Messages

I just realized that we need a PDR inside this app to use the proxy/ProRes feature. It is useless since after it becomes a ProRes file, we cannot get the pink dots removed. The only app I know of for MLV files that reduce pink dots is the set from Alex, such as raw2dng_cs2x2_ahdlike_noise.exe  Maybe that could be incorporated inside this app??
...

Gary,
I think we should suggest the correction of ProRes with "raw2dng_cs2x2_ahdlike_noise.exe" on the apps "mlrawviewer" from baldand. That is the apps for ProRes inside MLV Converter, except for the output DNG.
Please, correct me if I am wrong.

Hi baldand,

I've seen a lot of changes in your bitbucket repo since 1.0.4. Do you have any plans to compile a new build in near future?

Hi baldand !
Yes, I wait and check this thread regularly but still the version 1.0.4 32bit.exe . Unfortunately I don't know how to compile.
It will be nice if moving to 64 bit or with the GUI even if not perfect, I am ready to give feed back or close my mouth     or even still 32 bit but fix the last bug.
By the way, thank baldand; it's very good tool. I use in win7 an Mavericks.

Please expand this feature even more! \o/

I use ProRes for editing and final delivery. Usually, after converting to DNG I will use AE to convert to ProRes 4444 10 bit or 422 for editing and grading. This means the ProRes version would look really flat/use a log gamma so it will grade nicely, and since it's an edit friendly format, it will playback smoothly without a hitch.

It'd be nice if I can skip this step and just get a setting for the various prores output. This is without a doubt, a crucial feature to have.

Currently, I can't seem to set the LUT (the No LUT on the proxies section is always greyed out)

Also, the output files always suffixes with Proxy1 and Proxy2. Would be nice if it suffixes the type of prores it is (e.g. ProRes422 and ProRes4444 suffixes)

Btw, is it possible to have the output folders automagically filled in as child folders of the input folder? (and ability to ctrl-v paste a folder into the box?)

.....

Anyway, enjoy your vacation and thanks for all the fish!

Tony,

The proxy or ProRes is very useful. Please keep it.
If the condition light during filming are good, and I don't need heavy effect on Resolve then ProRes files will be enough for editing.
Especially if the LUT can be applied then the grading will be light and can be done in NLE program.
The MLV help to preserve the good quality during the filming. I know that in ideal way we edit the following process in Resolve or similar program, but if from DNG 14 bit going down to 10 bit ProResHQ for me is acceptable because my final file will be for Vimeo and DVD not for big screening. This will keep the post-processing more simple. I am still enjoying the transition from 8 bit, to this wonder by Magic Lantern.
I still didn't manage with the limitation of hard-disk also, the older files ProRes and DV (yes, SD files  ) already more than 30TB.
Have a nice vacation there !

Very beautiful clip.
You got it : intended to look very natural !
The colours are there as real and not over saturated  .
The clip (with ambiance sound and slow pace cutting) reflect the title.
Nice objective, by the way  .

Thanks for the program. It's work nicely. As the other said : I expect there will be Dual ISO.   

ADJ,

Thanks for sharing the solution of your problem. I try the program as you mention, MyMP4box gui, and it's true very fast.
For conversion of file H.264 from Canon or AVCHD Sony I am used with :
- WinFF for converting MP4 off-line (2Mbps).
- Eye-Frame for converting to MPEG Intra-Frame, for editing on Lightworks on Win7 64b.
- Shotcut for converting to MPEG Intra-Frame with stabilization, or many other correction.
I use also Shotcut on Mac Mavericks for converting to ProRes with basic correction, before edit it on Final Cut Pro.
For me Shotcut give very good result, seen on iMac 27", and the new stabilization is great. Working only in Play-list is very fast. And the timeline is promising.
The good news is that Lightworks 11.5 now use codec ffmpg, free version also, so we don't need transcode any more. I tried to edit directly the file Mov from Canon and AVCHD, it doesn't need to transcode, just link. That is a game changer.
greetings.

@ gary2013 : I use the program Shotcut ( http://www.shotcut.org/ ) for transcode/encode. I use on Mavericks and Windows 7.
In fact it can edit also, but still on the development. In most case many people use Premiere or Final Cut Pro, etc, but for someone need very simple cut/editing and free, this program is very good. It have many basic effect which often need : grading, gain for saturation, white balance, stabilization, etc. You can put inside H264, AVCHD and many other format and encode to ProRes, Avid DNxHD, MPEG Intra-Frame, etc. I use it to transcode  AVCHD files from Sony and H264 from Canon to ProRes with colour correction in Shotcut, and then edit on FinalCutPro, mixed other material ProRes from Ninja, some cleaning with Neat Video, it's work nice.

