Messages

I liked it. But everything seemed horizontally stretched. It was distracting at first but I eventually got used to it.

I say either go all the way with it and make it the official ML discord, or get rid of it.

There are a lot of people that use discord as communication, and more and more talented developers are using that ML discord to test things everyday. Making it public might actually attract more people.

If it were exclusive then that would define magiclantern as exclusive. Test and chat there - post results on forum seems like a good idea

Ohhhhh sorry. Didn't know that there was a difference. I'll take some in a few

Hey Srsa that script worked on the R6.

It's a logfile of 170KB. Is this log file publically shareable?

Could you please send me a craw file from R6 ?

I'll send two

still like the new eos R there's a speed booster RF-EF lens available now that reducers 4k crop factor from 1.7 to 1.24

It also works on the R6 in Fullframe!! I'm making an entire video about this. 0.71x Medium Format crop factor on EF lenses!





(Sorry I know it's unrelated but also at the same time related to discussion)

Ran on my R6:

Code Select Expand

<?xml version="1.0"?><Canon><CameraInfo><Serial>XXXXXXXXXXXX</Serial><FirmwareVer><Internal>0.4.0.5</Internal><Major>1.1.0</Major></FirmwareVer><ErrorList><Kind><ID>E01</ID><Count>2</Count><ErrorLog><BatTemperature>max:0 min:0</BatTemperature><FirstOccurTime>2020.09.17 02:08:57</FirstOccurTime><LastOccurTime>2020.09.17 02:09:15</LastOccurTime><Log><DateTime>2020.09.17 02:09:15</DateTime><Reason>DS-EID:068</Reason><BatTemperature>0</BatTemperature><LensID>0000bc95</LensID><ReleaseCount>528</ReleaseCount></Log><Log><DateTime>2020.09.17 02:08:57</DateTime><Reason>DS-EID:068</Reason><BatTemperature>0</BatTemperature><LensID>0000bc95</LensID><ReleaseCount>527</ReleaseCount></Log></ErrorLog></Kind><Kind><ID>E70</ID><Count>4</Count><ErrorLog><BatTemperature>max:0 min:0</BatTemperature><FirstOccurTime>2020.09.17 13:12:17</FirstOccurTime><LastOccurTime>2020.09.20 12:55:27</LastOccurTime><Log><DateTime>2020.09.20 12:55:27</DateTime><Reason>DS-EID:101</Reason><BatTemperature>0</BatTemperature><LensID>00000000</LensID><ReleaseCount>1171</ReleaseCount></Log><Log><DateTime>2020.09.20 12:51:18</DateTime><Reason>DS-EID:101</Reason><BatTemperature>0</BatTemperature><LensID>00000000</LensID><ReleaseCount>1171</ReleaseCount></Log><Log><DateTime>2020.09.17 13:30:36</DateTime><Reason>DS-EID:101</Reason><BatTemperature>0</BatTemperature><LensID>0000bca9</LensID><ReleaseCount>561</ReleaseCount></Log><Log><DateTime>2020.09.17 13:12:17</DateTime><Reason>DS-EID:101</Reason><BatTemperature>0</BatTemperature><LensID>0000bca9</LensID><ReleaseCount>561</ReleaseCount></Log></ErrorLog></Kind><Kind><ID>E255</ID><Count>2</Count><ErrorLog><BatTemperature>max:0 min:0</BatTemperature><FirstOccurTime>2020.09.20 12:51:15</FirstOccurTime><LastOccurTime>2020.09.20 12:51:15</LastOccurTime><Log><DateTime>2020.09.20 12:51:15</DateTime><Reason>DS-EID:028</Reason><BatTemperature>0</BatTemperature><LensID>00000000</LensID><ReleaseCount>1171</ReleaseCount></Log><Log><DateTime>2020.09.20 12:51:15</DateTime><Reason>DS-EID:028</Reason><BatTemperature>0</BatTemperature><LensID>00000000</LensID><ReleaseCount>1171</ReleaseCount></Log></ErrorLog></Kind></ErrorList><TotalShoot>1471</TotalShoot><TotalShutter>305</TotalShutter><PowerOnCount>311</PowerOnCount><TotalRunningTime>63758</TotalRunningTime></CameraInfo></Canon>

