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I was using SET for x10 Zoom but now using for Aperture + so was hoping for an alternative for x10 Zoom that toggles on/off

If you set your camera to Manual Focus (MF), in the canon menu, or on the lens if you are using an ef-s lens on an adapter.

You can go to the customize buttons menu and set it as:

Half-Shutter: Zoom x10
SET Button: Aperture +
INFO Button: Aperture -

Then, pressing the shutter halfway (Be careful not to push it too far!) will toggle x10 Zoom on off.
If you press it all the way in, it may take a photo, but sometimes it freezes the camera. So you need to pull the battery and restart it.

EDIT: I remember what I did to stop that annoyance:
Go to the Canon Menu
In the 5th tab
Set Video snapshot to: ENABLE
From now on, when in Video mode, the full Shutter Button won't work at all.
And it will work as usual in Photo Mode.
No Video Snapshot seems to be recorded on the card.
I haven't tested if it affects performance though. Let me know.



If your camera (Or ef-s lens) is set to AF

You can go to the customize buttons menu and set it as:

INFO Button: Zoom x10 (Preferred)
or
SET Button: Zoom x10 (If you do this, you won't be able to recenter the focus box automatically if you move it. You will have to use the arrows on screen to put it back in the center)

Then you use the wheel to change the Aperture.
If you use the wheel directly, it will change the shutter speed.
If you push right button, then turn the wheel, you will be able to adjust Aperture + -

Using the Tap screen fo x10Zoom would not work, as you wouldn't be able to turn it off once you're in, because of the Nav arrows on screen;
Using the U/D buttons seems to have a performance cost (I don't know if it's the buttons themselves, or what's currently assigned to them);
L/R buttons cannot be assigned in eos m ATM (From what I have read so far).

[Exposure vs Noise (EOS M)]

Exposure vs Noise (EOS M)

(It will be easier if you download all the images first. The file names are descriptive.)

The end goal here is to come up with a realistic minimum average exposure, to establish an approximate Data Rate for any given Resolution / Bitrate / Framerate.
That way, someone could decide if they want to invest $100 for a lexar card, or settle for a $15-$20 Samsung if it gets the job done at one's preferred resolution.

So, to find out how low we can underexpose to save some bandwidth, while keeping a good image quality...

Given that the chart I used in the previous post:


Is exposed like this:

(Exposed ETTR, whithout any clipping)

We get images like these:


14bits


12bits


11bits


10bits


14 bits, with exposure lowered in MLV app to check highlights.


10 bits, with exposure lowered in MLV app to check highlights. Highlights are comparable to 14 bits.


So far, we can see that without any shadow recovery, noise starts being visible around Stop 6. Slightly before 6 at 10bits, but barely (Not easy to judge with a static frame)
This will vary according to the color of course.
A slight red tint appears in the low level noise at 11bit, and becomes obvious at 10bits.

Let's investigate the shadows. We'll add a shadow boost of 100 in MLV app:

14bits with Shadows +100


12bits with Shadows +100


11bits with Shadows +100


10bits with Shadows +100


Now we see a huge difference in the quality of the noise that is recovered along with the shadows.
at 14 bits, the noise starts to become really coarse at 9 3/4 below Highlight level.
at 12 bits, the coarseness starts at around 9, but there is a clear difference starting around  Stop 7 compared to 14 bits.
at 11 bits, the difference compared to 12 bits starts at Stop 7, but the coarseness start being visible at 8.
at 10 bits, noise becomes quite visible at Stop 6, at Stop 8 there is a lot more noise than at 11bits, and what is at 9 and below is uncomfortably coarse. Also, there is a red tint all over the shadows.

Let's see if using Darkframe subtraction improves the noise a bit.
I filmed clips with the cap on, one dark clip per bit rate. I exported those dark clips with the exact same 4 second length as MLV fast pass and then as MLV Averaged frame (To get same length averages).

14bits, shadows+100, Darkframe subtraction:


12bits, shadows+100, Darkframe subtraction:


11bits, shadows+100, Darkframe subtraction:


10bits, shadows+100, Darkframe subtraction:


10bits, shadows+60, Darkframe subtraction: (To see what it looks like in a slightly more realistic context)


At 14bits and 12 bits, the difference is subtle, but still noticeable as the red tint is removed.
But at 11bits, slight vertical lines begin to appear and at 10bits, those vertical lines become quite obvious.

So, what does this all means?

