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thank you guys!
@Ilia3101 I deleted most of the source MLVs, but I still have this one by pure luck

https://gofile.io/d/UIaO96
here is one frame mlv, or do you need whole?

in reality the sun was actually kind of yellow-ish, there were clouds in the sky and snow, and it was late..

3x3 is full sensor, I used MLV App to do all color grade and export to prores, then stabilization and minor corrections in adobe premiere.

Well, thank you for your input... I'd love to do more motion in a video but I don't have any camera stabilizer for now... it's just an amateur video

Hello guys, this is just a short video I shot for my ambient track.

I used Canon 5DII with latest reddeercity's build, in 3x3 mode (1880x786) and 12 bits for this test (my cf card is too slow for anything better than this) so you can see aliasing sometimes.
Everything was shot handheld with Helios 44M wide open (f 2.0)

For the music I used vintage sampler (Yamaha SU700) and Korg Volca Keys for the bass.

Maybe I can download and compile it, but I have very little expirience in all this, so maybe later when I finish some things..

Especially DNxHD can't be played at all on my computers. DNxHR works as slideshow here.

This is very strange, but on my computer it is exactly the opposite I mean ProRes vs DNxHR

Hello guys! Is there an option to export to DNxHR with custom resolutions? Premiere or resolve can do it, it would be great if MLV App could too..

Currently I'm using prores, but on my laptop similar DNxHR files plays 4-5 times better/faster than prores for some reason...

as a disclaimer - all I say below may not be technically right or correct.
but...

I found that overexposing a lot, somewhat helps in low-light situations.
For example, your scene looks correctly exposed at iso 400. Change it iso 1600, and you will get some highlights clipped and wrong exposure, but in post you will bring down the exposure -2 stops. Also the noise. It becomes a lot less visible... But try it at your own risk

Also, color noise is mostly red, so you can desaturate deep reds, and try to use less contrast and less saturation for night scenes overall, it will make noise less noticeable.
Try darkframe subtraction, maybe it will help too...

And record in 12 or 14 bits, 10 bits could be too noisy.

what else... you know the rule shutter speed should be 180 degrees, but if there is not much movement in a scene, you can use exposure override and set the exposure to 1/25 seconds (while filming at 24 fps), it is almost 360 degree shutter, but it is +1 stop more light. But watch for the lights flicker (60hz or 50hz frequency).

And remember that noise is really visible in the dark areas, so if your scene looking well-lit, then high iso is OK. But you don't have much room to maneuver in darker scenes. So you can just leave them dark as part of the style..
Anyway, you don't want to turn night into day with these not so suitable for night shooting cameras.. you have to keep all these things in mind when shooting in low-light.

Actually 5D2 can record 1x3 video, here is a way to enable 1x3 for it

Ok here we go , 5k ([email protected]) 1x3 setup with the adtg_gui module  and yes it can take up to 15min to setup , if you get it to work on the first try (without a battery pull) you're dong good 
The audio is a little low , sorry  forgot to gain the audio up when i captured it to my hdmi aja captured card from my HV20 .
let my know if it's problem , I can always upload a new version with gained up audio .   

But it was never made into a preset, apparently it's not that simple...

@IDA_ML maybe
I personally almost never use any noise reduction, youtube compression will eat some details (and noise) anyway. So noise and emulated film grain can serve as some form of dithering for youtube compression algorithm, but it's the matter of personal taste

for me it looks very good
but why didn't you use 10 bits and maybe slightly lower fps? this way you can get more resolution, around 1600 px

Thank you Zeek! Actually, 1/48 wasn't so important to me as I wanted to find a way to fine-tune the shutter speed for shooting under electric lights (50 Hz), when I set the camera to 1/50, ML shows 1/49.95 and usually lights look normal, but sometimes unevenness is visible, perhaps the mains frequency is not always exactly 50 Hz where I live... (it's true, I measured it once, sometimes it lags noticeably)
It is also useful to fine tune the shutter speed when shooting equipment with LED and other types of displays to get rid of flicker.

