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Done actually! As I said, now my black test reveals dead-pixels, and they are visible in the normal photos too. And I have an old black test that was perfect. Obviously I haven't a black test made the day before the "12800 day" (to prove that before the "12800 day" the sensor was perfect), but making a comparison between the normal photos taken the day before with those taken and the day after, it seems evident that dead-pixels appeared only from the 12800 shot (and now they are visible also at ISO 100 or so).
Anyway, again, I was simply curious about the DP common way of using the reflex for a video session, and your answers confirm that the LiveView always on, for long time, with high operating temperature, is all normal way of using the camera for video.
So, my theory is that something went wrong after gained the sensor at that level. Anyway I wrote to the Canon assistance, and we will see if they will decide for the sensor replacement or something else.

Anyway, really really thanks for all your replies and your help!

how does the first five minutes compare to the last five minutes?

The dead pixels appears at the very first frame, and - it seems to me - they remains the same up to the last frame.
I can tell two things:
1. I took some stills the day before, and in those pics I can't see any dead pixel;
2. I had never tried ISO 12800 before.
Can it be a coincidence? It seems to me that damned ISO 12800 damaged the sensor burning some of its pixels...

Want me to repeat the experiment and take some test images before and after?

You are so kind, but it's obviously not necessary: you've given to me the confirm that my way of using the camera (LiveView all the way) is common.
About camera warnings, it seems that in video-mode camera doesn't like ISO 3200 or more (so no warnings up to 1600). Also, I've noticed that higher the ISO value (and perhaps also larger the lens aperture), higher the operating temperature: this could be explained by the energy involved in ISO gain, and the amount of light (then heat) on the sensor at larger aperture. In fact, at ISO 100 and f/4.5 the operating temperature remains around 46-47°, while at ISO 400 and f/1.4 the operating temperature rapidly rises to 52-55° (yellow warning).

Just curious if someone can confirm (for experience) that 52° is common during shooting and safe for the sensor.

N.B. The temperature information I refer to is the one included in the ML overlays.

Thanks a lot

If there are issues like "cooking" with higher temperatures/long time use we should have heard about it. Lots of. Shitstorms and class suit stuff included. We haven't.

So, do you confirm that my way of operating (again, long time with LiveView ON, or with ext. viewfinder always on, and 52-55°) is a normal/common way of operating?

Thanks a lot.

i can ensure you, ML isn't causing any defects to your sensor. [...] if the things you did really caused some dead pixels to pop up during LV, they would have also appeared without ML.

Hey guys, I absolutely agree about that!!!
Let me explain better: I DON'T SAY that ML coocked my sensor! NOT AT ALL!!! (I love ML!) Instead, I'm saying that something in MY WAY of camera operating cooked my sensor (the title of this topic is "the sad story of a stupid DP"!)
I'm simply trying to understand if you think that a long-long time (2 hours uninterruptedly) of LiveView can damage the sensor. (Can it be?) Or if the super-high ISO can. (Can it be?) Or if the high camera's operating temperature can. (Again, can it be?)
These are three simple questions that have nothing to do directly with ML, but we know that ML-guys (you in this forum) install ML mainly for video, right? So, I think that you probably are video-oriented DPs or camera-operators, right? So, my question is simply: during your test-sessions - let image a long test-session in a set that you want to "explore" - do you usually use LiveView always on? For long time uninterruptedly? Without fear of damaging your sensor? OR you have a method (a way to operate, a trick, a tip...) to save your sensor?

That's the sense of my question.

Really thank you so much for your help.

Thank you for your replies.

I just took 4 black stills (cap on lens) WITHOUT Magic Lantern (using a blank SDHC formatted in-camera) at low ISO (tested 100, 800, 3200), and unfortunately the dead pixels are still there, even at 100 ISO...
I can count 10 dead pixels or so.
(If you really want to verify it, I can upload the 4 shots tomorrow because here in Italy uploading is very slow.)

Of course I can remap dead pixels via "manual cleaning sensor" method, but this method doesn't resuscitate dead pixels, simply it maps dead pixels to "mute" them and substitute them with interpolated values. It's a good trick (or a good palliative) to patch up a "troubled" sensor for continuing working.
Being under warranty, I'm thinking of asking for a sensor replacement, I'll see...

Anyway, I'd really like to understand how to avoid getting worse with my camera and to avoid cooking a possible new sensor (or maybe a future new 5D3). What is your work-method when you need to keep the camera working for a long time uninterruptedly? (i.e. when you need to see the scene through the camera for a long time uninterruptedly?)

