Search results for: mirror

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#1
Share Your Videos / Objects in the mirror - Video art
September 09, 2012, 11:49:05 AM by Jolly Roger
Hi to all!

This is my first post, and here is my last video filmed with Magic Lantern:


Hope you enjoy it.

#2
thanks...
I think i will remove it the "Proper" way as doing so i will be able to put it all back "If" i ever wanted to .
atleast canon software dont have a mirror check so completely removing it shuld pose no isues.

#3
Just tape the mirror to the top of the housing.
Almost free and it doesn't need software updates ;)

#4
If the mirror remains up after a crash, normally it is brought back down by the MPU (before loading the main firmware). Same for lens aperture - even if the main CPU is stuck, e.g. in the blinking test loop, the MPU is still running and will open the aperture. Since these don't happen, it may indicate a power failure.

The small battery only keeps the clock, no point in removing it.

Do you see any LED blinks or any activity in viewfinder? Tried another battery?

#5
Quote from: kitor on September 01, 2014, 07:04:39 PM
Maybe not to increase shutter count and remove vibrations?
the shutter still actuates and shutter count increases even if the mirror is locked up

Quote from: kitor on September 01, 2014, 07:04:39 PM
remove vibrations?
is it really noticeable? perhaps you just need a better tripod

#6
Feature Requests / Re: mirror lockup - not vibration free
September 08, 2014, 07:44:08 AM by a1ex
I know, but intercepting the full shutter press is beyond my level of understanding Canon code. With the MLU trick, once the mirror went up, you can no longer enter LiveView without resetting the mirror status.

For autofocus, a short half-shutter press (less than 0.5 s) will not trigger LiveView.

For motion detection, a large threshold will almost cancel it (unless the camera is shaking really hard), so it should be fine.
Or you can set the lowest threshold, which means the motion detection will never trigger, then you can fully press the shutter to take the picture. So, you would have short half-shutter for AF, long half-shutter for going into LiveView, and full press for taking the picture.

#7
General Chat / Re: Flash Mirror on 600D
April 01, 2015, 09:03:52 AM by edilson
Hi, Rob!

Well, I have this flash mirror as well, but I hadn't any problem with the pop-up flash on my 500D

I'm gonna show you a video that I've made last year. It's in portuguese but I skipped to 50 seconds in the link:
https://youtu.be/98TnnavWcnM?t=50

The 500D it's not with me but will be in 15 days.

Things that you can try:
- Test only your pop-up flash
- Going to 'external flash optimization' and see if you can access the menu
- Post here pictures of your gear (Camera, Hot Shoe and Flash Mirror)

Until next time!

#8
That doesnt work. it gives an error if you pin the mirror with something.
and I dont have a way to buy an SD card reader right now.
This camera is not the 5D its the EOS 500D/rebel T1i

#9
Just discovered it works fine if i set the exposure length to 1 second or longer. I'm just dumb and was testing it at 0.5 seconds because i was impatient
seems to work fine if I do a long enough exposure it doesnt struggle anymore and the 0.5 second delay works
i can finally get clear sharp photos of the stars without the mirror causing vibrations!

#10
Since you're using an arduino already - would it work for you to have it trigger the lamp on/off per frame?  If you do that, you should be able to use Motion Detect.  The change in brightness will trigger it.  I'm not sure if you can combine FRSP and Motion Detect, but it's worth a test, if so you'll avoid mirror and shutter usage.

#11
Feature Requests / Re: [IMPOSSIBLE] Mirror ALWAY up
October 09, 2013, 03:50:36 PM by TLSA
Hey - thanks for your reply, I was thinking since the mirror can go up before the shutter opens, that it's possible to do that with software. I thought maybe one can just have software that tells the mirror not to come down until you press a button again. But that is me, what do I know about writing software. Was just wondering if it is possible.

Joe

#12
General Help Q&A / Re: Mirror wear
January 08, 2013, 04:01:11 AM by meeok
Quote from: 1% on January 07, 2013, 06:45:56 PM
what camera? i don't think you can shoot jpeg untethered without moving shutter/mirror. the jpegs are small anyways. better off using the 4.22. you can convert them to whatever you need. with movie sizes they are ~hd. shooting a movie for timelapse isn't bad either.
Untethered? Are you saying there is a way to do this tethered?

#13
You can use mirror lock up and intervalometer together.
But you need to set the interval time twice as fast as you normally (without mirror lock up) would do.
Because with mirror lock up it takes one photo per 2 intervals, cause one shot is used to move the mirror up and the next shot takes the actual photo.

Don't know if it's technically possible to move the shutter multiple times without moving the mirror.
I've read somewhere that in some canon DSLR's both are controlled with the same electro motor.
In case of one motor it needs to set the mirror back before it can actually rewind/use the shutter.


#14
Then the VAF filter might be the right way to go.
Or a mirror-less camera.
not what you want to hear of course but sometimes special shooting conditions do require special gear.

http://store.mosaicengineering.com/VAF-TXi-Moire-Aliasing-Filter_p_14.html

http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/883304-REG/Canon_6609b033_EOS_M_Digital_Camera_with.html

Pretty much the only 2 ways not to have mirror sound and use ML

#15
Quote from: Audionut on October 03, 2013, 08:35:00 AM
If you think the mirror is unnecessary, the flash probably is too.  *shrugs shoulders*

Exactly.

No need for a flash on a video camera.

#16
Quote from: painya on October 03, 2013, 04:41:49 AM
Would Mirror lock up work? http://www.markshelley.co.uk/Astronomy/Projects/Mirrorless/canon550mirrorless.html This is a pretty big step I'm sure you know that. If you have 4,000$ floating around you might consider buying an adapter, but that doesn't seem like as viable of an option as removing your mirror.
great tutorial, got to do some measures and ready to remove it. Thanks to all

#17
If you think the mirror is unnecessary, the flash probably is too.  *shrugs shoulders*

#18
Quote from: ItsMeLenny on October 03, 2013, 07:25:10 AM
Look at the thumb print left on that mirror! Nasty!!

If one is going to modify a 550D to have no mirror, they should go all the way and insert an extra microphone (the inbuilt mic is actually able to take a stereo input).

Then remove the flash along with the capacitor used to charge it.
What would be the purpose of removing the flash?

#19
Look at the thumb print left on that mirror! Nasty!!

If one is going to modify a 550D to have no mirror, they should go all the way and insert an extra microphone (the inbuilt mic is actually able to take a stereo input).

Then remove the flash along with the capacitor used to charge it.

#20
You can still fix the mirror up without any software (just discussed here). I used Π-shaped piece of black velvet textured cardboard for that. So you can use USB for remote control and download CR2 files while shooting.