1st thing is to avoid shooting at 10bits if you plan on making any color or exposure modifications in post. I would start with 11bits minimum and prefer at least 12bits.
(This has been stated before by several members on this forum).
Because exposing close to ETTR maximizes the amount of light the sensor receives, and the bit reduction happens once the signal is digital Edit: This is not 100% exact, it appears that the bit depth reduction is obtained by gain reduction at the analog stage and a 14bit container is always used. (This is one of the reasons why the quality of the noise degrades rapidly at the lower end of the scale, as bits of the shadows sharply get crushed to pure black. You end up with larger black blocks once you bring it all up);
I am under the impression that adding a 13 bits option would be a good idea to help gain a few MB/s, as this would still allow to ETTR while allowing a slightly lower Data Rate, as opposed to significantly Underexposing 14bits while recording.

Now, we want to make sure that Skintones are always above the visible noise level, which is between Stop 5 and Stop 6 below highlights;
But we also want to keep the grainy parts as low as possible...

The EOS M is rated at 11.2 Stops of DR according to DxOMark :https://www.dxomark.com/Cameras/Canon/EOS-M---Measurements
We definitely want anything important enough to be seen to be above Stop 9, because of the coarse noise happening below that point.

Based on the false color images above, the average showing up on the Histogram should be above 2.6 to minimize the grainy noise in the visible parts.
I know, by experience, that outside on a sunny day, I can shoot 30 seconds + whatever, at 2.8k/14bits with histogram showing 1.2 (up to 0.8 every now and then) As long as the highlights are mostly yellow with a hint of red (On the false colors).

So the target seems to be somewhere between Histogram 2.6 and 1.0 (Histogram set to ETTR Hint).

Again, the goal here is to come up with a realistic minimum average exposure, to establish an approximate Data Rate for any given Resolution / Bitrate / Framerate.

Your comments are very welcome...

[A Little Primer On Exposure]

A Little Primer On Exposure

In order to come up with a representative enough chart for possible record times for a given resolution (To help choose the right card for a given budget),
I needed to establish a few things first. As data rates are heavily influenced by the average exposure of the scene, we need to have a good idea of how low we can go before getting too much noise.

So, the first thing is to find out where the sweet spot is; the goal being to get the lowest decent Data Rate while keeping noise at bay.

Once you factor in all the hours needed to really understand those cams (Eos m, in my case), it's definitely not a $300 cam anymore! Hopefully, those posts will help those beginning getting straight to making movies...

DISCLAIMER: This is not an absolute Dynamic Range test. I did not have access to the proper tools to get to that level. So I used a computer monitor, which already has some sort of polarizer applied to it, plus the Variable ND on the lens, which is 2 stacked polarizers. So the illumination is uneven.
But for the present purposes, it is fine.

The chart I used:

I created the file on Photoshop Mac. If you use a PC, you'll need to adjust your brightness and contrast a little, as the gamma is different (This matters only if you plan on replicating the test.)
There is 1/2 stop difference between each level on top, and 1/4 stop difference at the bottom.

The values when using the RGB Spotmeter on the EOS M (In Red):

I recorded the chart slightly off-focus, to eliminate the Moiré (it is an LCD Monitor right?!)
Those are the values you get when exposing the Chart ETTR without any highlight clipping.

The Marshall False Color Key:

To help decide how low of an exposure we can use to get a good Signal-To-Noise Ratio (SNR) we'll use the False Colors on the EOS M, set to Marshall. In that case, The Pink has been replaced by Orange, and Black means your Highlights are clipped. Magenta (Fushia on that picture) means your Blacks are clipped. Orange is the ballpark for well exposed skintones.

So given this scene:This is taken with a phone. I will put the actual MLV output in the next post.


With False Colors applied, we get this:

(Exposed ETTR, whithout any clipping)

If we were to clip the highlights:

If you do this on the EOS M, you'll only get a few seconds of recording time. You can have Red, but Black is a no-no.
Black means your highlights are clipped.

With a slight underexposure:

In that case, anything in the area below the 9 1/4 Stop will give you an ugly kind of noise where the Magenta dots appear,  if you try to do any shadow recovery (Actual examples in next post).

Heavily Underexposed:

Here, anything lower than 8 stops below the highlights won't look nice if boosted in post.
So, you need to leave Magenta for only the darkest blacks you know you'll never try to recover!

As a last resort:

This would give you 8 clean stops of Dynamic Range, plus a full stop of shadows you can recover relatively cleanly. If you get a little Magenta in a very dark area (For example, under a tree) no one will notice. If I do something serious, I'll add some kind of reflector or light to bring the shadows up a little. If I just walk by for fun, I may just choose a better spot

At night:

If this was a nightly or dimly-lit scene, it could still look good, as long as the subject is around the 2nd stop and you crush the lowest shadows a little.

