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Ive been biting my tongue. But here goes a little bit.

Ive seen great video shot on a 550D, h264, and with very little gear.  Check out the link, and "Portrait of Macerata" clip at the bottom.  The other clips he explains how he did it with very little gear.
http://philipbloom.net/2013/09/13/part3/

Ive seen great video shot with a 600D, H264 with just a monopod as in the clip bellow.  Thes guys have a whack of tutorials on how to shoot cinematic with DSLRs.
https://vimeo.com/51671122

Ive seen great video shot on a 60D in H264.
https://vimeo.com/15529823

So aps-c H264 is extremely competent.

Dont tell me the 5DMIII is crap compared to a GH4.  The GH4 is a different tool.  You can shoot 4k also on a galaxy not phone camera that's sharper than a 5DMIII ... so what?
Cinematic film, rarely needs a 4K sharpness infact most cinematographers soft focus more often than sharpen for film. 
The skin tones on a GH4 always suck, and its bokeh is ugly.  Its just not that kind of tool, its well lit master shots are great. Its DR in the well lit master shot is great.
You can crop it in post great.    The 5DIII bokeh, low light noise, shallow DOF, RAW colour, are all fabulous with right glass/skill. 
And for general 35mm film, the aps-c sensor size sensor is the king, its what's in a RED ONE. 
Film set guys complain about the FF cameras, because the DOF is so shallow, it requires a lot of takes to nail it.
You want to get it done, an aps-c camera is your bread and butter.   
I like all three of these 70D, GH4, and 5DIII but each for its own strength, neither does it all. 

Walter is right, sorry for tangential stuff. 

70D has the 3X crop in video mode, just like the 600D. 

X-State I like your tests.  So the last one with noise reduced,
whats the res, & how long could you shoot at that res.?

DV the journey of 1000miles, starts with the first step.  Here's an approach to consider.
1. What's the best upgrade chance?  Either 7DII, 50D, or 5DII. 
2. Get pics and measurements for all the three boards.  This is research by asking tech supports who sell the parts, for info. before you purchase.
3. Ask a tech support  for their opinion?  They probably have thought about this already, and may be able to point out any obvious pitfall.
4. Now if all is good, buy the one that fits into your 700D (for instance), the PCBs I found were not that expensive.  You may even want the tech support guy to do the install or write out the steps he would follow??? 
This is to minimize the risk, if you like H/w exploration you will eventually have to crack open a camera.
5. As for programming, that is probably not needed and if so that's what the ML team can handle.

Sorry Im too busy and have a shooting schedule for next few months. 
Besides I would want to upgrade a 600D, as that would be pure hacker glory to have it shoot FHD raw.  JM2C.

I think the time to explore the dual write s/w upgrade is after ML works reliably on the 70D.  Which I hope nightly drops soon occupy me. 

I'm not into unicorn chasing, but by buying and inspecting/measuring/dissecting/identifying component elements/chips for a few fast SD PCBs one might be able to make more informed conclusions.

DV did say he liked to play with hardware ...

AK you have raised a good point, one I have been wondering about.
Could one swap a 700D PCB for SD card into a 600D, and upgrade it to 40MB/s
But why stop there, why not try and swap a 50D or 7D PCB to get into a CF card? (assume one cuts into the body for the access?)

Then there is the 5DMarkII which in many physical size respects is similar to the 70D.
Could one swap its 80 MB/s PCB CF card ?
Even if the swapped in card in not fully maxed, would one get an improvement in raw video res., until max. limited by the bus or cpu?

I think if one were to buy a slew of these one could start determining do you need the whole card or can you just get a chip or just what?
We do know that Canon gimps models and reuses a lot architecture, so there is reason to expect some success in these swaps.