#21
Hello,
Thank you for answering! I'm using the 600D(=T3i).

There are two differtent opinnions about the shutter count, but there's also another thing, why I like to have this feature in the future:
I like filming animals in wildlife and I think, when I open the mirror, they will run away. When I open the mirror a lot of time before I start filming, the sensor will overheat.

Thomas131

#22
Would Mirror lock up work? http://www.markshelley.co.uk/Astronomy/Projects/Mirrorless/canon550mirrorless.html This is a pretty big step I'm sure you know that. If you have 4,000$ floating around you might consider buying an adapter, but that doesn't seem like as viable of an option as removing your mirror.

#23
Yes I understand you have a zacuto z finder .
Ok i'll try and clear things up , first as I posted the 5d2 does not have the option to mirror the display 5d3 is the only eos camera that can.
That being said you have a Ninja2 hdmi recorder and as you know when plugged in you loose the LCD display from the camera .
So the question is how would you use the z finder with the ninja 2 & 5d2 you couldn't ! will not at the same time .
My solution ,  being I have a 5D Mark ii also and a atomos ninja (first version) + Zacuto Z finder Pro3x.


My Run & Gun Set up , 5D Mark ii + Zacuto Z finder Pro 3x

I use to focus with z finder then plug in the hdmi then record but that was a big pain . so my work around was to buy
a Zacuto EVF Snap (lucky for me my video gear rental house had a demo on sale) which has pass though hdmi that goes to
the ninja recorder for backup etc... .


Zacuto EVF Snap

Photo of my rig in studio configuration
This is not a very cheap work around but it was the best solution that's rock solid .


5D Mark2 Studio Rig
by RedDeerCityTV, on Flickr

As you can see the Z finder snap to the front of the EVF for focusing .

The only other way with the ninja 2 (because of the hdmi pass though) is to connect the ninja first then pass though to a HDMI Monitor but unless it's
an Zacuto Evf snap or flip you still can't use the Z finder . At that point unless you need a director's monitor then just use the ninja for focusing etc... .

#24
I did try it without interval timer first. and it didnt work or do anything. i tried changing exposure length and many various settings
Theres no instructions i could find anywhere for using silent mode with full resolution option
It just doesnt do anything when i press the shutter button half way or fully. or hold it down half way or hold it down fully.
it always flips the mirror and shutter and takes a normal photo or does nothing

#25
Would it be possible to lock the mirror up between exposures when shooting HDR still images?

This would reduce wear and tear on the camera, possibly increase the battery life a little and reduce camera vibration and movement between exposures.

#26
Doesn't answer your Q but you might be able to shed some on mine. I will be using a basic shoot move shoot controller but wondering how I sync it with Bulb ramping.
I have been thinking that if the initial stop delay could be replaced by a simple signal from the camera.  This would just leave the move timer acting. What I was thinking is whilst ever the camera is outputting an LCD video signal the motor can move (withing its time set point and stop). As soon as the screen/mirror locks up the motor stops. Resets and then video comes on and the motor starts.
This video out signal idea cam as a result of test an external monitor today.

#27
Quote from: francescosbg on July 31, 2012, 01:07:22 PM
It works for me if I change in Manual Mode to "bulb" and set intervalometer to "on, 2s" and the bulb timer also in ML to 30 sec.......maybe you ad mirror lockup and timer, hope it answered your question ! greets from Austria, Franz :D

Hi, Many thanks from me in Rhodes GREECE 8)
Russ

#28
hi guys, i just want to ask, my eos 60d now stuck...
overall until today i use magic lantern, was good.
but tonight, i try to invalometer on, i testing on 30", Manual mode,
i want to stop it, but dont stop, so i turn off the power..
now my camera dont want to shoot, if i shoot, mirror was lockup, bout 20 secs. and dont take a picture.. :(
but my camera can take a picture use live view or greenbox(auto), and mirror was not locked up till 20secs..

i'm very sad,, about my problem.. i just shock, so i try to update canon eos 60d firmware to 1.1.1,
but still same the problem :(

anyone can help me? pleasee.. :'(

thank you,
ingrid.


======
SOLVED.
after i update canon eos 60d firmware to 1.1.1, i unplug the battery out bout 10 secs, but still same.
so i clear all camera setting *again*, testing with live view shoot 3-5times,
and i unplug the battery about 10min, now back to normal... :)

#29
I have some experience with a dead camera.
Last year i disassembled my 50D and ripped the button battery wires.
So, i tried to fit the black one into the connector once again and i thought it was ok like that.
After powering the camera up i could do everything within like 5 minutes and then the camera would suddenly lose power. Mirror would not come down and you could do nothing.
Turns out the wire wasn't fitted properly so the circuitof the time and date button wasn't closed.
The camera has some sort of protection and if this happens you should take both batteries out and leave the camera to discharge for something like a few hours.
Hope this is of help.

#30
I have had a previous issue with bracketing on my 60D if "mirror lockup" was activated in ML. 

Also, try turning off live view before taking the brackets.  I find that sometimes with LV on, it doubles up on the first couple of exposures.

#31
I think the best way to deal with this option is to choose f/5.6 for most of the time, and keep your camera in AV or Manual mode setting (in manual mode, you could select auto iso and still tell the camera to keep a example 1/100 shutter and f/5.6 aperture. simple!)

I personally shoot a lot using TV mode (for mirror lenses and other longer lenses and when I want to make sure that my shutter is fast enough) or I choose AV mode (for landscape, every-day-situation snapshots, etc.) and at times M mode for those times when I have time to play around and want to have a bit more control.

All those stuff stays the same whether I am using Magic Lantern or not.




#32
General Help Q&A / Re: Rebel T2i HDR w/MLU?
October 17, 2012, 01:12:23 AM by staggerwing17
Thanks for all the help! Man the auto feature on the HDR is just fantastic. Maybe if the mirror cycles enough it will eventually wear out - then I would be forced into buying a new camera. ;)

#33
Idea: http://www.stockholmviews.com/mup/mirror-up.html ("This is especially obvious at shutter speed 1/80s to  1/15s.")
Code: https://bitbucket.org/hudson/magic-lantern/changeset/866be16e840a
Try in tomorrow's nightly build.

Will it work? Worth polishing it?

#34
General Chat / Re: Limiting factor in burst mode
December 23, 2012, 06:18:06 PM by Alia5
As far as i know, we cant just lock up the Mirror and take Pictures only moving the shutter, also we cant get pcitures leaving the shutter open, wich is another limiting factor.

