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Messages - Skinny

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By the way, it is possible to do it from the opposite side - change your retro computer frequency to match the camera fps.. It can be done by feeding the external clock from any oscillator (diy osc or special chip). At least, slight under/overclocking should work fine.. But fps override in ML is probably much easier/faster

General Help Q&A / Re: FRSP makes heavily overexposed areas black
« on: August 08, 2022, 08:59:21 PM »
I always get pink sun in my footage, and it is easy to mask out... create a layer filled with color (just use color picker and sample the brightest area near the sun), then add mask (slightly bigger) to this new layer and feather it a little. Done.
I don't even track the mask sometimes when there is not a lot of motion. But you can track it with auto tracking, it won't take much time. It is just one object with fixed size and precise position doesn't really matter, so you can loosely track it and it will be ok.

It would be cool if some day MLV App will be upgraded with black sun detection/replacing with surrounding color..

Is there a way to somehow export dng sequence and then use cr2hdr to process it, then import the sequence in MLV App back again?

I read some articles, and 16 pulses are not 100% requirement. as well as precise timings.
So the pulses at 32 kHz is actually the way IR reciever works, it has bandpass filter inside and it is tuned somewhere around 32k. For example in TVs they sometimes have frequencies close to 38 kHz if I remember correctly..
And once you pulse your ~32kHz, the reciever will output a steady 5v (or maybe 3.3v). It doesn't care if there are 16 pulses or slightly less/more.. there is no counter or anything.

The camera itself has some timing tolerances. So you can use any frequency close to 32kHz and send any amount of pulses for ~500us, then wait ~5,8ms and send pulses again.

If no counter and precise timings required, I can make the whole circuit using just simple analog components :D
Why? just because it can be done ;) I like microcontrollers but here it looks a bit like overkill.. it is just more interesting to do it analog way sometimes.
Here in the comments someone made his version using just 4093 NAND chip, but I don't really like two switches and 6v batteries. So now I have to design my own version from components that I have around.

Ok thanks! This article has some useful links as well as exact timing signals from the actual rc-1.. seems like everything is just running from 32.768kHz clock (standard quartz resonator frequency) and I think I can make it even without microcontroller. Just a simple timer/counter IC and maybe a transistor or two could be enough.. I have to think about it though.

Cool, so if you just blink 16 times with 16us delays, then wait 5360us and do blinks again - it is Canon remote control code and you can start and stop video recording?

I actually want to make a remote for video start-stop, so thanks for this thread..

By the way on usual arduino you probably shouldn't use digitalWrite because it is very slow, if we are talking about microseconds.. direct port manipulation is much better... but maybe your Raspberry Pi Pico is fast enough.

Raw Video / Re: Canon 60D RAW Video
« on: July 07, 2022, 08:21:15 AM »
It's just an old information.. this is what you will get with 650D or 700D:
And Bilal is also working on 100D, I wonder if 100D have less sensor noise than 650D

What about 5D3? it is full-frame camera so no 1.6x "magnification" but it will probably have much lower noise with high iso..

Could you please try this?
Thanks, it works! You guys are awesome!
I had to copy libgomp-1.dll from 1.14 Win32 version, because it is not included in the archive. And it opens up. I also copied ffmpeg and some other stuff, exported some MLV footage and everything seems to work perfectly :)

By the way I can instantly see benefits of AgX function - just opened some random mlv file, it was a test clip shot from my window (crappy and noisy) but it has red "Hotel" sign (LED) and it looks much better with AgX enabled.

Love bright colours. BTW, even in those examples, they aren't handled perfectly.
I know :D I can see it too now :)

My goal is to create digital image processing that handles bright colours smoothly. It's possible. Film does it. It's what I've been working towards for the past two years.
I agree, this is really great. Keep us updated :) I think everyone wants to have "film-like" colors.

yes it's core 2 duo.

You could try dual booting 64 bit linux
do you know any protable linux version that I can just copy on the thumb drive and boot from it, instead of installing? for testing.

It could be SSE issue. What's interesting is that I haven't found any other program that won't run on this machine. Although I don't use a lot of applications.

