Messages

Thanks Francis.
I can try now with the exemple you gave.

Hi thanks for the replies.
Yes I understand that at low values it is like problematic as "burst mode" or fast continuous shooting modes.

In fact, it is not to use at fast speeds, nor to "shoot like crazy" :-)
It is for slow/long exposures, and could be useful even when using a ND filter.

-->> example: to select intervals of  1.5 seconds, instead of  2sec intervals.
to achieve things like 2 shots per 3 seconds (instead of 1 or 4).
you can have an shutter of 1 second, and a new pic every 1.5 or 1.6 seconds.
or
You could have a shutter speed of 2 and an interval of 2.5, or 2.6 seconds (instead of 3).
This is to allow smoother timelapses when there is fast movements (car lights at night for example...).
Less "time" "left out" of the movie., better continuity of movements.
In fact, the more I make timelapses, the more I find myself looking for reducing the idle time.
I think the 60D (that i bought only because ML was running on it) could deal with it easily..

The deal is to "not" be obliged to workaround and reduce shutter speed or anything else on the camera in order to compromise for this.
You would be able to better adjust the final movies to the current conditions (cars, wind speed for clouds....).

and beleive me, if I knew how to program it and could take time to learn etc, it would be done already   

If I was a (talented) programmer, I would take the current intervalometer GUI
and would add a line that is meant to add a choice of decimale: (add: [off (0), 0.3, 0.5, 0.6, 0.7) 
I would be happy even with only the choice of the value "0.3 and 0.5" :-) (in case 0.5 is not enough between 2 shots, 0.3 may be useful in that case).

The logic I know would made me make a "table" with the decimal values above, and the outputted time would be the current intervalometer time (seconds) + the add decimal line
ie, an addition at the output of the "module" (output of time = x seconds + y decimals )

This is a logic that i use in making virtual electronic/analog circuit, but that I m unable to program in c or other languages that i never learnt (i tried, but... too old may be :-) . so take it as my contribution, hoping that i can be useful, because the way i see it, i would need to make the current ML intervalometer and then add the line :-).

Now, of course, may be there are technical limitations, in various cameras.
regards

But it looks like there is a language to learn first ?
I am no programmer/developper. It is a big thing for me to go into this. So in 1 week, no I did not have the time to try it.
The spare time I have is mainly to shoot and it is difficult to find time to learn something new, and that looks a bit scary :-)
So i haven't tried anything yet.

I have a 60D and I think I understood that there may not be enough memory to run an intervalometer with a script?

Hello,
I looked over the web for an intervalometer that allows increments of 1/3rd or 1/2 seconds.
I have found nothing.

I would need such function to take 1 pic every 1.5 seconds for example (1 sec expo, 1/2 second record image on sd card).
This is super useful with long exposures, to minimize the un-captured time between two pictures.

example, shutter speed 1 second, interval 1.5 seconds = 50% more captures than a pic every 2 seconds, and more fluidity of movements.

Even in a situation where ypou must avoid "jittering", it could be helpful, to make the interval  longer by 1/2 seconds (or 1/3 or 2/3rd) of a second - instead of 1 full second - whenever possible.

For the moment, i often found myself having to add 1 second just to avoid jittering, eventhough 1/3 or 1/2 of a second added to the original values would be enough to avoid jittering.

I would even like increments of 1/10th or 1/5th of a second, but i don't want to look like i am asking too much :-)


But, i found that nowhere, and everyone seems fine with 1 second minimum... that's sad, even if it is a tech limitation, it would be sad.
Thanks if one can explain the lilmitation, or if the ML team would like to think about a real breakthrough for timelapse photography.
Or, if it exists already, please let me know where.
Thanks a lot  !