DV you may want to buy a spare SD card part first, and disect/ discover the components and PCB pin layout ... just a thought before you rip into your camera.
Here is a few for a 600D which I had been thinking to investigate.

http://www.cameraspareparts.co.uk/pcb-assembly-sd-card-for-canon-eos-600d-dslr-camera-5972-p.asp

http://www.dhcameras.com/canon-eos-600d-eos-rebel-t3i-eos-kiss-x5-sd-board-pcb-memeory-card-part-new/

Ok still thinking outside the box here:
It seems that 70D should have dual processor power, for its AF system.

If you put it in MF, then there is a lot less going on with the processors.
So it seems that if you load up one processor sends to the EDMAC to write to the card at 40 MB/s
Then with the other processor you write to the USB, now the only bottle neck is the bus. 

I did read in some article a 50MB/s bus limit, but you know I haven't seen any hard facts or measurements to know if that is credible.
The outcome is now raw video in two places, USB file, and card file. That's a crazy work flow, and likely best done by equal distribute between both.
But like I said its outside of the box, and perhaps an avenue for higher raw resolution investigation at appropriate time.

Another more generic thought, is that for all ML cameras,  in MF/Manual mode/Manual ISO  a lot less is going on with the processor.
So why not attempt the same, and see if writing to two places can max out the bus, and improve raw video capture!!!  Perhaps FHD on a 550D/600D (we can dream) !!!

Sorry DV I updated my post on the usb 3.0, as it appears it was prior to official release.  However once released it did not materialize.

While I have yet to read a Canon spec sheet that says its usb 2.0, the fact they have not noted it as usb 3.0, or provide clarification that such a compatible device is needed
it is probably usb 2.0.  More than a few folks have noted that actual usb 2.0 reader speeds max at 35 MB/s.

http://www.dslrfilmnoob.com/2014/02/01/usb-3-0-card-reader-speeds-matters/

So it looks like the next point of interest would be to connect to a SSD drive   That should maz. throttle the transfer rate.  Perhaps enough to get past 40 MB/s.
And if so that would work for even 550D and above cameras.

I do know that the 70D inherited the 90 MB/s All-I compression from the 5D MarkIII, so its got to have superior throughput processing somewhere? that can be tapped.

You could use an OTB (USB 3) cable to connect to the camera, and the writer.
The question becomes can ML use this device???  Perhaps a s/w driver is needed. I wonder if there is an Digic/ARM config. to use it.
I like the USB port connection because unlike the HDMI it doesn't blank the LCD screen, so if we can bypass the slow ass internal card writer ...

Just wondering if anyone has tried ML with one the usb to CF or SDHC card writers.
It seems that if you avoid using the internal SD card writer and output to the usb, things might be faster

http://www.walmart.com/ip/All-in-1-USB-3.0-Compact-Flash-Multi-Memory-Card-Reader-CF-Adapter-MicroSD-MS-XD/40995370

Its a bit outside the box, not sure what the internal card writer does vs ML functionality in that department.
If we are lucky perhaps just a driver is needed???

DV at 40 MB/s, expect for 1080p only in crop mode: @ 11fps continuous, and aspect 2.35 @17 fps continuous, and if memory buffer of 70D if its same as 6D, @ 24 fps for 5s.

Like the 700D/6D expect for 720p no crop: @ 24 fps continuous, and at aspect 2.35 @ 30fps continuous.

For 1152x350 no crop aspect 2.35 (stretch mode) @ 60fps continuous. Never tried crop with stretch mode, so perhaps with crop some higher res. @60fps is possible.  Probably avoid raw video @60fps for projects other than QHD.

And that's iff you have cards that actually write 40 MB/s.

Houston, the eagle has landed. The baby is out of the QEMU incubator !!! Look forward to being able to play with your hackware. Great stuff!!!

I thought to bump my own thread... anyone got a Tamron 17-50 2.8 VC they can test on a FF, lets see if it works at any focal lengths?

