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I've been using ML since I acquired my T5i and I haven't had any hassles at all. Used daily on various projects.

Full-resolution silent pictures
http://www.magiclantern.fm/forum/index.php?topic=12523

Has anyone compiled this for the 700D/T5i? It looks pretty awesome.

Auto ISO is often a cause of this kind of problem so make sure you set it manually, especially if you are moving around a lot. Also, if you were shooting under fluorescent lights this to can be a pain and introduce all kinds of issues. Use manual setting wherever possible.

Hey Guys,
Going through some of the footage I shot I noticed some flickering issue with the footage where the exposure flickers high and low on some parts of the footage.. anyone else is having the same ordeal? any workaround?

Thanks

Unless you can locate an older build upgrade to ver 1.1.3

Move the position of the Magic Zoom Box to the "bottom-right", that should fix it.

Canon T5i (700D) and Atomos Ninja.

Is anyone working on, or found, a solution for the black frame around the Atomos Ninja's image. Up until this day all Canon DSLR cameras have overlays within the HDMI signal that cannot be removed making the external recording un-useable. Can this be remedied with Magic Lantern or is it a canon Firmware issue?

Today I upgraded my firmware to ver 1.1.3 and everything is running perfectly with the latest nightly build.  I look forward to seeing the audio meters in future builds. Well done to all those concerned for the great work.

Most tripods designed for photographers are not able to resist torque and that's why most video tripod legs have two (or more) parallel tubes. And yes, it means it will be not that cheap as a tripod with a simpler design. But a cheap tripod not doing the job is not exactly the best way to spend your money, even with my 2 cents counting in.

Ciao
Walter

Agreed with you, 100%

As far as I know all Canon HDSLR cameras had overlays within the HDMI signal that could not be removed making an external recording impossible.
In practise having a clean signal means that you can record the video feed to an external device like the Atomos Ninja ( http://www.atomos.com/ ) and get a ready to edit, quality encoded Apple ProRes 4:2:2 file. Does anyone know if there is a fix out there, as I believe Canon had a beta solution for the T4i / 650D.

A T5i/700D, Magic Lantern, clean HDMI and an Atomos Ninja, would be a great combination with fantastic end results.

Thank you very much for these complete answers, I really appreciate, it's gonna help me a lot !

I didn't think about any external gear but the ND filter seems to be the easiest way of doing it ! Also, thank you for your e-mail ;-)

I should also invest in a good tripod, mine is a little weak now, I bought it for a bridge a few years ago, now it has to deal with a 700D with the Sigma mounted on

Have a look at this tripod combo. I use one everyday and it hasn't let me down. It's lightweight and easy to carry around, not like some of the other heavyweights I have to contend with from time to time. It maybe a bit expensive but it's worth every cent.
http://www.amazon.com/Manfrotto-MVK502AM-Video-Telescoping-Carry/dp/B006LWHLSA/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1394013670&sr=8-5&keywords=MVH502A
And if you work a lot indoors pick up a set of Wheely Bars, they will save you lots of time when re-arranging scenes. They can also be used for short dolly shots. Great fun. http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=a9_sc_1?rh=i%3Aaps%2Ck%3Aravelli+wheels+bar&keywords=ravelli+wheels+bar&ie=UTF8&qid=1394014413

1) As we can't record a RAW video @ 1080p on the 700D, will I get the best picture quality by recording in Canon's MOV if I want my final project to be exported at 1080p ? Or should I stick to RAW even at a lower resolution and with all the heavy post-processing workflow (Pink Dots Removal, image correction on Camera RAW, creation of the video on VirtualDub @ 24fps) ?

ANS: On my T5i (700D) I raw works perfectly at 1280x720. However, as you correctly state the workflow can be quite time consuming especially if you have time restraints for your projects. Personally, I seldom shoot raw because of time restraints. That being said I get great results from the standard codec shooting with bit-rates between x1.4 - 1.6.

2) If I stick to Canon's MOV, does the x3.0 bit-rate really help or is it just placebo ?

ANS: Using a higher bit-rate will give you a slight improvement in dynamic range which will help in post, I you have poorly lit footage to work with. You won't have the headroom you get with RAW but every bit helps when grading / correcting. You can experiment with a bit-rate of x3.0 but you could pick up problems with sound. As I mentioned previously x1.4 - 1.6 is a good starting point. Remember, if you light your scene properly you can get results comparable to RAW, so take time with your lighting.

3) I would like to use the 180° shutter rule but the only solution I found was to set the camera on Manual mode, set the shutter to 1/50 and set aperture and ISOs consequently, the problem is that I want to record with an exposure conpensation of -2/3 IL, 'cause I found the image too bright with no exposure compensation. Why isn't the TV mode enabled ? I could set the shutter @ 1/50, the exposure compensation @ -2/3 and let the camera set both aperture and ISOs...