So the next step is to find out when the noise becomes obtrusive... In the next post.

Here's a very good short Youtube link if you want to see false colors in action, in a more natural context: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nncazai0Ei4

Thanks. As long as we know what's going on, it's easy to make a decision / compromise based on our needs (Pre-Focus at x10 Zoom on my end).

The Half-Shutter AF while filming works best at 2.5K and 1080p, and these modes can do without the 5 MB/s on a good card

I wouldn't expect the recording to stop because of this, it looks non-fatal.  You say it can take 5 seconds before recording stops.  I think the recording stopping is not *directly* related to this error.  It could easily still be a symptom of whatever the root cause is.  If a dev with more raw video experience wants to look at this, working out why the slot ends up being freed when it shouldn't is the obvious place to start.

Thanks for looking into it.

thx a lot. will try. exciting.

I overlooked one thing: You seem to be using the 650D and 100D exclusively, So you won't be able to use Danne's custom build for now.

Therefore, You'll have to use bilal's original build.
You can follow the instructions here to enable all the modules: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=V0M7n2cAHMM

Sorry about that!

Can you define "everything available"?  I might be able to add logging if I knew what you wanted to be logged.

You (And the other Devs) will need to validate what I am saying here, as I do not code.

So I will describe the problem: You record let's say 10 clips, then all of a sudden, there is a "Frame Order Error slot XXX frame XXX expected XXX". This stops recording prematurely, but usually recording again will work for a while until the error happens again.

What happens between recordings is checking for focus (x10 zoom), toggling false colors on/off, changing shutter or aperture; or going inside the ML menu.
But I just tried now, and even if I only hit the record button on and off, and nothing else, until it happens, it will happen.

It seems to happen more often when you are close to, or when you hit the red light (Recording Indicator Green, Orange, Red)

So I'd say logging SD Card Access, compression tasks, live view tasks and keystrokes, as certain keys trigger a lot of state changes. I use Kill Global Draw on, so besides the recording counter, nothing else shows up on screen.

I don't know exactly which task triggers the error, as no error log is written when this particular error occurs.

When the error occurs, it lasts about 5 seconds before recording stops. So If I could hit a key as soon as it happens. It could write some sort of flag? This would narrow the search area.

Maybe writing the CPU usage of each task to disk as soon as I hit the key could help zero in on the offending module?

This is Nice! Having every most used menu under the Movie tab again makes making modifications faster.

Also, giving access to the ISO Expo page (And Others) is good news.

Here's why:
On the Eos m, by default, the Wheel is assigned to Shutter and when you hit Right Button, it is momentarily assigned to Aperture.

Because the U/D and L/R buttons are located under the Wheel, if you reach for it and press too hard while turning, you end up triggering one of the buttons. So for me, putting ISO there is a no no, as I often bumped it up to 200-400 inadvertently and only realized 4-5 clips later. So I had to switch to Photo mode to modify it, which was annoying.

Same thing with the touch screen, it is too easy to touch it when you grab the camera and change something. In this build the Presets keep the modifications you make (Changing the bits to 14 for example), so it's not as bad as your former build where you had to dial in everything again whenever you switched presets.

But still, I'd rather put something inconsequential on the touch screen, like false colors; and then use the INFO and SET buttons, which are a lot harder to trigger by mistake, to put ISO access and x10 zoom (Or Aperture + -, which will be a lot more convenient than the wheel when the cam is on the gimbal).

Therefore, if you eventually added false colors to the touch screen menu, it would be a welcome addition.

Also, if doable (I know it may involve pre-populating the SETTINGS folder, which may be an annoyance) Having all the enabled modules showing with the green light, so that the user can unload those if needed, could help with troubleshooting, when people ask questions on the forums.

I 've been benchmarking my cards for the past few days, so I retested my Sandisk Extreme Pro 128 with your custom.
There is a slight penalty of about 5 MB/s when writing to the card. This can be mitigated by switching to 12 bits. With the fast cards, there is enough headroom for this.

