Messages

@masc thank you! This is great, changing the background color is very helpful.

By the way, I am always surprised how much free software is better than commercial. When people ask for something, for example, from Adobe, they usually just ignore everything
And here we see a real community and a program that really develops and becomes more mature every day. You and all other guys who work on this program are just awesome!

Can I ask about some feature request?

It would be really helpful if the interface of the program could be switched to light grey/white theme.
I like black interface but it is important to sometimes see how everything looks on a white background, because many consumer level monitors have some sorts of auto-contrast that can not be switched off, and the picture you see when working with dark interface is kind of different than you will see when upload everything on the internet, where sites usually have light backgrounds...

And not only monitors adjusts their brightness/contrast, our eyes too. So it is just helpful to switch the interface sometimes. For example, in photoshop you can click on a background and select custom color, usually I select almost pure white. And then the picture looks a lot more like it will be on the internet.

But this is just a suggestion, if it is too hard to implement or requires a lot of work then... I think everybody can live without it but if in some future version we will see such an option, it will be very nice.

from youtube comments:

Sigma 18-50 f 2.8-4.5
24 fps 1600 (wide angle shots) and 3200 Iso
5kFrtp 16/9 mode (3840/2160) 10bit
Export in Arri log C gamma
Graded in Davinci Resolve 17.4

Chek out this video, I'm use this technique for denoise my footage  https://youtu.be/NKC4Me_2pfY

and he also mentions that he used 1/50 shutter speed all the time, but in reality you can easily get away with 1/40...1/30 or even 1/25 with static shots where you don't see a lot of motion. nobody will really see a difference in motion blur, but for low light 1/25 is just +1 stop of light. could be more important than "proper" shutter angle.

found this on youtube...
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=deMoZ0dSAtQ

not bad for 1600-3200 iso eos m

I agree, the colors a really nice! especially combined with full-frame look and 50mm

maybe somewhere at the middle, and try what will be looking better

then I use the same setting with lens cap mounted to make dark frames, then I recorded other with iso 400 f/1.8.

and also at the same ambient and camera temperatures, if you can. for example, dark frame made with identical settings but with cold camera is absolutely different than when the camera is working for an hour or so. winter/hot summer conditions also should affect temperatures and noise patterns..

I did some experiments with timelapses (1-2h with 1..1.5fps) and if I record the dark frame before the timelapse, it worked good only with first ~1/3 of a video, and if I did dark frame after the timelapse (when sensor is hot) then the beginning of a video looks bad. So I couldn't decide what darkframe should I use.
But then someone suggested that I can export two video variants with both dark frames, and crossfade between them in editing software. Should work, but I have not tried it yet. Of course, for short clips it is not necessary.

I stabilize all my footage with FCPX. Without additional digital stabilization in post the footage made with my Weebill S is just unusable. You can't move your hands smooth enough to not have shaky footage. At 16mm it can be okay with some luck, but at 50mm it is very noticable. Maybe this becomes better with IS lenses, but I don't have any to try out.

I see.. bad news, I thought if I buy a gimbal someday, then digital stabilization won't be necessary. 

@masc those clips look very clean. It is hard to believe they were shoot at 1000-4000 iso. But 5DIII is much better in low light than other ML cameras..
When you first posted this video I also noticed jumping lens flares, so you must be using software stabilization? I thought a gimbal will provide very smooth footage, but how steady it is in reality?

So, what do you think?  It will also look better with stabilization, because youtube is especially lazy when some parts of a frame don't move, youtube considers them static and just replaces with permanent picture. and it also increases quality of small details.
This is not scientific or something, just some of my observations. At least now I don't really care about small amounts of noise, in 1080 or less nobody will see it. Or, at least, there is no need for extreme denoising..

Have you tried uploading the same video to youtube but without denoiser? It will be interesting to compare. I found that youtube heavy compression algorithm acts like a denoiser to some extent

you can get rid of color aliasing with mask around problematic area (track the mask if object moves) and use something like "desaturate color aberrations" in that area.. it can help. you can also blur slightly some annoying areas or use extreme motion blur on them.. but don't expect too much from it.

[Zeek]

ok I uploaded some files, they are raw 12 bit from 5D2, I hope it will be useful.. file sizes are 500-600mb.
I don't know how long they will be available for download, but maybe less than two weeks. So feel free to use them as you wish. Training murder drones sounds interesting

https://gofile.io/d/8QGqzB

https://gofile.io/d/nKsNDK

https://gofile.io/d/ksTJBb

https://gofile.io/d/Oj2f28

https://gofile.io/d/Gv6cV1



there are also some mlvs that Zeek shared in his youtube video, they are shot with EOS M:
https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1QG9zBzzaMffm25z7MSlxK7HruzF9rzfF
(link to the the video)
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=chtpBWMX1MY

you can also download very short mlv that masc shared in this thread, shot with 5D3 5.7k
https://www.magiclantern.fm/forum/index.php?topic=25945.0

I hope these guys won't mind, the links are in public domain anyway...

if you use 10 or 12 bits and change aspect ratio from 16:9 to 1:2,40 or something like that, you can have continuous recording with relatively slow cards. Try resolutions such as 1880x720 or so... and it depends on what you want to shoot, but sometimes you don't need continuous recocording. Sometimes 20-30 seconds is enough.