Ran on m50:

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<?xml version="1.0"?><Canon><CameraInfo><Serial>XXXXXXXXXX</Serial><FirmwareVer><Internal>0.7.0.0</Internal><Major>1.0.2</Major></FirmwareVer><ErrorList></ErrorList><TotalShoot>1078</TotalShoot><TotalShutter>1078</TotalShutter><TotalSW2>1229</TotalSW2><TotalSW2Long>0</TotalSW2Long><PowerOnCount>690</PowerOnCount><TotalRunningTime>225948</TotalRunningTime></CameraInfo></Canon>

And on R5 is a TotalShoot and TotalShutter count...

It's probably because there is a mechanical shutter and electronic shutter.

mlv_play isn't working and causes no modules to load.

mlv_play hasn't worked in ages on experimental builds. Everyone has this problem. There isn't much that can be done unless you can convince someone to develop mlv_play more.

I just asked around for the rom in the discord chat. You should really join it!

[Background:]

Thought that this could be useful for understanding the camera hardware.

Background: A1ex, names_are_hard, and I had a random off topic conversation in the discord chat about overheating on DigicX. We were comparing the 5D to the R6 as far as power draw from the internal battery. Then I realized that I have an accurate way of measuring this and could perform a test!

Test setup:
Using a LP-E6 dummy battery, an AC adapter for the dummy battery, and a TPlink Smart watt-meter. I was able to measure the power of the cameras in their different states. I have the 5D2 and the R6, but this test can be measured on any camera!


Limitations:

• My AC adapter could only provide 1.7A max. So 1.7A x 7.4V = 12.58W MAX read. After 12.58W, my AC adapter would overload and shut the camera down.
• The TPlink Smart watt-meter is accurate to 2 decimal places, but has a refresh rate of 1 second. It's work aroundable, but I would of course rather have something that's more time precise

Results:
The AC adapter naturally uses 0.3W of power. So subtracting that from the readings I get and getting an average

5D2: (+/- 0.5W on all tests)
Power on (no liveview): 2.56W
Liveview on: 7.21W
Recording H.264: 8.4W
Recording 1044p RAW: 8.59W
Recording 2.7K RAW MLV 24fps: 8.35W

EOS R6: (+/- 0.5W on all tests)
Power on (flipped screen into camera): 1.6W
Liveview on LCD screen: 4.1W
Recording 4K 60fps: 10.6W
Recording 4K 60fps with stabilzation on while shaking cam (IBIS): 11.8W
Recording 4K 60fps with AF on (35mm lens) stabilzation on:OVERLOADED (>12.58A)
Shooting in 20fps photo burst mode: OVERLOADED (>12.58A)
Recording at 4k 24p no usb c charger: 9.8W
Recording at 4k 24p with usb c charger plugged in: 9.82W (basically the same)
[(this confirms that the usb c only charges the battery and does not power the camera at any point)]

So the R6 draws significantly more power from the LPE6 batteries than the 5D2. I can only imagine that a R5 recording 8K RAW to a CF express card could draw closer to 16W.

I would love to see this test performed on other cameras! Even the blackmagic4k would be interesting. I'll update this first post if anyone can post a reliable test of this on a camera.

IMPORTANT INFO:

Find out about a problem with the 2880x1200 at 25 fps preset.
If the foxus box is moved with the cursor arrows, you might get corrupted frames.
When the focus box is dead center, all works well. But if it is slightly moved around, it might cause corrupted frames.
You can see it in the behaviour of the real-time Canon live view. If your focus box is in a wrong place, liveview gets sluggish/jittery.
If you move the focus box around to a place where liveview is normal again, things are probably fine agian. (works for me).

Haven't noticed this behaviour at other presets.

This also happens on the 5D2 3.5K preset!!!!!! I noticed this a few weeks ago.

A lot of work has been done on the M50, but there are no active developers working on the camera. If you have coding experience please help on the m50's development.

