WB questions

Started by deleted.account.01, December 29, 2012, 05:18:02 PM

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deleted.account.01

i just wonder if i made WB at home and i turnoff camera i need after camera startup make another WB ? or camera remember WB setings..?


nanomad

It should remember them but then I don't see the usefulness of that since you should adjust WB to the scene anyway
EOS 1100D | EOS 650 (No, I didn't forget the D) | Ye Olde Canon EF Lenses ('87): 50 f/1.8 - 28 f/2.8 - 70-210 f/4 | EF-S 18-55 f/3.5-5.6 | Metz 36 AF-5

deleted.account.01


always i making  another WB after i change location..but not always ican make WB at night ..

drapeama

Quote from: MzytengaM on December 29, 2012, 06:30:49 PM
always i making  another WB after i change location..but not always ican make WB at night ..
Check the number in ML menu once you did the WB. Then apply it manually when you can't, like at night.
I don't bother as I always color grade in post or adjust everything, but you can adjust it manually "by-the-eye", to your taste.
[SIZE=1]I DO IT BECAUSE I CAN. I CAN BECAUSE I WANT TO. I WANT TO BECAUSE YOU SAID I COULDN'T.[/SIZE]

deleted.account.01

Quote from: drapeama on December 29, 2012, 06:34:26 PM
Check the number in ML menu once you did the WB. Then apply it manually when you can't, like at night.
I don't bother as I always color grade in post or adjust everything, but you can adjust it manually "by-the-eye", to your taste.


on my camera good balance its i thing some 5500 k or 6500k ..
my problem is weird cus i love editing but i dont realy liek editing still shots..its no problem for me edit it  but i just get my first digital camera and i was expecting to have little more  from dslr cameras ;) .. i thing now i need biger sensor 22 inch taking not muche light i was thing it  will..
u guys call it full frame cameras ~ :D

drapeama

Quote from: MzytengaM on December 29, 2012, 06:47:15 PM
my problem is weird cus i love editing but i dont realy liek editing still shots..its no problem for me edit it  but i just get my first digital camera and i was expecting to have little more  from dslr cameras ;)
I usually shoot RAW and once the first is corrected in Camera RAW, you can create a preset and apply it to the others image you open. Quite easy task.
[SIZE=1]I DO IT BECAUSE I CAN. I CAN BECAUSE I WANT TO. I WANT TO BECAUSE YOU SAID I COULDN'T.[/SIZE]

scrax

Quote from: MzytengaM on December 29, 2012, 06:30:49 PM
always i making  another WB after i change location..but not always ican make WB at night ..
What film will you use at night? daylight or tungsten?
If WB is giving you problem why just don't ignore it and go only with the old 5200 or 3200 + filters?  ;)

shooting RAW (of course) I usually have it in auto except for difficult or extreme light quality, in those cases (like for example when street light have orange cast, for fog probably) I used to take a shoot of a white paper in front of the subject and then use it as picture for custom WB on my 600D before ML, now it's a job that do Uni WB for me :D
I'm using ML2.3 for photography with:
EOS 600DML | EOS 400Dplus | EOS 5D MLbeta5- EF 100mm f/2.8 USM Macro  - EF-S 17-85mm f4-5.6 IS USM - EF 70-200mm f/4 L USM - 580EXII - OsX, PS, LR, RawTherapee, LightZone -no video experience-

drapeama

Shooting RAW and using CameraRAW can allow you to WB in post, in case of issue/error while shooting. It makes wonders.
[SIZE=1]I DO IT BECAUSE I CAN. I CAN BECAUSE I WANT TO. I WANT TO BECAUSE YOU SAID I COULDN'T.[/SIZE]

deleted.account.01

Quote from: scrax on December 30, 2012, 01:27:25 AM
What film will you use at night? daylight or tungsten?
If WB is giving you problem why just don't ignore it and go only with the old 5200 or 3200 + filters?  ;)

shooting RAW (of course) I usually have it in auto except for difficult or extreme light quality, in those cases (like for example when street light have orange cast, for fog probably) I used to take a shoot of a white paper in front of the subject and then use it as picture for custom WB on my 600D before ML, now it's a job that do Uni WB for me :D


filmy ? i was always use 800 or 400 kodak..but i not pick any extra film from frezers cus they are t oexpensive...alsow i was never use filters on lens.. i thing of some  filter what will corect chromaticaberation or it will just remove it before i take shot.. ialsow dont realy like lenses with alot glases in side.. and i hate Zoom .. prefere more prime lenses but once more they are t oexpensive for me..

now i use manual WB ..if i can doing WB in old style what is shot in day white surface this what makes camera know how looks wite color..i got now in camera one cr2 full light photo what i use sometimes to make WB with  photo..this last way is usefull but im not fully sure if this what i see on lcd screan is realy withe or it looks like white...well.. like for now is ok

Quote from: drapeama on December 30, 2012, 06:09:26 AM
Shooting RAW and using CameraRAW can allow you to WB in post, in case of issue/error while shooting. It makes wonders.

i just realize someting about RAW.. when i shoting RAW i just Must use edytor..RAW hmm.before i was ting its jsut Next Photo format but is not.its  jsut data ..and i need to use some edytor when i shoting raw`s,,   but now wit that DNG  converter i pick another way..i dont realy thing i will use LightRoom any more.. i fee liek tis soft doing soemthing wrong with photos..im not sure yet what but when igot this fealing i just stop using it.PS is enough

scrax

Quote from: MzytengaM on January 05, 2013, 05:31:07 PM
i just realize someting about RAW.. when i shoting RAW i just Must use edytor..RAW hmm.before i was ting its jsut Next Photo format but is not.its  jsut data ..and i need to use some edytor when i shoting raw`s,,   but now wit that DNG  converter i pick another way..i dont realy thing i will use LightRoom any more.. i fee liek tis soft doing soemthing wrong with photos..im not sure yet what but when igot this fealing i just stop using it.PS is enough

Adobe Camera Raw and LightRoom share the same processing engine, so your impression should be just an impression or the different workflow you use with PS, since Lightroom has a more forced workflow. But LightRoom is good for catalogin and do basic edit/develop of RAW, before opening them in PS. With LR i open only the best images in PS that requires more precise work on them before printing, in LR i can edit RAW quickly with multi file editing at once or copy and paste edits, and so on. so it's good for help me selecting, manage and preview images that when choose will finish in PS.

