): 50 f/1.8 - 28 f/2.8 - 70-210 f/4 | EF-S 18-55 f/3.5-5.6 | Metz 36 AF-5

Windoze321

Quote from: nanomad on June 15, 2013, 08:28:49 AM
Liveview still flips the mirror when shooting so it's a bit useless

When I set it for time lapse, I can set it so that there's a second or two delay between the end of the last shot and the start of the next.  The mirror is flipping up as soon as the exposure is over.  I hear the tiniest noise when the picture actually starts, so I'm already getting the effect of MLU, but I have to be in Liveview to do it.  I'm personally using it for astrophotography and I have a homemade tracker to keep the stars at pinpoints.  (I can use these sets I create for time lapse and/or for stacking.)  Being able to flip off the LCD in Liveview would allow me to extend the time of my time lapse sessions dramatically.  I shoot high ISO at 50mm with an f/1.8 lens, so that slap at the start of the pics can be hell when photographing the stars in the night sky.
You miss 100% of the shots you don't take. – Wayne Gretzky
Canon Rebel T3/1100D - Canon EF-S 18-55mm f/3.5-5.6 IS II - Canon EF 50mm f/1.8 II - Zhumell Z12 Dobsonian Telescope

Fletch

Quote from: Windoze321 on June 15, 2013, 09:09:49 AM
When I set it for time lapse, I can set it so that there's a second or two delay between the end of the last shot and the start of the next.  The mirror is flipping up as soon as the exposure is over.  I hear the tiniest noise when the picture actually starts, so I'm already getting the effect of MLU, but I have to be in Liveview to do it.  I'm personally using it for astrophotography and I have a homemade tracker to keep the stars at pinpoints.  (I can use these sets I create for time lapse and/or for stacking.)  Being able to flip off the LCD in Liveview would allow me to extend the time of my time lapse sessions dramatically.  I shoot high ISO at 50mm with an f/1.8 lens, so that slap at the start of the pics can be hell when photographing the stars in the night sky.

I'm just starting to experiment with astro as well. I have a 50mm 1.8 but haven't tried it yet. What ISO do you recommend with the 50mm? I am assuming you use the aperture at 1.8? I was using the 18-55 at 18mm on the lowest aperture and a shutter speed of 30 seconds and ISO of 1600 (as recommended in the e-book 'Shooting Stars').
I'm still wondering what the best way is to combat noise. Do you do any stacking?

(Sorry for the diversion in the thread).

Windoze321

Quote from: Fletch on June 15, 2013, 09:32:41 AM
I'm just starting to experiment with astro as well. I have a 50mm 1.8 but haven't tried it yet. What ISO do you recommend with the 50mm? I am assuming you use the aperture at 1.8? I was using the 18-55 at 18mm on the lowest aperture and a shutter speed of 30 seconds and ISO of 1600 (as recommended in the e-book 'Shooting Stars').
I'm still wondering what the best way is to combat noise. Do you do any stacking?

(Sorry for the diversion in the thread).

Magic lantern has wonderful options for keeping your laptop inside where it's dry!  Between time lapse and bulb settings, there's no need for the Canon EOS program with a USB strung between your camera and laptop just waiting for you to bring them both crashing down!

You'll want to stop the f/1.8 down a bit.  Maybe f/2.5ish, give or take.  (Most lenses seem to have better pictures stopped down.)  As for ISO, it all depends on your equipment and your shooting conditions.  I can get away with a lower ISO because of my tracking (Much longer exposures before star trailing).  (Look up Barndoor tracker.)  If you have a lot of light pollution, then high ISO will wash out your pics when doing long exposures.  At 50mm, you're also going to get a lot of star movement on anything over 5-10 seconds.  It's really a game of trial and error.  Consider shooting in a fluorescent white balance, too. 

