Messages

So you have a 60D and its working well for you?

Hello All,
I don't want to get in trouble for asking, so I searched for some time before breaking down and asking...
Does Auto ETTR work on the 60D?
How well is it working?

Is it possible to have the bulb ramping work without ML's intervalometer, but with an external intervalometer?
That way a timelapse dolly could control the shots, and ML could ramp the exposure?

That would be great.
If anybody knows where I could go to start the process of learning how to do this, that would be great.
I'm not even sure whaat picoc really is, and have no programming background...but would love to start.

Hi,
I would like to make a time lapse with focus ramping.
Is there a way that I can have the intervalometer shoot a number of shots before the focus ramping begins?

No soup for you!

I've got a sequence shot at 30 frames per second--with ML HDR.
I separated the light and dark frames so that I could use SNS-HDR to combine them (with very natural results).
Now I have half the number of frames of the same length of time.
What in your opinion is the best way to restore natural motion in After Effects?
...
I know that shooting in 60p would do the trick--but I don't like the look of 720p on the Canons...

SNS is better than the rest.

I don't know if this is related to having ML installed, but now whenever I half/press the shutter, or rotate the dial on the FRONT of the camera (by shutter button), or hit ANY button up front, (drive ISO, etc.,), the LCD instantly shuts off.
I hit 'Q', and it turns back on (or MENU, or INFO)--but as soon as I turn that diial or half-press the shutter--right back off..
I need it to remain ON.
I cannot find how to do this.
I've been looking for an hour know.
I've read the manual through, but I'm missing it.
Any assistance out there?
Thanx in advance.

Why is there a warning that says "Jitter!" if you try to set the interval for shorter than the shutterspeed?
". If you put the intervalometer to 10 seconds, ML won't take longer exposures, no matter what. That's done to avoid jitter (i.e. get smooth motion in the timelapse)."
Maybe that doesn't apply anymore?

Because it wasn't a feature request before--it was a question.
Now I know I would like to see this feature.
...
".....why not just setting intervalometer for some lower number"
Will it work properly if the interval is shorter than the shutterspeed?
Or do you just end up skipping frames and getting an uneven, jerky timelapse, like other intervalometers?
I thought the interval should always be slightly longer than the expsure Tv...

Thank you to all (Francis) who helped me before with this issue of intervalometer inntervals.
I do Astrophotography timelapses with many different lenses, meaning many different shutter speeds.
Magic Lantern skips interval choices: 9,10,12,14,15,16,18,20,25,30.......
...
I need to have intervals that are one second longer than my shutter speeds...just enough time to process the picture.
Longer delays leads to gaps--undesired for my purposes.
Francis did make one that has 26,27,28,29, and for that I am very grateful.....
But I find that I need one second intervals all through-out the range, so that gaps don't appear in my startrails, timelapses, etc.
I post this here in case some other astrophotographers might agree with me....
...
I know it means more time to scroll through the numbers, but I think the fine tuned control would be worth it.
Thank you VERY much for all that has already been done....

I don't have the ability to do any hacks....
If you are taking long exposures and using the audio trigger, it sometimes triggers again before you can get it turned off.....

How about a one-shot-then-reload Audio RemoteShot?
I love the "triple handwave" trigger on the t2i, but now on my 60d I must use audio trigger.
It will snap a bunch of pictures unless you turn it off (quietly) before it fires again--
a problem when the shutter speeds are extremely long....

Why no windshield wiper blades.
It doesn't rain where you live?

Thank you !  Thank you very much!
I will have to learn how to do that  compiling thing as well....

I wouldn't know how to do what you are asking of me.
Such intervals are VITAL for star stacking and Astrophotography.
I don't thin the time saved by not having one second increments is significant....if you want to do an interval that long, you can take the time to set it up right...
I suppose if I am the only person interested in Astrophotography intervals, then I wouldn't be opposed to customizing ML for myself...but like I said, I have no idea how I would go about doing that.

If the time the camera takes to process varies, then my timelapse wont be smooth....

Explain wht this would do ...

Honestly, I was the same way.
If you install it foollowing the instructions, you won't have a problem.
It isn't like clipping the wires on a time bomb.
Its really pretty easy.
The rewards WAY outweigh the risks.
The risk is pretty low--you won't screw it up.
Follow the directions, and if you get stuck, ask us.

Hi guys!
Just got back from my annual Perseid Meteor Shower phot trip--this time I used Magic Lantern!
To shoot the Meteor storm, I used the Intervalometr feature.
With My Tokina 11-16, I determined that the best shutter speed was 25 seconds--this is because the stars turn into streaks at shutter speeds above this.
The PROBLEM is that ML Intervalometer only goes in 5 second increments after 20s.
This means that for my 25s Tv, I need to set a Interval of 30s.
This causes GAPS to appear in my star trails--ideally I would like to set the interval for 26 or 27 seconds, depending how much time the casmera needs to process the pictures.
May not sound like much, but it is vital.
Any way to do this?
Or should I submit a feature request?

Just got a 60d off of  craigslist, and I loaded ML 2.3 RC2 July 15...
Now I have a 550d AND a 60d to test...
I am wondering why the 60d displays temperature in raw units while my 550d displays temperature in degrees Celsius...

That's too bad.

That sucks.
I really liked Movie Mode at A-Dep on my 550d....
A lot.......
At the very least, it certainly was not a "useless feature"....
......
Alas, a true risk of permanent damage is not a reasonable gamble.
I guess I'll live.

The kit lens is fine for video--learn to use it to its full potential before you go out and buy glass that is better than you are.
Besides, you won't be able to get any money from selling it.
Its a sharp lens and i wouldn't get rid of it--its quite good in a lot of situations...