I think you should see RAW like undeveloped film, tiff/jpg like a developed film. One of the biggest advantage of RAW vs film is that you can have "infinite" develop results instead of just one. Most people think that digital is faster because they don't even know RAW, develop time are similar IMHO with digital or with film for professional result. Maybe printing is faster in digital photography.
You should not consider to not shot in RAW because it's more work than with jpg, better learn how to have a good raw workflow that will suit your needs, for me LR was ideal, Aperture for example is not really good for how i manage my pics, even if it's pretty similar to LR.

OT: your link under the nick is going other your post making them harder to read, can you keep only the one in sign maybe?
I'm using ML2.3 for photography with:
EOS 600DML | EOS 400Dplus | EOS 5D MLbeta5- EF 100mm f/2.8 USM Macro  - EF-S 17-85mm f4-5.6 IS USM - EF 70-200mm f/4 L USM - 580EXII - OsX, PS, LR, RawTherapee, LightZone -no video experience-

deleted.account.01

Quote from: scrax on January 05, 2013, 07:04:13 PM
Adobe Camera Raw and LightRoom share the same processing engine, so your impression should be just an impression or the different workflow you use with PS, since Lightroom has a more forced workflow. But LightRoom is good for catalogin and do basic edit/develop of RAW, before opening them in PS. With LR i open only the best images in PS that requires more precise work on them before printing, in LR i can edit RAW quickly with multi file editing at once or copy and paste edits, and so on. so it's good for help me selecting, manage and preview images that when choose will finish in PS.

I think you should see RAW like undeveloped film, tiff/jpg like a developed film. One of the biggest advantage of RAW vs film is that you can have "infinite" develop results instead of just one. Most people think that digital is faster because they don't even know RAW, develop time are similar IMHO with digital or with film for professional result. Maybe printing is faster in digital photography.
You should not consider to not shot in RAW because it's more work than with jpg, better learn how to have a good raw workflow that will suit your needs, for me LR was ideal, Aperture for example is not really good for how i manage my pics, even if it's pretty similar to LR.

OT: your link under the nick is going other your post making them harder to read, can you keep only the one in sign maybe?

sure i just forgot to remove that link i past it in to many places  ,,,

i can do all stuff on Ps with dng file what i can do in LR with raw..in future i planing take somehow lastes PS for load stright raw file to PS with out converting..
Lr is cool like u say cus  u can apply all changes to all selected images .but this what i can see its not always tis wat i like to see after sync ..
some shots haveanother exposure ( time lapse ) even setings on camera are not changed light outside is changing ..i was have fewtimes situation in LightRoom .. i was have time lapse shots  ( sun Rise ) i not use iso switchng .just intervalumeter from Magic Lantern photos was taken with same seting but LightRoom sean them like with another exposure only cus britnes was changed  on frames..not seting in single shot .
i pick warning abotue this but ehehe.. i dont realy want spending 10 hours for corecting it in all single frame..
i can ignore this warning in LR but results will be flickering screan....
i must say i stuck with this..not sure how to make it not flickering iso. when light is `still`  everything is cool..
but this is not some big trouble :D ,, i can always use SonyVegas and d osame stuff what LR can ;) ...

i got something more here.. when i shoting RAW with Magic Lantern i got my shots + some extra file ( is created always after or before ML starting make sequence  of shots ) ... tis file its :   SH File (.SH)
im not realy sure how i can use it ..i was thng maybe this is some type of Setings what i used for shot and with this file i dont need making deep editing jsut use  SH File (.SH) file and all setings waht i use in shots + results are savedin this file so i can load it in edytor and  lol ..but i cant load it :D.. im not realy sure what this file is for..its some script form ML what i can use in lol scriptloader or someting ?

Malcolm Debono

SH is a unix/linux shell script. It shouldn't be present for every RAW file, but maybe for every HDR bracket you take. It basically can be executed to automatically generate an HDR image from the bracketed images you shot using a tool called enfuse. You'll need to use a tool like Cygwin to be able to execute .SH scripts under Windows though.

I think there's the option to turn them off from the HDR sub-menu since most probably you won't be using them.
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deleted.account.01

Quote from: Malcolm Debono on January 05, 2013, 09:28:52 PM
SH is a unix/linux shell script. It shouldn't be present for every RAW file, but maybe for every HDR bracket you take. It basically can be executed to automatically generate an HDR image from the bracketed images you shot using a tool called enfuse. You'll need to use a tool like Cygwin to be able to execute .SH scripts under Windows though.

I think there's the option to turn them off from the HDR sub-menu since most probably you won't be using them.

:D thx. so i was little wright.. i got this file only after hdr bracketing with ML .. and if this is this what u say i want to use it :) .. loks liek this will be my first step in t oscripts what i like but dont understand .