It is possible to read LiveView-buffer tough. Wich is the SilentPic-funktion of ML.
Don't know how the Framerate of this is...

If like... 1080p oder 720p is enough in resolution, you could do a Video and cut out single frames in post ;)

#35
Hello Team,
I recently started using magic lantern and the first shoot was to create a timlapse video, the output was awesome and it worked as expected.
I was just wondering that the intervalometer doesnot work when I use the mirror lock function. Well what I mean by that is if I use mirror lockup function, it stops flicking...
One thing that came to my mind is that why the mirror has to fire everytime its taking a shot, why cannot we just lockup the mirror and keep taking shots via sensor, I am not sure the mechanical movement of the mirror is required everytime...
It will do two things, increase the shutter life by stopping the unnecessary firing and second is that the battery utilization will also reduced...further, it can minimize the motion blur caused by the mirror.
Help me if that sounds good or ridiculous to you!  ;)

Cheers and keep rocking magic lantern team!

#36
The VAF-TXi does not help with 720p footage, which is a shame, because the 720p aliasing is much worse than the 1080p aliasing.

I got a VAF-TXi for my Rebel T2i/550d and it causes err 20 every time I try to use it.
Err 20 usually indicates a problem with the mirror mechanism, and this filter does hold up the mirror, but most people are apparently not having this problem.

I also discovered that old, adapted camera lenses with no electronics in them don't cause the error, but as soon as the camera detects a lens
with an electronic contact on it, it throws the error.

I talked to Mosaic Engineering about it and they said that most T2i users are using it with no problems, but some have this same problem for no apparent reason and they're trying to figure out why.

I found one or two other people on this forum who are having the same problem.  Here is a link to a discussion I replied to with my observations:
http://www.magiclantern.fm/forum/index.php?topic=7265.new#new

#37
Hi,

i like lime lapse, but he's the death of the mirror.

cheers

starbase64

#38
General Help Q&A / Mirror wear
January 07, 2013, 06:32:16 PM by canaldin
Hello,

I always wandered why there is no more the possibility to make time lapse with regular jpeg images as shot by the camera without moving the mirror. I may be wrong but I remember doing hdr timelapse with no mirror movement with regular jpegs, this can significantly reduce the mirror mechanisms wear. I looked into the silent mode but the whole workflow and limitations made me feel kinda crippled in what I was doing, file rename, lo-res, lcd always up and so on. What do you think?

#39
Hey all, thanks for a great product and a very helpful forum! I tried searching but couldn't find an answer to this: is it possible to enable mirrored/reverse LiveView on an non-flip-out LCD camera? I have a Canon 500D and I use a flipbac device to view the screen. It's a mirror that attaches to the bottom of the lcd so I can look down while shooting and see the display, since my camera doesn't have a flip-out LCD (my ghetto cheap alternative). Is there any way to enable the display options to reverse the image so it appears normal in the reflection? I saw this option is coded into the ML for other cameras, is there a way to activate it in mine? I have the option to enable Upside-Down mode but that's not exactly what I need.

#40
General Help Q&A / Re: Compatibility with DSLR Remote Pro
February 04, 2013, 06:48:12 AM by scrax
wasn't bricked if a battery pull solved it.
On 400D sometimes my camera get stuck using flash with low battery, mirror stay up and a battery pull solve that. But I still use flash and batteries till that happens  ;D

I don't know since no OTG on my phone, maybe you could ask the dev of the app to test it first, if he has a ML supported camera.
But have already tried ML controller already? It's made with ML support and can so control some ML features too.

#41
Hello everyone,

I've been following the CHDK and Magic Lantern development for some time, and I must say, what you guys did with the 550D (T2i) is amazing.... so amazing in fact that it might be the perfect solution for a project I am working on. 

I need to shoot anywhere between 5,000 and 100,000 images per "cycle", which is something I usually do with framegrabbers.  This would obviously kill any DSLR in less than a day. 

My need is to shoot at various exposures (HDR) with external triggerting without killing the camera. 

So essentially, I would like to use HDR bracketing, LCD sensor, mirror lock up,  AND electronic shutter altogether.

I've managed to get the HDR bracketing triggered with the LCD Sensor (love it!), so I can put some electronics there to automate the acquisition, I tried the silent picture and mirror lock up, but I can't seem to find the way to take pictures without triggering any mechanics (maybe its the liveview? automatic setting in HDR?). 

The setup would be static (no need to refocus or do anything else other than taking pictures)  Lighting could vary but be compensated by various EV stops in the HDR bracketing and fixed in post.

Also I was reading on the main page that the silent mode is limited to 2 megapixels, but in the menus I see more resolution when doing 2x2, 5x5, etc.. is it a lack of update in the features list or am I missing something?

Thanks all!


#42
Check out the Handheld Mirror Lock up feature. You can configure the time delay.

#43
General Help Q&A / Re: exposure level indicator
February 28, 2013, 04:26:55 PM by 1%
In movie mode when LV is opened the exposure meter measures where exactly, and how? At least with ML spot meter you know what you're measuring. Through the mirror its accurate and nice .... but in LV its kinda what you see what you get.

Maybe buy a camera with the top screen if still attached to it? I see it up there on 6D.

#44
It's called Mirror lockup. Turn it off under C.Fns. It is for reducing vibrations for long exposures, macros, etc.

#45
Hi everyone! I'm new on this forum.
I use a 600D and I wanna try this silent pic method for timelapse videos to save shutter and mirror mechanism. My question is that does this way of taking pictures wear the sensor? I mean during silent picture mode the sensor is working all the time, and a timelapse can last for long hours. I can solve battery drainage but I'm afraid of sensor wear or overheat or else. 

Thanks for Answer, Tom

#46
How about features to help conserve actuations and power drawn by liveview (i.e. backlight) between shots?

Imagining a full day of shooting video, I'd love to be able to lock the mirror whenever the camera is on, but with my control over whether liveview is drawing power. This way I can power down liveview to save power, without feeling like I'm burning actuations unnecessarily.

Basically the suggestion is a RAW video mode where each of 'standby', 'preview' and 'recording' states are power-optimized, and transitioning between them does not involve the mirror.

How aggressive could a 'standby' state be without turning off the camera?

#47
Feature Requests / 5Dmkii Mirror Lockup Burst Mode.
June 14, 2013, 08:37:46 PM by Doyle4
Was wondering as RAW Video has been accessed, the 50D 5Dmkii and 3 seem to have best potential due too memory card speeds,
so i was wondering if there was a way of making a mirror lock up burst photo mode?

RAW video can capture 25fps upto 1880, can dropping the frame rate way down allow higher resolution to be captured?