@ Tony : Can we put other LUT files on the folder Luts ? Is the format will be only .curve or .cube will be on the future ?
Thank you very much for this apps  ,  it's going faster and faster now 

@ Alex, I admire your instinct... you sniff the problem on the right place  as usual.
@ 1% , nanomad, dmiligan, pompeiisneaks... I am happy that you understand well also and directly implement on the camera which correspond with your development.

I don't know the programming of ML, so I always wonder with all of your works. Today I took some pictures with dual-iso. I got some pink frames but much less than before, and also because with ambiance lots of over-expose. I use the night build Feb. 10,  2014.
Once again, thank you very much for the good news and your nice collaboration.

Hi Tony,

Thank you very much for your apps. It's great.
A question arise : is the folder "Luts" for the LUT files ? Which file will be use ? .CUBE ?
The progress bar is really very useful. It's nice also the GUI, with the future function so we start to dream the road map 

Hi guys,

Hope all of you are doing well.

I have recently setup ML with the recent NB and it seems to work just fine. However, I come to shoot raw and my nightmare begins. First of all, the cropped area which makes it extremely difficult to control focusing on the subject and second of all the size. I have been researching for days for the best/recommended settings for (ML and Camera settings) to shoot raw video. I have seen people shoot with the same camera (Canon 550D) and came up with brilliant results. How did they achieve that? What was their settings? How could they get such big frame and shoot in raw?

My question would be, what are the most recommended settings in ML to use? (Reso, Buffer, FPS...etc.) I understand the other cameras can perform better but I am on a low budget now and cannot afford buying another camera. Please someone provide me with the most recommended settings or options to choose in ML.

I appreciate your help in advance! Help me bros

1. As BrotherD said, please take more time to read this thread. Most of the question already replied on the previous  messages.
2. Don't tempted to mastering directly on the top level, on every horizon. Example : RAW, Full HD 1920x1080, slow motion, time lapse, etc. I suggest to start with resolution 960x540 maximum, lower will be better. In this way you don't fill up you hard disk faster with the rubbish material from trial and error. You can make a good composition with the zoom, or as I often do : closer or farther from the subject. Keep the resolution the same, it's easier to make editing in the sequence.  If you already mastering this level, then you make higher resolution. Resolution is not the magic thing as many others think. One important note : most/all of the box office Hollywood film look great on the SD resolution, yes 720x576 with anamorphic or letterbox black line, and even with the projector still look great. There are other factor, like colour grading which play a lots, compression, camera quality and mostly the objectives, and many other reason.
3. Mastering the best work-flow according your machine and the software you use. Don't think that more expensive will be better. Think for this moment that yours is the best. Many hours will lost in this phase, I hope it will be paid with the good clip on the final version. Try to understand the other wise man said, "Retake shooting to make better/correction is better than make correction later in the computer". At least make a habit; unfortunately I still often doing correction on post-production. Speaking is easier than doing     Fortunately there are some RAW viewer now  which not the case for last year.
4. The quality of objectives or lens are very important. Often we will know the higher quality after we experienced it. When we never seen the HD film, we satisfy with the Standard Definition. Once we use many different lens we know how good picture from the good lens. It mustn't be expensive. The old analog lenses (for example Yashica 50mm 1.8, Carl Zeiss Jena 135mm, etc, I use that) which maybe you can find in eBay for 30$ are much more higher quality image than the kit lens 150$. By the way, the limitation of auto focus etc doesn't bother in video mode. Carl Zeiss make "economic lens" class also  , like Planar 1.4/50mm which I like it but still similar price with 550D. Better lens help to make less correction on computer.
5. Three things to make better film are : filming, filming and filming    By this you will notice about under expose, over expose, nice composition, etc.
6. See the blog of film maker : Vincent Laforet, Phillip Bloom, Notes on Video, NoFilmSchool, etc. There are so many places, even to get lost. But, still the most important is filming 

These are my point, and last : I am still learning like you   

Very good guide line. It will help a lots, and I think we need some more word list. Slowly it will make a new habit. 

