50D Raw video

[johansugarev]

Does the overheating effects the sensor after sometime?

That's why it's called overheating - heat beyond the safe levels.
What can be considered overheating for the 50D - I dont know. I don't let it go above 57 deg. Celsius.

[johansugarev]

Question: I'm trying to shoot 1584:674 raw at 30fps with Gregory's latest Jun28 build.
I don't understand the shutter values at all. Most of the time it says different things on the top screen from the ml settings in live view. The shutter sometimes locks at 1/33.3 or other values. The ISO shows 100eq or 200eq. When I change the ISO, shutter also changes. It all appears to be a bit random. I can get 1/59.7 with exposure override, but I don't think that is the correct way.
What am I doing wrong?
I use movie mode 1080p 30fps, 1584:674, no FPS override, small hacks ON, Global draw ON all modes and RAW histogram. Everything else is turned off.
And btw, does the Image Finetuning menu do anything in RAW?

[goldenchild9to5]

Question: I'm trying to shoot 1584:674 raw at 30fps with Gregory's latest Jun28 build.
I don't understand the shutter values at all. Most of the time it says different things on the top screen from the ml settings in live view. The shutter sometimes locks at 1/33.3 or other values. The ISO shows 100eq or 200eq. When I change the ISO, shutter also changes. It all appears to be a bit random. I can get 1/59.7 with exposure override, but I don't think that is the correct way.
What am I doing wrong?
I use movie mode 1080p 30fps, 1584:674, no FPS override, small hacks ON, Global draw ON all modes and RAW histogram. Everything else is turned off.
And btw, does the Image Finetuning menu do anything in RAW?

Download Gregory's latest July 11 Built Here:  https://bitbucket.org/GregoryOfManhattan/magic-lantern/downloads

So far its running real smooth, for 30fps Raw it's best to use aspect ratio 2:21 it runs with no problems.   

[Andy600]

That would be great for Newbies Andy.. by the way yesterday was testing your lastest build for some reason my camera heated up quickly that's the first time I got the Red overheating warning any thoughts on why this is occurring?

Not sure unless the temps were very hot where you are. I shot about 80gb of 1080/25p footage this afternoon using the latest Tragic Lantern build. It was 25C/77F in the shade but I didn't get any temp warnings or other issues. The camera does get hot compared to my 600d but I think a lot of that heat is probably in the card and body.

re: your thoughts on raw vs jpeg mode. I don't think it makes any difference to cadence but there is a difference in allocated frames when you hit record. I think this translates to fewer frames if you're shooting 1080p for instance.

BTW I was trying out my 1974 Nikon 50mm F2 again. Not bad for a 40 year old lens

A frame grab from today.....

[spoiler] [/spoiler]

[LEVISDAVIS]

What's up guys. Say I'm from Phoenix, AZ. I've been testing a lot here recently and have done so in some temperatures above 100 degrees and up to 115. What I've noticed is that when the temperature warning light comes on I get reduced frame rates. For example, I have the FPS set to 24 with low Jello, but the actual FPS is 22.148. It appears that the sensor slows down the FPS as a means of not overheating. The camera will not shut off for any reason, which is good. But take notice of your actual FPS when shooting. You'll want to keep an eye out for how you are going to align your audio/video in post.

[Andy600]

At 115 degs I'd be more worried about me dying than the camera 

Why are you shooting lo jello mode?

[LEVISDAVIS]

I shoot in lo-jello because the image is in line with the sensor refresh rate rather than an FPS trying to align to the shutter. It should hold better motion values. The jello effect is basically an issue with the sensor not refreshing fast enough to capture the time distances between frames. Essentially, lo-jello ought to provide a quicker capture of the time between sensor refreshes.

I'm considering shooting at 25 FPS lo-jello because it's a perfect 180 degree shutter.

[Andy600]

I shoot in lo-jello because the image is in line with the sensor refresh rate rather than an FPS trying to align to the shutter. It should hold better motion values. The jello effect is basically an issue with the sensor not refreshing fast enough to capture the time distances between frames. Essentially, lo-jello ought to provide a quicker capture of the time between sensor refreshes.