[Speed Test: Sandisk Extreme microSDXC UHS-I 256GB]

Speed Test: Sandisk Extreme microSDXC UHS-I 256GB
R160/W90  Ref. Here
(The newer ones are rated R190/W130) Ref. Here

Product Number: SDSQXA1-256G-GN6MN
PNM: SN256
PRV: 8.6
MDT: 2021/12

Highest CropMood speed reached for a 1 minute Clip (Peak Orange): 80.29 MB/s @ 2.8k/12bits (Mostly Consistent)
Highest CropMood speed reached for "Continuous"   (Steady Green): 71.17 MB/s @ 2.8k/14bits
Highest CropMood speed reached for a 15 seconds clip (Red Speed): 82 MB/s @ 2.8k/14bits
240MHz / SDR104

(Item "E" in the picture below)


Card has been formatted in camera (EOS M), moved to a Mac to copy the CropMood files, then back to the camera to make it bootable.





The updated method is outlined here: https://www.magiclantern.fm/forum/index.php?topic=25841.msg245694#msg245694

The card could not handle 2.8k/14bits, but worked well at 2.8k/12bits.
The card was mostly consistent, and did no go into safe mode.

[Speed Test: Sandisk Extreme PRO SDXC UHS-I 128GB]

Speed Test: Sandisk Extreme PRO SDXC UHS-I 128GB
R170/W90
Product Number: SDSSDXXY-128G-GN4IN
MDT: 2021/11

240MHz / SDR104
Highest CropMood speed reached for a 1 minute Clip (Peak Orange):  86.73 MB/s @ 2.8k/14bits. (Reached 87.1 MB/s once)
Highest CropMood speed reached for "Continuous"   (Steady Green): 76.53 MB/s @ 2.8k/14bits
Highest CropMood speed reached for a 15 seconds clip (Red Speed): 83 MB/s @ 2.8k/14bits


(Item "A" in the picture below)


Card has been formatted in camera (EOS M), moved to a Mac to copy the CropMood files, then back to the camera to make it bootable.





The updated method is outlined here: https://www.magiclantern.fm/forum/index.php?topic=25841.msg245694#msg245694

The card is consistent.
I did not get any Safe Mode trigger or corrupted Frames.

After a few tests, I realized that, although the "Frame Order Error" message doesn't result in corrupted clips when it is displayed, in such a case the possible recording length of the clip will be shortened.
Recording another clip right after will work as expected.

If there is a module enabling the logging of everything  available, let me know. I would then be able to zero in on the issue.

so the new way is
1. format the card on pc/mac as a new card.
2. low level format the card in ml camera with 240 mhz sd card overclock module activated.
3. on pc/mac copy the ml files to the sd card.
4. firmware update to make the sd card bootable
5. Reboot the camera at least twice before the first use.
6. reformat the sd card before everytime use it (with 240 mhz sd card overclock module activated)

then it can reach 85mb/s for sandisk extreme pro 256gb.

do i miss anything here? thx. 85 mb/s is a big jump.

Nowhere did I (Or anyone else)  say that this method will make the card work. This method avoids the problems related to card corruption. And based on a whole summer's worth of almost daily shoots, it works.
But In your case, it could be that your card is from a different batch. (See my previous post about the 128GB Extreme Pro)

So the first thing you should do is to try the method yourself.
Use Danne's version of crop mood https://bitbucket.org/Dannephoto/magiclantern_hg_02/downloads/  you won't have to scratch your head or watch the video to make it work.
You copy the files and it's ready to shoot.
(You may have to enable the bench.mo module manually though)
The whole process should take you less than 10 minutes.

Edit: I just realized that you are not using the eos m, so Danne's custom build won't work for now.
You'll need to use bilal's original version. All the info you need to set it up is in the first few posts in this thread: https://www.magiclantern.fm/forum/index.php?topic=26851.msg242974#msg242974

I added : 5. Reboot the camera at least twice before the first use.
Some settings are quite persistent on the Eos M (So maybe it's the same thing for the 650D). And for some reason, the new settings don't always get transferred to the cam's non-volatile memory on the first try.  (Maybe someone who knows why that is could chime in??)

Also, after the low-level format, you'll see the light flashing for a few seconds. You should wait for it to stop flashing before going further.

There's only one way to find out!
But maybe you could post your card's CID, along with those who reported the same issue, so we can see if those cards are like mine. Prior to the latest Overclock module, I had two Extreme Pro 128's, and only one of those worked.

There is something else I don't have a way to test, but maybe some cards draw more current than others? I use a Dummy Battery and power Bank which outputs  2A @ 9V, 22.5W.
Have you tried with the original Canon battery with a full charge?

Some (fairly reliable) people have also reported low-level format in cam restoring a slow card back to fast.  Possibly, this is better if done at the overclock you intend to run the card at.  I'm not convinced by that last part, but it might be worth testing.  The low-level format restoring a slow card I've seen multiple people report good results with.