Okay so I learned something. I tried to compare the R6 in 1920x1080 mode to the 5D2 1880x1268, but the 5D2 footage was coming out sharper (when I nailed the focus that is). Here is the example video stills all shot on Sigma 35mm 1.4 @f/2:


Fullsized image. (Note that accidently captioned 1880p, but it's actually 1880width)
The R6 produces random artifacts in 1080p mode for some reason. This is kind of a bummer to me. I don't know what that is but it happens every few frames. I didn't apply any sharpening or anything. I can confirm that this doesn't happen on the R6 in 4K mode though.



I can't believe I'm saying this but basically the 5D2 RAW is sharper than the R6 in 1080p mode. And I'm not sure what's going on with the artifacts on the R6.

Otherwise: I'm not a hugely master colorist, but I do feel like the color ranges and dynamic range is roughly the same with a shot that has been exposed correctly.  Will do more tests and report back soon

[TLDR:]

I have a few questions to you or anyone else who can comment on them.         

How does R6 4k video filmed in PR 422, 10-bits compare to 5D3 RAW video filmed at 14/12-bits lossless in terms of image quality? Have you made such comparisons or have you seen them on the net?
I working on a side by side test of this. But honestly, the 10bit on the R6 is pretty amazing. Of course RAW would be better, but it's still 10x better than regular h.264. I am used to grading ML footage in adobe camera raw so the workflows are drastically different. But it's way better to be able to edit the footage right out of camera. And there is extremely good shadow recovery. I've been 4 stops under exposed and there is almost no noise when I bring the image back up to EV0. A huge one is that I can also adjust the white balance of the video in post pretty accurately with the little dropper tool and no quality degradation.

The R6 does not shoot in ProRes though. The R6 uses HEVC instead of Prores.

What do you mean by "better C-log"? Is the current one not good enough?
I've used Clog1 Clog 2 and Clog3 in the past on other cameras. Clog3 better uses the full dynamic range of the sensor. Here is an extreme example taken on clog1 on the R6:

I've shot the sun and the ocean in clog1. Now obviously, the sun is going to be completely blown out regardless of what I film at. But in the clip, the highlights only go to about 80% of the highest color information. The shadows only go down to 10%. I call this "too flat" and this is an extreme example. Most of the time, the shadows and highlights are usually within 60% of each other in clog1. When using clog3, these numbers are spread a lot more on the spectrum. Shooting on the c300 mark 3  in clog3, there is NO POINT in shooting RAW via HDMI. Clog 3 is that powerful to me.

But I will say that it is good enough. I've actually never been able to manipulate footage to such quality so fast before.

How about the filmic look - doesn't R6 video look too digital?

It depends on what you mean. When think of "Filmic" look, I think of imperfections. Maybe a little softness on lenses, or maybe random grain. High contrast. Good dynamic range. And stuff like that. But then when I see shows like Breaking Bad that was shot 100% on film, I feel like that is super digital looking with amazing dynamic range. But it was shot on film.

There are a lot of ways to make digital look like film, and film look like digital. The Alexa's and RED's are known for there dynamic range and ability to push to make look like film. But nowadays, that dynamic range exists on basic cams like these. The Sigma FP can produce some amazing footage that can be converted to look like film. I truly believe that with some tinkering, one could make the R6 look like film.

The biggest downside is that the R6 also films in IPB mode though and not ALL-I (which lowers the quality by compression). It's not too noticeable to me, but I'm sure there will be artifacts if I were inches away from an 80" screen. 

Now that you have the R6, don't you miss ML RAW video?
Actually not really (which is surprising me). I thought I would be switching back and forth between my 5D and the R6 on shoots, but you CANNOT beat the autofocus system on the R6. I was shooting a model on an EF 100mm f/2 lens and she was in moving around a lot. BUT SHE WAS IN FOCUS THE ENTIRE TIME! Every single frame, here eyes were sharp. The IBIS also was perfect for handholding 100mm. No matter how good Magic Lantern gets on the old cameras, it can't beat such features.Of course being able to PLAYBACK the footage on set is also huge. The zebras are helpful too, just as helpful as the magic lantern zebras.