As the mkii shoots at 3.9F/S with the mirror, is it possible to be able to capture say 6fps? or even 8 without use of mirror but using the RAW video method? im certain if it was possible full resolutions couldn't be done due to size of files in RAW, im not sure on jpeg as i hardly ever use it but say using small raw mode? (9mp).

Cheers  ;D


#48
I really like the automatic mirror lock-up feature.  When I'm shooting portraits I set it to "handheld" and when I'm shooting landscapes I set it to self-timer.  It would be really good to be able to set it to "handheld and self-timer" so that it would work either if the self-timer is enabled or if the shutter speed is 1/2 - 1/125.

#49
any problems with mirror of the 5D and helios?

#50
Feature Requests / Mirror/reverse display
July 08, 2013, 04:19:09 PM by aamf
It would be great if the live-view display of cameras without a flip-out screen, such as the 5D mark II and III, could be reversed and/or mirrored. This would make it possible to shoot from the hip using a small external mirror such as this: http://flipbac.com/angle-viewfinder-about.htm

Currently there is an option to display the overlay graphics upside-down, but not to mirror or reverse the entire live-view display.

#51


"Mirror Lake" Canon 50D Raw Anamorphic - 4:3 at 1344 X 1008

For this video, I shot with a faster CF Card (100 MBS) that gave me 1344 X 1008 resolution at 24 FPS in 4:3 mode without skipping frames. I could shoot for at least 6 minutes (I didn't try shooting longer). I did my color correction with Adobe Photoshop and converted to 2688 X 1008 in Compressor for Vimeo. Anyone else shooting in 4:3 mode? Can resolution go higher than 1344 X 1008? Thank you.

#52
You can buy such reflectors for example from www.kflect.com.

I have a DoP kit, but when you start with purchasing first just a couple of large sized reflectors it will actually be a low price investment that lasts for a long time.
You will be good for the most part. Do not take a simple mirror this will be too harsh.
Take a K-Flector 2, K-Flector 3, or K-Flector 4. Those diffuse the light more the higher the number.

It was also used on this workshop here: https://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.529092550477856.1073741826.334397456614034&type=1

Cheers

#53
I use advanced bracketing constantly and encounter this issue often. Pressing MENU or changing the mode on my 5D2 (in LV) doesn't seem to work. I just tried it again now. It just keeps shooting away.

Funny story: One time months ago, after starting a bracket, it wouldn't stop--even after powering the camera off and taking out the battery. I turned it back on and it started shooting again. In a panic, being in the middle of a shoot and expecting the client to walk back into the room, I took the lens off. That just made it take shots way faster since it didn't have to wait for exposure. You can imagine me standing there just staring at this thing as the mirror is flipping up and down. It must have taken thirty shots before I thought to take out the CF card and reboot it again that way. This worked. It hasn't happened since. Must be a rare bug.

#54
Feature Requests / Re: Better Image Quality
August 12, 2013, 07:59:48 AM by Digital Corpus
Quote from: groundlessfears on August 07, 2013, 05:09:15 PM
check this link http://snapsort.com/compare/Canon_EOS_550D-vs-Nikon_D90

read advantages of Nikon D90 and see line no 3. and then let me know what they mean by this picture quality.?
To reply or not to reply, that is the question...

Let me say this. My day job is a supervisor in a photography department where we have 45-60 Nikon D90 cameras in operation in a given day. I was lucky enough to be the predominant influence as to how these cameras are configured for getting the best, out-of-the-box image quality possible. That being said, we haven't needed to change that configuration after a few years of deployment.

Now guess what? I'd rather drop kick the camera into oblivion after chopping it up with a hatchet, feeding it to a wood chipper, and then milling it into a fine powder. I cannot stand the functionality, performance, or image quality from the camera.

As a full disclosure, I own a Canon 20D, 30D, and 7D with the Tokina 11-16, Canon 17-55 F/2.8 IS, Canon 70-200 F/4 non-IS. There are 2 features I wish I had from the Nikon firmware that have significant use and no equal on the aforementioned Canon cameras. However, to each their own and use the best tool for the job.

I've shot a few misc assignments on RAW with the D90 and I have less latitude than my 30D. The performance of the D90 is crippled when the battery percentage is at 60% or below which causes additional shutter lag when taking a photo. Despite being in Manual, you have to wait for the metering timeout in order to change the exposure after a half-shutter press, which is an asinine limitation as well. Furthermore, shutter speeds are supposed to be 'intuitive' where one goes from 2 seconds, 1.6", 1.3", 1". But when you change to fractional seconds the '1.3', '1.6', '2', and then '2.5' don't make sense to the average person whereas 0.8", 0. 6", 0.5", and 0.4" do make logical sense. Oh, and the body like to over expose by 1/3 of a stop under normal circumstance and 2/3rds if you have active d-lighting on at normal or higher. The latter of which we've compensated for, btw.


All of that said, I'll mirror the same sentiments that the others have mentioned previously:

  • buy glass
  • learn to take good pictures
  • the body doesn't matter that much.

I hate the D90, but it works for what we do and it's sufficient for the average Joe.

#55
1 or 2 fps could be ok.
1/60 shutter speed minimum

With Helicon remote, on my nikon it's 10s/frame. If I could do 10 frame in 10 seconds it would be much nicer.

If only it could go as fast as max frame per second it would be awesome. In the future I imagine you'll be able take a group of 3 people head, at 2.8 to preserve background bokeh and the camera would automatically do 6 shots, focusing each eye (thanks to facial recognition) in 1 second or less.

Or when you'd do handheld landscape the camera could focus stack everything leveraging depth of field and HDR with 12 view in 1 seconds

If only camera manufacturer were more proficient computer engineers. It's so frustrating

I hope sony will shake things up in 2014, ditching mirror and then obturator would permit amazing things. Let's pray that manufacturers will create true SDK. With an app store (sony started their app store, but only for them).

Also samsung published their SDK, did someone looked at it ?


#56
General Help Q&A / Re: Highest usable 1080p Framerate?
August 24, 2013, 12:58:08 PM by Zao
Quote from: g3gg0 on August 24, 2013, 12:48:46 PM
if you can explain how a dslr works, i bet you will overthink this idea.

Oh lol I see now... mirror goes up to expose the sensor?

Just been using the bitrate build of tragic lantern and it seems to be able to shoot at 37.8 with LV on, at higher bitrates even. Awesome!