Yes, I do plenty of stacking.  I use Deepskystacker for alignment stacking and Photoshop for things like startrails.  Here are some examples of what I've done.  Most of these were taken with the Rebel XS.  http://pinterest.com/pin/459437599456103974/  My T3 just got delivered yesterday and I've got almost 7k pics on it already.  Check out my youtube for some of my time lapse videos.  http://www.youtube.com/user/Windoze321

As for noise, there are various ways for combating it.  One is to use a program like BlackFrame NR, but if you're wanting to remove them from 1,000's of pics at once (time lapse), then this guide will help you through Photoshop: http://www.foundphotography.com/2005/11/batch-action-to-remove-hot-pixels/  It's a bit complicated, but it worked wonders for me. 
You miss 100% of the shots you don't take. – Wayne Gretzky
Canon Rebel T3/1100D - Canon EF-S 18-55mm f/3.5-5.6 IS II - Canon EF 50mm f/1.8 II - Zhumell Z12 Dobsonian Telescope

nanomad

- Fixed ML menu not closing when in LV (it used to work but it shouldn't have :o)
- Freed up some memory

Thanks to alex work on the module system, the 1100D can now load them :)
EOS 1100D | EOS 650 (No, I didn't forget the D) | Ye Olde Canon EF Lenses ('87): 50 f/1.8 - 28 f/2.8 - 70-210 f/4 | EF-S 18-55 f/3.5-5.6 | Metz 36 AF-5

Fletch

Thanks. Your pics look great Windoze!
Yeh, I don't have a tracker. Plus it is hard to find clear nights here at the moment (it is Winter here).
I'll be looking to get out and trying to take some more pics when a clear night rolls around.

@nanomad and alex - thanks for all your hard work!
I haven't installed ML yet but I plan to when it is stable :)



Windoze321

Quote from: Fletch on June 15, 2013, 11:02:58 AM
Thanks. Your pics look great Windoze!

Thanks!  The Orion Nebula was taken with my sisters' T3i with her 250mm and my tracker. The ones of the Jupiter and the Moon were taken with the XS while being held up to my telescope.  (Oh how I wish it had tracking!)

I installed ML the day I got my brand new 1100D.  I couldn't resist, lol.

@nanomad - As far as testing goes:  Last night I shot 4 straight hours of time lapse with it without a hitch at 1 pic every 7 seconds with 5 second exposures.  Then today I shot for 2 hours straight at 5 second intervals (regular pics at 1/1000), so I think it's safe to say that that feature is pretty stable.  On the next clear night I intend on using ML with the time lapse AND the bulb feature.  I want a couple hours of 1 minute exposures of the Milky Way, so that should be a pretty good test.  I'll report my results when I have clear skies.
You miss 100% of the shots you don't take. – Wayne Gretzky
Canon Rebel T3/1100D - Canon EF-S 18-55mm f/3.5-5.6 IS II - Canon EF 50mm f/1.8 II - Zhumell Z12 Dobsonian Telescope

Windoze321

I'm not seeing the .zip file on the nightly page.  The last one I see is for the 12th.
You miss 100% of the shots you don't take. – Wayne Gretzky
Canon Rebel T3/1100D - Canon EF-S 18-55mm f/3.5-5.6 IS II - Canon EF 50mm f/1.8 II - Zhumell Z12 Dobsonian Telescope

47Crows

Quote from: Windoze321 on June 15, 2013, 11:39:11 AM
I'm not seeing the .zip file on the nightly page.  The last one I see is for the 12th.

I can confirm this. It has been missing the last time I've checked as well (est. 18 hours ago) and now the 15th build is only a few kB in size (as opposed to the regular ones at around 3 MB) as it's lacking the .zip itself.

i hope you guys didn't take out the README/manual file

nanomad

There's a new build system on the repository. I'll fix nightly builds tomorrow morning
EOS 1100D | EOS 650 (No, I didn't forget the D) | Ye Olde Canon EF Lenses ('87): 50 f/1.8 - 28 f/2.8 - 70-210 f/4 | EF-S 18-55 f/3.5-5.6 | Metz 36 AF-5

Windoze321

Quote from: nanomad on June 16, 2013, 02:26:21 AM
There's a new build system on the repository. I'll fix nightly builds tomorrow morning