But if these cameras don't have this function, it's okay

[dok]

Hi guys! sorry for probably a stupid question but.... I don't see "shutter fine tuning" option in the menu, my cameras are 550D and 5D2
I used search, but didn't find anything

in reply #24 dok mentioned this option on 550d

I also don't go to -1.03, I can only go from -1 and then -1.5.  My camera is an old 550D.

1-2fps 4k theoretically should be possible

there is also full resolution silent pictures for 5k timelapses

I'm sorry to hear that, I liked your music. classic old-school industrial, it's really good actually. Why do you have to leave? just post videos once in a while, there is no need to participate in conversations if you don't want to.. As a musician too, I always felt not so alone when I saw your videos..

for a channel that seems completely ignored Tube-wise

It's very common on youtube, there are some people who create good music and they have like 100 subs or so. Most people don't usually see these channels because 99% of recommended videos are with over a million views, or from very popular creators. so people just don't have a way to find such authors, it can only happen by accident, or like here on the forum.

Sounds great!

I failed They have light-blue LEDs in rgb matrix, and they seems to look OK under any condition... I haven't discovered anything suspicious.

This shouldn't happen with a mechanical shutter - but need to double-check.

I'll check it next time, interesting though. I know how ADCs works in general (SAR ADCs and so on), and a lot about electronics... But photo and video world is kind of new to me. If only I had more time to study everything.. probably need another life

Thanks guys!

That's the "black sun" effect - see e.g.:
- pco.de/.../20140412_FOM_CameraTutorial_PCO_fin_pdf.pdf p.31
- imagesensors.org/.../7-02__geurts.pdf p.3
- https://www.physicsforums.com/threads/black-sun-effect-in-cmos-sensors.799334/

Wow, interesting links. I kind of knew about this phenomenon, but never thought it could happen so easily on a "pro" camera. And it isn't black on my clips..

Reducing the white level works, but it seems like I'm loosing some highlight details this way. The easiest way for me (for now) is to mask it away in post, since it is always surrounded by some blank area, masking is relatively easy.
I haven't tried Resolve yet, I'm using MLVApp -> Premiere, for now..

For some reason it is very easy to get this blown-out sun effect, this example was shot on relatively cloudy day, it was already evening and sunset, not a lot of light... In a day time, I get this artefact even not on the sun, but in the bright sky. Unfortunately I already deleted MLVs with bright sky example...

It would be nice if "highlight reconstruction" in MLV App could fix this, somehow.. but I think it's a little bit offtopic.


We have this new RGB LED spotlights in a park, I'm gonna take a walk and shoot some clips today, will try to catch this negative-blue effect.

Sometimes I get this ugly pink area if the highlights clipped really hard (like on the sun, for example) even when "highlight reconstruction" is on..

This is how it looks (click for full size):


One-frame mlv and the preset I used:
https://gofile.io/d/q6sagD

It is clearly visible even with the default MLV App settings, and if you bring down the highlights and turn on reconstruction it becomes really obvious.
I used 5D2 and 12 bits.

So what crops are we talking about with these resolutions?

For now, you have two options that works reasonably well with 5D2.. I can describe it in a few words.

First option - to record using full sensor, so you will get the full-frame look. The resolution in this mode is 1880 in width, so it is slightly less than 1920, but it is not a problem at all, and most older cameras don't shoot really in 1920 natively, sometimes they do much larger upscale, you won't even notice this small 40px upscale.
You can shoot up to 30/31 fps with this mode, and there is another preset for slo-mo, where you can shoot using 48 fps, but the resolution will be limited in height, 1880x744. which is still cool and cinematic. And it is RAW, so it upscales really good.

This mode is called 3x3 and although it uses the full-frame, it has some drawbacks. To read the full sensor area, it uses pixel binning and line skipping, and it produces aliasing. Sometimes it is very noticeble, sometimes not. This is the reason why many people prefer vintage lens and shoot wide open, it helps a lot with aliasing. Native h.264 (.mov files) from camera uses this mode also.