#57
Raw Video / Re: RAW video and super 16mm glass?
September 12, 2013, 12:57:42 AM by Nachelsoul
Quote from: robertgl on September 08, 2013, 10:26:55 PM
The adapters on Ebay claim infinity focus. It ultimately depends on the  protusion of the rear element of whatever taking lens that you're using. They will vary
You are right. First I was thinking in C-mount as Super16 lenses, but there a lot of Super16mm lenses in PL mount. So if you want use them there is a PL adapter to do it, but you have to make room for the lens close to the sensor and also remove the mirror or lock it up in some way. So excuse me for what i stated earlier. now, super16 PL lenses on Eos cameras is possible. With Raw crop mode I think that the FF cameras suit better.

#58
It takes a great deal of skill effort and perseverance to hack into hardware and write software fit for fools to use. (includes self)

Sometimes the doors half open but not enough people are pushing, other times the doors only open an inch and you need to call in the explosives team.

Right now Nikon hardware and end user utility is off the pace and patchy. Its why after much research Nikon, the original brand i had set my eye on ended up being at the bottom of my list. Panasonic and Sony have far more modern offerings than Nikon and Canon. Sony is still using a fixed mirror and thats holding them back, Panasonic using 4/3rds and that's holding them back. Despite this Sony, Panasonic and now Samsung are gobbling up Canon and Nikon turf....remember kodak ?...Nikon's doing a bit of a Kodak right now....so hacker love is much needed but perhaps thin on the ground....Canon's got the longer legs right now.

The future is EVIL, Mirror-less and Video...with touch screen tilt n swivel interfaces, high quality audio & external microphones. In fact processor power will mean you wont need a bag of lenses.

Stills photography will give way to video framestacking type processing....in the not so distant future still pictures, will be live. They will be in essence 'static' HDR video snapshots...that will be the approach for capture and viewing. Call it a Live Photograph if you will.


The camera's of the future already exist. See the Panasonic GH3 and Sony A99 for details.  at least their on the main highway
Magic Lantern + Canon = stranglers playing catchup (trying to make good use of Canons legacy)

Canon and Nikon missed the junction marked the future so their lineups are weaving their way across the dust track back on to the main highway. Only a loyal fan base and an equally long legacy have prevented their extinction....im not using a Nikon or Canon webcam, nor is my smart phone endowed with a Nikon or Canon logo.  Astronomers are forced to hack into 5 year old webcams.

Just like Xerox, Nikon could have owned the future. Chances are it will be those with a history of Video, companies like Panasonic and Sony will be the ones leading the video age...and of course the new kid on the block Samsung !
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vpMeFh37mCE



I just bought a Canon 600d, but it was by the slimmest of margins. Panasonic GH1, G5,G6 , Sony A57,58,A65 where all higher on my list than the Nikon D3200 and D5200 , those two Nikon's are dinosaurs feature wise. The D5200 doesn't even have exposure simulation...whats the point of having and LCD screen if you don't even have that !

The hacking is as much about playing catch up as it getting to the cutting edge.

Nikon doesn't just need a Hacker group...it needs a new CEO

Im not even gonna buy a second hand Canon fit lens until im sure Cannon is gonna be part of the future & after dropping the digital video zoom on the 650d and 700d im holding my wallet and not holding my breath....im fresh into the market and these truths are what i discovered.  Ive been watching and waiting for almost 10 years now to buy a digital camera 'worthy of the name' ...and i haven't seen one yet for less than $5,000...come to think of it im not sure ive seen one regardless of price ! Crippleware is how one should describe the current ecosystem.



Im not waiting for some wonder breakthru tech to transform the Digital Camera industry....just a breakthrough in common sense!

Because the tech to make a digital camera 'worthy of the name' has mostly been around for several  decades !!! and im still waiting for some company to join all the bits up and make me a whole one.

#59
Topic has been discussed numerous times if you search.

Answer is no, can't mirror the display, best that you can do is lose the camera monitor and watch the image on the external one, not both. Even with that, it's not perfect and some people have been running into weird issues, but it's a hell of a lot more workable on the 5D3 than on the other cameras.

#60
Quote from: Rewind on September 10, 2013, 06:40:06 PM
Obviously, sensor pixels can operate in two different states, because when the mirror pops up, they become an ususal pixels. Something to do with LV raw stream? This is the grave we should dig in ))

I agree, this has been asked for in the thread.  BTW, my EOS-M is mirrorless.  Yes, when ML writes the RAW file it should just interpolate or deaden those pixels.   I have no idea what's involved in ML code.  Have you forked any of the ML builds? 

I wasn't looking for a new funky name, though thank you!  Just a way of getting away from Java and using a "static" data approach to DNG fixes.  It's easier for me to batch Windows programs instead of Java.  And I don't trust Oracle for a second ;)



#61
Hello folks out there!

@ilguercio
Can you confirm the 6D works fine with the _M42_ Version of the Zenitar 16 2,8 adapted to EF-mount?

I somewhere learned there may be issues with the mirror hitting the last glass-element, because it protrudes one milimeter or so beyond the edge of the EF-mount into the mirrorhousing.

Thanks

docwaechti

#62
Here is my second attempt of an AETTR + DUAL ISO time-lapse.

I am mostly satisfied, but the end result does not match the quality I want to achieve (yet). I followed the method of the first post of the thread.

Around 10% of the images did not survive the cr2hdr process (latest official zip, PS or LR were unable to reopen the DNGs renamed to CR2 (step 4)). I skipped a few other images, which exposure compensation was not good, I mean a perceived difference of more than 1EV from one image to the next. I go with default settings, except the intervalometer set to 30s, max shutter 10s. I also use a 1s mirror lockup.

I would appreciate if you have any advice about that. I'll try next without dual iso (to see If I still get those glitches in exposure compensation) and then update the Magic Lantern to the latest beta.



#63
Feature Requests / [IMPOSSIBLE] Mirror ALWAY up
October 01, 2013, 08:30:58 PM by TLSA
Hey guys.
OK so this is my 1st post here. I was shooting Canon for years and then in 2010 went the Nikon route. I am now back at Canon with the main reason being ML.
I was wondering if if would be possible to get the mirror fixed in the up position when shoot timelapse - in other words the mirror stay up and only the shutter open and closes.

Joe

#64
I would like to remove the mirror in the 50D to be able to use cinema PL lenses for Raw shooting. I know that is possible. Is there someone who has attemp to do that with success. Thanks.

#65
Hardware and Accessories / T4i Mirror remove...
October 14, 2013, 06:14:23 AM by radioman193
I ONLY use Live view and i find the mirror a Big wast ot time and dont like the camera shake and all that Extra NOISE.

i have been thinking of modifying the camera by REMOVING the useless thing ...

what are your thoughts in a mod like this ?