Awesome, thank you!
You miss 100% of the shots you don't take. – Wayne Gretzky
Canon Rebel T3/1100D - Canon EF-S 18-55mm f/3.5-5.6 IS II - Canon EF 50mm f/1.8 II - Zhumell Z12 Dobsonian Telescope

Windoze321

Okay!  I changed direction for my time lapse.  Instead of using the intervalometer feature, I used the forced fps in video mode.  Dropped it to .333 fps and forced changes to the ISO, shutter speed and f/n. The LCD cut off wonderfully using the power saver feature.  I have taken a 1 hour and now a 2 hour time lapse.  I don't know how long I can get, yet, I'll keep adding time along the way. 

This is totally awesome because now I can do time lapse without adding 1,000's of shutter actuations to my precious camera! 

Not only does it save my shutter, it save me HOURS of post processing!!  It comes right out of the camera as a .mov file instead of 1,000's of pictures to resize and turn into a movie!

Thank you SO much for this and all of your work!! (That goes for everyone involved, including the testers!)

I have a question.  What happens when the battery dies during video?  Will it save the file 1st, or is all lost? 

To view my results using Magic Lantern, check this out.  It's a pretty great time lapse of a storm coming in.  It gets better and better as it goes!: http://youtu.be/x-tYJTuigJ4

On a side note... I keep seeing people talking about restarting their videos.  Maybe it's because of the dramatically reduced frame rate I'm using, but it's never stopped on me at up to two hours of straight recording!

Cheers!
You miss 100% of the shots you don't take. – Wayne Gretzky
Canon Rebel T3/1100D - Canon EF-S 18-55mm f/3.5-5.6 IS II - Canon EF 50mm f/1.8 II - Zhumell Z12 Dobsonian Telescope

Fletch

Windoze, the video looks great!
I like the idea of saving the shutter from wear and tear - that is one of the reasons I hadn't done any time lapse work on the T3. It is quite new and I didn't want to just treating it like a workhorse.

What is the "f/n" you mention in the settings?

I'm looking forward to installing ML, but too scared just yet  :-\

Windoze321

Quote from: Fletch on June 17, 2013, 02:55:48 AM
What is the "f/n" you mention in the settings?

Aperture or f/stop. I moved it up to f/11(ish) with a shutter speed of 1/240, I think.  Also I set the ISO to 100.

This stuff works great, but you have to be real patient.  When you set the fps to such a low # (.333), it takes awhile for everything to update.  Changing the shutter (electronic) speed takes awhile.  There's lag in the # actually changing and then more lag in it actually changing the liveview image to match.  I don't know if this can be made to go faster or not.  It works fine, though.
You miss 100% of the shots you don't take. – Wayne Gretzky
Canon Rebel T3/1100D - Canon EF-S 18-55mm f/3.5-5.6 IS II - Canon EF 50mm f/1.8 II - Zhumell Z12 Dobsonian Telescope

Fletch

ps, I've been looking over the documentation -

Is it possible to get 60 frames per second filming with the 1100D?
Normally we are limited to 24fps or 30fps in the menu.
I see there is an override in ML, but it mentions that overcranking doesn't work very well.


Windoze321

Quote from: Fletch on June 18, 2013, 06:20:49 AM
Is it possible to get 60 frames per second filming with the 1100D?

The over-ride changes your shooting fps, not your playback fps.  Your camera will play back at either 25 or 30/fps regardless of what you set the over-ride to.  It will save the video file this way, too.   If my brain is functioning correctly, anything above what the actual camera fps is set to would give you a slow motion video when being played back.  (I haven't tried it, but based on my time lapse shooting, it would make sense.)  I'm shooting 1/fps right now.  When played back, it will be 30/fps.  So in 1 minute, I'm shooting 60 frames which will be 2 seconds of video (1/fps*60s = 60 fames/30fps = 2s).  If I were shooting 60/fps, it would give me 3,600 frames in 1 minute or 120 seconds of video (60/fps*60s = 3,600 frames/30fps = 120s).  So now one minute of real time shooting would take 2 minutes to play back, giving you slow motion. 

