Canon 1100D / T3

[Fletch]

nanomad, I downloaded the new build (2.3)
Not sure if I will risk installing it yet (I have never installed ML), but if I do, what version of firmware is required for the 1100D?

I looked on my camera, and I have 1.0.5 installed at the moment.

[Fletch]

In that documentation are install notes.  In the install notes it says:

There are two ways of running user code on Canon DSLR cameras:
1. Using the update process with a .fir file, which must be digitally signed.
2. Using the bootdisk process: the autoexec.bin file is loaded and executed. This file
does not have to be signed, but the bootdisk flag must be enabled in the camera.

If what I've read before is correct, then as long as you've already gotten it to work with a .fir file, then the flag has been set inside the camera and it should be able to execute the .bin file.  If you haven't gotten it to work before, then I would assume you would need to find the correct .fir file first.  (You can find one in the archives.)

So you definitely need a .fir file to run ML?
It won't just install via the autoexec.bin file?

[Joseriul]

Can anyone help me?
Im trying to use Focus Ramping on my 1100D with the 2013Jun18 Build
First, i set on manual focus to infinite, then move it to AF
Next open Magic Lantern menu, and go to shoot, and click on intervalometer, and i tried choosing -1, -25, +1, +25 on theManual Focus Ramp opcion, then i click Q to exit from the submenu, click on the LiveView button, and it starts to take photos, but the focus dont move.
Im doing something wrong?

[47Crows]

Found some sort of a bug: while using FPS override, it is next to impossible to enter the ML menu from LiveView (it takes a lot more del key pushes than before the 18th of June nightly; and yes, it was tricky to enter the ML menu before because of this, but now it's rather impossible).

Also, in Movie Mode, using FPS override, if you open the Canon menu and close it, the screen will stay turned off (definitely off, not on and just black). Another scenario with FPS override is that if the screen turns off (at least while recording) (by adjusting the powersave settings from ML), there are many chances the camera will freeze upon trying to turn on the screen immediately (the screen stays off, the mirror stays up even after turning off the camera from the switch - all comes back to normal once you take the battery and put it back in).

If you do not try to do mess with anything, a FPS overridden movie is saved and nothing bad happens.

Random crashlog and COREDUMP.DAT while setting the FPS override.

Code Select Expand

[75] menu_redraw_task: NULL PTR (fe28,e1a00000)
pc=  cc7c8d lr=      4b stack=16a570+0x2000
entry=c84f50(0)
e1a00000 e59ff014 e59ff014 e59ff014
e59ff014 e1a00000 e59ff010 e59ff010


Magic Lantern version : v2.3.NEXT.2013Jun18.1100D105
Mercurial changeset   : 423f465af80b (unified) tip
Built on 2013-06-18 19:49:33 by [email protected].
Free Memory  : 240K + 1144K


There are 3 other crashlogs on the card, all from the same experimentation.
Note: the camera did not, at any point, report a crash or mention the crashlogs (as it did yesterday when reading the documentation in-camera).

[nanomad]

Uhm, the thing is...we use timers to check long/short presses but FPS override screws it (the check!), hence you cannot open ML menu. A quick suggestion is go out of LV mode which in turn should turn FPS override off...sucks...

[a1ex]

Huh?! FPS override does not affect ML's internal clock at all...

[nanomad]

No what I meant is that it seems to me that with FPS override GUI events are being processed somewhat slower, which means a longer time between a press->unpress transition -> no shortpress detected -> no ML Menu

[a1ex]

Nope, they should be faster because the CPU is idle.

And the error message shows a bug in ML this time, but I can't reproduce it.

[nanomad]

Uhm, then i have to dig deeper

[47Crows]

Uhm, the thing is...we use timers to check long/short presses but FPS override screws it (the check!), hence you cannot open ML menu. A quick suggestion is go out of LV mode which in turn should turn FPS override off...sucks...

Thanks for the suggestion, that's how I got out of it. I didn't panic, because worst-case scenario I would just have to replace the config file with a backup I do each time I get a nightly.