Personally, I think that the R6 will become the "perfect camera" if one day we see ML on it but this is just me and my dreams.

Me too. I mean honestly if they can find a way to implement RAW HD on this camera then I would be happy (RAW 4K probably isn't possible due to slow SD card rates). But there is RAW light that can probably handle it. Of course I'm sure MLV can handle it too. I couldn't imagine what you devs could do with a 300MB/s write speed. It would be 100% the perfect camera if it had ALL-I recording with Clog3. Right now it's at about a 95% to me. But for being $2,500 plus a cheap $50 EF adapter (which works perfectly btw) it's basically perfect to me. I'm probably going to be using this camera for the next 10 years comfortably. I'm actually impressed with Canon's new battery too. It def lasts longer then the regular LP-E6 batteries. The new battery even works for my 5D!

TLDR: I would basically call the R6's clog1 9.5bit footage (Not full 10bit if that makes sense). More than double the dynamic range of regular h264, but still not using the camera's full capabilities. The autofocus and ibis are to die for though. I never realized how much I needed autofocus. I can properly look at the footage and see things that shouldn't be there instead of worrying about racking focus at the right time.

Edit: Something that I want to try is making a video in 20fps photo burst mode. The photos are 16bit (a bit overkill but sweet) but still 4fps too slow to make the smooth 24fps. Maybe I can shoot a music video and slow the song down to 0.83x, then interpret the footage as 24fps. Open gate (4:3), 5.4K, and 16bit! I can't imagine what that would look like.

Are downgrades possible ? or are they blocked

There is nothing to downgrade to on the R6. If we had the firmware file for a previous version then maybe this hack would work. It may actually work for the R5 since there are multiple firmwares available now.

I wouldn't risk it though. The R6 is a perfect camera for me right now (unless canon implements a better CLog).

No offence but would you mind recording a video following the steps shown in video provided by EOSHD?

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1VUOchC3jeSj9sUlN3IOK36qsiA5N0ysy/view?usp=sharing

It only works with a battery door hack or a dummy battery. I've tried doing this at least 20 times as shown on EOSHD.

Do you need 1.0 for the R5 as well or has this already been dumped?

Yes I believe that would be helpful. I think we only dumped 1.1

Canon Just released a Firmware V1.1.1 for R5 and R6

Be aware of possible lock down on my hack finding last Sunday.
Even if I think it will be a very fast answer to roll out a firmware in only 3 days, that's still a possibility.

At least, it may be able to do a file comparison between V1.1.0 et V1.1.1 to see what changed is any.

Interesting. Keep us updated

[DO NOT POST THE ROMS PUBICALLY.]

I have checked and my R6 has software version 1.0.0

I am not technically involved in this topic. But if I can do something helpful, I'd love to!

Yes you can help if you have firmware version 1.0.0. I'll give you some steps below on how to perform a ROM dump.

1. Get a SD or a SDHC card on standby. An SDXC card won't work.
2. On a PC, download and install this program
3. Also download this link. It is an card image that you will write to your SD card.
4. Open Win32DiskImager. Insert your SD card and browse to the file that you downloaded.
5. Make sure that you backed up everything on the card. Click 'WRITE' and wait until the status bar finishes.
6. Remove the SD card from your computer and insert it into SLOT 2 of the EOS R6. Turn the camera on. Push the 'PLAY' icon and then push 'SET'. Wait until the RED LED stops flashing.
7. Remove the SD card from your camera and put it back into your computer. You should now have the rom dump files (boot00.bin, gang100.bin, and gang200.bin).
8. DO NOT POST THE ROMS PUBICALLY. Send them to me in a private message.

None taken Walter. Will do sometime tonight.

Wowwwww. This is crazy!

I've created a web-based javascript app that lets you quickly set the camera's clock to +1 day and -1 day to help automate visionrouge's workaround. It only works in browsers that allow you to disable CORS Policy Security. Unfortunately none of the mobile web browsers available support that option, so for now this is limited to home/office/studio use.

