Messages

No problem.

No. Just get rid of the ML folder and autoexec.bin and copy the ones from the nightlies.

The modules are already included. You just have to load them.

Yes ,.. stupid me! I also need to turn off auto turn off!..


Next to that! I have read the whole forum but can't find a good straight forward workflow for raw. (for me as a sony vegas user! )

What i do is:

5D RAW to RAW2DNG.exe

DNG files in photoshop raw and save all files to .TIF

Then open in quicktime and save them to a movie in H.264.... (can't find any other good codec in the list!)

then in sony vegas

Also don't know good rendering settings in sony vegas!

Can someone give me some good advice on this?

Why don't you just use RAWanizer? http://www.magiclantern.fm/forum/index.php?topic=5557.0

It automatically converts the DNGs into Tiffs.

Ok, so about the new raw capabilities, does anyone know a good thread for all the compiled (OSX) versions of the
- MLRawViewer
- raw2dng
- mlv_dump
- cr2hdr (or is this automagically supported in the raw2dng now?)

Anyway, if there are no compiled binaries for the above - where do I get the latest source of these things? I can't seem to find it on the bitbucket page?
So, can anyone point me in the right direction?

There is no one page that has all that... So I'll just add it to the first post. (Also you missed one: mlv2dng... currently my favorite.)

EDIT: Annnnnnnnd done! I left out some of the more redundant programs (though I may add Rawanizer.)

A complete list can be found here: http://www.magiclantern.fm/forum/index.php?board=54.0

The rest? Probably google.

1st Post updated as promised.

I recorded in RAW, MLV, and H264 today using the latest build (March 26 2014.) I'll take a look at it and report back later.

4. You can focus by hitting the zoom button twice, the first time it will go into a b/w crop mode, but the second time should go to a 10X full color magnification.

Wow! That's good to know! I'm probably going to do some shooting later today. That must've been the "Nintendo" thing I kept seeing then... the b/w crop mode (what's the purpose of that exactly?)

I'll add your tips to the first post after my shoot today.

As for the state of the forum... yeaaah.  One of the problems is that even the stickies will lead you to outdated information (such as the one about RAW, also from 2013, that (for the 600D at least) lead to a tragic lantern post that hadn't been updated since mid 2013 itself.

I even tried going through and page on every thread... but almost all of them lead to dead ends in the fall or summer or 2013.  Very... very frustrating. So now I'm going through the process of unlearning all the outdated information I learned.

[Bootflag can now be disabled on the 5D MKIII!]

It seems like the newest threads about RAW video are all from 2013. (Particularly the thread that lead to me getting into RAW on my 600D) How about a simple list of the CURRENT current state of RAW video for people that just got here?

Here's my understanding (and you can correct me if I'm wrong on any of these...)

1. raw_rec has actually fallen out of favor and more people now use mlv_rec (also known as RAW 2.0)
2. mlv files can be converted to DNGs with mlv2dng ( http://www.magiclantern.fm/forum/index.php?topic=7802.0 ) or newer tools like MLRawViewer ( http://www.magiclantern.fm/forum/index.php?topic=9560.0 )
3. If you have any camera from the 500D to the 600D then it really doesn't matter how fast your SD card is (as long as it's at least 45mbs) because all of those cameras are limited to a 21mbs write speed.
4. RAW settings (whether MLV or RAW) are no longer reset everytime you restart your camera (although if the camera isn't shutdown properly, modules are still not loaded on the next boot.)
5. Pressing the zoom button one time will give you ML Grayscale preview  and twice will give you a full color 10x zoom
6. Your data transfer speed appears at the bottom of the screen when recording raw (along with lots of other useful information.) With my 16GB 45mbs Sandisk Extreme I get a consistent 20.5mbs transfer speed at 960x544.
7. The transfer speed for each resolution is listed at the bottom of the "Q" menu in the Movie section of ML under both "raw" and "mlv"
8. Bootflag can now be disabled on the 5D MKIII! http://www.magiclantern.fm/forum/index.php?topic=11017
9. Oh... and this cool tip will ABSOLutELY save your ass: How to open up After Effects, Adobe Camera Raw (because I hate acronyms) on ANY frame - http://www.magiclantern.fm/forum/index.php?topic=5683.msg43962#msg43962

1) go to your project browser, right click the footage and select Reveal in Bridge.

2) Instantly Adobe Bridge pops up with your sequence and you can highlight the whole lot and right click then select Open in Camera Raw.

3) Now you can select any frame on the right hand side, then click Select All, and then perform your adjustments. When you are finished, click "Done".

4)Then all you have to do is right click the sequence in the project browser and click Reload Footage and BOOM - behold your adjustments

10. Under the "RAW Video" Movie Setting in the ML (press Q) you can select the preview setting. (I'm not sure what the cropped image that in standard in MLV  live view is... but ML Grayscale is what you actually get in the final RAW file. Thanks to a1ex for providing the scoop). http://www.magiclantern.fm/forum/index.php?topic=5441.0

Note 6. Canon preview is standard full color, ML Grayscale is in B&W and also shows the video in its final cropped view (used for framing), Hacked is special fast hack to increase card writing speed at the expense of freezing Live View.