ANS: Outdoors I shoot predominantly with these settings:-  ISO 100, Shutter 1/50 (180 deg) and an f/stop that looks good, usually between f/4-f/8. If your images are over exposed, fit an ND filter. You can pick them up cheaply on eBay. Variable ND filters are by far the easiest and quickest to use. Also, I like to reduce my ZEBRA warning to 95% so as to ensure I don't accidentally over expose. Use your HISTOGRAM all the time when setting up your exposure for a shot.

4) Specifically for Macro recording, what aperture would you use ? My macro lens is a Sigma 150mm f2.8...
ANS: Depends on the effect you are trying to achieve. At 150mm f/2.8 you'll get great depth of field. Experiment with different f/stops until you achieve the desired effect.

5) What are the best settings to use in the Picture Styles ? Now i use a custom profile set at a Neutral base, Sharpness @ 3, Contrast and Saturation @ -2 and as I said, an exposure compensation set @ -2/3... Are these settings all right to you ?
ANS: Picture Styles present an open ended discussion, but for video here's where I recommend you start.

        1. ProLost Picture Style.
        ▪   Set Sharpness to zero—all the way to the left
   ▪   Set Contrast all the way to the left
   ▪   Set Saturation two notches to the left
You can get a full explanation of this Picture Style here: http://prolost.com/flat

        2. Tecnicolor Cinestyle
Download here: http://www.technicolor.com/en/solutions-services/cinestyle
This picture style has a good DR range but you have to grade the S-Curve of the image. You can get great results with this style if you spend a bit of time in post. Color Grading Central have a great S-Curve LUT (Look Up Table/Utility for Final Cut X) whicjh I use often when using the Technicolor picture style. You can can get more information on this LUT here... http://www.colorgradingcentral.com/lututility

        3. Flaat10
Download here: http://similaar.com/foto/flaat-picture-styles/index.html
Always a popular picture style and easy to work with.

Keep your sharpness level down as it helps to reduce ALIASING / MOIRE.

Hope this helps, and good luck.

If you would like an up to date build with audio meters I updated my version so it is up to date as of today Feb 26 2014. Also includes the fps/shutter value fix.
https://bitbucket.org/mk11174/t5i/downloads

Brilliant work. Running perfectly on my T5i.

[25fps]

Help me please ! Is this a 700D ML bug or am i just too dumb to understand it ?
I got 25fps pal video mode. Then i go to Magic lantern Menu. I adjust the shutter to 1/50 and get 162 degree shutter.

-> I adjust the shutter to 1/45 and get 179 degree shutter.

How is this possible ? i thought 2 * fps is the 180 degree shutter.

Pictures :



I just dont know what to choose now. 1/50 because people say this should be the 180 degree shuter, or 1/45 because ML tells me its 180 degree.

thanks in advance and best wishes,
thankmelater

Honestly it is working great for me so, I don't see any problem getting it, It just can't control audio right now, but you already have that in Canon menu now, so you really don't need the control in ML. I use MLV_REC over Raw_Rec and it works great and with sound, Raw_Rec works fine, but I go with MLV.

Works for me, and I love it.

Yes

I loaded Magic Lantern on my T5i from the first day it arrived. Worked like a dream from the word go. Just follow the installation instructions to the letter and you'll be A ok! I check the regular updates, read all the changes, bugs etc., both Nightly and Alpha builds, and you'll soon find out what's good and bad.

There are a great bunch of guys working on this project, and personally I am extremely happy with the results they have and are producing. Being able to reduce ISOs to 70, 80 and 160 is simply marvellous. Not to mention Cropmarks, Focus Peaking (fantastic for manual lenses) plus a million other features and enhancements. You'll love ML, I do.  I repeat, follow the instructions and you won't have a problem, period.

If you want cutting edge progess on ML check out the posts from mk11174, he's working hard on getting  AUDIO meters to work. I'm running his alpha build and love it.

Here are a few steps to help you along the way.

Firstly make sure you have the correct firmware on your T5i/700D. Check out this site you'll find a link somewhere.
Secondly, download the MacBoot utility from internet, then;

1. Disk Utility: Erase everything on SD card.
2. MacBoot - Use third option - "DSLR Bootable"
3. Download ML from this site...the Nightly builds or the stable version (or if you're like me the Alpha builds)
3. Unpack ML to sub-directory...let's call it ML, (anywhere you like...mine's on my desktop.)
3. Copy ML from directory  'Magic Lantern" - 700D.xxx.xxx (or whatever version) - ML to root of SD Card. Make sure auto.exe file is in the root else won't boot.
4. Make sure MacBoot remains open when copying files.
5. Bang the card back into your T5i and you should be good to go.

