Quote from: kitor on September 01, 2014, 07:04:39 PMthe shutter still actuates and shutter count increases even if the mirror is locked up
Maybe not to increase shutter count and remove vibrations?
Quote from: kitor on September 01, 2014, 07:04:39 PMis it really noticeable? perhaps you just need a better tripod
remove vibrations?
Quote from: 1% on January 07, 2013, 06:45:56 PMUntethered? Are you saying there is a way to do this tethered?
what camera? i don't think you can shoot jpeg untethered without moving shutter/mirror. the jpegs are small anyways. better off using the 4.22. you can convert them to whatever you need. with movie sizes they are ~hd. shooting a movie for timelapse isn't bad either.
Quote from: Audionut on October 03, 2013, 08:35:00 AM
If you think the mirror is unnecessary, the flash probably is too. *shrugs shoulders*
Quote from: painya on October 03, 2013, 04:41:49 AMgreat tutorial, got to do some measures and ready to remove it. Thanks to all
Would Mirror lock up work? http://www.markshelley.co.uk/Astronomy/Projects/Mirrorless/canon550mirrorless.html This is a pretty big step I'm sure you know that. If you have 4,000$ floating around you might consider buying an adapter, but that doesn't seem like as viable of an option as removing your mirror.
Quote from: ItsMeLenny on October 03, 2013, 07:25:10 AMWhat would be the purpose of removing the flash?
Look at the thumb print left on that mirror! Nasty!!
If one is going to modify a 550D to have no mirror, they should go all the way and insert an extra microphone (the inbuilt mic is actually able to take a stereo input).
Then remove the flash along with the capacitor used to charge it.
Quote from: francescosbg on July 31, 2012, 01:07:22 PM
It works for me if I change in Manual Mode to "bulb" and set intervalometer to "on, 2s" and the bulb timer also in ML to 30 sec.......maybe you ad mirror lockup and timer, hope it answered your question ! greets from Austria, Franz
Quote from: groundlessfears on August 07, 2013, 05:09:15 PMTo reply or not to reply, that is the question...
check this link http://snapsort.com/compare/Canon_EOS_550D-vs-Nikon_D90
read advantages of Nikon D90 and see line no 3. and then let me know what they mean by this picture quality.?
Quote from: g3gg0 on August 24, 2013, 12:48:46 PM
if you can explain how a dslr works, i bet you will overthink this idea.
Quote from: robertgl on September 08, 2013, 10:26:55 PMYou are right. First I was thinking in C-mount as Super16 lenses, but there a lot of Super16mm lenses in PL mount. So if you want use them there is a PL adapter to do it, but you have to make room for the lens close to the sensor and also remove the mirror or lock it up in some way. So excuse me for what i stated earlier. now, super16 PL lenses on Eos cameras is possible. With Raw crop mode I think that the FF cameras suit better.
The adapters on Ebay claim infinity focus. It ultimately depends on the protusion of the rear element of whatever taking lens that you're using. They will vary
Quote from: Rewind on September 10, 2013, 06:40:06 PM
Obviously, sensor pixels can operate in two different states, because when the mirror pops up, they become an ususal pixels. Something to do with LV raw stream? This is the grave we should dig in ))
Quote from: 5D3shooter on October 31, 2013, 08:14:10 AM
Hey,
What about this adapter?
http://fotodioxpro.com/index.php/c-mount-movie-lens-to-canon-eos-camera-lens-mount-adapter.html
With the extreme wide angle of that lens, it's possible it will smack your mirror though
Quote from: LebedevRI on January 19, 2014, 04:25:31 PM
Enabling Mirror lockup and pressing Shutter first time (second press will take pic & close shutter)
Quote from: kitor on May 08, 2014, 10:47:23 PM
Still, it's nonsense as all Canon cameras has 20 or 40MB/s hardware limit on SD cards.
What would make sense it raid0 (mirrorstriped) array of few MicroSD cards
Quote from: g3gg0 on May 09, 2014, 11:33:04 AM
so i think you would have to not only add a FPGA, but also some SDRAM for buffering as the latency could cause trouble.
where are you located at? U.S. i guess?
Quote from: msz on May 10, 2016, 03:08:24 AM
Hi, has been your problem solved?
I have the same issue. I didnt clicked the dont click me menu and I use my 550D for ages with ML, and I'm not sure its an issue with ML, but 3 days ago my cam went crazy. Exactly the same issues you wrote.
Quote from: theBilalFakhouri on May 24, 2023, 09:19:52 AM
Are you using Nightly build?
It seems 1100D nightly build doesn't include silent.mo, but "lua_fix" branch does have silent.mo for 1100D, have you tried a build from that branch?
https://builds.magiclantern.fm/experiments.html
Quote from: LevasThanks for the detailed explanation, lot's of post processing going on thereIndeed, inferential narrow band filter was used; light pass for 7~8nm around the frequency, all is block out.
And now I noticed the wavelength filters: Hα - OIII - Hβ (must read better next time)
So 3 wavelengths and the rest of the light is blocked out.
Quote from: LevasSometimes I make time lapses of the night sky, with maximum exposure times of 15 seconds (I don't have a tracking mount...)EOS clip filters are very interesting; you can use them with a lot of optics/lens (specific astronomical filters are design to be used only with astronomical optics because of the angular light flux issue). But I never used EOS XL clip filter for full frames camera yet (I see you use a 6D). It should be done next months. It looks tricky, because of the mirror (block in up position?).
I live nearby a big city, so lot's of sodium street lights over here.
Do you think I can benefit from a clip in (clicks in DSLR in front of the mirror) type of this filter ?
http://www.astronomik.com/en/visual-filters/uhc-e-filter.html
Of course I don't expect a filter like that too give results like the photo you posted(For that I need a tracking mount and lot's of knowledge in post processing astro pictures)
Quote from: LevasDid try to capture the summer milky way a few months ago:Not bad! We can see NGC7000 Nebula, like in the image top of this thread
https://drive.google.com/folderview?id=0B1BxGc3dfMDaSkNlZ0ZtaHN4Ym8&usp=sharing
Although not bad, it could use a lot more contrast(and I already added a lot contrast in Lightroom in this example).
Quote from: a1exYes, I did.
You have used Dual ISO on a such a long exposure? It worked?! Can you share a CR2?
Quote from: dmilligan on December 05, 2014, 01:00:45 PM
Why wouldn't you do: last line reset = shutter open, first line readout = shutter closed? You would just need to use a shutter speed in camera that's as close to the frame rate as possible (as soon as you readout a line you turn it back on).
If you think about it, it makes no difference if you can do a global reset or not, as long as you turn each line back on right after reading it out, all of the lines will be back on by the time you open your external shutter (it makes no difference if they come on early).
The silent picture mode that a1ex is talking about is a "photo" mode. It does not use LV (you use it "from" LV so that the shutter/mirror mechanism is open, but during this time, LV itself is actually disabled). In LV, only rolling shutter is possible (for now).
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