11. About sRAW (a note from a1ex):

sRAW:
- causes corruption on both GUI and captured picture (at least on 550D)
- judging from the kind of corruption, the side effects could be worse (hint: Canon code does not use memory protection)
- valid code for one camera can soft-brick another camera (that is, ERR70 even after you remove the ML card, but recoverable)

12. Unbricking the camera: Well you've ruined everything... What now? - http://magiclantern.wikia.com/wiki/Unbricking

13. Tip for making Compact Flash cards more reliable:

One of the things you could do is enable the Card Warm-Up option. Sometimes CF cards need to have data written on them a few times before they get up to full speed. Not sure why.

RAW/MLV file conversion

(The file you get after a successful shoot is either a .raw or a .mlv file which can be converted using one of the following programs.)

RAW2CDNG The best program of them all! Cooks you breakfast! http://www.magiclantern.fm/forum/index.php?topic=5618.0
MLV2DNG (my favorite) - http://www.magiclantern.fm/forum/index.php?topic=7802.0
MLVRawViewer -  http://www.magiclantern.fm/forum/index.php?topic=9560.0
RAW2DNG (Mac, Win, Linux) - http://www.magiclantern.fm/forum/index.php?topic=5404.0
OS/X gui wrapper for RAW2DNG - http://www.magiclantern.fm/forum/index.php?topic=5508.0
RAWmagic (OSX) - http://www.magiclantern.fm/forum/index.php?topic=6218.0
RAWanizer - http://www.magiclantern.fm/forum/index.php?topic=5557.0
Cr2HDR - http://www.magiclantern.fm/forum/index.php?topic=11056.0

Can the 5D3 bootflag still not be undone? And... if so... then why is that?

Also... what would happen if you simply loaded with a card that didn't have Magic Lantern on it? Would the wakeup time go back to .2 seconds?

Sorry if this is all redundant, but I just got into RAW video like LAST WEEK, and there's only about 20,000 threads I'd have to go over to find these answers now.

Ahhh

thanks

Hi everyone.

I've been using the 600D nightlies since the 21st of March and, for some reason, "sRAW" does not appear under "Shooting" or "Shooting Preferences."

Anybody have any idea why that could be?

(raw_rec and mlv_rec and every other setting appears to be fine... even Arkanoid is present...)

Is sRAW simply deprecated now? (I believe the posts I've been reading that mentioned it are from 2013...

Thanks. I think my idea and this ML controller kind of go hand in hand... if I can finish one it should be easy to do the other.

Hello there!

I'm an android programmer AND i have experience with crowdfunding.

I don't have much experience with programming for Magic Lantern, but I have worked on some other DSLR apps.

So if you're willing to put up that 200 bucks I'm willing to accept the challenge, start a kickstarter, and then hire a team of people to get this done.

Somebody have a link to Sztupy's apk?

What do you mean your 7D "died"? What happened to it exactly? And what were you doing?

Hi.

I'm mostly an Android and iOS developer. But i recently worked on a few dslr apps and it got me thinking...

...why not create a module or script that would allow Nikon's cheap WU-1B to function on the 5d3? *or any magic lantern canon for that matter...

I already have source files from my nikon app... it seems like a simple matter of convincing the adapter that it's connected to a D600.

Any ideas on where I could start? (don't know much about lantern dev...)

My bad. Just read through the manual. Apparently they only work while recording.

Would it be hard to arrange it so that they worked when in the video mode and NOT recording?

It would make it easier to figure out levels and THEN start recording.

Maybe this is just really... REALLY hard to do... but it would be nice.

Also it would be great if there were a way to disable Exposure Sim for the 600D-

Peaking, Magic Zoom, AND an external monitor!

...why take chances? :p

3 inch lcd is nice... TEN inch ips monitor is MONEY.

You can cross your fingers and hope that you're in focus... or you can BE in focus.

Ah ok... Thanks.

(Audio level meters still don't  work either: Don't worry... it'll be in my notes! :p )

EDIT: That did the trick! I can now SEE in F16 in Liveview.

Thanks!

Just got RC2... the option isn't under Expo 

It looks like there are fewer options overall. Maybe I need to switch to "Advanced Mode" or something? (If so... I don't remember how to do it...)

I think I remember something similar with 2.2... then I switched the mode and had more options or something...

Trying to remember where that setting lived in the older version. Under Tweaks > Exposure Simulation: off perhaps? Just look around for exposure simulation or pull up the documentation while in the ML menu by pressing DISP and skim through to see where it lives in the menus.

There's a LiveView Type: Frame and Focus... but it doesn´t work. No matter what I set it to it returns to ExpSim

Under the Expo menu, set LV Display to Photo, no ExpSim.