(From your replies - thanks for your help - It seems that you don't think a very high ISO, or the high temperature, or the long time sensor exposure can damage a sensor, isn't it?)

Thanks really a lot.

Please, I really need your advices, guys. The title of this story is "Red Dots FOR MY BAD".

This is the plot:
Yesterday I had my first real-&-long RAW-video session with 5D3 + Magic Lantern. It was early morning, I had no extra light, then I saw nothing via viewfinder (an HDMI external Ikan) so I decided to crank up the camera ISO to 12800 just to see the scene, finding the positions, the POVs, etc. (in video mode, 5D3 alerts you if you use ISO >1600 i.e. the white number turns yellow-bold on camera's screen, but I didn't know why). The temperature was very high 52-55° (again yellow-bold alert, but again I didn't know the consequences). I used in this way the camera for a couple of hours uninterruptedly (always ext. viewfinder on, always ISO 12800...) that is a long time (!), in fact I didn't use batteries but the DC-power-false-battery adapter.

Result: once transferred the video-tests on the computer, since the very first video I saw many red dots, in other words I cooked the sensor. In fact I made some tests (stills at low ISO with the lens cap on) and I recognized a lot of dead pixels (...a lot...) End of the story.

Questions:

1. In this very sad "Italian neorealism" story there are 3 components:
A) Super-high ISO;
B) Very long time with viewfinder opened (i.e. sensor exposed);
C) Too high camera's operating temperature.
The 1st question is: which of these components caused dead pixels? I can simply say that if the very first shot had red dots, this means that 12800 ISO is sufficient to cook the sensor. BUT at this point I wonder if the other two components could ALSO take part the sensor's damage? Is it possible in your opinion/experience?

2. You are experts of using 5D3+ML for RAW-video shooting, so my 2nd question is: which is the correct behavior of the DSLR video-operator for working with the camera without cooking its sensor? Well, obviously not cranking up ISO, now I understand that, but seriously which are your advices to use safely the 5D3 during a video production session? Perhaps using the camera's eyepiece all the test-time, and open the sensor (use the viewfinder) only for the definitive shot?

Thanks really a lot for your help (I need it, in these days of sorrow...)

Hi everyone,

I've found many conflicting infos about which is the resolution from the HDMI of a 5D3 during internal RAW recording.
Can you help me, please? Because I'm going to buy a 7" monitor just for focusing, and I thought Ikan DH7, but it's 1920*1200 and perhaps it's an unecessary resolution...

Anyway, what is in your opinion the best on-camera 7/8" monitor for 5D3-ML under 500€ (with zebra, histogram, peaking, false color...)?

Thanks a lot for your help.

You are a super-fast guru Garry.
Thanks!

When you staking, the values of the 2 ND are summed or multiplied?
If for example I have 0.6 + 1.2, they are equal 1.8?

Again, Thanks!

Thanks for your reply,

if I use 2 different fixed-NDs together, this will give the same X-issue of the VNDs or not?

Thanks for the help.

P.S. Just a doubt: you say that the problem refers Wide Lenses, so...
1. With a 35mm is better to use fixed ND filters;
2. With a 85mm I can safely use a good VND.

That's right?

Thanks guys!
So, I can go for a regular Tiffen VND without worring about IRVND rare variant.
Thanks

Hi everyone,
when I considered to buy a BlackMagic camera I've read about IR issue using VND filters. That issue could be solved using an IRVND filter instead.
But finally - thanks to you guys! - I decided to go for a 5D3 with MagicLantern (and I'm so happy about that choice!)

Now I simply need to know if - doing RAW video - my 5D3+ML needs an IRVND, or if I can use a normal VND without problems?

Thanks for your help.

P.S. Tiffen or Promaster? (Because on one VND by Tiffen I noticed an X effect...)

I understand. Very clear as usual, Danne.

And cr2hdr_steroid (the 16bit version) has the same functions as cr2hdr.app (14bit version)?

Thanks a lot.

It's all very clear now, thanks a lot Danne!

Just curious: about 14bit-DNG from cr2hdr.app, you say...

The files are still 14bit when using cr2hdr.app. But there is a version which outputs 16bit. Those two extra bits are not giving any extra info so you know.

My question is: if the two extra bits adding nothing, why making a specific version of the app that outputs 16bit-DNG? Having 2 bits more with no information is useful for what?

Thanks again.

Dear Danne, you are really kind: your answers are very complete. Thanks for your time.

