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Does the EOSM Blue make any difference ? I see everyone else uses Red or Black or Silver and all get excellent results

Nah, they are just aesthetic case choices, in my opinion. You probably see everyone uses black, red, and silver because they are the most common. The blue ones are harder to find, though and sometimes more expensive for that reason. There is black, blue, silver, red, white, and pink. I like the blue one because of how it looks so I bought five of them. It took many months to find them all in very good condition for a decent price. My second favorite look is the black and third favorite is probably silver. Either way, it doesn't matter what color you have.

I did a test the other day in 1080 raw and got 38 minutes with a 64gb card. That was in 2.39:1, though.

Thats Awesome. You never say no to any request. Keep up the hardwork you are doing for this camera

Then I humbly request 10-Bit H264 with FPS Override, Shutter Range, and Shutter Fine Tuning Support. For when you need to record for 10 hours on multiple cameras. I'm joking, btw. I don't believe that is even possible.

Is there a way to change the word "Immortal"? I have 5 EOS M cameras and would like to label them.

Since I often shoot 2-hour jazz concerts (usually with three EOS-M cameras, one of them with a C-mount zoom), there would be massive raw files to convert before editing, so I was hoping for something more direct...

You are only shooting 2 hours with 3 EOS M cameras. I would be using raw your case, where as I shoot with 4 cameras for 8 to 10 hours and that is when raw is too much data. In your case all you need is three 256gb SanDisk Extreme Pro cards, which will fill about 204GB on each card give or take, for 1080p Raw at 2 hours. Not bad at all. You are lucky. I wish I could use raw in my case. Run a test in raw and see how long you get until your card runs out, then do the calculations. It should be under 256gb for 2 hours @ 1080p.

[New test build:]

Just overwriting files may cause unwanted side effects if there are incompatible settings or outdated modules. Better (as IDA_ML wrote) just rename/delete autoexec.bin and ML directory and copy extracted build contents to card. Overwriting ML-SETUP.FIR is optional, code hasn't changed for quite some time.

Alright, thank you.

I simply delete the old files and copy the new ones directly from the ZIP archive into the root directory of the card.  Then I just activate the modules and adjust the settings that I need and that's it.  Never had a problem with this type of update.

Thank you also.

New test build:
https://bitbucket.org/Dannephoto/magic-lantern_jip_hop_git/downloads/crop_rec_4k_mlv_snd_raw_only_2020Oct04.EOSM202_frtp.zip

Adresses 5K anamorphic frtp preset:

- Zooming with halfshutter while recording possible. While recording simply hald halfshutter for a zoom helping to nail focus easier while recording. Release button to get back to real time preview.

- This preset will work with HDMI out with correct real time preview. Didn´t test for corruption but seems stable on 700D. Zoom help disabled when in HDMI out.

- Fix for halfshutter causing cropmarks to disable and not come back. Should work now.

Bleeding edge tet build. Please report what works and if having issues. I look into it when I can.

Thanks for the update, Danne!

Stupid question but how do I update Magic Lantern, do I just copy over the new files to the SD Card and overwrite? Or do I have to do more than that? I'd rather not uninstall and reinstall if unnecessary. Thanks.

Could you clarify what "drop-out" means to be exact?

Indeed, both black 95MBs & 170MBs have been remarkable thus far @Kgncom!

I don't think there is a difference other than the label.

Are you sure M2 doesn't use file chunking? Because it would be the only Digic 5 cam doing so.
Digic 4 code stops if record size reaches 4 GB.
The Digic 5 cams I know will always do file chunking. Regardless if card has Exfat file system or not.

I don't know man. I just know I can record one big H264 file on the M2 with ML, but I can't seem to do it on the M. I have recorded video on the M2 a few times now and let it go until the SD Card ran out and it was one big file for H264. Both cameras I used a card with exFat.

Anyone know how to disable H264 MOV files from splitting up into 4GB files? It doesn't do it on the M2 but I can't seem to get the M to keep it in one big file. Its very important for my ongoing project because I will have way too many files between 4 cameras. Thanks

As much as I love the M2 for better low light, wifi photo transfer, etc. The M with ML right now is the better choice! Good luck!

I think the main reason there was never much interest is because they are Japanese exclusive cameras, which makes them less common. Even though they are technically a little better than the EOS M.

I think I just misunderstood what was updated, but yea there is a lot of issues on M2 other than mv1080 raw. I think I'll just probably replace the cameras with M versions and keep one M2.