Someone please correct me if I'm mistaken. 
You miss 100% of the shots you don't take. – Wayne Gretzky
Canon Rebel T3/1100D - Canon EF-S 18-55mm f/3.5-5.6 IS II - Canon EF 50mm f/1.8 II - Zhumell Z12 Dobsonian Telescope

TokraCro

Hi guys
I just got brand new 1100D, and I want sooo mcuh to put ML on it.. but if it dies or whatever happens and I want to send it back , and act dump, like I dont know what happen, will they know what I did and basically, what will happen ? 
Will I get new one or they will know what I did and say its my fault, sorry.. bye.. ?
Canon 6D, Canon T2i, Canon 1100D. 18-55 IS, 18-55 III, Sigma 30mm 1.4 DC HSM EX, Canon 50mm 1.8, Canon 55-250 IS, Minolta MC Rokkor -PF 50mm (reverse for macro)

Windoze321

Quote from: TokraCro on June 18, 2013, 08:11:02 AM
Hi guys
I just got brand new 1100D, and I want sooo mcuh to put ML on it.. but if it dies or whatever happens and I want to send it back , and act dump, like I dont know what happen, will they know what I did and basically, what will happen ? 
Will I get new one or they will know what I did and say its my fault, sorry.. bye.. ?

http://wiki.magiclantern.fm/faq#does_it_void_my_warranty
You miss 100% of the shots you don't take. – Wayne Gretzky
Canon Rebel T3/1100D - Canon EF-S 18-55mm f/3.5-5.6 IS II - Canon EF 50mm f/1.8 II - Zhumell Z12 Dobsonian Telescope

47Crows

Hey, I just got the 18th of June nightly. This is probably on purpose (as stated on the nanomad site), but this time the .fir file is missing. Nice of you to finally put the documentation!

However, each page of documentation generates a crashlog, as such:
[75] menu_redraw_task: NULL PTR (dd88,e1a00000)
pc=  cc7c8d lr=      4b stack=16a570+0x2000
entry=c84f50(0)
e1a00000 e59ff014 e59ff014 e59ff014
e59ff014 e1a00000 e59ff010 e59ff010
[75] menu_redraw_task: NULL PTR (c55c8,e1a00000)
pc=  cc7c8d lr=      4b st

Magic Lantern version : v2.3.NEXT.2013Jun18.1100D105
Mercurial changeset   : 423f465af80b (unified) tip
Built on 2013-06-18 19:49:33 by [email protected].
Free Memory  : 198K + 1933K


and here is the COREDUMP.DAT    .
Also good job on freeing memory, I couldn't believe my eyes when I saw 2+ free MB!

Stay frosty!

Edit: apparently, there is as much free memory as before, but I guess crashing something freed up ~1.5 MB.
2nd edit: upon opening the coredump myself, I managed to see something within the jibberish string about an 105.fir. I am hereby stating that I do not have the .fir on my card, and have not had it for weeks. (should this change anything)

Windoze321

Quote from: 47Crows on June 18, 2013, 11:44:14 PM
Hey, I just got the 18th of June nightly. This is probably on purpose (as stated on the nanomad site), but this time the .fir file is missing. Nice of you to finally put the documentation!

In that documentation are install notes.  In the install notes it says:

There are two ways of running user code on Canon DSLR cameras:
1. Using the update process with a .fir file, which must be digitally signed.
2. Using the bootdisk process: the autoexec.bin file is loaded and executed. This file
does not have to be signed, but the bootdisk flag must be enabled in the camera.

If what I've read before is correct, then as long as you've already gotten it to work with a .fir file, then the flag has been set inside the camera and it should be able to execute the .bin file.  If you haven't gotten it to work before, then I would assume you would need to find the correct .fir file first.  (You can find one in the archives.)
You miss 100% of the shots you don't take. – Wayne Gretzky
Canon Rebel T3/1100D - Canon EF-S 18-55mm f/3.5-5.6 IS II - Canon EF 50mm f/1.8 II - Zhumell Z12 Dobsonian Telescope