I think I understand all.
Perhaps just a couple of doubts on the 1st question about DNG and curves:

1. If I understand correctly, mlv-RAW 14bit files contain more information than visible via sRGB or rec709, so to see the extra information I have to move from sRGB/rec709 to a more convenient logC/Clog/etc. Is that right?

2. If so, MlRawViewer gives the possibility to change the curve of the mlv-RAW files, so with that app I can export logC-DNG or Clog-DNG etc. If I understand correctly, this is a way to handle - later in Davinci - a DNG full of information (if compared to sRGB-DNG). Another option is simply to convert mlv-RAW into DNG without touching the color curve, then import the DNG in Davinci and only at this point choose BlackmagicDesign as Color Space (in Camera Raw) to recover more information and start to grade. Then my question is: which is the best method to handle more information in Davinci? Converting mlv-RAW into a log-DNG (changing the curve and converting with MlRawViewer), or simply convert mlv-RAW into DNG whitout any curve change (with cr2hdr) in order to apply the Blackmagic Color Space in Davinci? (I think this is a workflow question.)

3. Very last question: with cr2hdr.app, the 14bit mlv-RAW is converted into a 16bit DNG, right?

Super thanks.

[does this mean that the original curve is sRGB?]

Thank all of you SO much men! You save my day. And I'm honored of using your brilliant piece of code.

1. About my question on MlRawViewer's curves: this app let you choose a color curve (linear, log-C, sRGB, etc.). I think I prefer to make all the color changes later in Davinci, so I suppose it's better for me in this step to maintain the original curve of the original shot (right?) But which is the original curve? I use a Canon 5D3 and I've simply read in the Canon menu that the color space is set to sRGB: does this mean that the original curve is sRGB?

2. Anyway, if I simply use MlRawViewer as a viewer (before converting with cr2hdr4Sierra) no curves should be applied to the final conversion (later with cr2hdr4Sierra), right?

3. Now let say that I have the same basic purpose (mlv-RAW without audio to DNG with original white balance, orig. curve, removing vertical stripes) BUT this time with dualiso footage, I simply avoid to select (10) disable dualiso automation, and that's all, right?;

4. Can this app convert also dualiso photos or only dualiso videos?

5. Do you confirm that I have simply to keep Adobe-DNG-Converter installed, without touching/setting it?

6.

keep in mind depending on which DSLR you use you may want to push white levels higher for more highlight recovery for 5D3.

I use 5D3, so which is a good value to set this option?

Again, thank all of you SO much.

[A) maintaining the original white balance, B) fixing the vertical stripes, C) untouching the original shot's color curve]

Hi everyone,
I'm pretty new as MagicLantern user, and up to now I admit that I simply used RAWMagic for converting mlv-RAW (no audio) into DNG. RAWMagic did the job A) maintaining the original white balance, B) fixing the vertical stripes, C) untouching the original shot's color curve. This is what I need. Because unfortunally, since I've changed my computer to a Sierra Hackintosh, RAWMagic stopped working (crashing on startup).

So I'm searching for a new app that does the same things. DeafEyeJedi said to me about Danne's cr2hdr for Sierra. I tried to open it, but it seems a lot articulated for me, so I'd need a very basic guide, please: as I said I simply need to convert mlv-RAW (no audio) into DNG for Davinci, maintaining the original white balance, fixing the vertical stripes, and untouching the original shot's color curve.
So, please, tell me if I'm wrong:
1. I select the folder with dual-iso and also NOT-dualiso .mlv (no audio) footage, because the app works for both, right?;
2. In order to obtain CinemaDNG output I must choose (m) mlv_dump, right?;
3. Having NON-dualiso footage, I choose (10) disable dualiso automation, right?;
4. NOT setting the black/white levels, and simply having Adobe DNG Converted installed, I will obtain a DNG conversion with the original white balance of the original shot, right?;
5. I don't understand (07) disable stripes etc. If NOT chosen, the app will always correct the vertical stripes issues of the original shots or not?
6. Is it necessary to add (01) no chroma smoothing to obtain an original-like conversion?
7. My doubt about the curves remains: does the app maintain the original curve of the original shot, or does it set a custom curve based on MlRawViewer setting?

Please, kindly confirm if I'm right or wrong.

Thanks everyone really much.

I moved my questions on the original Danne's topic.

