Canon 6D

[keepersdungeon]

I don't have a 6D at hand. Maybe others want trying to reproduce your issue.
And/or you want to check latest 1.1.3 nightly after downgrading.

Alright, well thanks anw Walter

[Levas]

Are you using a (too) slow card?
7 seconds interval and 5 seconds exposure only leaves two seconds for writing the image to the card.
Normally this should work, but with a slow card...?

[keepersdungeon]

Are you using a (too) slow card?
7 seconds interval and 5 seconds exposure only leaves two seconds for writing the image to the card.
Normally this should work, but with a slow card...?

I have the Sandisk extreme 60mb/s, it does 45 write speed, I think it's enough no? plus the 6d can't write faster

[Levas]

In that case, it's not your card. That should be fast enough to write the image in one second to the card.
Mirror lock up or self-timer on ?

[keepersdungeon]

In that case, it's not your card. That should be fast enough to write the image in one second to the card.
Mirror lock up or self-timer on ?

The mirror wasn't locked up, the self-timer u mean the one for when u take a single image? I don't remember coz I used the 2 second timer and can't remember if I left it on...  Hmmm it could be from that... Doesn't ML overrides it when u set the interval?

[Levas]

As far as I know ML only gives the signal that is the same as the photo-button-press.
So if the selftimer was on, ML gave a signal and then the camera waited 2 seconds because of the self timer.
Had som problems with mirror lockup in the past, I ended up with only half of the amount pictures I expected

[keepersdungeon]

As far as I know ML only gives the signal that is the same as the photo-button-press.
So if the selftimer was on, ML gave a signal and then the camera waited 2 seconds because of the self timer.
Had som problems with mirror lockup in the past, I ended up with only half of the amount pictures I expected [emoji14]

Damn that sucks for the pics lol thanks for the info [emoji14], well that must be it for me,I must have left it on... it makes sense too. Thanks again for the help

[Pronin]

Installed the latest ML from magiclantern-Nightly.2015Nov07.6D116.zip yesterday. It did pass a quick stability test with only MLV video & audio modules on and RAW recording worked fine. I gave it a try in the field shooting raw footage today. Unfortunately, after the first RAW MLV clip shot at 1824x776 / 24fps, 6D froze up with no response to any button press. Turned off the camera. Turned it back on and the warning message came up saying the card is not readable and a format is required. After the format, camera recognized the card and shot images and h264 video as usual without a hiccup. I couldn't reinstall ML since I didn't have it on my second SD card. Nor would I dare to risk losing any footage today. I can't reproduce the behavior now again. But it did happen to me before with a previous build a couple of times. The card is SD Lexar Pro 1000x. What would be the best procedure for reporting the issue with a corrupted card due to RAW recording? PC card reader does not recognize it and prompts for a format as well. Any chance of pulling log files? How would one restore any footage/images lost due this behavior?

[csoller]

Hi folks,

I shot a few MLVs today, and the final frame doesnt match the one displayed while recording.
I used 1536x768 2:1, and the frame displayed had a wide black frame, which I assumed is the final crop. It is not, the actual footage has a smaller angle of view. Bummer...

What am I doing wrong? Or ill have to live with it?

Update: Ok, feel stupid now. The issue comes from ML Raw Viewer 1.3.3. If I watch the file fullscreen it gets cropped. No issue watching in a small window.
Ive been using this software for months, and I havent come across this so far.

Anyone else noticed this?

[csoller]

Pronin:
Im no dev, but sounds like a faulty sd card. If u have valuable information on the card, dont write on it, because u could overwrite and lose something valuable. U will have to restore the partition table of your sd card. Effectively unformat it.

I havent used this software, but found a tut that seems to be fine. http://www.partitionwizard.com/partitionmanager/how-to-restore-partition-on-sd-card.html

[Pronin]

csoller, thanks for a tip on the partition table restoration! I'll give it a try next time the card becomes unreadable.
Lexar Pro 1000x never had problems before with writing and reading on a "stock" 6D for over 5,000 frames (stills) for half year. It still performs well with no ML installed. I'll use another SD card as well to rule out the card poor compatibility with ML.
I do get a couple of black frames at the end of a RAW clip sometimes. Didn't pay attention at their resolution since I discard them (DNGs) before editing .

[csoller]

Keep a close eye on that card, no matter what manufacturer or model, they can go nuts very quickly...
If u disabled frame skipping and still have some black frames thats weird as well.

Im no dev, but I dont know of any reason a card shouldnt work with ml but without. I think the protocol is the same. Maybe a dev will correct me.
I would be scared to use it for production tho...

[Pronin]

I have "Frame Skipping" disabled. FPS override is set to Exact FPS - 23.976. No more than 2 black frames get through sometimes. No big deal for me.

I would be scared to use it for production tho...

I wouldn't use ML on 6D for any valuable personal or production work yet. There is no stable version available for 6D. We are doing beta testing here.

[Levas]

I'm using ML FOR 2 years now on a canon 6d.
In my experience, the behaviour is very predictable.
Once you've tested the ML stuff you use on a certain ML build/version, it's for 99% safe to use without any problems.
So test the stuff you want to use, if it's working fine, don't switch to a newer ML versions.

I have two memory cards, long time I downloaded the newest ML version on one card.
And a tested version (which for me is considered stable) build on the other card.

If I want to shoot something important, I'll grab the memory card with the 'stable' build.