Here is the link to the app: http://www.testcams.com/ccapi/datehack.html

Full instructions including how to disable CORS Policy security are in the GitHub repository: https://github.com/horshack-dpreview/canondatehack.html

Thanks Horshack. You're awesome

Firmware version?

R6 v1.1.0 . That's the only firmware version for the R6 currently

I can confirm this as well, no need to defeat the battery door sensor!

Just change the date and pull the battery as normal.

You can put the date back to the correct one upon reinserting battery.

No I was literally saying that DOESN'T work for me. I CAN'T get that working on the EOS R6 no matter how many times I try or how fast I try it. I NEED a battery door hack or a dummy battery in order for it to work. It doesn't work on a regular battery pull.

[I can't confirm the test of the regular battery pull on the EOS R6.]

Someone posted to EOSHD forum that they didn't need a dummy battery or a door closed hack to reset the timer. I can't confirm the test of the regular battery pull on the EOS R6. No matter how many times I try, the overheating light never goes away (even when I take it out super quickly). I have to use a dummy battery or a "battery door close trick hack."

It works:
15 mins recording 8K ALL-I to CFExpress, overheating icon
Day +1, pulled battery
Inserted battery 30 secs later
No overheating icon
Turn off camera
Turn on camera, change date to current date, no overheating icon.

I can confirm this hack on EOS R6. Set date +1 day, then battery disconnect, turn camera back on, date -1 day does work. The timer has officially been reset and I am able to have clips saved on at the correct time.

I was actually at the beach filming 4K 60fps all day. Of course I got the overheating warning but this hack has so far been able to practically save my life haha!

[TLDR; basically, unlimited record time. All footage saved. If camera is overheating, change date +1 day and immediately pull dummy battery to reset overheating timer.]

GOOD NEWS!!

Results:

• I let the camera overheat after 29:59 + 8:07 mins of recording. Was not able to record anything
• I changed the date and time to one day later and confirmed then went back to canon menu
• Dummy battery disconnect immediately after changing date and time
• Overheating times seems to have reset. The date and time that was changed saved on reboot. All footage was recorded to the SD card successfully



• I proceeded to record in a cooler room. It recorded for 29:59 + 13:03 then overheated. So being in a cooler room did help
• I then disconnected the dummy battery WITHOUT changing the date and time +1 day. I turned the camera back on and the overheating warning was still there.
• I also tried changing the date +1 day and then waiting a few seconds in liveview, then battery pull. The overheating warning was still there.
• I changed the date +1 again and immediately removed the battery. Voila. Overheating timer gone! All other settings saved.

TLDR; basically, unlimited record time. All footage saved. If camera is overheating, change date +1 day and immediately pull dummy battery to reset overheating timer.

Thanks visionrouge(dot)net for the idea! This makes using this camera extremely worry free professionally for me. I wonder if we can make a script that can emulate those steps to trick the overheating timer. I encourage someone else to replicate this test on R6 and R5

*It must be noted that I have bootflag enabled on my EOS R6. Not sure if it means anything in relation to this test.

** It also must be noted that the files were split into 4GB files. I'm not sure if that's the default setting because I've never recorded that long. I realized that I formatted my 128GB card as FAT32 instead of exFAT so this makes sense.

I would love someone to do a simple test.
Put the camera on overheat and lock (after 20mn recording video) and keep the battery door open with the scerw hack or use dumb battery the entire time
Change the date  or time to move it to the next day.
Now, try 2 different things:

Remove the camera battery with the drop system. Is restarting check the new day? (But not the flag?)

Or simple turn off the camera, remove the battery and start again. is the second restart is able to do the math between both time? (So the overheat time is stored on eeprom/a counter is runnin during no battery time)

Does it makes sense to test this?

I'll do it now on my R6 and a dummy battery.

Hey. Don't know how significant this is, but when I try to place the sd card with portable rom dumper into the R6, the camera locks up in slot 2 AND slot 1.

But when I run the basic dumper, the sd card only works in slot 2.