Very pink, wow. Even new MLV App is having trouble.
By the way, it is not LED, it is just a standard white flash light with color filter on it. And it is not even that much as it can be sometimes.. for fashion photos it is normal to have very saturated colors sometimes. For example:

Share Your Videos / Re: Canon 100d 4.5K RAW video
« on: July 06, 2022, 06:47:25 AM »
Very nice, we see Bilal's work in action now :) I think cameras like 100d could become a very popular choice for RAW video now..

no message or anything, but I found under windows event viewer two types of errors - with code 1000 and 1005.
both of them doesn't explain much.. but there is an exception code.

1000 - "Faulting application: MLVApp.exe, version:"
Exception code: 0xc000001d

1005 - "Windows cannot access the file for one of the following reasons: there is a problem with the network connection, the disk that the file is stored on, or the storage drivers installed on this computer; or the disk is missing."
There is no information about what file it is or anything.
Application name: "Processing and converting tool for MLV files"

Finally, MLVApp v1.14 is out now. Thanks to all the contributors and testers.

so, I'm using Windows 10 21H2 x64, and the processor is Intel(R) Core(TM)2 CPU 4400 @ 2.00GHz

Why 32 bit MLV App - because 1.12 32 bit is working here, but 64 is not. 1.13 doesn't work at all (as well as 1.14)

Are you able to try compiling MLV App?
I think I need to try it.. And maybe if I can use older QT version it will work?

And yes, I would love to see any difficult photos please.
ok, here are some files:

In the archive you will find cr2 as well as processed jpeg files (just for reference). The problem is this purple light, which is a light source, so it should be brighter and not just dark purple color..
Photoshop camera raw profiles render it differently. Default Adobe profile is obviously worse, while "faithful" seems to be the most correct.. And not "neutral" as I was expecting.

But even then it still have some problems. For example if you look at 3384, in the center you will see a very saturated region on the hand/fingers which looks obviously kind of wrong..
As well as other problems, some photos looks better than the others. And sometimes it becomes very visible when photos are processed, for example if you add some contrast and change levels, gradients from these saturated regions become not as smooth as they should be, it can be really noticeable on the face for example. We can instantly tell if something wrong with person's face/skintones.

It's Rezeda's photos, and (fun fact) you subscribed to her youtube about a week ago...  :o :D I know she tried different things and at the end processed them with two different camera raw profiles, one for the overall look, and maybe "faithful" or "neutral" for the purple part of photos only. So obviously these saturated colors can be a little bit hard to work with..

Raw Video / Re: Canon 60D RAW Video
« on: July 05, 2022, 02:41:48 PM »
if you have crop_rec module for 60D, use it.
try usual 24 or 30fps 1080p in canon menu, you don't need to change it.
then press zoom x5 and check if you have good resolution in crop mode, you should be able to record more than full-hd resolution (around 2,5k) and it will be cropped from the center of the frame, 1:1 pixels.

so obviously such high resolution is a lot of mb/s, go to FPS override, and lower the fps (select lo-light setting there). somewhere around 3-4 fps you will be able to record continuous with 21mb/s.
then go to expo tab, select "exposure override" and now you can use very long exposures, up to the frame rate (1/3 second or what you selected).

then you will end up with MLV files on SD card, use MLV App to develop them or to export them as dng files to use in another program.

p.s. when using fps override at slow settings the UI will become also very slow, so it is easier to set other parameters (as well as focusing) before enabling it. And when you go to low fps - picture becomes brigther because now you use long exposures, so you can probably drop the ISO to 100, so less noise.

you can also make a dark frame with MLV App and apply it there.

@ilia3101 Thanks, unfortunately I can't test it because builds after 1.12 (32-bit) don't work on my PC... it's from 2007. I can ask for cr2 if you want to check it out yourself and compare to Adobe or other software..

Major improvement to saturated colour handling coming in next release 8)

(You can all thank @troy_s on twitter for the idea, so simpe yet effective!)
wow, this looks great! I wonder how it will behave on skintones with saturated color lighting, because this problem exist even with standard cr2 files opened in photoshop sometimes..

General Help Q&A / Re: HDMI Out Mirroring on a 550D/600D?
« on: June 30, 2022, 10:04:39 AM »
By the way, what HDMI transmitter are you using? And do you get 1080i output from your cameras with it, or it is only 480? (you can check it with force vga option)

General Help Q&A / Re: Mixing table on MIC input ?
« on: June 29, 2022, 10:55:35 AM »
There shouldn't be any problem, I used 550D with pro audio equipment many times. Surprisingly, it can handle line levels, at least consumer -10dBu standard level. Sound engineer will probably give you a stereo cable from -10dBu output of a mixer, you can record stereo and not just r+l.