I'm considering shooting at 25 FPS lo-jello because it's a perfect 180 degree shutter.

Thanks I hadn't looked that one up yet. Does fps remain constant when you don't have heat issues?

[LEVISDAVIS]

The FPS is never an issue when I'm not shooting in high-heat situations.

[FilmPerson]

(I'm not sure if this is the right place to post this,so if not, my apologies!)

I was thinking about trading in my t2i for a 50d to take advantage of the raw capabilities. If I wanted to film a long project, would a hacked 50d work better than what I've got? I've been researching specs but I'm still a bit fuzzy on how stable this thing is.

[johansugarev]

Download Gregory's latest July 11 Built Here:  https://bitbucket.org/GregoryOfManhattan/magic-lantern/downloads

So far its running real smooth, for 30fps Raw it's best to use aspect ratio 2:21 it runs with no problems.

I get the same stuff with shutter/ISO. When I put exposure override on it seems to be better, ISO says what is supposed to most of the time. But when I change it, shutter starts saying 1/33.3 and ISO 400ov. I guess it's supposed to do that, I just don't understand it. I'll reformat and try again.

[raywillus]

Help please !! when i drag my raw file to "raw2dng" app, it not only generates a DNG folder with all the DNG files but also a MOV. file. I am confused, does the "raw2 dng"  directly combine DNG file into a raw MOV. file or it is just normal H.264 format?

[johansugarev]

It generates a prores mov file, in order to preview your footage. It's only for reference. The raw frames are in the _dng folder.

[eatbuckshot]

(I'm not sure if this is the right place to post this,so if not, my apologies!)

I was thinking about trading in my t2i for a 50d to take advantage of the raw capabilities. If I wanted to film a long project, would a hacked 50d work better than what I've got? I've been researching specs but I'm still a bit fuzzy on how stable this thing is.

I have both the 50d and T2i right now and I'll have to say for the most part it depends on what you'd like to do for your "long project"

Currently I'd say the 50d ML is pretty stable for now and I hadn't had issues recording for long periods of time.  Granted, it's still experimental in a way, but for the purposes of your situation let's just say it's perfectly stable.

With that said, you'll be getting into a lot more required post processing and setup when it comes to recording raw. 
- External Mic and recording device (if you need sound that is)
- 1000x minimum speed CF card (64GB for about 15 min of 1584x896 res footage at 24p, ) (or slower if you're only shooting a few second clips)
- Ample amounts of hard drive space, preferably ssds for storage and transcoding
- fast cpu and lots of ram for video editing and stuff (typically that is)
- transcoding every clip
- learn to conform and grade
Also there's only a max of 1584x896 res (though upscaled to 1080p seems pretty good people say) or 1080p24 in 5x zoom
With raw you do get a minor increase in sharpness and resolution(though moire and aliasing might crop up easily, where special care needs to be taken) (or a good amount in 1080p crop), a lot in dynamic range (for grading), but you do need to know how to use it

If this is going to be a feature length film, just 1 hour would require at least 512 GB of space, and if it's a short film... well that's somewhere along the lines of footage you'd record and cut from... That is just all the raw data... Still needs to be extracted into DNGs or turned into some intermediary codec...

Anyway it'll require a LOT of work, so if you aren't familiar with the workflow or have the necessary hardware for it.. it'll be a pain..

I shoot a lot of events which are hours in length and I find that the T2i h264 at 1080p or 720p is more than sufficient since I don't need to do grading and it just gets cut together for youtube uploading.  I got the 50d and a komputerbay 1000x 64gb for $650 (i paid like 100-200 more than necessary) because I want to learn about the capabilities, raw workflow, and possible further developments with ML since I am a comp eng.

If you're technically able to find grading footage shot in h264 limiting and restricting, then it's a good consideration to make, else it might be better to stick with the T2i instead of swapping it for the 50d

[godweeno]

Can someone tell me why my exposure meters are not showing up in liveview?? 