#66
General Help Q&A / Re: Silent picture + Dual ISO
June 23, 2015, 05:09:00 AM by alnasique
Hi there, I was surprized and puzzled much, when my 60d took a shot with these two features on (dual iso and silent picture) on the output it showed a file saved in .dng, picture taken in 465ms, striped like it should be in dual iso mode. But I haven't look at that DNG yet. Interesting, if there is really a full res dual iso ready file there, can I process this stripped dng with that software for converting dual iso cr2 to dng, or I need something alse to get rid of stripes? Thanks

PS. seems like nobody read my comments. Anyway, there is a continuation: saved .dngs are easily processed by the dual iso software, then in photoshop. Interesting that while processing in cr2dng my 60D is recognized as 5d mark III )
Any suggestions on encreasing shooting speed. Negative I saw about it, there is strong vigneting from one side (probably mirror shade) which goes away in editors but not completely. Thanks

#67
Quote from: 5D3shooter on October 31, 2013, 08:14:10 AM
Hey,

What about this adapter?

http://fotodioxpro.com/index.php/c-mount-movie-lens-to-canon-eos-camera-lens-mount-adapter.html

With the extreme wide angle of that lens, it's possible it will smack your mirror though

I was thinking about buying an adapter (just for crop mode... so I don't care vignette), but,, will it work?.  The mirror is a problem here.

"No; Limited Focus Range, Macro Only"... how much is macro???? LOL

#68
hmmm.
iirc if you power it on, the mirror should go down regardless of the main cpu state.
will check that when i am at home.

#69
General Help Q&A / Re: Flip image on LCD display
August 08, 2016, 05:01:42 PM by garry23
I'm reasking about this as I have a use case and would value seeing a feature in Ml.

I have a fixed LCD, EOSM, but use a flipbac, that inverts the screen. Great for using the camera low down.

Is it worth my while asking for a feature request to invert the ML menu and the LCD screen, so things look normal when viewed in the flipbac mirror?

Cheers

Garry

#70
This has been requested as "double exposure".
I just saw one post earlier, try a search and see what is returned.

At the same time, this way might be more plausible than a double exposure.
Whether ML devs have access to the mirror swing.
And whether the mirror swing is hard wired to stop start anything else.

#71
Quote from: LebedevRI on January 19, 2014, 04:25:31 PM
Enabling Mirror lockup and pressing Shutter first time (second press will take pic & close shutter)

That doesn't open the shutter, it moves the mirror.  Second press opens shutter, takes pic, closes shutter after set Tv.

#72
Interesting. What kind of a prism or mirror system do you have in that double lens? Care to show us a sketch or photo of the construction?

Or is this an early April-fools joke? ;)

#73
General Help Q&A / Re: 1100D Liveview focus mode
February 04, 2014, 06:44:08 PM by colt
Hi, In the Delta menu, i have found that i have set the 3rd party flash in LV mode... (I had a flash some days ago, which wasn't full E-TTL compatible, and i tried this to make it work.) This setting caused that if i have pressed the shutter button halfway, the mirror came down, and the camera focused using the phase detecting AF.  :o I have turned it off, and the Live AF is working again  8)

Can this be a bug?

@dmilligan : My Live AF was set to Live Mode all the time. I haven't changed it. Now it is set to Live AF, but in Live mode, the mirror goes down when focusing. If it were the only problem that the wrong AF mode were set, i haven't asked here :D

Thanks for the help all of you  :)

#74
So after a couple of months...without using any ML at all in my 5D M2, I decided to give it a try once again.

So I installed ML into an old card, then I did the same in the two 16gb 1000x lexars and...trying, again and again, pulling out battery, trying to update firmware , etc...It worked.

But I have some issues.

1.-Takes long to boot sometimes, perhaps 3 to 4 seconds...sometimes is faster than that
2.-Sometimes the mirror stays up and locks so I have to take battery out
3.-I can take photos and then suddenly, I goes crazy, the mirror goes up and down so fast as if it were taking photos real fast
4.-Last time, I turned of and the lcd display stayed on...until I removed the battery.

Its annoying since, its not reliable, even when must of the time I can use it without problem...

When using an 800X lexar, nothing happens, everything is just fine..

If anyone has an idea of what prolem is causing this, I would appreciate your help, ML has been a great tool in my 5D M2


#75
Feature Requests / Night Scene mirror lockup
February 15, 2014, 09:19:51 AM by Denisad
I have the 700D and am particularly fond of the Handheld Night Scene mode. I know that queries have been made regarding the possibility of using mirror lockup for exposure bracketing but am not sure whether that has been ruled out or not. I find the Night Scene mode very effective and would love to be able to use mirror lockup in conjunction with it.

#76
Hello all,

Currently when setting up a mkIII and previewing the image (live view), the mirror will only stay locked up for 30 minutes.  At 30 minute, the mirror slaps back down and I can no longer monitor the scene.  I'm wondering if there is a way in ML to keep the mirror locked up indefinitely?

Basically, I want to use the 5dMKIII to feed an image to an external recorder/switcher and not record anything to camera media at all.  I can get it all set up and feed an image to the secondary device through the HDMI out, but at 30 minutes mirror slaps back down and my image is lost.  any ideas?  Thanks!

#77
loool btw.

@themattcastro
found your library scene :) xham?! have seen you in one scene in the mirror :) bad boy.


#78
Hi !

I'm fairly new to Magic Lantern, so excuse me if this can already be done ...

I'm using ML on my Canon 5D2 to generate 7 frame exposure brackets for HDR spherical panoramas.

I have selected Mirror Lock Up and it allows a two second delay between frames, but it would be great to have three secs or longer delay to eliminate all camera shake when mirror goes up.

My spherical panorama head causes slight vibration and a longer delay option would really help ...

Is this possible ?

Also, is it possible to shoot the exposure bracket range in the same sequence as standard Canon firmware (on my 1Ds3) - Ie : Exposure at 0 and -,-,-, then +,+,+ ?

Thanks so much !  :D

#79
I don't take any pictures with my camera, not at all. All i do is video recording. As my job requires it, i have to turn it on and off pretty often (also to preserve the battery).

So I don't want the mirror to move when I turn on and off the camera. To me it's just eating precious shutter life. Can you force camera to make the mirror stay the same all the time?

#80
Hello,
Sorry for my bad english and for my bad knowledge about filmographie.
I think it would be great to only close the mirror on clicking on Liveview (to reduce the shutter count, especially for Timelapses), but the curtain should be closed (to not overheat the sensor). It would be great to also not close the mirror on changing Modis.