@robschii : Try first on T2i, if it is enough then you stick, if you need full HD then 5D will be better. There are some camera rental which provide 5D with the Magic Lantern installed in it, if existed in your city that is another way to try.  All depend on the final target of the master. Please, think also the supporting work flow, hard-disk, monitor (no sense to work in full HD without good and calibrated monitor), card graphic, CPU, editing program, etc.

@adigo13 : is it safe to use nightly builds? are they stable?
I use the Magic Lantern since 3 years, and I don't have a serious problem. On the first year, sometime we need to take out the battery     but it's a kind of memories now. And since last year I use the night build on the regular work. I depend a lot with ML now  I use also another bigger camera (Sony) but with this ML I can have the menu or function on the big camera and I can go alone, without a help from other person, to bring camera, tripod, batteries, etc with excellent result as the big camera. The difficulty arrived, for me, with the work flow. But now I am happy with the program "MLV Converter" or "mlrawviewer" : they work well in my Windows 7 and MacOS Maverick.
The last thing, I am sorry that I can't guarantee that you will have trouble free. Yes, we take the risk for ourselves.

It's work great on Windows 7 - 64bit.
Now, I don't need to pass the DNG and TIFF files anymore but directly from MLV or RAW to ProRes. Even if the encoding is slow (because my computer) but still more comfortable and faster than passing DNG or TIFF, by RAWanizer, EyeFrame , Son of batch, etc; with all my respect to they who make these apps. I even try to get better conversion for resize or colour with Fast Stone on Windows 7 and Rawker (nice program for RAW even if not famous) on MacOS.
It's nice to read that there will be batch, browser... and the LUT  that is a happiness in advance. I can not do coding. I will wait patiently, in the mean time I can clean the harddisk from the RAW files witch disperse with the "mlrawviewer". Thank you very much all who make this possible.

Work very well on Windows 7 - 64bit.
The button for skin tone is really very useful. If the colour of the wall or the tree not correct is not disturbing, but the wrong colour skin is really disturbing. I know that all of you know that, just underlining 

In real life, not in studio, is not always easy and practical with the chip card, and the good moment sometime to short.
Thanks a lots Alex for the better and easier result. 

It's look great. Thank you for sharing.

It's work well on Windows 7 64bit.    Now I can clean the hard disk from low rating RAW easily.    Big thanks.

We, or me, need more detail to help you.
- Is it 10GB from the card ? Is it 10 GB after merge/append file ? If merge file, do you still have the file.RAW and file.R00, etc ?
- Which computer system do you use : Windows, Mac, Linux ?

Hope to help you.

Please watch the video : Magic Lantern 550D Raw Video Tutorial  on YouTube
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=E8Bg4E2SyRE&list=TLcJLfzGfSBNN4JOC7lZ9n0r7nZ2gAxdBk
It's give a good explanation.

Your card is good, surely enough speed for RAW on 550D.
The result, if we compare with H264 is noticeable. 
The workflow is not easy but with so many choice of utility (Rawanizer, Son of Batch, Batchelor, Raw Magic, etc) give a lots of possibility, in Windows, Mac or Linux.
Many article in forum of Magic Lantern also. Take your time to read 

I don't know if your mic is stereo. In case stereo, try also to put gain +6dB in one channel, if this channel clipping you still have other channel not clipping. Normally +6dB digital gain still acceptable. If the micro is mono, use also the internal microphone to record. Maybe you can use as a background on post production (even with the stereo effect softly), or maybe to get the noise print for the noise reduction, or backup if the main micro is clipping. One more note, find a really good cable especially if not XLR. In the long term it's important. Very often the quality of cable is under estimate.

Very beautiful, and surely useful. I like very much the battery indicator which more precise, also the Kelvin      indication.
The battery indicator from Canon is too simple, for safety (and cooler ARM) it's good to use the battery grip. But there is a moment I don't want to use the grip, because more discreet or because the stabilization, so accurate indicator for battery is very useful in the field. Thanks for the idea, and thank also the dev team    , as always, who follow up. 

Timelapse and landscape in Taizé, with new song recorded in 2012. The opening timelapse taken with Kit objective, yes 18-55mm  , on 550D and Magic Lantern give back their values  which lost in many cases. Most other images taken with analog objective 50mm and 135mm. Edited with Blender (include the simple colour correction). Picture style : Cinema by John Hope.