I know, It´s mainly my branch in there. Well, dfort and of course a1ex started it out and layed out the ground work. mv1080p is working because delimed to default raw buffer. True 24fps, what does it even mean. Anyway. You can tweak and modify anything on the eosm.

It just means actual 24 frames per second, instead of 23.976 (23.98) broadcast framerate. Mostly used in movies and cinema DCP packages. Yeah, I might replace two of my M2s with M models just to have more options on more cameras.

Practically nothing works for the eosm2. Default raw buffer, no raw_slurp due to freezes.
Most stuff works with eosm.

lol... well, you can at least get it to do raw mv1080 and true 24fps stable continuous. With the merged build at least.

You can set fps override to 34 fps for h.264, seems max.
You could also enable 46 fps 2.39:1 with hfs mode and then turn off raw video. You will get a nice h.264 file but needs stretching in post. Whn doing this see to it that canon menu is set to 50 or 60fps. In this mode I think you can even do fps override to 50fps.

I only tried on the M2 since my M doesn't arrive until tomorrow... FPS override didn't work at all on M2 with H264. I dont think aspect ratio settings work either. I was just wanting true 24p instead of 23.976 to match my main cameras. I'll mess around with the M tomorrow to see if anything works.

Not interested. If possible it would already have been done.

Oh, alright. I assummed it wasn't done because nobody cared for h264 but one of the uses I have for these is to record 8 hours straight. Not really practical at all with RAW for 1TB SD card costs and file sizes. Thanks for the response.

@Danne - Do you think I can donate a little money for you to enable 10-Bit+ and Framerate Override for .H264 on EOS M and M2, whenever you have time? Thank you.

Awesome Critix, thanks a lot

@Zeek: You think you can merge with the more stable merged build if needed?

Anyone know if its possible to record in H264 but with the framerate override option so I can still get the true 24p? I can't seem to figure it out but not sure which options I should enable/disable. The reason I need H264 instead of raw is that I got 4 of these cameras that will be on tripods recording for 8 hours straight. If its raw that would be 1tb of data for each, requiring a $400 1TB SD Card for each. Thanks in advance.

Hallo zeek, i have m2 finally, and i have tried "M2 build from Danne and DForts M2Builds" but the result is my camera stuck after taking photo , and cannot record the video. I used SANDISK SDCARD EXTREME PRO 64GB 170MB S CLASS 10 SD CARD EXTREME PRO 64 GB 170 MBPS CLASS10. I have followed all your youtube tutorial regarding this M2 hack. thanks for your answer sir .

Set camera to video mode, go into Magic Lantern Movie tab and turn off Crop Mode and Raw Video. Then you can switch to photo mode and should be able to take photos.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jdbsgCFvWo0

I really like the look of that lens flare on that lens.

Google Drive shouldn't convert anything.

Yeah, I was just trying to use an image service without a bandwidth limit, but Google Photos probably has one anyway. I switched them to Google Drive download links.

I made a some cropmarks for the pixel shift that happens with vertical and horizontal live view compared to actual framing to compensate if anyone wants to test. Can't really do much about the horizontal pixel shift but it is good enough fixing the vertical since that shifts much more. This was only tested for 2.35:1 aspect ratio, mv1080_rewire, and 1736x738 on the EOS M2. I did not test other settings or cameras. Let me know if it needs adjusted at all. I couldn't figure out how to compress the .bmp for smaller file size from the instructions I found, but I'll give it another go in the near future. The first image has solid black bars, while the second has transparent bars. If you film in those settings with the M2, you shouldn't have to check your framing using these since it will match what you see on live view, for the most part.

https://drive.google.com/open?id=1tjSMb4GnqrPNQ_abCetMsANU9AI2XXft

https://drive.google.com/open?id=1TXkRFLRbXAz_e6IJeSIvNV5B_1WmGKfB

To get 1/48 Shutter, set the Canon Menu to "1920x1080 > 30 FPS"... and the Magic Lantern Menu to "FPS Override > 24 (from 30) > Exact FPS". mv1080p_rewired Crop Mode and Raw Video 1736x738.

I am having a problem getting proper framing from live view as everything seems shifted down vertically when watching the recorded video compared to what was seen on the live view screen. It seems much worse especially when you use a 2.35:1 aspect ratio with crop marks cause you cant get the framing right without using the "Framing" option for Live View, but that is way too slow to use the camera like this I think. Is there anything else I can do? Thanks

I would like to request that whenever someone has the time if they could please port 2.5K Raw to the EOS M2. Thanks a lot!