I'm not sure why a low-level format should help.  Possibly, because writing to erased blocks is fast, but erasing blocks is slow?  If the drive controller knows which blocks are erased, this might avoid the need for erases during recording.

I don't know about the magnitude of the speed gain when the blocks are pre-erased (format), but I know this:
Each time you insert the card in a different system, the file system is modified. The Mac writes a bunch of invisible dot files, Android writes extra folders both visible and invisible, etc.

After enough going back and forth (You need to transfer the files to your Mac or PC), the FAT gets corrupted (well, modified differently by a different OS, especially if you use the computer to erase the files)  and you slowly begin to get errors and corruptions, until the card needs a complete re-format and re-copying of all the files.

Ever since I started to Low-Level format before each recording session (There is a option to keep the ML files on the card. I don't know how they did it, but it works) I stopped having those kinds of problems. This is anecdotal of course, but I recorded about  7 TB over the course of the summer, most of it on the same 256GB card. So I guess this is a large enough sample.

"then back to the camera to make it bootable."

how can you make sd card bootable in camera?

Once you copied the ML files to the card, You put it in the camera and do a firmware update (It won't do a firmware update, but it will make the card boot to ML)
You follow the instructions and restart when asked.

[Speed Test: Sandisk Extreme PRO SDXC UHS-I 256GB]

Speed Test: Sandisk Extreme PRO SDXC UHS-I 256GB
R200/W140
Product Number: SDSSDXXD-256G-GN4IN
MDT: 2022/06

240MHz / SDR104
Highest CropMood speed reached for a 1 minute Clip (Peak Orange):  86.08 MB/s @ 2.8k/14bits. (Inconsistent)
Highest CropMood speed reached for a 2 minutes Clip (Peak Orange): 85.42 MB/s @ 2.8k/14bits  (Inconsistent)
                                                                                                     83.57 MB/S @ 2.8k/14bits (Consistent)
Highest CropMood speed reached for "Continuous"    (Steady Green): 77.74 MB/s @ 2.8k/14bits
Highest CropMood speed reached for a 15 seconds clip (Red Speed): 88.6 MB/s @ 2.8k/14bits

240MHz / SDR50
Highest CropMood speed reached for a 2 minutes Clip: 83.72 MB/s @ 2.8k/14bits  (Consistent)

(Item "B" in the picture below)


Card has been formatted in camera (EOS M), moved to a Mac to copy the CropMood files, then back to the camera to make it bootable.





The updated method is outlined here: https://www.magiclantern.fm/forum/index.php?topic=25841.msg245694#msg245694

The card is mostly consistent (Succeeded at 1 data rate but then failed at the same data rate in another take, at around 85 MB/s.)
The Card was consistent at a  slightly lower data rate (83 MB/s). See Picture.
I don't think the 2 MB/s difference is relevant as it could be related to the camera (In line with the other cards tested, and I did a lot more passes this time)

I did not get any Safe Mode trigger or corrupted Frames.
The Max consistent speed is the same, whether in SDR 104 or SDR 50 mode.

I'll eventually post all of those, but will test the one you care about a little harder...

Sure, which one?
I have Sandisk Extreme Pro 256GB 200/140 SD and Sandisk Extreme Plus 256GB 200/140 Micro SD

[Speed Test: Sandisk Extreme PLUS microSDXC UHS-I 256GB]

Speed Test: Sandisk Extreme PLUS microSDXC UHS-I 256GB
R200/W140
Product Number: SDSQXBD-256G-CN6MA
MDT: 2023/09

Highest CropMood speed reached for a 1 minute Clip (Peak Orange): 83.16 MB/s @ 2.8k/12bits -OR- 83.85 MB/s @ 2.5k/14bits
Highest CropMood speed reached for "Continuous"   (Steady Green): 76.68 MB/s @ 2.8k/14bits
Highest CropMood speed reached for a 15 seconds clip (Red Speed): 87 MB/s @ 2.8k/14bits
240MHz / SDR104

(Item "D" in the picture below)


Card has been formatted in camera (EOS M), moved to a Mac to copy the CropMood files, then back to the camera to make it bootable.





The updated method is outlined here: https://www.magiclantern.fm/forum/index.php?topic=25841.msg245694#msg245694

The card could not handle 2.8k/14bits unless the image was quite underexposed and would not reach 1 minute,
but worked well at 2.8k/12bits.
This card was consistent, but went into safe mode when pushed in the red region.