And there is another option - shoot 1:1 in a crop mode. It doesn't skip any pixels, so there is no aliasing, but the camera is too slow to record the whole 5.6k sensor at 24 fps, so there is a preset 2784x1160 24fps, and you can upcsale it to 4k or downscale to 1080p, and it will look great.

BUT. It will use only center of the sensor, so you will get a crop. And it is about 2x crop. The sensor is 5,6k and you recording only 2,7k. So you will probably need some wide-angle lens because of that 2x crop. And this mode is only 24fps, and you also need a very fast CF card for this, the file sizes are bigger, and you need faster PC to process them. And this mode is less stable, you can get crashes sometimes.


There are some other modes but they are even less stable. And there is also 5632x3124 @ 3.8fps which uses almost the whole sensor, and it looks absolutely fantastic, but it eats cardspace like crazy


What can I say about the quality... I had sony a-37, and the difference is night and day. RAW video is fantastic, it can look like a photo. But you'll have to learn how to use it properly, and it takes A LOT MORE TIME to shoot and process raw clips. I warned you!


5D2 also doesn't have any image stabilization! It could be difficult to shoot handheld after Sony.

And if you have money for 5D3, definitely go for 5D3.

Personally I mostly use 3x3 mode, it's just more convenient and simple to use, and my CF card is not that big and fast... And to fight aliasing I use vintage lenses wide open. And they vignettes a lot, have distorted edges... So it is very vintage look, but you can color-grade it very deeply, push the shadows a lot, and so on. Sometimes there is still too much aliasing, so I discard some footage sometimes..
I think you just have to embrace it as it is, no 4k but who needs that 4k anyway? It's RAW and it's awesome. I really enjoy this whole process of filming with raw, although processing it and stabilizing everything in post takes ages on my old laptop. But it's so cool anyway, I'm just really happy with it

You can shoot 48fps max by now, and slow it down 2 times with something like twixtor or optic flow... this way you will get a result like it was shot in 96 fps. Sometimes it would work, sometimes not.
If there is a lot of fast motion in a frame, then twixtor won't help. But even then, if you only need two seconds of slow-motion, then you can probably get away with it, just select the part without artifacts, it could work even if it was a very dynamic scene.

It's very interesting! How did you know that the problem was the EDID handshake? I have 5D2 which outputs only 480p

well.. what about winter use? I don't believe someone would really change the shutter button.. and I am totally against all touchscreens, it's just a consumer thing to save a few $ by not using real mechanical buttons.

hmm.. very interesting. what build are you using? any special camera settings?

Some monitors show information in the menu, mine is showing 720x480p and a message "use 1920x1200 for best experience".

You can also tell by the size of pixels that they are not 1080p, they are much larger. And there is an option "force VGA" which should switch to 480p resolution, if it looks exactly the same, then it is 480p all the time..

I don't have any capture card unfortunately, but I've tried two monitors.. all the same.

@lambertcolson have you tried connecting via hdmi? I tried various builds and settings, but can get only 480p from 5D2. And "force vga" doesn't do anything...

I encountered this problem with dark frames about a year ago, but completely forgot about it... It's great that this bug being fixed!

Ilia told me to register on github and report a bug, but I never did that... First, my laptop died, and I didn't shoot more stars then. But not because of a bug or anything, but because of a fact that stars don't look good in 3x3 mode - they disappear periodically. At that time I was experimenting with other things, another camera.. It was probably very unprofessional, for which I apologize.

Anyway, you guys are great, thank you for all the work you have done! Maybe more people will shoot stars now.

Hi guys! I have one theory about overclocking.... do you know why exactly card fails? I mean, if someone with oscilloscope can watch the signal on SD pins, maybe clock edges are not strong enough, or data-edges...
sometimes, in digital electronics, waveform could be improved if you add pull-up or pull-down resistors, they could be installed in the microSD to SD adapter for example.

I can't check this myself because I only have 5D2 and 550D, but just had this idea right now, who knows, maybe it is something useful, or maybe not. Maybe card fails because it cannot complete write cycle in time, physical flash technology limitation, and there is nothing we can do. ALTHOUGH.... maybe under/over-voltage could affect write times... I think it's interesting.