That would be right when there is time to turn liveview off between two pics, which is not always the case.
I think the "powersaving" trick that you gave is better, because it should fit any scenario (i still have to try it but it sounds better because you don't have to have super powers of precision to switch LV off when there is , say, 1 second of idleness between two shots, or less than 1 second). Even with long exposure, one might not want to leave more than 1 second between two shots. That's why I think powersaving should be the best option. you don't have to think about it.
Moreover, you don't need to touch the camera with powersaving, so there is no risk of blurry picture due to a moving camera, which would kill a whole timelapse :-)  (or at least the first shots)

ML has been harmless to my 60D.
If I don't want ML, I just plug a SD Card with no ML on it.
But now, all my SD Cards have ML installed. I use the white balance & intervalometer intensively, and sometimes other functions.

Hi A1ex,

Pressing the liveview button doesn't work here.. you bet I tried :-)
The cause of it not working could be not enough time between two intervals when I tried (4 to 5 seconds intervals, with 1 to 2 seconds shutter release + 2 seconds of pic preview = not enough time left to let the "button" instruction pass through?).
Sure it was not a "milky way star shooting" situation where I would go around 24 / 30 seconds.

I have not tested this extensively to determine wether it works on longer intervals.

Thanks

Hi,
May be some of you could support this particular feature request :
http://www.magiclantern.fm/forum/index.php?topic=3548.0

It is made to  help with the random white pixels caused by liveview.
it should also help getting less noisy frames.

it does not stops you from doing dark frames for "normal" noise but should make noise much less aparent.

Thanks to add "+1" to the feature request. I am sure it will be useful as it adresses a well known problem described in most books, blogs etc.

Hi,
This is a needed feature especially for night/star timelapse photography.

When the LCD is hot, and this comes quickly when shotting 30 seconds intervals, it create random little white dots that blink when played in a timelapse.
It is a kind of noise. It is not actual blinking stars, and does not look like stars: it is a "bug" of digital camera, and well-known in night/star photo (look in books or blogs about star shooting technics and problems that arise with digital sensors and that become more apparent in timelpases). And turning liveview off manually once intervalometer starts will not work (at least, not on canon 60D).

The solution is simple -->>  allow liveview to be turned off when intervalometer begins, and until the intervalometer stops.
This could be an additional option in the intervalometer settings (LV off: on/off).

This will not solve all problems, but will solve many problems when shooting star timelapses.

Thanks for listening.

Hello I tried bulb ramping several times, and i got various issues, but the worse is that there is a point when it does not go beyond a certain timing for shutter speed.

In fact, it would be nice to implement another way for it to work, without having to take a reference picture:
- I would love to set the start parameters, middle, and end parameters. (or a method that is similar to that).

For ex, you would fill info such as (arbitrary values for the example)
- 1st frame: iso 320, shutter speed 3 seconds
- mid frame: iso 1000, shutter speed 18 seconds
- last frame: iso 2000, shutter speed 30 seconds
- number of frames : 500
- In such a system, the EV increments would be automatically managed by ML.
- **** Additionally (haha), and that would be a killer feature, you could set the start and end point so that frames below the start are shot like with the first setting without incremeent, AND the frames after the "last" frame point, are shot with the last setting without incremement decremement.

So on my 500 image sequence, the start would be frame 100, the middle 250, and the end is frame 400. Frame 400 to 500 would be shot with the last frame setting without modification. (and the same for frame 0 to 100)

With the current system, I also get many issues of flickering,
and when the bulb reaches a certain value for bulb ramping (which seems to be related to the intervalometer intervals) , then it cannot go beyond it, it goes back to inferior values, then up again etc etc.
For ex, last time I set an interval of 12 seconds, and ML could not go beyond 8. at 8, it went back to 7.5 or so, and redid a progression until 8, then back to 7 again etc etc. This is weird ?

I do not know if it is feasible, but it would be cool to think about a better way to make it work in a fully manual way without a reference picture.
I hope it is possible or adviseable to work like that ?

It allows to create a completely different progression curve than the default.

Thanks for listening !

I use canon EOS 60D.

thanks