Thomas131

#81
Quote from: kitor on May 08, 2014, 10:47:23 PM
Still, it's nonsense as all Canon cameras has 20 or 40MB/s hardware limit on SD cards.
What would make sense it raid0 (mirror striped) array of few MicroSD cards

My crummy SD cards have trouble, especially when I'm out for a while and end up with fragmented cards from deleting...so I could use an SD only implementation. :) But yes, I suppose compact flash does make more sense.


Quote from: g3gg0 on May 09, 2014, 11:33:04 AM
so i think you would have to not only add a FPGA, but also some SDRAM for buffering as the latency could cause trouble.

where are you located at? U.S. i guess?

Yes, of course! I mentioned buffer memory after the FPGA price. Yes, I'm in the US.

I'll see what I can throw together in the next few weeks. I suppose the time to make something like this would be now rather than later, as card prices drop. :)

#82
Quote from: msz on May 10, 2016, 03:08:24 AM
Hi, has been your problem solved?
I have the same issue. I didnt clicked the dont click me menu and I use my 550D for ages with ML, and I'm not sure its an issue with ML, but 3 days ago my cam went crazy. Exactly the same issues you wrote.

Put your camera in M mode, and then press "menu" to get into the canon menu.
Go into the spanner with 3 dots, you should see a menu called "Custom Functions (C.Fn)".
In there, go to number 8, and make sure C.FnIII: Autofocus/Drive Mirror lockup is set to 0 (disabled).
Also check those other custom functions, something might have changed.
Originally they all start on 0.

#83
Builds for me for 1100D, but I'm using a different repo and you can't use modules from it.  Probably you could build from whatever repo you're using.

You could also lock the mirror up before shooting, it's a standard Canon setting.  Should be in Custom Function 8.

#84
Quote from: theBilalFakhouri on May 24, 2023, 09:19:52 AM
Are you using Nightly build?

It seems 1100D nightly build doesn't include silent.mo, but "lua_fix" branch does have silent.mo for 1100D, have you tried a build from that branch?
https://builds.magiclantern.fm/experiments.html

So I took it from the Nightly build.

Okay, I got you. I'll try to get it another way.

I will also check the recommendations regarding lock the mirror.

#85
Have taken about 500 full-res-silent-dng's, which took 50% of my battery charge on the 6d.

Normally I would need less battery charge for that, but I think that the DNG format is taking up most of the energy.
Would expect better results with the ML raw or mlv format, that way it just writes the image to the card(without heavy CPU calculations to create DNG).

To come back to your question, haven't tested it yet, but I expect that the energy consumption is about the same with normal pictures as with full-res-silent pictures(if you use raw or mlv format).
Why? because the camera isn't doing very different things, it only let's the mirror up and doesn't use the shutter, the rest of the actions is about the same...

What I do know from normal time lapses is that high iso and long shutter times (10 seconds or more) do take a lot more energy than low iso fast shutter time.
Nighttime time lapses eat more battery than daytime time-lapses

#86
Hi,

I have a Canon EOS600D with Magic Lantern for about a year and it worked always without problems.
Today, I wanted to do some filming. Lens attached is  a Canon EF 50mm 1:1.4.
As I was in movie mode, I changed the follow-focus setting in the ML menu.
From that moment, the LCD display turned out black and the camera didn't react anymore.
I turned it off but the mirror stayed in the locked position. Same thing for the diaphragm of the lens.
After that, I removed the battery and the memory card but nothing changed after reinserting the battery with or without the memory card.
I put another lens on the camera : nothing changed. The diaphragm of the 50mm lens remains closed event when detached from the camera.
I tried to restart the camera in all dial modes without succes.
Does anyone has another suggestion to unblock my camera? Is there an undocumented feature (key combination) to reset the camera?
Any help would be highly appreciated.

#87
Is it possible to take pictures for a timelapse without having the mirror to move between every pictures aka take silent-ish pictures? I noticed mirror lock up has "self timer" as option, what does it mean? I wasn't able to lock the screen. Not even live view.

#88
First i want to thank for the voluntary work on developing Magic Lantern, it really improved my Canon 7D. 

Now to my issue:
On most of the newer canon cameras you can choose "Silentmode" during liveview operation. With this setting set at "mode 2" the camera uses an electronic first shutter curtain to make pictures.
I realised that with lenses longer than 200mm at exposure times > 1/300s images get considerably sharper when shot in  silent mode compared with mirror lockup. At really long focal lenghts the difference becomes drastic. The reason for this observation is that mlu prevents the vibration caused by the mirror but not by the mechanical shutter movement, so even with mirror lockup feature there is still significant vibration during exposure.
Since I realised this effect, I have used liveview to take wildlife pictures in order to get the full sharpnes.
But shooting telephoto lenses with liveview is very inconvenient, especcialy because you cant use the fast autofocus (allways turning liveview on and off is clearly not feasible).

So in order to improve the mlu feature I make the request to add an option for "shutter lockup". In the most simple way the camera would automatically switch to liveview after locking up the mirror, take the picture after x seconds and turn livewiev off.
But maby you folks know even "cleaner" solutions?

Best regards,
Meik

#89
From what I recall, the shutter speeds were chosen based on their usefulness.

That is, at shutter speeds slower then 1/2, the mirror vibration effect on the image was negligible, since the vibration time was a small percentage of the total exposure time.
And at shutter speeds faster then 1/125, the exposure time (I think) was faster then the vibration time.

The mirror lockup effect, is different to the focal length/shutter time ratio.  The FL/ST ratio is for handheld motion, MLU is for mirror motion.

#90
Quote from: LevasThanks for the detailed explanation, lot's of post processing going on there  ;)
And now I noticed the wavelength filters: Hα - OIII - Hβ (must read better next time  :P )
So 3 wavelengths and the rest of the light is blocked out.
Indeed, inferential narrow band filter was used; light pass for 7~8nm around the frequency, all is block out.
Plus the 5D2 used is also modified, the internal IR-cut filter is not the original one; replaced by a full spectrum Astrodon filter (400~700nm):

This is better if you want to use special filters because the original Canon IR-cut block more or less some wavelength, so you loose a lot of _interesting_ informations.

Quote from: LevasSometimes I make time lapses of the night sky, with maximum exposure times of 15 seconds (I don't have a tracking mount...)
I live nearby a big city, so lot's of sodium street lights over here.
Do you think I can benefit from a clip in (clicks in DSLR in front of the mirror) type of this filter ?
http://www.astronomik.com/en/visual-filters/uhc-e-filter.html
Of course I don't expect a filter like that too give results like the photo you posted  :P (For that I need a tracking mount and lot's of knowledge in post processing astro pictures)
EOS clip filters are very interesting; you can use them with a lot of optics/lens (specific astronomical filters are design to be used only with astronomical optics because of the angular light flux issue). But I never used EOS XL clip filter for full frames camera yet (I see you use a 6D). It should be done next months. It looks tricky, because of the mirror (block in up position?).