[and also NOT-dual-iso]

Thanks for your reply.
This app version seems pretty articulated... so tell me if I'm wrong:
1. I select the folder with dual-iso and also NOT-dual-iso .mlv (no audio) footage (right?);
2. In order to obtain CinemaDNG output I must choose (m) mlv_dump (righ?);
3. Having NON-dualiso footage, I choose (10) disable dualiso automation (right?);
4. I don't set b/w level, and simply having Adobe DNG Converted installed I will obtain a DNG conversion with the original W.Balance of the original shot (right?);
5. I don't understand (07) disable stripes... if NOT chosen, will always correct the vertical stripes issues of the original shots?
6. It it necessary to add (01) no chroma smoothing to obtain an original-like conversion?
7. My doubt about the curves remains: does the app maintain the original curve of the original shot, or does it set a custom curve based on MlRawViewer setting?

[---If you know how to solve this issue, please help, thanks.---]

Hi everyone,
I'm pretty new to MagicLantern, I've read a lot of pages about utilities to convert MLV RAW (no audio) into DNG, but there are so many apps and so many versions... I'm confused and I'd like to make a clear point about it. Could you help me, please?

Let start saying that I work with an Hackintosh (Nvidia GPU) and OSX 10.12.3 Sierra.
Up to now (similar Hackintosh with Yosemite) I've always used simply RAWMagic to convert mvl RAW (no audio) into DNG, but since I use Sierra the app crashes always on startup.
---If you know how to solve this issue, please help, thanks.---

So I decide to move to another app: MlRawViewer or raw2dng. Raw2dng 0.13 can't load my mlv RAW files (?), instead it seems that 0.9 version can do. I also tried MlRawViewer 1.4.3 and I've noticed that the White Balance seems to be NOT the same as the original shot, so here I have some question:
1. About both raw2dng and MlRawViewer: do I need to install Adobe DNG Converter? And if so, do I simply need to install it, or should I use it in someway? And once installed, do the 2 apps respect the original White Balance? (RAWMagic had an autodetect WB function.)
2. RAWMagic had a vertical stripes correction function: it seems that MlRawViewer has it too (right?), but what about raw2dng?
3. MlRawViewer is the only one that asks me to set the color curve (linear, log-C, sRGB, etc.). I think I prefer to make all the color changes later in Davinci, so I suppose it's better in this step to maintain the original curve of the original shot (right?) But which is the original curve? I use a Canon 5D3 and I've semply noticed in the Canon menu that the color space is set to sRGB: does this mean that the original curve is sRGB?

Just one last question about cr2hdr: it should convert dual-iso RAW shots into hdr-DNG files, but searching this app I've found a couple of different (but homonymous) apps: the first appears like an
automator app (cr2hdr for mac OS Sierra) and it seems to require Adobe DNG Converter (just ADC installation?), while the second (always named cr2hdr) has an icon where you can see an arm and half a t-shirt. Also this last needs ADC installed? And which is the best app? Which one has vertical stripes function AND maintains the original White Balance of the shot?

Thanks really a lot for your help.

Hi everybody,
I've read all this topic and I admit that I'm a bit confuse:
I'm simply looking for a 7" external monitor for my 5D3 fw 1.2.3 + ML. My needs are:
1. using the external HDMI monitor while recording MLV_raw+audio without loosing frames (consider that the gimbal I would buy - the Moza Lite2 - is connected to the 5D3 via USB);
2. recording at 1920*1080 @ 24fps, and seeing it on the external monitor without latency at the same frame-rate of 24fps (but better if at a lower resolution, like 720p);
3. possibly having the ML overlays on the external monitor;
4. if not, having at least a good internal focus peaking;
5. possibly a good internal zebra;
6. a lightweight monitor model (possibly not over 450gr).

I'd like the Lilliput 664/O/P but on their chart of supported models it seems that 664 doesn't support 720p/24Hz (http://lilliputdirect.com/index.php?_route_=supported-hdmi-modes)

So I'm in doubt (I'm a newbie here), and I decided to wait for someone that could suggest any tested monitor model that possibly fits my six points.

Thanks really really much for your help.

P.S. Please, could you suggest also a 5" version monitor that matches my six needs? (Thanks again.)