[Speed Test: Sandisk Extreme PLUS microSDXC UHS-I 128GB]

Speed Test: Sandisk Extreme PLUS microSDXC UHS-I 128GB
R200/W90
Product Number: SDSQXBD-128G-CN6MA
MDT: 2023/06

Highest CropMood speed reached for a 1 minute Clip (Peak Orange): 79.41 MB/s @ 2.8k/12bits
Highest CropMood speed reached for "Continuous"   (Steady Green): 72.61 MB/s @ 2.8k/14bits
Highest CropMood speed reached for a 15 seconds clip (Red Speed): 83 MB/s @ 2.8k/14bits
240MHz / SDR104

(Item "C" in the picture below)


Card has been formatted in camera (EOS M), moved to a Mac to copy the CropMood files, then back to the camera to make it bootable.





The updated method is outlined here: https://www.magiclantern.fm/forum/index.php?topic=25841.msg245694#msg245694

The card could not handle 2.8k/14bits unless the image was quite underexposed and would not reach 1 minute,
but worked well at 2.8k/12bits.
This card did not exhibit any problems and was consistent.

Thanks! Added to chart.

You know you can edit ML wiki and add card info?

I didn't! I will have a look once I am done with the other cards on the picture. Thanks.

[Speed Test: Lexar SILVER Series 1066x microSDXC UHS-I 256GB]

Speed Test: Lexar SILVER Series 1066x microSDXC UHS-I 256GB
R160/W120
Product Number: LMS1066256G-BNANU
MDT: 2023/07

Highest CropMood speed reached for a 1 minute Clip (Peak Orange): 88.12 MB/s @ 2.8k/14bits
Highest CropMood speed reached for "Continuous"   (Steady Green): 77.88 MB/s @ 2.8k/14bits
Highest CropMood speed reached for a 15 seconds clip (Red Speed): 90.8 MB/s @ 2.8k/14bits
240MHz / SDR104

(Item "F" in the picture below)


Card has been formatted in camera (EOS M), moved to a Mac to copy the CropMood files, then back to the camera to make it bootable.





The method is outlined here: https://www.magiclantern.fm/forum/index.php?topic=25841.msg245694#msg245694

I recorded more clips this time, to hopefully expose any Thermal Throttling or Burst Speed Wizardry implemented by the manufacturer. I recorded about 10 clips of various lengths (Light orange / red) prior to beginning the test (Not in the picture, to save on transfer time)

This card did not exhibit any problems and was consistent.

Thanks! Will try to reproduce ASAP and will esp. retest with my Samsung Pro Plus 128 GB (2021 edition)

Questions/Remarks:
Samsung Pro Plus in blue exists in 2 different varieties: 2021 and 2023 edition. You will find a couple of strings on card's backside. "MB-MD128K" or "MB-MD128S". Which one are we talking about here?
MB-MD128S

I tested EVO Plus 128 GB (2021 edition) and it failed @240 MHz and it is marked as failed in linked chart.
Just out of curiosity: Can you post a pic of card's back? (Can't connect anything atm, so:)

MB-MD128K (with a little checkmark after)
MBMCDGVGDBCW-CW-5
KPVK119T2317

Made in Phillipines

EDIT2: Any luck with "Sandisk Extreme Pro 95 MB/s"? It worked perfectly with older oc modules but my specimen fails with new one in 650D. And because of mechanical issues it can't be used in my M.
I don't have that card, but will let you know when I find one. I am also curious about the Lexar x1667 UHS-II. If someone who owns one wants to chime in...

Answers in red in the quote above.
I will add the other cards specs as I get to properly test those.

EDIT: @Walter, when you test the EvoPlus128GB, try recording the first take for 5 minutes. Yesterday, the card seemed fine at  first. I suspect there is some kind of thermal throttling going on...

[Why Benchmarks are not enough.]

Why Benchmarks are not enough.

I saw a few posts on the fb ML group, people reporting problems recording with certain cards.
Hopefully, the following will help a little.

Let's take those 3 cards:

Samsung Pro Plus 128GB (MDT:2023/05) - item "G" in the picture below
Samsung Evo Plus 128GB (MDT:2023/04) -  item "H" in the picture below
Sandisk Extreme Pro 256GB (MDT:2022/06) - item "B" in the picture below



Looking at the individual benchmarks:
(240 MHz / SDR104)

Samsung Pro Plus 128GB (MDT:2023/05)


Samsung Evo Plus 128GB (MDT:2023/04)


Sandisk Extreme Pro 256GB (MDT:2022/06)


Now, let's see how those benchmarks compare to real world results.

