Tragic Lantern for EOS M

[maxotics]

These are the steps

o. Naturally, you're in 'M'anual mode
1. Set to RAW 2048x, 2.39 and 12 fps (settings Anthony suggested, assume you can try others too)
2. Make sure record is set to 'MENU'  As if I have to tell you
3. Go into PHOTO mode (top dial).  Go into Canon Menu, photo file format switch to 'L'; that is Jpeg, not RAW for photos
4. On the 4th photo options from the left, there is "High ISO speed NR" click it,  choose "multishot noise reduce" (farthest option to right)  You will get a message saying it will go back to 'basic' if you change to movie mode, or others, etc.  Just click OK
5. Back to screen, hit the touch-screen Zoom box on lower right until it says 5x Zoom.  You should now see image in crop mode.
6. Hit MENU and it will start recording RAW at above settings.

[AnthonyEngelken]

I understand the process for removing the pink dots, I'm just wondering why they occur in the first place. A correction to something I said earlier: If I have Multi Shot Noise Reduction enabled, and am in photo mode using the 5x magnifying glass crop mode, I can capture 58-60 frames of 2048/2.39 footage at 24fps. When I said 31 frames earlier, I think MSNR turned itself off after a reboot. 2 1/2 seconds of 2k raw is definitely getting somewhere.

@1% - What's the possibility of replicating whatever happens to memory allocation when MSNR is enabled and creating a dedicated function in video mode that just does that... only more so?

[gary2013]

 

[maxotics]

Max, I understand everything after step 2.
Step 0- where? Manual mode in photo mode or video mode top dial?
Step 1- set Raw 2048, 2.39 how and where? If i do that in movie (top dial) in the movie menu raw sub menu, it always goes back to 1728 rez. ?? 12 fps how and where? Using FPS Overide?

Sorry for not understanding. I am a video guy and I never really do any of the photo mode stuff.
Gary

I'm thrilled I'm not the only one needing help around here;)  The issue is that the "High ISO" setting reverts if you go into movie mode.  So you need to set up how you want RAW recorded in movie mode (that is the MENU button for record), then go into Photo mode, change to High ISO, then record RAW video by pressing MENU in Photo mode.  When you go back into movie mode the High ISO setting will revert back to basic on its own.    I take it the devs haven't figure out how to keep the High ISO setting to say where it is, in movie mode, or to stop it from reverting when you twist the dial to movie mode.  Hope that explains it.  Another way of saying it is, once you set High ISO in photo mode it will forget it once you go into Movie mode to change anything.

[gary2013]

 

[gary2013]

 

[AnthonyEngelken]

Forget about video mode for a second, start your camera in photo mode and do the following:

1. Hit MENU, then in the first tab, change image quality to the highest JPG value (L).
2. Go to the the fourth tab and change High ISO speed NR to Multi Shot Noise Reduction (NR).
3. Hit MENU again to return to LiveVew, then hit INFO until there's a magnifying glass in the lower right. Hit that, until it says 5x.
4. Double touch the screen to enter the ML menu. Make whatever adjustments you need to in the Expo tab.
5. Go to the movie tab and single-touch the screen while FPS override is selected to set your frame rate; I like 24/Exact FPS.
6. Single-touch RAW video to enter the menu. I currently have Resolution set to 2048x856 and Aspect ratio set to 2.39:1.
7. In photo mode, the video record button doesn't seem to do anything, so you have to change Rec Key to MENU.
8. Single-touch then double-touch to return to LiveView. Press MENU to begin recording.

You never have to enter video mode for this process, all takes place in photo mode. That may change in the future, but this is how to take advantage of the extended memory allocation MSNR provides.

[gary2013]

 

[AnthonyEngelken]

Anthony, thank you. I got it all working as you described. In the 5x crop, I only get about 50 frames and then it stops. I am using your exact settings. When it comes back on without the 5x crop, it records continuous in the normal view.

Besides just for testing purpose, how is this useful being zoomed in so far using 5x crop? Maybe for macro shots but normal stuff like shooting a green screen interview would require the camera to be very far back from the subject to get a useful head to toe shot of a person.