Hi everybody,
I can't find a solution to this Magic Lantern issue:
I had a movie recording stopped automagically message (when I tried to shoot in crop mode).
This is my set:
-firmware downgraded to 1.2.3;
-2015Apr28 Nightly Built;
-SanDisk Extreme Pro CF 256GB (ExFAT formatted via OSX Utility Disc - NOT in camera) and this is the UNIQUE card in the camera (ML files are stored in the root directory) so the card is in SLOT 1 (so no Low Level Format option possible);
-Canon Menu: Movie rec. size 1920x1080 24p ALL-I;
-Magnification: x5 (ISO and STOPS change into red on the screen);
-ML Menu: Movie > RAW video ON, 3584x1320;
-lens: 35mm f/2.0 IS USM (in ManualFocus mode, but with stabilizer ON).
I press Start button (camera icon on the screen is red) and immediately arrives the message: movie recording stopped automagically.

I tried other resolutions (always with x5 magnification): 2048x1152 gives me 8 or 9 seconds, then again the stopping message (ISO, STOPS and Camera icons always red).

I tried also 1920*1080 in crop mode: 30 seconds with Camera icon yellow, after that icon becomes red, and at 40 seconds again the stopping message.

Only in FullFrame mode (simply without magnification activated) the Camera icon is green and all works fine.

What could be the issue in crop mode? Perhaps the CF card is not fast enough? (But it declares 150MB/s writing.) Could it be the NOT-in-camera formatting method I used? Perhaps 256GB is too much for the CF card? Could it be something I didn't set correclty in ML menu? Something else?

Please, I hope you want to help me. Thank you so much.

Hi all, I'm new here.
It's my first day with Magic Lantern into my 5D3, and I had a movie recording stopped automagically message (when I tried to shoot in crop mode) and I immediately suspected the CF card...
This is my set:
-firmware downgraded to 1.2.3;
-2015Apr28 Nightly Built;
-SanDisk Extreme Pro CF 256GB (ExFAT formatted via OSX Utility Disc - NOT in camera) and this is the UNIQUE card in the camera (ML files are stored in the root directory) so the card is in SLOT 1 (so no Low Level Format option possible);
-Canon Menu: Movie rec. size 1920x1080 24p ALL-I;
-Magnification: x5 (ISO and STOPS change into red on the screen);
-ML Menu: Movie > RAW video ON, 3584x1320;
-lens: 35mm f/2.0 IS USM (in ManualFocus mode, but with stabilizer ON).
I press Start button (camera icon on the screen is red) and immediately arrives the message: movie recording stopped automagically.

I tried other resolutions (always with x5 magnification): 2048x1152 gives me 8 or 9 seconds, then again the stopping message (ISO, STOPS and Camera icons always red).

I tried also 1920*1080 in crop mode: 30 seconds with Camera icon yellow, after that icon becomes red, and at 40 seconds again the stopping message.

In FullFrame mode (simply without magnification activated) the Camera icon is green and all works fine.

What could be the issue in crop mode? Perhaps the CF card is not fast enough? (But it declares 150MB/s writing.) Could it be the NOT-in-camera formatting method I used? Perhaps 256GB is too much for the CF card? Could it be something I didn't set correclty in ML menu? Something else?

Please, I hope you want to help me. Thanks.

Hi everyone, I'm new here.
It's my first day with Magic Lantern into my 5D3, and I had a movie recording stopped automagically message (when I tried to shoot in crop mode).
This is my set:
-firmware downgraded to 1.2.3;
-2015Apr28 Nightly Built;
-SanDisk Extreme Pro CF 256GB (ExFAT formatted via OSX Utility Disc - NOT in camera) and this is the UNIQUE card in the camera (ML files are stored in the root directory) so the card is in SLOT 1 (so no Low Level Format option possible);
-Canon Menu: Movie rec. size 1920x1080 24p ALL-I;
-Magnification: x5 (ISO and STOPS change into red on the screen);
-ML Menu: Movie > RAW video ON, 3584x1320;
-lens: 35mm f/2.0 IS USM (in ManualFocus mode, but with stabilizer ON).
I press Start button (camera icon on the screen is red) and immediately arrives the message: movie recording stopped automagically.

I tried other resolutions (always with x5 magnification): 2048x1152 gives me 8 or 9 seconds, then again the stopping message (ISO, STOPS and Camera icons always red).

I tried also 1920*1080 in crop mode: 30 seconds with Camera icon yellow, after that icon becomes red, and at 40 seconds again the stopping message.

In FullFrame mode (simply without magnification activated) the Camera icon is green and all works fine.

What could be the issue in crop mode? Perhaps the CF card is not fast enough? (But it declares 150MB/s writing.) Could it be the NOT-in-camera formatting method I used? Perhaps 256GB is too much for the CF card? Could it be something I didn't set correclty in ML menu? Something else?

Please, I hope you want to help me. Thanks.