Edit: I found out that some cards seem to have some kind of built-in thermal management. After recording for a while, those cards enter into safe mode and stop recording until you restart the cam. The harder you push it (Data Rate wise), the sooner the problem appears.
So, it would be advisable to record a few clips (About 5-10, more details later) where the recording light alternates between orange and red before testing. This would warm up the card and hopefully expose the problem sooner, if present...

Edit 2: I also benchmarked the cards to get a "Continuous" Green value (Those numbers are included in the posts where I test individual cards)

Updated Method: (Open the aperture to the maximum and use the slowest shutter speed available. Set "Kill Global Draw" to ON on the Camera.)

I recorded the Test Chart linked at the end of the post on a monitor at 2.8k, 2.39:1 AR, 23.976fps; and used a variable ND filter on a bright lens (ef-m 32mm f1.4).
You may need an aperture of at least f2.8, because the Monitor may not be bright enough to yield high Data Rates.
Focus slightly off-focus until all the moiré on screen disappears (Moiré and pixels will make the compressor work unnaturally hard).

1)  Max Orange Speed

First record slightly overexposed at 14bits, and then slowly close the ND filter in small increments, and record again until the camera manages to record continuously for 1 minute.
This is usually the point where the light is orange and briefly turns red once and a while.
If it can't reach the 1 minute mark, and you closed the ND filter to the point where the image is too dark to be useful, lower the bit depth to 12bits and try again.

Once it reaches 1 minute for 2-3 recordings, Open the ND filter in tiny increments, record, and repeat  until it can't reach the 1 minute mark anymore.

And finally close the ND filter in small increments again, and repeat until the camera records for 1 minute.

Record a few clips. If those all record 1 minute or more, this is the speed for "Maximum Orange" (Max. Speed).

2) Max Green Speed ("Continuous")

First record slightly overexposed at 14bits, and then slowly close the ND filter until you get a steady Green light.
You will need to do several recordings in a row to get to the highest possible Green point. You may get Green, and still get Orange on the next recording.

After pressing Record, The light must become Green before or at second 2 onwards. If you still see Red or Orange at second 2, you're still too high.

Once you get 3 consecutive recordings where you get Green at, or before second 2, and it stays that way for 1 minute; you've got it. This is the speed for "Maximum Green" ("Continuous").

3)  Max Red Speed (This is to check a card's resiliency to sudden changes in Data Rates)

First record slightly overexposed at 14bits, and then slowly close the ND filter in small increments, and record again until the camera manages to stop recording by itself after about 15 seconds.

With some cards, it is very hard to get repeatable results because we are at the card's upper limit, and that's what we are trying to find out.

Record a few clips. Once you reach a point where it always stops by itself around the same number of seconds, (On some cards, that point was between 15 and 18 seconds);
take the lowest MB/s number (Or the most frequent) and this is the speed for "Maximum Red" (Peak Speed).

This test chart generates files about 5 MB/s faster than the most I usually get when shooting outdoors on a bright day, with similar histogram / false colors values
(I usually expose with histogram between 1.1 and 0.8, some red, but nothing showing black on false colors).
I chose 2.8k/14, as running a single test gives you an idea of what you'd get at 3k 1:1/11; 5.2k 3x1/11; 4.8k 3x1/12; and everything below at 14bits.

Samsung Pro Plus 128GB (MDT:2023/05)


This card is not stable at 240MHz. In order to get the results above, I had to restart the camera after each take! Trying to record twice in a row results in the camera going into safe mode (The 240MHz in the Overclocking section of the camera becomes dim) A camera restart is required to go back to 240MHz. When overclock is at 192MHz, the card behaves normally, but at slower speeds. One of the reasons why it is important to do more than 1 recording!

Samsung Evo Plus 128GB (MDT:2023/04)


This card would not record more than a few seconds at 2.8k, even when severely underexposed.
It managed to record 2.5k at 62 MB/s (True to benchmark).

Sandisk Extreme Pro 256GB (MDT:2022/06)


Although this card had a lower number than the Pro Plus in the benchmarks, it gave the best performance at 86 MB/s without any throttling.

When looking at the Data Rate Graph on a PC (Not included here), some cards have momentary dropouts (and even Bursts) of up to 20 MB/s! The card with the highest sustained speed / fewer (or Shallower) dropouts wins.

Now, although this has been said before, it's always nice to have everything in the same place:
Why does the camera stops recording "Sometimes"?