The UHC-E filter is adapted if you have a very polluted sky, it gives very good results. All sodium (high and low pressure lamps) emissions are blocked.
But if the sky is moderately polluted, IDAS LPS gives better results because this filter preserve a kind of spectrum continuum (for RVB imaging in one shot) but some sodium emissions are not blocked.
In images:

Left to right: no filter, LPS, UHC

Quote from: LevasDid try to capture the summer milky way a few months ago:
https://drive.google.com/folderview?id=0B1BxGc3dfMDaSkNlZ0ZtaHN4Ym8&usp=sharing

Although not bad, it could use a lot more contrast(and I already added a lot contrast in Lightroom in this example).
Not bad! We can see NGC7000 Nebula, like in the image top of this thread ;)
Your sky doesn't look so polluted in fact. If you are in Europe I know good pollution maps, if you need to have a idea.

Quote from: a1ex
You have used Dual ISO on a such a long exposure? It worked?! Can you share a CR2?
Yes, I did. :D
There's a lot of hot pixels without cooling, and we can't use the cr2hdr hot pixels removing in this case (because of stars) so it's a bit tricky, but it works. With a good cooling it works better, of course (it's better than in regular photography actually).
But the major issue is the spacial resolution loose, important in astrophotography.
Here it was not a problem because it was not for an high end imaging, just for filter tests (we can see horrible reflections in OIII band) and I planned to bin + resample since the beginning, so..
I'll see to PM you CR2 ASAP (I'm not front of my home computer for couple of days).

Beside, the most important stuff in my eyes is the ADTG/DFE Gain + black offset + white clipping definition, drive the Canon sensor like a specialized/scientific/astronomical camera is enormous. I'm thinking to make a ML module with special tweaks for astronomy (and some specialized functions like FWHM map assist in liveview), just need to find time to do a public friendly version.

#91
I shot the Interview using ETTR for Exposure, lighting was available light + reflektor (and the mirror offered nice illumination). i used the LOG Camera Profil in Adobe Camera RAW, then pulled down highlights, whits and the exposure, i also increased the color-dynamic, while pulling down the saturation. After ACR i used the Kodac LOG2HD Color Look Up Table to get back nice natural contrast and color. The Grading methods i use: push the white balance to a warmer color, while lowering (only with curves) the reds midtones, pushing the blues midtones and adjusting the blackpoint to something like 10% blue. with the green curves u can add some look, adding contrast to it. After all i added filmgrain.

in some shots i use neatvideo to either denoise or sharpen (or both) the image (both tools are very great). but in this Shot i simply use an unsharp-mask

hope, i could help you.

#92
I tried to turn on "Sticky DOF Preview" and then "Sticky HalfShutter", and indeed the magic lantern software sends commands after 30 minutes, but the camera closes the mirror and then reopens it.

What to do to send commands through magic lantern before the 30 minutes so as to prevent the camera to close the mirror?

thanks

#93
It wont work cause i wanted to do it too, i measured glass and you would have yo remove everything in ftont with mirror . glass from booster wont be able to fit close enough to sensori its too big.
I sold my 550D and bought canon M , then i bought NEX speed booster/focal reducer and i adapted it to my canon, works nice even clicks into place  :)


There is reason why there's no speedbooster for canon, its because EOS M sold very poorly.Kinda disastrous.

#94
Quote from: dmilligan on December 05, 2014, 01:00:45 PM
Why wouldn't you do: last line reset = shutter open, first line readout = shutter closed? You would just need to use a shutter speed in camera that's as close to the frame rate as possible (as soon as you readout a line you turn it back on).

If you think about it, it makes no difference if you can do a global reset or not, as long as you turn each line back on right after reading it out, all of the lines will be back on by the time you open your external shutter (it makes no difference if they come on early).
The silent picture mode that a1ex is talking about is a "photo" mode. It does not use LV (you use it "from" LV so that the shutter/mirror mechanism is open, but during this time, LV itself is actually disabled). In LV, only rolling shutter is possible (for now).

Maybe I understood what you mean...

#95
Hey,

i want to made a long timelapse-movie for 10 or 11 hours.

Is there a way to make interval-pictures (0.5 fps) with a deactivated screen and without the mirror in the picture-mode?

Thanks

#96
General Chat / Flash Mirror on 600D
March 30, 2015, 10:42:58 AM by RobFlanders
Hi all,

General non-ML specific question - I have a flash mirror that mounts to my hotshoe on my 600D.

However, when you mount something in the hotshoe the camera assumes there is an external flash, and promptly disables the built in flash. Is there any way to disable this behaviour, so that I can fire the built in flash when there is something in the hotshoe?

#97
General Help Q&A / Mirror HDMI Out
November 13, 2015, 08:38:20 PM by melicjus
Is there a way that I can mirror (left to right) the image coming out of the HDMI? I am recording someone writing on the opposite side of glass and am trying to use a blackmagic ATEM switcher to put live overlays on that image but in order to do that I need the live video feed to be flipped coming out of the camera.

Thanks!

#98
Using a 700d. When i set the intervalometer (5s intervals) with silent shoot enabled in live view mode, it takes about 6 pictures before the mirror flips down due to being idle. Then it won't take any more pictures until I touch a button to bring live view back up. I feel like I must be missing something obvious, but I looked through the userguide, FAQ, and searched the duplicate questions and could not find anything about this.

Settings

Intervalometer
-Take a pic every 5s
-Start trigger leave menu
-Start after 5s
-Stop after disabled
-Manual FocusRamp OFF

Silent Picture
-Silent mode simple
-File format DNG

Sorry for the noob question. Thanks for any help you can give.


#99
I got the 5D Mark III from a friend to shoot the wedding, but my cam still is not working :/

Today I tried to put a fresh downloaded ML on my cam.
Now the mirror works when pressing the shutter releas (only in Manual focus) but there are no images on the card. Besides that I couldn't find any differences.
After that I tried to repeat the display test but without success.

Any other things I could do? Is there a way to get ML of my cam? maybe it would work then..

#100
Hi!

I have some Canon FD primes that has been converted to EF. I use them on 5D3. The 50mm has the glas so close to the mirror so it often conflicts while rising or lowering. So I wonder is there a hack to lock the mirror upp, even while can goes in to idle mode?

Best,
David