Make sure you *disabled* mic power and selected "external stereo" on the audio page. Set analog gain to 0db, turn off any digital gain or AGC. And before recording, check these settings again because sometimes they can reset on 550D, I don't know why.

Stay away from clipping obviously, even from yellow indicators on your camera. yellow means there is too little headroom if something goes even slightly louder.
And if the level will be too high for some reason - ask for the headphone output where the volume could be set lower..

But in order to clip 550D connected to -10dBu output the mixer should run at yellow zone (close to zero or +3 +6) on it's meters, which probably won't happen. In real life I usually see sound guys use levels way low than too high.

p.s. 10k is relatively low impedance, it is somewhat standart impedance for modern consumer line-level audio inputs.. it's absolutely ok. lower than 10k could be a problem sometimes with old equipment, old consumer stuff was designed for even ~50k or so.
and 550D's pres... they may be not that great, but when you set analog gain to zero it is not that important. Because even cheap op-amps at unity gain usually perform relatively well for typical audio needs..

By the way, I think Canon engineers actually designed the audio curcuit around -10dBu standart but never gave us a way to disable stuff like additional gain and AGC.
I can check actual levels (with sine wave and multimeter) 550D and 5D2 can handle, and whether it is close to the standard or not. It feels like that, although I never checked.

Share Your Videos / Re: Canon 6d 5.5k Magic Lantern raw video
« on: June 28, 2022, 01:57:17 PM »
wow, 5,5k... is it 24 fps or less?

and what do you think about 35mm f2.0 IS? do you like it?

I tried the trick of putting the dummy battery to charge for a while (connected to the big external battery). This indeed makes the camera work and reports that the battery is not empty.
maybe this sequence can be recreated at start..

if you put a capacitor (like 1000 uf or more) inside the battery, instead of original li-ion cells... and then apply 8.2v to the battery, like it is charging. The battery should "think" that it's charged. Wait a second and then apply + 8.2v to the camera to start the camera and communicate with "freshly charged" battery..

and as soon as you do that, the circuitry in the battery refuses to deliver energy until you put it to charge
The battery should have a switch (a mosfet probably, on "-" side) that cuts power so the camera doesn't start... And if you short it (a wire from "-" input to "-" output on pcb), it won't be something bad, you just loose the protection. At least in theory. But maybe the camera could start then, and can communicate with the battery.. Do this carefully, and if possible use some over-current protection like a fuse at least..

And this issue with reporting wrong charge level - probably because you have real canon battery.. some cheap noname batteries could behave differently, if you can find one.

If you won't find a solution, you can probably use small PCB from Canon battery that you disassembled, just wire 7.4v to the contacts where original batteries were connected and see if it will work. I recently made a dummy adapter like that, and it works... But it doesn't output the voltage (some protection from over-discharged battery?) unless I connect it to a charger for a second, then it works ok.
And if your voltage is always there, it should work like that forever.

There is also third contact to the middle of cells, I don't know if it will work without it or not, and maybe you can trick it with 2 resistors to + and -. Or by connecting to the 3.7-4.2v if you have this voltage somewhere.

Maybe adding a diode (si or schottky?) from the battery to the output will help to start it without a charger, I don't know, I should probably google this and original battery PCB schematic.

@SebastianC thank you :)

Reverse Engineering / Re: UHS-I / SD cards investigation
« on: June 20, 2022, 09:53:52 AM »
I used to run 550D at 60 degrees or even more for hours.. for timelapses in video mode with slow fps. Red thermometer sign was there, but camera didn't turn off. Although it should at some point of overheat. I still use this camera sometimes without any problems, didn't even noticed any increased sensor noise (it was noisy before, it is noisy now, lol)


I made *a few* shots here, other than that it is Rezeda's work

but I can share technical details:
  • Regular 3x3 raw 1880x784 in 12 bits on 5D2
  • Lens - Industar 50-2 (50mm f/3.5)
  • Color grade - 100% MLV App
  • Cut in Premiere with some warp stabilizer
  • Shot handheld using neck strap

I like how poplar fluff slowly flies in the air :D

Thanks to all guys on the ML project :)

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