The ROOT of your SD card should look something like mine which looks like this: (Check out the wonderful crop-marks from some of fantastic work from the brilliant guys using ML in the "Cropmarks" directory)
https://www.dropbox.com/sh/7bcnhzwhxhlvg2y/WylQyLzxCU

Then when ML is running like you want it too, you'll want to start playing with all the picture styles you can find, which in the long run will drive you crazy. Her's a small package of picture styles to get you started.
https://www.dropbox.com/s/lqxpyro0jfjvoig/158%20VW%20Collection%20CPS.zip (I'm sure there are enough to make you tear your hair out...Stick with Cinestyle, Prolost, VisionColor or VisionTech and CineLook and you'll be fine.

Then you will ask, what's next? It has to be RAW. A lot of work has gone into ML RAW but the workflow, for me, is far too tedious and time consuming. For short projects RAW is great but for day to day work, a fast turnaround is a prerequisite, so  ML basic does the job perfectly for me.

What am I waiting for? The new H265 codec, which should give results as good as RAW, is just around the corner, so I'm hanging in there!

Enjoy.

Use the app Pink Dot Remover.

mk11174 posted this build https://bitbucket.org/mk11174/t5i/downloads/ML_700D_Meters_Jan_30_2014.zip Works for me.

sorry http://www.mediafire.com/view/aj0qri5x56t3jt3/raw.JPG

Use the app Pink Dot Remover.

Ok, after trial and error debugging with Glassescreditsroll, I came up with a good temp solution for fulltime meters that works exactly the same on the 650d and 700d https://bitbucket.org/mk11174/t5i/downloads/ML_700D_Meters_Jan_30_2014.zip

It enables Photomode remote shoot without going into Audio Menu and meters work fulltime in Movie Mode.

If you notice the meters are not the same levels when you first start cam compared to how they are when you record a movie, don't worry, it means you are using Manual Gain Control in Canon Audio Menu. This temp solution just gets meters going and it does it in Auto Gain Control mode, so this is why your levels will look differ at first, but good news is, you can either set Canon Gain control to Auto and levels will be same no matter what, whether you record or don't record, or restart cam.

Or if you are one to use Manual Control of Canon Gain, than just simply record a 1 second clip and when you stop that recording, that will kick the levels into Manual mode to match Canons setting, or simply just goto the Canon levels menu 1 time and that will also do it.

But once you restart camera, you will have to go back to Canons Audio menu or just record a 1sec clip again.

But if you Have Canon Gain Control set to Auto, then you wont have to do any steps at all, they will just work fine.

So nothing is wrong with the levels if they are differ at first start compared to when you record, it is just ML does not know how to control the gain yet, so I have it simply turn meters on in Auto Gain mode. I can set it to Manual, but it would be useless, since the Audio Chip is not programmed yet, so the changes you make in Canon Menu wont reflect the ML levels, I can only hardcode a value in ML code and it will not be same as Canon level, so it is just pointless till the Audio chip is fully coded and configured to work with ML.

For now, I just basically turned the meters on and they reset when they need to so they will work correctly.

This new way does not mess with wind filter so there wont be any issues with the filters being buggy.

This is great. I have tried it out and it works for me. I'm so happy to be able to see audio metres whilst I'm recording. I don't have to worry if my mic is switched on. Well done, and thank you for your hard work, it's definitely made my day!

Have used this release every day for past 5 days without a hitch. Great job, love it!

Some picture styles are not using the full 0-255 range, so you need to change the thresholds for zebras.

Thanks Alex, problem solved.

Did small tweak to ALO code, thanks to Alex. Just in case it don't get into nightly anytime soon, best to have this version.
https://bitbucket.org/mk11174/t5i/downloads/700D_ML_Audio_cfn_Fix2_Jan_15_2014.zip

Working fine on my T5i. Thanks for this. The audio metres are just what we need. At least they remind me when I have forgotten to switch-on the Rhode video microphone.

I use Lightform C and Lightform N picture styles for most of my projects and strangely the ZEBRA stripes don't work with these two styles. If I switch to Visiontech picture style or one of the camera's on-board styles (Neutral or Faithful) the ZEBRAS work fine. Fortunately I can use the HISTOGRAM when the ZEBRAS aren't visible. Totally weird or am I missing something?

The modules menu appears to have disappeared.

Oops, the Nightly Build is broken?

I started testing raw video with my T5i but am getting noise banding no matter what settings I try. I'm not getting any frame dropouts or stoppages whilst recording so I think the settings are ok.The video below was shot with the following settings:

Raw Video:
* Resolution 1280x536
*Aspect Ratio 2.39:1

Any help would be appreciated.

https://vimeo.com/82719567

Ok, found it here;
http://www.magiclantern.fm/forum/index.php?topic=6658.0

How to Setup Card for Magic Lantern using iMac:

First download the MacBoot utility from internet, then;

1. Disk Utility: Erase everything on SD card.
2. MacBoot - Use third option - "DSLR Bootable"
3. Copy from directory  'Magic Lantern" - 700D.111.16082013 (or whatever version) - ML to root of SD Card. Make sure auto exe file is in the root else won't boot.
4. Make sure MacBoot remains open when copying files.


Done