When you leave 5x crop mode, you're shooting resolution automatically drops back down to 1728x434 (maximum), which is why you're able to record continuous that way. The benefit to shooting in crop mode is that pixels on the sensor aren't skipped, and we technically have the whole surface to make use of. The capture pitch is tighter which I assume would make the image sharper, and also reduces/eliminates moire. When you're not in crop mode, the camera skips pixels so more area of the sensor is covered, but as a result it misses information in between.

The zoom is a little annoying in some applications, but won't be an issue when 4 - 5k continuous capture is cracked. I hope the ML team is able to work out some sort of crop mode override that keeps LiveView on the whole sensor with the zoom only happening in the background. Then the capture area could be displayed by the rectangle marker.

[gary2013]

 

[AnthonyEngelken]

thank you for getting me up to speed on this area.

NP, I just hope I'm not lying to you. This is all just the way I understand it.

[maxotics]

The benefit to shooting in crop mode is that pixels on the sensor aren't skipped, and we technically have the whole surface to make use of. The capture pitch is tighter which I assume would make the image sharper, and also reduces/eliminates moire. When you're not in crop mode, the camera skips pixels so more area of the sensor is covered, but as a result it misses information in between.

Yes, once you film something that produces moire (usually something with hard vertical/horizontal lines.  Shelves, stripes on shirts, siding on a house, etc., you'll see why crop mode is the only real fix.  Moire is very difficult, almost impossible to fix in post.  I've concluded that wiith the EOS-M, and even my 50D, unless I shoot in crop-mode I risk getting a lot of moire. 

About getting this to 24fps, I'm a little skeptical.  There's only so much the EOS-M can write to the SD card, about 40MBS. 

[AnthonyEngelken]

Yes, once you film something that produces moire (usually something with hard vertical/horizontal lines.  Shelves, stripes on shirts, siding on a house, etc., you'll see why crop mode is the only real fix.  Moire is very difficult, almost impossible to fix in post.  I've concluded that wiith the EOS-M, and even my 50D, unless I shoot in crop-mode I risk getting a lot of moire. 

About getting this to 24fps, I'm a little skeptical.  There's only so much the EOS-M can write to the SD card, about 40MBS.

I have my fingers crossed that there's some sort of 100MHz/208MHz clock switch hidden somewhere in the SD controller that's yet to be discovered.

[gary2013]

 

[maxotics]

Lower to 12fps. 

[AnthonyEngelken]

Lower to 12fps.

^this, or wait and pray for new discoveries.

[gary2013]

 

[maxotics]

You guys are cracking me up!

[gary2013]

 

[AnthonyEngelken]

what else can we do while 1% gets that audio headphone output working? 

Live a healty and meaningful life?

[maxotics]

While you're waiting HBO to call, what do you know about the PDR?  I put a message on that board.  I've been able to open a DNG from a file that works and a file that doesn't.  They do look different. 

BTW, I like to use PDR on the RAW files straight (instead of on extracted DNGS).  Anyway, don't know how to read/analyze the current DNG and tell PDR where to look for the dot matrix.  It seems the config file has 4 lines of matrix points, any insight?  Thanks!

[gary2013]

 

[AnthonyEngelken]

I know the topic's pretty well covered, but I just wanted to share; I popped a 95/mbps card into my camera, and there's no noticeable sign of improved performance.

[gary2013]

 

[maxotics]

What I've read from some people who seem to really understand this stuff, it isn't possible without more powerful IO circuitry on the camera.  Apparently some CF cards have built in IO processors which can relieve the CPU on the camera of some work--why they are much faster.  Even at the current speeds, the camera gets hot and the batteries probably experience shorter lives.  My guess is that if Canon sent these cameras out with ML a certain amount would fail due to the stress ML puts on the system.  I don't think it hurts it if you're careful.  And there are few ML users and not the kind who will be surprised when the battery dies in 20 minutes.  Keep in mind it didn't take many oil spots on Nikon's D600 sensor for buyers to complain to high heaven.  Finally, 1% made a quip about a help module taking up space in the build.  Memory and IO is always in short, short supply