Also, I thought how the del button works, so I tried short, repeated pulses to sync with the frames (in case it can actually detect like a 0ms pulse), long pushes, nothing worked. Thanks for explaining the principle so that I won't mash the buttons off trying to fool the camera.
Oh, and exiting the ML menu by pressing del still doesn't work.

Suggestion: can you guys implement a P mode for Movie? (as in, I get to choose the ISO and the camera gets to choose Tv and Av) I love controlling the ISO, but that also means I have to adjust other settings as well, which is sometimes quite time-consuming. Thanks!

[Windoze321]

So you definitely need a .fir file to run ML?
It won't just install via the autoexec.bin file?

Well, you need to have had a .fir at some point.  After that, I think you can just use the .bin.

Keep in mind that I'm new here, too.  If we could get an admins input here, that would be reassuring.

I think that the .bin replaces the .fir, but you have to have run the .fir at least one time in the past without reflashing your firmware back to OEM inbetween.

[Windoze321]

nanomad, I downloaded the new build (2.3)
Not sure if I will risk installing it yet (I have never installed ML), but if I do, what version of firmware is required for the 1100D?

I looked on my camera, and I have 1.0.5 installed at the moment.

You have the correct firmware.  Look in the archives section for the June 12th release.  That's the one I'm using right now and it seems to work fine.  I haven't upgraded to the latest, yet.  Partially because I'm not positive that I should erase the whole card including the .bin and replace it with everything from the latest release.  I think that is correct.  I'll test it out by adding the new release to a separate SD card, I just haven't gotten around to it.  There's a storm brewing as we speak    Literally 

[47Crows]

Well, you need to have had a .fir at some point.  After that, I think you can just use the .bin.

Keep in mind that I'm new here, too.  If we could get an admins input here, that would be reassuring.

I think that the .bin replaces the .fir, but you have to have run the .fir at least one time in the past without reflashing your firmware back to OEM inbetween.

Precisely! The .fir tells the firmware upgrade system on the camera to look for the .bin file on the SD every time it boots up (if it's not there, i.e. another SD card, it just carries on with its normal Canon firmware, but it does the check every time). Holding down the SET button (it has to be at its default setting, so no DoF preview custom function setting, guys) while powering up the camera will bypass the ML boot-up sequence (the bootflag is still enabled, mind you) just that one time you're booting up.

Addendum: looks like ^_somebody enjoys formatting their text as well.

[Fletch]

All sounds a bit too complicated for me at the moment.

Maybe I'll just wait for a stable release that takes you through the steps.

[Windoze321]

All sounds a bit too complicated for me at the moment.

Maybe I'll just wait for a stable release that takes you through the steps.

If you want to do it easily, just go into the archives and get the one from the 12th.  Unzip it and put everything you see onto your SD card (not in any folders).  Then put it in your camera and turn it on.  Go to your firmware update (Might have to be in Manual mode to see that option in your camera menu) and update it.  It will tell you it worked and to restart your camera.

Edit:  Once installed, tap the Av button to bring up the ML menu.  Then hit your Menu button to bring up the Grid menu.  (I like this way best, but you don't have to do that.)  Highlight the feature you want to check out and hit your Set button to activate or the Q button to adjust the settings of the highlighted feature.

2nd Edit:  You only have to do the 1st paragraph one time.  After that, you're good to go unless you erase it off of your SD card.

[Windoze321]

As for ease of use...  I've had my camera for 6 days now.  Tomorrow will be a week.  I've never used Magic Lantern before.  It takes a bit to get the feel of it, but just work on one thing at a time.  For me it was time lapse through the Video (FPSOverride) setting (along with exposure override), and when you drop the fps down as low as I do, then it lags pretty bad when changing the shutter speed.  I wasn't sure it was working and it was a bit frustrating.  Once I figured out I had to just be patient and wait for the changes to the readout of the shutter speed and wait a bit more for the changes to show up on the LCD, I was good to go.  As for everything else I've tried, the changes are pretty instant.  Hoping for some lightning so I can check out the Motion Detect feature!  That should be fun!!   

[Fletch]

And if you put a new, blank card in, the camera just won't use ML at all right?

[Windoze321]

And if you put a new, blank card in, the camera just won't use ML at all right?

