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Messages - tronics

Quote from: Markus on February 09, 2014, 08:27:01 PM
You need a 1050x card that benchmarks above 110mb/sek with crystal disk mark to get stable fullhd mlv +sound stable. (Trancend usb3 udma 7 or equally fast card reader required.)

Thank you.

As I understand after multiple passes the best value is shown.
I always looked at the Write column in the first row..

114,5MB/s write with setting 9 times 500MB
111MB/s write with setting 5 times 1000MB
109.9MB/s write with setting 9 times 1000MB
109.5MB/s write with setting 9 times 2000MB
108MB/s write with 9 Times 4000MB

Sometimes there were passes that were below 110MB/s and then the last value allowed it to move above 110MB/s

So this means it does not work for me I suppose..
How much can I save without audio?
Where to get the latest nightly build of the
In the OP post there is only one link that did not change over time (as far as I understand).

I have a 128GB 1050x Komputerbay card. Is it worth switching to the current RAW version, or shall I stay with the old version because only the 64GB 1000x is reliable enough?

I have a Canon 5d mkIII and I need to shoot in minimum 1080p25 (located in Europe).

Thank you.
Hardware and Accessories / Re: Monitoring on tablets
August 11, 2013, 05:08:11 PM
Hmm, I know that the EOS Live is quite slow I have tested it with Canon 5d mkII mkIII
Probably it is 10fps. But is in no way a evf or something.
Better is a HDMI streaming usb stick from Blackmagic with a Windows 8 tablet.

I tried the Note with the Android app and a special cable and it lagged similarily.
However I wonder about the new Nexus 7. Probably it is the same but it hads the capability to give us more fps.
Quote from: Sthirasukha on August 07, 2013, 12:28:49 AM
All the tests with global draw on (with zebra on, cropmarks on) focus peak on, no hack mode)
Canon menu Raw+L
You can improve perfomance with Global Draw off and Canon Menu M.
Canon Menu L+Raw is definitly not good because then your buffer is smaller and that makes it not as stable.. practically this helps every card.

As well as heat up the card the first 1 GB might be slow.
I have only problems with my 128GB 1050x when recording more then 12000 frames but this seems more like an ML problem.
- brand KomputerBay 128 GB 1050x card
- size  128 GB
- UDMA 7
- 1080p25 works continous, 1920x1152p25 works continous, 1920x1152p30 around 20 seconds
- bought 1.August 2013
- how many: I bought 1

This is all with Global Draw On, focus assist, all hacks on.
In photomode S compressed was selected.
RAW + L led to dropped frames in many modes and I thought the card was not as good. Now I trust the card.

I will update this entry during the next 2 weeks in case I find that the card is not reliable.
Ok, I received my KomputerBay 128 GB 1050x card.
I did not do benchmark only regular recording. And I used the Transcend USB3.0 card reader.

I can record with Global Draw On, focus assist, all hacks on, 1920x1080p25 continuous and also 1920x1152p25 continuous.

I'm from europe so 25p is really good to have and our standard to work with.
I was hoping to get 30p for slowmo recordings of nature settings (where there is no electrical light) but this is not really possible - 20-30 seconds only.. for me this is not really useful but to some it might be.

The size of the card is amazing.. a lot of footage fits on there. Offloading is also fast.
For now it seems actually very good.
I need to try more before I can definitly say if the card is really as reliable as it seems.

When I record 13000 frames however after spawning over several 4 GB files the file the recording suddenly stops and cannot be used at all at the raw2cdng.1.2.1
I think that could also be ML. Hmm normally I would never record this long though.


I had problems in the beginning. Suddenly dropped frames although buffer was showing continuous ok.
So I felt I cannot trust the card and was a bit sad.

But what helped was that I set the image size in Photomode FROM Large RAW + Large jpg fine TO Small jpg compressed!! From then on I never had a dropped frame.
Then I updated to ML version 2.August, that might have helped as well but I think it was the former.

