Messages

I suggest trying to make an HDR photo first then, so you can see what is going on.

Had a quick look at kgv5's video, and it gives really good examples.
So check out it. And also check out http://www.magiclantern.fm/hdrvideos

On the note of twixtor. It is a propriety plugin for proprietary software on a propriety operating system.

Here is an alternative http://slowmovideo.granjow.net/

You're wrong

It's coming to 6D when 6D users become less ignorant

HDR video is used at 50fps/60fps, so one ends up with a dark frame followed by a light frame, which one can then blend together into a 25fps/30fps HDR video.
h.264 is only 8bit, so no you can't fake HDR it. Particularly works well when shot in dark indoors while one still wants to capture the bright outdoors through the window.
If you have a look at some of the HDR videos in the ML Cinema you will see just how cromulent the effect can be.
One sets the exposure correctly to catch the bright areas, then adjusts the exposure using the iso only for the dark areas to get two perfectly exposed areas which can be then mashed together.

The added features are there to embiggen ML. Find what works best for you... but i guarantee your bizarre technique won't churn as good as results as 'legitimate' HDR.

And I'm unsure as to why you question is posed in such an attack when it's something that doesn't have to be used if you don't want to.

I originally contacted canon before fps override was in ML asking for 24fps, because PAL contained 24*0.999 (or 24/1.001, which it's the first for canon cameras, probably as it results in only 3 decimal places), which isn't a PAL format, it's NTSC.
Cinema is 24fps... for playing back.
When movies are converted to PAL for dvd release they actually speed up the video, and audio, resulting in a semitone or two change in audio. Plus a film that originally ran for an hour 5 minutes would run for only an hour on PAL vhs or dvd. Which I'd been saying for years "It seemed like it went for longer at the cinema."
Same with American television shows, they shoot them at 23.976 for the cinematic feel, as a result when played on Australian tv they sound like chipmunks, which actually make the shows slightly funnier than they are, which most of them arn't.
24*0.999 exists because of inverse telecine conversion. Because NTSC is 30*0.999 (or 30/1.001) and when converted backwards it equals 24*0.999. Which actually means a movie on NTSC dvd will go for longer, as they slow it down from 24 to 24*0.999 to then convert to 30*0.999 (although bluray now contains 23.976p). Although the difference of converting a film to NTSC is marginal compared to converting to PAL, so the difference can't be noticed.

I realise canon already has it's own (limited) speed control).
However I was thinking if one records in 24FPS, and records audio on a separate device.
When playing back the two together to see a take they will be slightly out, as 24 plays back slightly faster at 25fps.
So if there was some way to specifically override the playback fps.

Bit odd posting this in the general development discussions of Magic Lantern....

Thanks nanomad. I find it odd how it steps 100K for some values but then 500K for higher ones.

I've just noticed they are 100K steps until I get to 7000K, then it jumps by 500K steps. Yet the automatic WB can set values between.

other effects are basically changing white balance
or you could upload some picture styles, canon has some on their site for download

I found that if you get cheezels all over your fingers, and then violently rub the cameras sensor, it creates a fantastic vintage look.

Unless I'm missing something it jumps: 9000, 9500, 10000.
So in groups of 500, however when I white balance with a card I get values like 9700.
I'd like to be able to enter in 9700 for when I have to match a scene.
I'm not sure how this can be done to avoid always having to scroll through values by 100s.
Thanks.

I know what you mean about the lock getting bumped, I used to experience that myself.
However, the card is unlocked. And also, I write to the card and then next second while it's still in it becomes unwritable.

This bizarre thing has started happening with the write-ability of my SD cards with the new magic lanterns, although I'm unsure as to how this works.

What I do is format a card using my camera, then I put my card into my computer using a usb card reader, and I make the card bootable.
Then I copy magic lantern onto it, the folder and the .bin, and at that moment the card becomes read only in the computer.
Then to be able to put stuff onto the card I have to reformat it in my camera, or reformat it in general, then I do the whole process again.

What this means is I can't delete photos when the card is in my computer, and I can't add new overlays or scripts, or easily update ML as I have to keep starting the process over.

This wasn't always the problem, but it seemed to change with ML as I haven't changed my computer at all.
I've tried accessing the card as root and all other root kind of things, still says not writeable.
Note that I write to the card 2 seconds before this happens.
Running Gnu/Linux Ubuntu 12.04.

Any help is greatly appreciated.

Here's how it should look like:


And here's a sign that you should recalibrate (different WB, the peaks are no longer aligned):

Is this right? As raw the colours wouldn't change depending on white balance.
It would depend on scene. However, due to the bayer sensor pattern, the green would always be higher than the blue and red no? (Unless there is no green in the scene).

Hey Alex can you hurry up and implement this. 

I took some photos with RAW+JPEG to get a comparison of the Raw and what it looks like processed in "Darktable".
Darktable can't take canon picture styles (ofc) so I've just gone with neutral ps when shooting.
Darktable doesn't have the curve that canon uses either, but it has an estimated preset which is "canon like" which I've included to show the difference.

This is the original JPEG canon neutral.	This is the original JPEG canon neutral -4 contrast.
This is the canon like curve from darktable.	This is the no curve on the RAW from darktable.

I think it's been discussed before, but bypassing just picture styles, to get this no curve look.
I mentioned ML iso in the title because when this is used on different pictures styles it changes how much it can be used.
For example between "cinestyle" and "flaat", you can ramp it up higher in cinestyle because they are clipping the highlights more in the first place.
So ML iso is basically in camera picture style curve editing.

Neutral picture style, is neutral with a curve. If the curve can be bypassed, plus on top of that the contrast dropped to fit more dynamic range in, of course this doesn't want to be done too extreme. The guy flaat has flaat_10, flaat_11, flaat_12 and as soon as you hit 12, even 11, it gets a bit useless, http://similaar.com/foto/flaat-picture-styles/index.html


EDIT: as the photos I had on here were removed off the original site, I've now inserted replacements. Hence the update.

I did suggest this a week before this post.
http://www.magiclantern.fm/forum/index.php?topic=2577.msg10441#msg10441
With references to CHDK and SDM
http://stereo.jpn.org/eng/sdm/index.htm

Careful - I fried my first dslr (400D / Rebel XTi) by using an old flash with it. Research before putting it on the camera

I'd be interested in knowing what flash you used.

Ah. I had seen that site as well. Thanks for the help. I will get my friend to voltmeter test it just to be safe as well.
If anybody else has anything to add, be much appreciated as well.

I have a 550D, and I have recently picked up a Canon speedlite 299T. It's an old flash from an automatic SLR.
What are the rules for using flashes on DSLR's. The sync voltage problems and what not.
This has 3 pins on it, I've seen things about taping 2 of the pins.
How does one test (or reliably find) the sync voltage of a flash and the sync voltage of the camera?
Do I need to build kind of a surge protector to go in between the flash and the camera?

Isn't the frame rate of the live view whatever it is the frame rate is set to. Or does live view have it's own screen hz frame rate.

550D. I may buy a 650D but probably not, one canon camera is enough for me, I hate the brand with a fury of 1000 men.

Has anybody every DIY'd underwater housing?

Well I stand corrected.