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Hi there,

I want to mess around with ML and the 1000d.

I don't no much(or anything at all) about compiling magic lantern and the c language.

Long ago some work has been done by Coutts
http://bitbucket.org/coutts/1000d_dev/src

I used the instructions in this post to be able to compile
http://www.magiclantern.fm/forum/index.php?topic=16012.0

I'm now able to compile the standard platforms, like for example the newest 6d build. I get the fir, autoexec.bin and the zipfile.
But I can't get it to work with the stuff Coutts has made.

I get this error message in terminal:

rm *.o; rm AUTOEXEC.arm.elf
rm: *.o: No such file or directory
rm: AUTOEXEC.arm.elf: No such file or directory
make: *** [clean] Error 1

So there are some linking problems, but I don't know where to link to these files, I know they are available in the 'gcc-arm-none-eabi-4_8-2013q4' folder on my home directory

Anyone here willing to help/ suggest ideas

How the image on the back of your camera screen looks, also depends on the picture style you choose.
If you're using cinestyle or something like that, the image probably looks brighter then you would expect.

Best way to judge exposure is to enable the raw histogram, like the rest says.

I can live with that 
My interest is in the full res silent picture function of ML in combination with the timer options 

1000d works too now!

https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/0B1BxGc3dfMDaYjV5eTlyNWdjcVU?usp=sharing

I've found coutts' 1000d_dev repostitory

Did run the 1000d.FIR that comes with it, and now I have a 1000d with blinking blue led.

'(I'm placing the image buffer at 0x4000000 = 64MB, so this may explain the issue)'
Does this mean you updated the FIR file and can I give a new try ?

I'm interested in a 1000d Port.
Full-res silent pictures would make it a great time-lapse camera 

I've got time, so if I can be guided trough the so called easy part  I can give it a try.

Yeah, LIVEVIEW can give the good ML features 

Downloaded the updated FIR file for 1000d, still got the flickering display.
Only this time the colors are different, and the text below disappears (in the other FIR file, the text was visible during flickering)
----------------------------------
Firmware update program

          Loading...

----------------------------------

I can't update the firmware with the FIR on the 1000d with current firmware version 1.0.7.

I put the FIR file on a SD card.
Run firmware update from Canon menu.
It asks me if I want to update, I press OK.
After that A screen appears,
----------------------------------
Firmware update program

          Loading...

----------------------------------
After a second or so, the color of the letters and the background color changes.
After another second, the background starts flickering/flashing and this goes on forever...waited for more then 5 minutes...
The camera doesn't react to the on/off switch.
So I pulled the battery out and restart the cam, still works like before 

Is there something wrong with the FIR file ?

Hi Alex, I'm interested in the 1000d file, but the links to the fir files seems dead ?

Are these FIR files to be used to enable the bootflag on these camera models ? Seems like a yes

By the way, Interesting stuff, that extra stop in the highlights 
According to that ND patent, it's a ND filter in the microlens which can be switched on and off...so it's not done on CMOS level, like dual iso.
I guess this means it's fixed at only one stop of difference, between the two images.

I downloaded some canon 5d4 raw files from that swedish site, curious about how much focus shift can be done.
Downloaded the newest Digital Photo Professional 4 (version 4.4.30.2) from the canon website.
But it can't open/recognize the 5d4 files...

Does anybody know where can I download the actual DPP4 version which can open the CR2's from the 5d4 ?

r3d format is probably patented or something like that, because it's also a compressed raw format.
So copying it, would be some sort of illegal I guess

My guess is that the MLV files straight out of camera don't contain a jpg preview inside.
The MLV contains the pure raw data plus some exif info.
The jpeg preview is probably made in the conversion step to DNG on your computer.

"I really want that cinematic look especially in dark

Do you mean scenes at night time, do what most of them do, shoot in daylight and bring down exposure and turn white balance to blue

Or crush the hell out of the shadows in post process.
Take the lower left of the luma curve and move it to the right...maybe lift a bit to get clean gray shadows.

Has been discussed before, to buy cameras or pay money to the devs.
But the main problem is time.
The devs are limited in time, they also have lives

Maybe you should try some forums where people are with programming skills and put a bounty on unlocking the 5dIV

Look Canon, here is the source code http://bitbucket.org/hudson/magic-lantern/overview
Please tweak it a little so it works on your nice newly 5d4 

 

Time to start a business in refurbished canon DSLR's 

2^24... ofcourse, I should have known better

I hope you have altered the screenshots, otherwise some people can turn back the shutter time counter...
And then we get a shitload of used canon gear with only few miles..., I mean shutter actuations on the counter

Does somebody already know what the purpose is of the raw files with full data of DPAF ?
Is it to extract some more detail out ?
30 megapixel sensor, but 60 megapixel with DPAF, but with pairs of pixels under the same RGB color, so I'm curious how much extra detail there is in real life...

More than 16 million !!!! 
And here am I, using full res silent pictures for timelapses, afraid of wearing out my gear 

you could test it in photo mode with current builds, that way you could test if there is some gain in picture quality.

Camera on a tripod
Enable dual iso
now take two pictures with different iso's (sort of faking HDR mode)
Postproces the 2 pictures and merge/blend them together.

Now for reference compare this picture, with two pictures with different iso's and merged blended together.
And one picture with dual iso.

Please post the pictures, because I'm actually curious now how much different it will look 

Dual iso and HDR make both use of the same trick, recording with 2 iso settings.
Dual iso uses 2 iso settings in 1 frame and dual iso HDR switches iso settings between frames.
Since both use the trick of combining 2 iso settings, they don't add up if you combine them, result by using both will be about the same as using one of the two.

Think about it. For both you have to set 2 iso settings.
Let's say you choose iso 100-6400 for dual iso.
And for HDR iso 100 + 6ev(so resulting in iso 6400).
Enabling both will give you recordings in iso 100 and iso 6400.
Just as enabling one of the two will give you.

I think you forget to prepare the SD card.
The SD card has to be made bootable for your DSLR.
This only have to be done once, after that the card stays bootable, even after formatting in camera.
Try searching on the forum, there are multiple programs written to do this.
I used macboot make the SD bootable

Turn off long exposure noise reduction in Canon menu.
It's enabled by default, my guess is that this is causing the gaps.

Long exposure noise reduction takes another photo (without opening the shutter) with same exposure settings and uses it as a black frame to substract from the actual photo to remove noise.