Messages

If you replace the menuidx.dat you can't use the documentary anymore....better said it starts always with 404 and on the next page its the documentary's first page

Is it possible that Magic Lantern recognizes the difference between the signal of an IR-remote control and the shutter button?


Because I was doing some intervalometer shots, the camera set to "10s self-timer / IR remote" because I wanted to start the intervalometer with my remote control.

When Intervalometer is off the camera instantly takes a picture as soon as I press the IR remote button, self timer starts when I use the camera shutter button.

With intervalometer on the self timer starts counting down and continues doing so with every further picture, no matter if I use IR remote or shutter button.


So can it be done that when the camera receives an IR signal that the self timer won't start when intervalometer is activated and that this value will be saved as long as intervalometer is running?  (to prevent the self timer from counting down before every picture?)


I hope someone understands what I mean, sorry for my english.

(Camera is a 550D)


Cheers

Merry Christmas to all of you, I thought it would be nice to share some Christmas- and ML related pictures.


First one is my mum's Christmas tree, very little ML influence since I only used the Wave remote function (M / f14 / ISO 100 / 15 sec)





second one is an HDR of the nativity scene with ~70 years old figurines.  7 picture Auto bracketing with wave remote, merged with LR/ Enfuse for Lightroom (for anyone who doesn't know about it yet, the HDR coming from LR/ Enfuse are pretty nice naturally looking!)




I edited them on my shabby laptop, I hope they are bright enough and that the WB isnt to warm (the Display isnt the best)

will try it out thanks

yes this I know, but as soon as something moves during the scanning process (like clouds, cars, people) you'll get a mosaic style picture out of it.

this is what I don't understand.

Hey,

maybe I'm just confused about the documentation about this feature + I'm not a pro, just started with photography this year, but I'm struggeling to understand how you could to a timelapse with the High Res silent pic function.

yes, I know we're intended to use FPS override (which works for me although I don't know what every option is for) but since I like to try out things it'd be nice to know how making silent pic timelapse in High res is possible or not.


there's no problem with the lower resolution silent pics or in burst mode....creating 422 files, converting them into jpegs, easy.

but since in High Res mode the information comes in i.e. 5x5 steps from the LV buffer, how is timelapse possible with this?


as already mentioned, maybe I got the documentation wrong where it  says in High Res mode you can make a timelapse with it.

sorry for my english

tried it with my 550d, I can confirm it not working with Timer mode.

Enabling AutoMLU together with Timer works as usual, so if it's intended that Timer mode is not working with Anti-Shake-MLU, using Timer withAuto MLU still does the trick.

MF works everytime with the delay time set up in ML menu from locking up the mirror to taking the picture.


with AF enabled sometimes it works.....most of the time it doesn't. I can't reproduce everything that happens.

Pressing LV often just lets the lens focus then stop.

Or focus and MLU but not taking a picture--->only full shutter press makes the camera operable again and takes a pic.

and in 3 of 10 cases it takes a picture.

I can confirm this....tbh, I never noticed that :-)

1. lol long read. I'll try to get through it tomorrow

2. Ok

3. No I didnt :-D  But I think now I know what its for

thanks

1. if you use uniwb, it's obvious

2. it doesn't take pics

3. http://www.magiclantern.fm/forum/index.php?topic=2887.0

4. requested many times; tip: combine with gradual exposure

5. see 60D/5D2 manual from Canon

1.  I feel like a noobier noob that I am, but tbh, I don't see any difference in LV, no matter what value I chose or if I turned it off (good idea by turning it off?)

2. I does, that's why I was asking xD  I set it on Beeb & blink but the camera moves the mirror and saves the pic to SD as usual

3. thanks, will read through ----> EDIT: Ok that sounds legit. Have to try it out once I think the moment has come.

4. ok, I'm not seeing it (yet) what I could use it for. maybe when I'm more familiar with some photography methods

5. Check, thanks ;-)

[Uni WB Correct]

Hey,

yesterday I installed for the first time since 2.3 release one of the nightlys, updated to the actual version today.

I found some features I really have no idea of what they do and I hope this is the right place to ask. If not, I'm sorry.


First one is

Uni WB Correct which can be found in DISPLAY --> Advanced Settings


Second one is

Snap Simulation in the DEBUG menu


Third one is

Expo Lock in the EXPO menu........I understand you can activate and deactivate several things in its sub menu, but not really getting what I could use that function for?


Fourth one is

Expo Presets also in the EXPO menu.....ok, switching between two sets of expo presets......but what for?