[BenBrillante]

Hi all,

I just switch to the 1.1.6 with the last Nightbuild (on a 6D of course).
It works pretty good so far EXCEPT about a small but major issue concerning the headphone audio playback thru the SESCOM cable...

Until here, when I connected the USB, ML told me that a headphone was connected and I was able to heard the audio.
Now, when I connect the USB, the screen is turning black like I connect the HDMI cable for a external LCD screen.

I understand that this release of ML don't really need an audio menu but the possibiliy to have the palyback thru the USB IS THE BASIC FEATURE I need like a lot of people !

Do somebody can help me about it ?

Cheers

[Pronin]

Are these weird artifacts at iso6400 in a form of color dots/stripes normal for RAW recording? This is not chroma noise. Noise reduction does not fix it.
At iso12800 IQ gets worse accompanied with severe banding.

[Walter Schulz]

In-camera noise reduction does not apply to RAW video recording.
Looks like artifacts caused by line skipping. You may want to use crop mode.

(You may add some details about settings and what we are actually seeing (processed footage?)).

[Pronin]

@Walter Schulz
this short clip was recorded at 1824x776 @ 23.976 FPS.
I use MlRawViewer_1_3_3_win32 for raw conversion.
Similar artefacts are present in Audionut's iso6400 raw samples in this thread:
http://www.magiclantern.fm/forum/index.php?topic=11899.msg130716#msg130716
They appear around sharp edges of objects in focus. 6D's native H264 mode doesn't have them. I wonder if it's a know defect and is attempted to be fixed?

Here are two raw samples from me of a scene with a focus on a foreground and background:
6D, MLV, iso6400, 1824x776px @ 23.976fps
https://goo.gl/UhBUcl (170MB)
https://goo.gl/lpkOyW (163MB)

[Walter Schulz]

Pretty well known issue.
Please look up for artifacts caused by line skipping.
Canon's H.264 implementation uses rather strong de-aliasing algorithms. And that's why (together with other noise reduction + upscaling + sharpening) Canon's video output isn't holding up compared to other brands.

Try crop mode.

[Levas]

These artifacts happen more at higher iso's like 3200 and 6400.
It's caused by a combination of line skipping and dead/hot pixels (which only become hot/dead at the higher iso's and random, because they are moving).

You need software that deals with the dead/hot pixels.
This one will save your content 
http://www.magiclantern.fm/forum/index.php?topic=13152.0

[norbi_nw]

Hey guys. I moved from a 550D to a 6D (116), and I am having some "issues" with the focus box in LV mode. On my 550D that white rectangle was present in auto and manual focus. Now with the 6D, once I select manual focus, it disappears.. Is this normal? and if yes, is there a way to make it appear in manual mode?  My current workaround is activate the MagicZoom feature, and leave it always on, on focus box. That way I get a rectangle (even if it's with a zoom preview on small) to see where my focus point is.

ML is the only reason why I chose the 6D over a Sony a7.   ( i use MF Samyang lenses, and ML offers much better flexibility.. the half shutter zoom-in is ingenious).
It would be great to be able to move that box much faster, because it takes quite a few clicks to get it from one part of the screen to another (holding the D pad won't work.. you have to press for each movement separately).  So if you could implement a speed booster for that, it would be superb! like move 2x speed / 4x speed (like in zoom on playback).

[keepersdungeon]

Hey guys. I moved from a 550D to a 6D (116), and I am having some "issues" with the focus box in LV mode. On my 550D that white rectangle was present in auto and manual focus. Now with the 6D, once I select manual focus, it disappears.. Is this normal? and if yes, is there a way to make it appear in manual mode?  My current workaround is activate the MagicZoom feature, and leave it always on, on focus box. That way I get a rectangle (even if it's with a zoom preview on small) to see where my focus point is.

ML is the only reason why I chose the 6D over a Sony a7.   ( i use MF Samyang lenses, and ML offers much better flexibility.. the half shutter zoom-in is ingenious).
It would be great to be able to move that box much faster, because it takes quite a few clicks to get it from one part of the screen to another (holding the D pad won't work.. you have to press for each movement separately).  So if you could implement a speed booster for that, it would be superb! like move 2x speed / 4x speed (like in zoom on playback).

It's weird, if I press and hold the focus points keeps moving. No need to press the arrow keys for each move

[norbi_nw]

In manual focus mode? (in auto focus, the rectangle shows up and moves quite fast - would prefer even faster movement tho)  If I use my Samyang lens the white rectangle isn't visible..   And the magic zoom box only moves 1 at a time, and not diagonally :/ (manual focus)

[Levas]

For quick focussing I use snap points for the focus box and the 'set' button.
You can activate snap points in 'focus box settings' in the ML 'Prefs' menu.

[norbi_nw]

I have those too, but again, if you set it to 8 points + center, you have to press it quite a few times to snap to the right side and then the D pad to move up or down.. It's OK, but would be perfect with ability to change movement speed. The position of the eyes vary from shot to shot, and at f1.4, you can't risk to focus and then re-frame.

IF the white rectangle would stay ON in manual focus too (not only AF), then yes, it would move faster, because with AF lens the white rectangle moves faster and I can keep the D pad pressed and will still continue to move. Even diagonally. 
But I doubt that is possible... so only workaround would be magic zoom box to move at same speed and continuously. 

This method would shave off a good 2-3 seconds from every shot (with MF).