Another approach is to perhaps write a wrapper that will support ML on DLSR Controller App.
Keep the design simple: Run ML on the camera, and DLSR controller App on the Tablet. The idea is to run the wrapper on the Tablet, so as not to burden the camera processing one bit (except now it handles a few incoming USB commands).
The gain in functionality is: You can focus check on DSLR controller app, set AF points on the touch screen, and record.  The rest is done on ML using its features, and these are sent as part of the picture to DSLR controller app. Not much is lost here.
You effectively gain ML display on a tablet size screen, and not so many features of DSLR controller app, but instead still trigger all your ML features from the camera LCD.
Then the only thing you have to use a wrapper (running on the tablet), is for three things:
1. update the full picture/display (usb RX from ML to DLSR controller),
2. AF point selection on touchscreen (usb TX from DSLR Controller app to ML), and
3. record (usb TX from DSLR controller app to ML).

A procedure:
* I guess download the canon SDK and see what tools you can use to monitor USB input/output *
- step one: map the picture/display output from the usb with Canon running standard.
- step two: load up ML, then repeat the exercise mapping the same output again.
- step three: write a wrapper that converts the canon ML display output to standard canon display output, as DSLR controller should now display the ML display output.
~~ Having run ML with EOS utility I do think ML can do this but I am not sure about its overlays, which would be needed since we are using ML and not DSLR controller for the features (focus peaks etc.)

- step four: map the AF touchscreen and record button output from DSLR controller app usb to a standard canon usb input.
- step five: get from ML its usb interface:  I wonder if this had been disabled through hack???  Hopefully some inside folks know the answer. Anyways need to be able to trigger a ML record, and update AF (this is likely same as standard canon)
- step six: update the wrapper to covert DLSR controller usb outputs, back to ML equivalent commands.  (hopefully some will document/wiki/provide)

- step seven: test and debug. 
I think this is a lot more doable by keeping the design simple.

** THE TWO BIG QUESTIONS HERE ARE
1. CAN ML SEND ITS FULL DISPLAY INCLUDING OVERLAYS TO THE USB ?
2. CAN ML RECEIVE (RX) AF touchpoints and RECORD COMMANDS ON THE USB ? **


FYI Canon SDK's, written in C.
http://www.usa.canon.com/cusa/consumer/standard_display/sdk_homepage#SDKQ1

Ok - here is another kind of hack.  Get your $65 3X 3.2" screen loupe of amazon.  If you own a 650D, 700D, 70D then cut the bottom out.

You can not only focus check, but with the poke access you can use the touch screen and its features while viewing.

Not elegant but for a 70D it may be the only working way to use touch AF focus pull with ML (when it becomes available and its getting closer by the day).

Probably need a tripod or a shoulder harness to stablizile your camera.

I heard a recent interview from one of the Panasonic top Dogs, and he expressed that he thought folk DIY developing firmware was interesting and exciting and viewed it positively, however they could never warranty issues arising from it.
So I suspect Canon feels much the same way, without ever officially admitting, they value the ML effort, but cant be seen to warranty one iota of it. Let's put it this way, canon loves to brag about how many motion pictures
a canon DSLR has been used.  And when you read the interviews you start to realize that ML is one of the key reasons.  So ML is actually adding prestige, respect, and notoriety to Canon DSLRs, which is way more than
their sensor development team has been earning.  So the extra publicity also adds loyalists who like FLYs on a flypaper, once they have sunk a few grand in glass become stuck.   JMHO.

It feels like Stripes, where we have to complete basic training ourselves.  That's a joke.
So without any offense to A1EX or G, who have done great work and spent long hours on the common code base which we presently enjoy,
lets enlist a guide on the .fir build process.   I think most want a ML drop under the xmas tree to play with over the holidays ... and things only get busier as the fat man's date night approaches, so lets organize the troups.

Inspiration here's two 700D raw videos, which if shot on the 70D, we hope could have been even better (not that he didn't do a great job).
http://vimeo.com/111512507
and
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=clcVjGrqBr4

In the Northrup video there is a bit of 5D2 vs 70D low light comparison.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NjR2OztuXtA
The 70D goes to ISO 3200, and the 5D2 goes one step higher 6400 (as I recall).  The 70D is close for an aps-c and beats all the rebels.