Fifth one which I'm quite embarrased about to ask and is not a particular feature of the nightly builds

LV Display in the EXPO menu.  I'm not seeing any difference in LV when I turn Exp Sim on or off :-/


Thanks for any help

visited some random car meet announced via Facebook and went for some ML HDR shots, more to come in ~1 week, have to finish vacation first to get to my desktop PC, laptop isnt fast enough

ok I though you were just refering to the plain ML HDR thing, I never tried to run any script (has to learn alot of othe rthings first lol)

nope thats not what ML does with the HDR function

its just an easier way to shoot a series of pictures which you have to edit as usual with the software you have.


ML HDR lets you decide what kind of exposure steps you want and what kind of aperture.

I use ISO 100, in most situations shooting in AV mode is enough, but if you're expecting exposure times longer than your camera can do (my 550d can expose 30 seconds max) you might switch to Bulb mode. I dont know the 5D so maybe theres an extra mode for it.

in HDR AUTO mode, ML then decides how many pictures should be taken and how long the exposure has to be. mostly it works good, there's at least one very overexposed shot when its done, usually the last one, sometimes I don't use it beceause you can't see any details.

its a way quicker way than setting up your camera for bracketing by hand + it enables automaticly the 2 second trigger timer which you would also have to activate by yourself.

I dont use Canon bracketing anymore.

For preview you can hold the SET button in playmode and use the wheel to join the pictures together for a kind of HDR preview but thats just nice to have. (read manual)

thats a HDR I made without thinking alot, turned out quite nice I guess. had to drop the car with photoshop because it sits on stock springs

https://fbcdn-sphotos-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-snc7/412475_10151052321904648_1956608954_o.jpg


If you're looking for ML making your pics an HDR by itself, I have to disapoint you....but its up to you how you think your HDR should look like, isnt it ? ;-)

do you have any software like Adobe Lightroom, Photoshop and Photomatix? (so any piece of software that can process RAW files)

there are several ways......

Ok thanks!!

Hi,

since ML 2.3 RC it seems there's no counter for the time that has elapsed when bulb timer has started on my EOS 550D

with the May release theres was the time counting up on the LV display, giving you an idea how many seconds of the exposure time has elapsed so far.

was there a problem with it or anything because I couldnt find anything according to this.

would be nice to have it back.

Thanks.

I had to correct my workaround post (which was pre-RC1) when the 2.3 RC were released

-->you had to set Exp Override on AUTO to get Auto ISO working in FPS override movie mode

-->after you set ISO to Auto, "Exp Override Auto ON" set itself back to "Auto OFF"

-->now with the 2.3 RC you just turn Auto ISO on and thats it

oh , I mean't "you mustn't".


sorry for the confusion, mixed it up, english isnt my first language

Now running ML 2.3 RC3 (works good so far) and noticed there were some changes with Auto ISO and Exposure Override.

see here, entry 2,3 and 4

https://bitbucket.org/hudson/magic-lantern/changesets/tip/keyword%28%27auto%27%29%20and%20keyword%28%27iso%27%29


the poor people bulb ramping still works in FPS override, you just can't turn on Exposure Override.

I don't film much so I can't say anything reliable about the consequenzes when you cannot turn on Exp Ovr, and because the weather over here is just drist grey sky atm and theres nothing else to film, I can't test anything right now -.-

mh didn't think about that.

its not mandatory to add a WBShift Function, would be nice though if it was possible somehow.


but since most people (including me) shoot Raw pictures anyways, WBshift can be changed afterwards......

Hi,

when I let ML set the WB automaticly it sometimes raises the WB Shift for Green or Magenta.

But when I turn the WB back to Canon Auto WB, the WB shift value won't reset to 0, so I have to go to ML menu and decrease it to 0 by hand.

I was using ML May 30th and RC2 on my EOS 550D

-Auto adjust WB by using the ML funtion (AV button, Set WB)

-keep doing so until ML raises the shift value for either magenta or green

-turn Canon Auto WB on

-magenta or green value is still being displayed on the screen, go to ML menu to turn it back to 0.


Would be nice if the magenta / green value would jump back to 0 when turning Canon Auto WB on.

Sorry for my english.

Cheers,
sutobe

hey thanks for keep on trying to help me with this lol

I'll try this later and give feedback.

Ok now this isn't working for me as well.

Both strips have dark frames.....processed video consists of the dark sections only.

-When I change strobe value from the duplicated strip back to 1 it switches dark / bright again. If I leave it on 2 (like I did with the first strip) it stays dark.

-"Trim start value" is actually the "Start Frame", right?

-whats "preset transition"?   Opacity maybe?

-Mix value?


I'd be happy if you could name the functions like they are named in the programm because I'm getting nowhere.

with the first tutorials the pictures aren't synchronized (one layer moving way faster than the other), with the third tutorial its only dark frames.

did exactly as described, something doesn't seem to be right


thanks