Excluding camera related hiccups, because we're recording in Lossless, Scene complexity and exposure have an effect on Data Rate; and so does scene composition!
A closeup with a big blurry background has a significantly lower Data Rate than a landscape where everything is in focus.
Any change in brightness (Shiny object crossing the frame), complexity (tree branches) or change of focus while recording can change the Data Rate and put it above the Maximum the Cam / Card can handle.

If you look at the examples below, every take was recorded outside on the same day, within about 1.5 hour. The Data Rates are all over the place. When you see 14bits followed by a 12bits take, it's because I had to lower the bitrate to be able to record the exact same scene.




You can also find more examples in a previous post: https://www.magiclantern.fm/forum/index.php?topic=25781.msg240610#msg240610

If you want to test a card with the chart I used, here it is:

EDIT: One thing to keep in mind is that, because I were looking for the absolute peak data rate I could get for 1 minute, framing isn't too important. But depending how close or far you are from the screen, the same data rate will be achieved with more and less exposure respectively, as when you are further away (Up to a point) the details become smaller and are harder to compress (But when you are closer, you get more brightness from the screen so...!). If someone were to compare data rates across presets, framing would need to be identical and exposures would need to be matched...

Tested on Eos m, with magiclantern-crop_mood.2023Aug19.EOSM202.zip, Small Hacks set to more, Camera in af mode.

The official 240Mhz Overclock cards compatibility page: https://wiki.magiclantern.fm/cards_240mhz

Posted another build. Better Focus aid, closer to subject. Still needs better centering but works pretty well while filming with 1x3 and 1x1 presets.
https://bitbucket.org/Dannephoto/magiclantern_hg_02/commits/752c78080de8505f2943deb9dd9f7d2ca83dfc26

Download:
https://bitbucket.org/Dannephoto/magiclantern_hg_02/downloads/

I tested magiclantern-crop_mood_Danne.2024Jan01.EOSM202.zip and magiclantern-crop_mood_Danne.2024Dec31.EOSM202.zip

Both builds tested with small hacks set to More, and kill global draw set to On
BrightenLVmethod set to AeWb, because it didn't change AF accuracy when set to EVF.
Resolutions at 2.39:1 ratios and 23.976 fps.

Dec31:
When assigned to half-shutter, Focus Aid works while Idle and While recording;
Focus aid needs (as you already pointed out) better centering as it is too far off center to check if AF was accurate. Even if using MF, the aim difference is significant enough to make a difference at wide apertures;
Got 1 clip out of 10 with a corrupted first frame.

Jan01:
When assigned to half-shutter, Focus Aid doesn't work while Idle (maybe that was intentional). While recording, it is distorted (stretched) at 1:1 crop modes, and showing as expected at 1x3 modes;
Focus aid needs centering;
No corrupted clips.

Both builds:

You need 12 bits minimum for  AF to work correctly. I read that Bilal adressed the issue, but I don't know if the fixes were included in his last posted build, or if it only works when small hacks are off.

2.5K:
AF works very well, rarely misses (even at f1.4) and doesn't affect recording times, even at 14 bits.

2.8K and 1x3 modes:
AF makes the recording status turn orange or red while the half shutter is pressed. If you hold it for too long, recording stops;
ef-m lenses are quick enough (tried ef-m 32 and ef-m 28mm), but I also tried an ef-s 15-85mm and AF lock often took long enough to halt recording;
You need an unobstructed line of sight to get accurate AF. It misses often, especially when several objects are close to one another or if some objects are close to the camera, while the background is far away. Works better at smaller apertures. None of those issues at 2.5K.

One has to be careful not to push the shutter button too far. If done while recording, the camera hangs on a "Busy" message and needs to be restarted (Battery Pull).

The scene needs to be properly exposed for AF to work well. So, resolution / bitrate combos where you need to underexpose should be avoided.

Also happens in Bilal's original build:
When in 2.8k, the aspect ratio in Crop mood always shows 2.35:1 (and always shows 2.33:1 when in 2.5k), regardless of the setting there, or in RAW video menu. One has to check the resolution displayed next to RAW video to make sure.

I also noticed that the Screenshot feature doesn't work anymore.

what is the different between crop_mood.2023Aug19 and crop_mood.2023May09?

Some answers here: https://www.magiclantern.fm/forum/index.php?topic=26851.msg244733#msg244733

p.s. It would be nice to group all the releases under a single post near the top of the thread. Once the thread becomes as large as Danne's, it will be very tedious to refresh our memories!