They are cameras of different eras and sensor design.
5D2 pros: RAW at high res near 1080p and 2K, low light one step in ISO, less noise in same low light.
5D2 cons: fastest 30fps in 1080p so no 60fps, AF is too slow for video so no parfocal zoom, try AF with Magic Lantern step focus and 2 point rack focus, slow pps, no clean HDMI outs, changing parameters more clumsy.

I dont think its really good to compare it to a 70D, as the 70D fast continuous smooth AF via touchscreen just means it gets actions shots you cant on a 5D2, so its a different tool.
70D pros: 720p 60fps, eventually 720p RAW, ISO 3200, aps-c is classic 35mm film look, AF as mentioned, parfocal zoom, 7pps for stills, WIFI for stills, flexi-LCD is sharp versatile.
70D cons: 720p raw does not get you close to 2K.  no clean HDMI outs.  No 120fps or 1080p 60fps.

If your going to shoot in H264 then the 70D is just a better video HDSLR.  But the 5D2 is the best value in FF RAW, for the projects which need raw, lowest light, and richer bokeh.
I think with proper lighting kit, the 70D is more versatile. 

Was just checking up on bitbucket to see if G, has been able to get started.
https://bitbucket.org/hudson/magic-lantern/commits/branch/70d-support

Nikfrik,
Went looking for your QEMU drop, but pastebin reports its been removed?
Is there another link.  Cheers & great work.

DigitalVeil

A larger touchscreen just means more fidelity in AF set and checking.  Do want to keep plugging in a monitor just to focus check your last shot? Plug-in then take it out to shoot your next raw clip.   A 3" LCD is fine for run & gun, but even then Ive seen some 7" tablets in the hotshoe which are even better for run & gun. 
     

A main advantage of the 70D is the touchscreen AF, with smooth continuous focus.  Yet for ML RAW shooting that's a problem, how do you set/check focus?
Using a HDMI out screen, means blanked LCD, and loss of touchscreen.
Using USB apps (laptop or Tablet/android), yes touchscreen AF is kept but the problem presently is no software supports MLV RAW.
You are left with shooting MLV raw off a 3" LCD, which means ML 5X-10X zoom is all you have.
The only solution I come back to get a bigger than 3" screen for focus set/check, is a hacked loupe, 3X magnification with cut out bottom so you can poke around with your finger.
The other MLV RAW limit on a 70D is the 720P res imposed by the SD controller speed.  For those who crave higher res RAW with great IQ, look to a camera with a fast CF controller (5D2 or 5D3 cinematic giants).

70D has great IQ, excellent quality for say indie film. I never bought this camera thinking ML support as the make or brake for it. 
Using EOS remote or DSLR controller app on a 7"+ touchscreen, Marvel pic styles, and decent grading it can produce great  footage right now, that's why to buy this camera. 
The 70D could be a RAW fast smooth continuous AF champ, that's were this tool wins big over the rest.

" I also have the ML settings for LV DIGIC peaking - slightly sharper, Focus Peak - strong edges, high-res, 0.5%, red and Magic Zoom - FocusR+HalfS, medium, top-left, 2.1, green bars.
... 7-8" screen is sufficient, a good one if you can afford it... just go for one that has IPS and at least true native 720p resolution, ... loupe to the screen of the camera is the same result for less money."
~ The DLSR controller app has focus peaking (and other options check video), and the nexus 7 is a 7" true 1080p, so its better than what canon DSLRs output.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xNfeIcSsBWc