About moire - it is present in h.264 recordings as well, the reason you see it more in RAW is because the raw footage is much sharper. Vintage lenses wide open can reduce such artefacts, and remember to keep problematic objects (grids, fences, sharp diagonal lines) just slightly out of focus... And if you uploading to youtube, it will be less detailed anyway so nobody will notice any small imperfections


And I found a way to significantly reduce aliasing and moire, by using 2x anamorphic adapter. It requires to compress the height 2x in post, so you have twice the vertical pixels and details. It is almost 3x1 mode, but not exactly... And I think anamorphic adapter acts as a VAF filter if focus is not 100% perfect. You can even tweak it to slightly blur vertically or horisontally, because the whole system is dual focus.

I used this app with 550D years ago for h.264 recording, it was cool but very unstable...

this http://dslrcontroller.com/guide-wifi_mr3040.php looks very interesting by the way

[theBilalFakhouri]

nope... I thought it should be more detailed or something, because theBilalFakhouri said in the first post:

-1920x540p is cleaner than 1920x1080i, I could see the noise clearly.

little update - I just finished repairing 24" monitor (haha, service center said it cannot be fixed) So I connected 550D and it works with interlaced and progressive scan But I didn't see much difference between the two. Although I look at the noise very closely. Well anyway, I can see the output in both modes.

What was the output on 550D and 5D2 when watching H.264 videos ?

It was all 1080 in both cameras.. The setting I used is NTSC interlaced.

And 5D2 is always turns off correctly, at least so far I haven't noticed anything


@theBilalFakhouri thank you so much for all this work, if I ever knew how much progress you will make for 650/700D, I would definitely buy 650 instead of 550 I am really surprised how much functionality you have added to this camera

There are lots of things.. I will do more tests soon.

It isn't working with h.264 recording on 5D2 too, it just switches to 480. and screen goes black periodically, like it is trying to switch but falls back to 480.
But the videos recorded ok. At least in a few tests.

I tested 550 with very slow SD card (I just recently lost my fast sd card) and it was recording only 5-6 seconds, so I thought everyting is the same. I didn't noticed frozen screen because most of the time my monitor was black, and I only saw it for a moment and then "recording stopped".
Now with normal fast SD card I can see - everything as you described, it's frozen with distorted content in the top area.
Actually it starts with 480 sometimes, and then switches to 1080 and screen freezes.

Sometimes 550D doesn't turn off correctly after I use this module, card activity led stays lit.
So it's kind of unstable and more useful for live streaming and so on, for now.. (for 550D).

I didn't have time to check RAW recording with this module on 5D2, but I'm gonna do more tests later
What else... on 550D I can watch recorded h.264 clips in full screen, full width. On 5D2 it is centered and much smaller, with borders.

ok I did it
I don't know if recording the monitor with 550D is a good idea, but anyway:

And sorry for the accent, this is literally second or third time I speak English

ok I can confirm it is working on 550D and 5D2 and NTSC and PAL switch also works..

so what kind of video do you want? I don't have a capture card to show the screen, but maybe I can record something with another camera...

It worked! i'm gonna test it more on both cameras tomorrow awesome!
as it turns out, the monitor can perfectly accept 1080i with forced output... no artefacts or anything. But if I switch to progressive, it shows blank screen with warning "change resolution", probably because of a strange aspect ratio.

1080i is cool, much more detailed than 480 now I can focus easily without any magnification. Thank you a lot!

It is very cool, I saw it
Is it a problem also for digic 4 cameras? I only have 550D and 5D2, so if this hack can work I would be really happy. The module from the first post is universal for the whole range of cameras, so I thought maybe... anyway it is very interesting progress

ok, I didn't explain what I mean properly... I have a monitor which can work with 1080p, but apparently it can't display 1080i. So I can't enter 1080i mode at all...
I just wanted to have better resolution than 720x480, and if there is a way to enable say 1920x540p or any other resolution higher than 720x480, without switching to interlaced mode first, it would be great.

Hi! Is there any possibility to switch to progressive without entering 1080i?
It seems that my monitor won't accept interlaced 1080i and the camera defaults to 480 so module can't work...

Thanks! I shoot it in the park, 10 minutes of walk from where I live. It's Russia, Chelyabinsk. We have this small piece of forest in the middle of the city, and this is probably the most interesting thing here
It took me about a month to shoot everything in the same mood, the weather was changing every time so I have to wait for the snow again and so on... For the stabilization I use shorter neck strap and 2-3% of warp stabilizer in post.