Actually I can't find these settings. I don't have an option for Photo under Liveview on the Expo menu.

I'm using the December 2011 2.2 on a 600D

Thanks! You're a lifesaver!

I am ABSOLUTELY shooting in manual mode.

My best friend is rockin' Buff's stuff. The Einstein's come highly recommended.

I absolutely love the results he's gotten.

You can check out his stuff on facebook: http://www.facebook.com/#!/AllHailProductions

It was almost ALL shot with the Einsteins (be sure to like his page if you like it :p )

I moved to Spain a while ago and Europe has a completely different LEAGUE of lighting choices. There's Elinchrom and Bowens and Interfit and Profoto... a lot of high-end stuff.

Buff has a great reputation though. And his Octabox is to die for.

Thanks for the help again!

You can go a long way with just a camera and a handheld reflector.  You can get even farther with a camera, a speedlight, and a reflector. But to really take your images to the next level you're going to eventually want to get some studio lights.

I originally intend to buy a git with three Tokura/Starblitz 150 watt strobes but a good photographer friend of mine recoiled in horror when I told him this and almost died. The salesman at the camera shop here in Barcelona wouldn't even sell them to me.  Even though the kit I was looking at only cost 259 euros... he reccommended the 700 euro Elinchrom D-Lite 4 it system.
n
Why the hell would I have even considered this?

The same reason I'm holding a Canon camera.  I used to have a Sony A200. I loved the camera. It took great pictures while I had it, but I never noticed what I was missing until I got my Canon (bigger selection of lenses, larger selection of Flashes, more wireless options, more accessories... etc...) It's the same with my choice of lights. I'm brand new to studio lighting... but even I had heard of Elinchrom.

Support for their products is DEEP with everyone from PocketWizard to Paul C. Buff making special versions of or adaptors for thier products to Elinchrom. Not only that, but the variety of original Elinchrom products is vast as well. And it's simply a higher quality of light and reliability and... ultimately... it actually winds up being cheaper. (Less money spent on parts breaking down, shipping for warranty, cheaper accessories... or NO accessories for the Tokura/Starblitz units and I probably would've had to buy the Elinchrom's in the long run anyway.)

Which brings me to Magic Lantern and my first photo shoot with the new kit.

Studio lighting really helps you learn to appreciate F11 and above... the caviat being it's hard to see a damned thing under ideal lighting conditions (ideal being pitch black). This is where the modeling lamps built into the Elinchrom units come in handy.  You can test out your lights and do your focusing under similar lighting conditions to when you snap the flash. The drawback being that it's sort of a pain setting up the modeling mode in-between every single shot. (One drawback to the D-Lite 4 it is that it comes with the Skyport Eco transceiver... which should've never been invented... instead of the Skyport Speed. The Eco stands for "Economy" as in "The Current State of the..." as in... "Not So Good" and you don't have control over the flash power or the modeling lamps like you would with the Skyport Speed. It ONLY snaps the flash.)

I went through a couple of settings but couldn't find anything that would buy me a better LiveView preview at high F-Stop (i.e. The kind of preview you would get if you had a flash attached to your camera at the same F-Stop) I just had my camera in my hands. At 1/160 F16 with no flash you have DARKNESS in LiveView. I attach my Yongnuo flash and you have LIGHT. I wish there was a way of telling the camera "But the light is COMING! I swear it!"

Obviously the camera is unaware that I've got two 400watt heads aimed at the subject. It would be nice if Magic Lantern could allow you to select the "I have a Flash" preview in LiveView.

But I was forced to squint hard and trust my gut feelings with the photos. All things considered I was very pleased with the results: http://www.flickr.com/photos/42146365@N06/7569125100/in/pool-elinchrom-d-lite

The Skyport Eco was a bit of a letdown... but the D-Lites did not fail me.

Ok here´s the deal:

You got used to zooming... now it´s time for you to get used to NOT zooming.

If you haven´t experienced the awe-inspiring pleasure of walking around with a 50mm 1.4 lens (or a 30mm 1.4 Sigma like mine...) then you're truly missing 3/4 of the fun of being a photographer.

I have the exact same camera as you do. I kept the 18-55 lens for when the going got tough... until I could afford an army of other lenses (which I can as of TOMORROW.)

I got the 30mm Sigma primarily to shoot concert footage in low light and I couldn't be happier. At 1600 ISO and F2 I get crisp... warm video in low light. And in daylight I get video so lean it would make you cry with your 18-55.

And you're talking about having to lug around extra gear? These prime lenses are TINY. (The Canon 50mm 1.8 is even smaller than the sigma 30mm... and much much cheaper.)

At your price range I recommend the Sigma 30mm and a decent 55-250 zoom since you're shooting video. And you might even have enough left over for a wide angle... which would cover all bases... with GOOD glass... and not just long glass.