"AF has never really worked in video, it has been a consumer feature, pros don't crave for it, why - we can't trust it, it is nice to have a push-auto (af-on) button, but when filming - mostly manual. here is an article worth reading on the topic of AF - http://philipbloom.net/2014/03/28/c100autofocus/"
~ P. Bloom actaully using an upgrade to the C100 became a convert of sorts.  He valued it for fast moving subjects, as desirable.  His major criticism went like you can't smoothly continuous focus change, with AF between subjects as they move, and he wanted a focus lock button to let him control this.  The 70D which he did not get a chance to test, with the touchscreen focus does all of what he was complaining about reasonably well, and for fast moving exceptionally well.  What it does not do well is focus in low light/contrast.  I liked your idea of using a more contrasty pic style for focus setting, pic style does influence detail captured.  Yes MF skill has to be developed, focus peaks at true 1080p with lets say a 5X zoom certainly are all useful in that.
Second thought - focus in low contrast / fog, its hard to do in MF even with contrasty pic style, but its not useful for action anyways as light/contrast is needed else your eye wont be able to follow.  Same thought for action in low light.
http://www.canonwatch.com/philip-bloom-talks-canons-dual-pixel-af-eos-c100/

"Adjusting exposure settings to make AF work is wrong, and wrong by so many levels. picture is what matters,
Tough I would not film a foggy day in a flat profile - that's pointless.
I've tried all kinds of auto modes for video on DSLR, and they all suck. first of all - they jump the corrections thus making the footage unusable,"
~ Well wether you use MF, Manual or some auto style, the issue of shooting on a street where the clouds & sun change lighting is a challenge. 
1. Manual(24 fps) + ISO auto (max to 800 in menu) + AF (touchscreen as in 70D) ~ This uses ISO to let the most light in, and permits fast/smooth continuous focus change, good during the day.  Yes one needs ND for bokeh in bright light.
a great discussion on this approach:   http://www.dpreview.com/articles/0206161199/an-in-depth-discussion-of-m-auto-iso-for-canon-slrs
2. Tv Priority (say 24fps) + ISO auto (max to 800/1600 in menu) +AF (touchscreen as in 70D)~ This uses ISO and aperture to balance exposure. Not a good choice during the day, but nightime shot of someone walking down the street and you need EV=0 on their face, then changing aperture is your best bet as ISO likely to be at max. anyways.
Using less auto limits the amount of jumping about, which is needed to handle scenes with change of lighting.  ND filters I use when I have no choice (bokeh in bright light, contrast in snow), but fill light is often needed with them.
3. The other killer thing about a decent AF, is when you want to zoom parfocal.  A decent AF facial recog lock permits parfocal zoom, hence your budget non parfocal / IS lens becomes parfocal.

Final thoughts on MF, in general when its needed, a FF is a better tool.  It has less noise and handles low light better.  I find some have started to shoot in such darkness today, mostly because they can or want to show off their low light prowess. 
HBO series the Knick, I keep seeing shots with great sets, shot in utter darkness, where I am angry that they are burying detail in shadow, its abuse does not improve story. 
But us humble aps-c users we still need our lights, which if used creatively can still accommodate shadow and AF.   

Ansius

So what's your recommended MF approach on a DSLR???

Mine:
- Absolutely when AF hunts, typically in low (or even very bright) light you go MF.  However I find quite often that when it hunts, there is serious noise in the shadow, such that even though I can MF using zoomX5-10, I generally drop my exposure settings to blacken out the banding in shadow.  I hate having to fix banding in post, its crap footage and a pain, I generally just drop exposure anyways.
- I am looking at using a Nexus 7 in the hotshoe, with DSLR controller app via usb, to get touchscreen focus, and a 7" screen for MF check.
- Where I find MF most useful is when you want to focus on things that have lower light/contrast and also very big sections that have no detail. 
- The Canon EOS utility via usb is useful, but requires a laptop, which requires a Tripad or some other big stand.  What's your screen/stand of choice?

Question
- Have you tried filming in Shutter Priority mode Tv, with Ev=0.  I find it very useful instead of Manual for outdoors when the sunlight keeps changing by the minute (and when youre not chasing the bokeh either).

Cheers.