Best Regards
Quote from: MRozier on August 02, 2013, 01:05:41 AM
Hi I've just purchased 4 of these from 1050x 128gb cards from Komputerbay, but I'm trying to find a reliable way to test them and to find out if theyre a god send or duds.  Some are benchmarking them at 24p others 25p, some with live view and global draw on, some with both off.  Could someone give me a few ideas as to the settings I should be selecting when benchmarking these cards and ill post up the results I'm getting. 

I know the easy answer is just shoot until it fills the card and if it does without dropped frames its a winner, but there's so many options it'd be good to know what to benchmark it against (eg. Some people are shooting at 1920x1080, others more cropped, some 25p, others 24 etc etc).  If I knew a single set of standards to select it'd make comparing the cards much easier :) thanks in advance for your help! :)

Make sure to test over the whole 128GB as behaviour may change.
Let it run 25p all through when that works 3 times I think you should be fine. Global draw can be helpful when you have a card that allows using it .. makes you loose a few frames normally.

Best Regards
You can buy such reflectors for example from

I have a DoP kit, but when you start with purchasing first just a couple of large sized reflectors it will actually be a low price investment that lasts for a long time.
You will be good for the most part. Do not take a simple mirror this will be too harsh.
Take a K-Flector 2, K-Flector 3, or K-Flector 4. Those diffuse the light more the higher the number.

It was also used on this workshop here:

Hardware and Accessories / Re: sd to cf adapter
August 01, 2013, 01:50:19 PM
In regard to good performance the most interesting are the RAID0 adapters there is even one that takes 4 small cards.
Anyways they all end up somewhere around 50/60mbs. So unfortunately not worth the hassle, better to get a CF card.
Quote from: dlrpgmsvc on August 01, 2013, 04:37:58 AM
I have no 5dmk3! Only a 550d and a 50d... not applicable as for your thread title, right?
Ok, thank you. Yes, it would be ideal to keep that thread with the 5dmkIII.
I hope to be able to post something in there tomorrow. But will for sure also report if the card fails. :) 
I tried the Android DSLR Controller with a mobile phone as well as a Galaxy Note II.
And USB with EOS Utility to a fast Windows 8 tablet.

Both are fine  for framing but lag so much that I had to give up.
I think the problem is how to use expose to the right ETTR.

So you need a histogram for that and this you get with global draw on.
However there is an option to hide all this stuff as soon as hitting record.
So you do not have the performance drain of global draw but make your exposure correctly before you start

Quote from: ted ramasola on July 30, 2013, 04:03:55 PM
we already tried it. at different sizes, using easeUS partition master v. 6.2.2 then format at fat32, as low as 20gig, 32gig and 64. still wont work. The thing is, the camera still knows its 128. when we tested to format it when it was a lower size, the camera format returned it back to 128gig, totally disregarding the partition we made.
That's a pitty. Ok but Komputerbay seems to be friendly.. you could try to get an exchange with 2x 64GB 1000x with handing over a little extra money.
Seems to be the savest bet. Speed is limited in the mkII anyways - so 1000x or 1050x makes no difference.
Quote from: a1ex on July 30, 2013, 04:47:12 PM
I don't use After Effects, but here's a plugin that does it in VirtualDub:

or grab your C compiler and modify raw2dng to average all the video frames and output a single DNG. Or, average every X frames and output a DNG sequence with less frames. I'm sure others will find it useful.

Amazing thanks!
Quote from: a1ex on July 30, 2013, 04:34:46 PM
For very long exposure, recording at 1fps or so and averaging the frames in post should do the trick.

With this, you will also get better dynamic range (for example, when averaging 16 pics, the standard deviation of the noise should be 4 times lower, so you effectively get 2 stops of extra DR if I'm not overlooking something).