Correct.  The bootflag will still be set to look for software, but upon finding none, it just load normally.  That's the only (and extremely tiny) change that occurs to your actual firmware when ML is installed the 1st tie.)  I believe that can be undone by reflashing your camera with the OEM firmware.

You can also just hold the 'Set' button on your camera when turning it on and it will bypass ML as well.

[TokraCro]

If you want to do it easily, just go into the archives and get the one from the 12th.  Unzip it and put everything you see onto your SD card (not in any folders).  Then put it in your camera and turn it on.  Go to your firmware update (Might have to be in Manual mode to see that option in your camera menu) and update it.  It will tell you it worked and to restart your camera.

Edit:  Once installed, tap the Av button to bring up the ML menu.  Then hit your Menu button to bring up the Grid menu.  (I like this way best, but you don't have to do that.)  Highlight the feature you want to check out and hit your Set button to activate or the Q button to adjust the settings of the highlighted feature.

2nd Edit:  You only have to do the 1st paragraph one time.  After that, you're good to go unless you erase it off of your SD card.

So, that is the only thing I have to do to try it ? since I am noob here and just been reading, thats the one thing I have to do to make it work ? I am only interested in Intervalometer atm and thats the only feature I would explore atm
What about bugs and/or when I find some ? is there something I have to do then or what ? how does that part works ? 

[Windoze321]

So, that is the only thing I have to do to try it ? since I am noob here and just been reading, thats the one thing I have to do to make it work ? I am only interested in Intervalometer atm and thats the only feature I would explore atm
What about bugs and/or when I find some ? is there something I have to do then or what ? how does that part works ?

You just set up your picture for the exposure/aperture/ISO like you would normally do and then hit the Av button to open the LR menu.  Then hit the menu button to bring up the grid style.  Highlight Interval and hit the Q button.  Adjust the time between pics and the delay before the 1st pic. After that I 1/2 press the shutter to start it.  If you're looking to do time lapse without the shutter count rising, then do it the way I described by using Movie Mode on your camera and setting the FPSOverride and the Exposure Override.  No need for the Intervalometer using that method.  Make sure to use the power saving settings to cut off the LCD during recording to save on your battery.

Post bug reports right here.  If something goes wrong, they say to turn off the camera and take out the battery for a minute.

I'm about to post a bug report on the Intervalometer.  Nothing that will threaten the camera, but something that needs to be addressed.

[Windoze321]

Bug Report - Intervalometer - I was shooting some star trail pictures and ran into the same problem twice.  I set it up on my camera to take 29 second exposures and set the intervalometer to take a picture every 30 seconds.  (I have a fast Class 10 card with UHS Speed Class 1.)  The first set took exactly 100 pictures perfectly.  When I went to check it, the red light was flashing.  I lit up the display it was counting down and was at 28+ minutes.  The 2nd set went for 130 pictures.  I went outside at the 50 minute mark to see if it was going to stop at 100 again, but it didn't.  When I went out to check again later, the light was flashing again.  This time it was counting down and at 42+ minutes. 

This happened using the release from June 19th.  This did not happen using the one from June 13th, but the setup was different.  Using the one from June 13th, the setup was a 5 second exposure with the intervalometer set at 6 seconds.  I took well over 1,000 pics without an issue. 

So, I don't know if the problem cropped up between releases or if it happened because of the longer exposure time of the last attempt.

Cheers and thank you for all your hard work!

[nanomad]

Compare the two releases under the same settings then

[Windoze321]

Compare the two releases under the same settings then

Okay, but it's morning time here, now.  It will have to wait until tonight.  (Not gonna waste 100+ long exposure shutter actuations on the daytime  )

[Windoze321]

The 130 pictures that it did take were great, though!  http://pinterest.com/pin/459437599456549748/

[a1ex]

You can enable a dummy shooting mode (snap simulation) and just let the camera blink and beep. It should be enough to reproduce the bug - of course, if it's not caused by some memory overflow when taking a picture.

There were some changes to timing backend, so it might be related. If the problem happens after exactly X hours/minutes/whatever after powering on the camera, I know where to look.