[iheza]

Can someone please tell me if it's possible to activate the lens IS/VR before and during recording of RAW video without having to half-press the shutter button? .. If that's not possible then how can I start recording when I have the shutter button half pressed? Right now I have to release the shutter button in order to start recording with the SET button.

[darko]

I am getting continues  OK shooting at 2000 x 852 with Transcend x1000 32GB in x5 mode at 25fps,
also 1584 x 1056 continues Ok in normal LV mode with latest Gregory's build from 11th July(hack on - card warm up 128 MB)

and in 1920 X 1080  (X5 mode) getting 308 frames at 25 fps  and  426 frames at 23.984 fps

This is huge improvement , previously only was getting up to 1340 x 1058 continues shoot.

This is real stable now ,of coarse also using exposure override and ISO works well.

Now would be  comfortable to go  and film music vid  paid gig with 2 x 50d cameras .
It writes up to 75MB/S !

[darko]

Tested many times times today and happy to confirm those numbers above they are correct , also just discovered that crop mode x5 at 24 fps I am able to just get continues shoot at 2000 x 910 ! yes,it writes about 71- 73.7MB/s  sitting  stable,shot 12GB STRAIGHT then my battery went flat,oops...forgot to charge/change...CONFIDENT WILL DO FULL CARD AT 2000 X 910 AT 24 FPS WITH TRANSCEND X1000 32GB

[Rolfe Klement]

All been good but with latest build (Greg 11 Jul) I suddenly started getting a few pink dots - using  RAWMagic 7b

Thoughts?

EDIT - just ran files through RAW2DNG and no pink dots... Something in RAWMagic

thanks

[KahL]

Strong results from the latest build as well, guys.
A few frame captures from a comedy short we're in post for, "The Passive Aggressive Little Toaster"





So this now marks the SECOND official production that I've shot totally in Magic Lantern DNG RAW. The Director didn't mind not having playback at all actually. I just gave him a second monitor to manage the shots as if we were shooting on film. Actually it made things FASTER, since the idea of playback from a Producer or anyone else wasn't on the table :-)

*um...can we NOT have playback in the final build, by the way? HAHA*

[goldenchild9to5]

Strong results from the latest build as well, guys.
A few frame captures from a comedy short we're in post for, "The Passive Aggressive Little Toaster"





So this now marks the SECOND official production that I've shot totally in Magic Lantern DNG RAW. The Director didn't mind not having playback at all actually. I just gave him a second monitor to manage the shots as if we were shooting on film. Actually it made things FASTER, since the idea of playback from a Producer or anyone else wasn't on the table :-)

*um...can we NOT have playback in the final build, by the way? HAHA*

Great Job Kahl.. real nice images and colors.  Got a question how how did you keep the noise down from the 50D.  Any specific Settings from Canon menu, and ML settings?

[KahL]

Great Job Kahl.. real nice images and colors.  Got a question how how did you keep the noise down from the 50D.  Any specific Settings from Canon menu, and ML settings?

Well my usual setting fall in line w/ using magic lantern iso settings by default, but that may not play a part in it at all. Best guess: it's probably how I lit the scenes. Also the dng noise looks more like grain as well, so that could be a factor too.

[jhnkng]

Hi everyone,
I've been lurking on this thread since about page 35, thank you everyone for contributing so much great info! And huge thanks to the developers for the constant improvements!

I've tried searching but I've not found the info I'm looking for, but I shot with the latest Hudson build (magiclantern-2013Jul11.50D.109.go.unified.5db91070a1aa) and I'm getting this weird frame tearing:



I shot 12 different shots and I got it in each shot... any ideas as to what's happening? I've tried using raw2dng and rawmagic to process to dng, and it happens with both.

1%'s 80point1 build is the one I'm finding to be rock solid, though I understand that that is an experimental build and I'd like to get back to the standard builds if I can.

Thanks everyone, keep up the great work!

[1%]

With GD off?

[goldenchild9to5]

Well my usual setting fall in line w/ using magic lantern iso settings by default, but that may not play a part in it at all. Best guess: it's probably how I lit the scenes. Also the dng noise looks more like grain as well, so that could be a factor too.

You mean by changing ISO's from ML ISO window?  or its something else?