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High ISO speed NR: standard, low, high, disable.
Long exp noise reduction: disable, auto enable.

HDR and multi expo don't seem to have any effect (167 in LV, 243 outside).

Edit: I've tried to allocate it outside LV and it seems to stay allocated. Cool!

I couldn't find it.

@AnotherDave: you need to set picture quality to RAW (not jpeg or whatever else).

You had wrong settings from the beginning

Bulb ramping is history, use ETTR + post deflicker instead: http://www.magiclantern.fm/forum/index.php?topic=5705.msg41478#msg41478

Yes, use ETTR + post deflicker.

http://www.magiclantern.fm/forum/index.php?topic=5705.msg41478#msg41478

I didn't have a chance to try it yet outside though, but on the 50 test frames I've tried for testing, there was zero flicker (even if the actual exposures were 4 stops apart).

Huh? these are normal numbers for 5D3 (M mode, RAW)

Here's a google docs version that you can edit (I've hijacked the first post):

https://docs.google.com/spreadsheet/ccc?key=0AgQ2MOkAZTFHdFFIcFp1d0R5TzVPTVJXOEVyUndteGc#gid=5

Buffer size is displayed when you hit record (e.g. 32+32+32+32 = 32x4).

For powersave I would add only a warning in menu.

Zoom is horizontal resolution from a CR2 / horizontal resolution of the video. Do the math.

You can also upload a small clip (not more than 100MB though, since my net connection is limited).

Is this with current nightly or with something ancient from last week or so?

Buffer size: average on 5D3 (4x32). 60D is the leader here (almost 9x32), so it can record for a few seconds at max resolution.

Speed: 5D3 has around 90 (100+ is only in photo mode), 5D2/50D have around 60, 6D has around 40.

Resolution: 5D3 does full 1920x1080, I think some users reported even 1920x1280 (not sure if continuous). In crop mode, it goes to around 3584x1320 or something like this, for a few seconds.

Aliasing: almost none on 5D3, bad on all others.

Low light: 6D, 5D3, 5D2, all others.

7D should be red.

Also add the 500D.

Would be nice to have a spreadsheet that we can edit.

Auto ETTR is not even fully optimized; with HDR video tricks it's possible to make it almost instant (1-3 LiveView frames, that means settling in under 0.1 seconds, or 0.2 when hunting).

Sorting might help with very small buffers when you have to write 100-200 frames or so (e.g. a particular write speed may work better with a particular buffer order), but will not help at all for continuous recording. Use my python script and run some simulations.

You can't ifdef in raw_rec, and 1MB squeeze at the cost of maybe not working at all... I wouldn't recommend.

Remove the lens and use some compressed air to clear it. Just be careful not to blow up the firmware.

This complicates things a lot (if you noticed, selecting width also adjusts height now). Why not just add 4:1 or something?

Possible. 8MB buffers are slowing down stuff on high-end cameras though.

Did you try this tool? https://bitbucket.org/hudson/magic-lantern/src/tip/modules/raw_rec/speedsim.py

Sometimes the code becomes too complex to maintain, and old hacks have to go. I'd rather keep something that works really well, than have the menu full with all sorts of kludges. Don't forget that ML is a tool for power users.

Bulb ramping disappeared in the same way, even if I've worked two years on optimizing the algorithms. Reason: ETTR + post deflicker is completely flicker-free and the algorithm is really simple and robust.

422 silent pics also disappeared because DNGs are much better (both image quality and software support). Sure, the matrix mode is still missing, but totally possible to reimplement (just not a priority for me).

For manual lenses, what's stopping you from setting 1/250 in the ETTR menu?

Just reimplement it as a module. I'm not willing to maintain it any more.

LOL

ML auto ISO is already out from the repo.

If you shoot jpeg, ML is probably not for you. Try a point and shoot camera

Auto ISO uses Canon's auto exposure algorithm, and I find it very unreliable.

Possible, but I won't implement it

( did you check the display menu? )

...hold SET and turn the main dial (wheel)

If you can't follow these simple instructions, I'm afraid you have to go back to Canon firmware (or get a point and shoot camera?)

Before patching errors, make sure you fully understand what you are doing. If you brick the camera, you get to keep both pieces. If you brick other user's cameras, they will blame ML.

patching asserts is like putting a tube on your open wound so you don't see yourself bleeding to death anymore
(but you're still bleeding to death)