How to do "averaging" in After Effects? Never heard of it but sounds great!
Quote from: xRun on July 27, 2013, 11:29:00 PM
Ok, I see. I would actually take a full sensor picture every 5 or even 10 secs if I could get it, so going beyond 1fps is no hurdle for this purpose.
If I understand this correctly, silent low-res causes no mechanical movements but is only 1-2mpx in resolution. That would make it diffucult to pan across the recorded frames and still keep 1080p or better in the finished video. So that means high-res preferably with the whole 22mpx sensor recorded once every 5-10 seconds, or that's where I'm trying to get anyway, but without wearing out the shutter.
High-res silent seems like a good option even though it zigzags across the frame to get all of it, but with a 10 or even 20 second exposure there would be tearing and other issues with the interval between whole high-res frames climbing into minutes. It's a challenge, I know, and best bet so far seems to be 3.5k with a wider lens, cause that'll produce high-res images in a single shot each time, and with some room to pan in post. It's limited to use between dawn and dusk though, cause I'm not getting those extra long exposures in this mode.

I want to do the same. We made one film where we had 4000 shutter releases, now the client wants 50 such films - crazyness!
Did you find a solution yet?
What could be interesting to know before you decide is that you cannot use an external monitor ( and no soundrecording in RAW.
So working with Ninja 2 might make more sense if you for example work on ENG stuff, filming a longer take that cannot be repeated like a concert or interview.

It depends what you want. When you want only the best image and have lots of time then start your hunt to find a good CF card.

Everyone has other needs. I want the RAW.
Quote from: dlrpgmsvc on July 30, 2013, 12:17:44 PM
Lexar card = good --> Lexar card + Lexar reader = Perfect.    Many thanks !  ;)
dlrpgmsvc can you please post your success story here, it would be helpful:
You could probably partition the card differently then the camera thinks it is a 64GB.
That way you could also select the part of the card that performs best. Big disadvantage (if it works at all) is for sure that you do not benefit from the size of the card.
Quote from: dlrpgmsvc on July 30, 2013, 12:14:46 PM
There is no democratization on quality. This is a well established market rule, and forever will be.
Look at the car industry. Safety of a 13000 car is going towards the same as a 40000 car. At least with European crash tests.
Look at mobile phones. It gets cheaper and cheaper and the quality is really all there. I have a 150 Euro Android. But I had also a Iphone 4s and a Windows 8 one in use. It is at the same stage at the most important parameters.

You may be right that this card is not good. I have not tested it.
But the price of these cards is NOT because it is so expensive to make them. It is only a blown up price.
Manufacturing one of this cards cost 20 USD in China by both Lexar and Komputerbay.
Quote from: dlrpgmsvc on July 30, 2013, 12:17:44 PMeasy to do 1+1=2, so: Lexar card = good --> Lexar card + Lexar reader = Perfect.    Many thanks !  ;)
Should be avoided with the Komputerbay 128GB 1050x. It is really only about this card.
Sure with Lexar it is fine. No worries.
Quote from: dlrpgmsvc on July 30, 2013, 12:14:46 PM
You even didn't read the link I posted, so you cannot draw conclusions on only one line of my text.
Dear, I read it 2 weeks ago.

Official comment:
Whoever is right I do not care as long as there is a card exchange guarantee in case it does not work (Eoshd also writes that this is possible).
Quote from: pascal on July 30, 2013, 12:42:17 PM
I have a Lexar card reader and no problems with it in conjunction with KompBay cards.
To clarify, this only goes for the new 128GB 1050x card. It could destroy it.
Regarding the CF card readers, make sure to get a one that was reported to work well and where you do not loose time in the workflow.
It is the lowest cost part of the puzzle anyways.

The Kingston FCR-HS3 is recommended for the best speed results  (source Komputerbay).  ~18 Euro
Transcend RDF8 USB 3.0 Memory Card Reader is ok (source Komputerbay). ~13 Euro
Lexar card readers should be avoided (source forum).
USB2.0 card readers should be avoided (source forum).
Quote from: dlrpgmsvc on July 30, 2013, 09:44:22 AM
If komputerbay cards costs so much less than real branded ones like Lexar, there is a reason.
Well, I don't think that you found the ultimate reason for the lower price.
Where is a Lexar 1050x card anyway? Should exist if it get's recycled.
In the discount supermarket you also get the same goods under white labels.

I had numerous, endless returns with OCZ SSD products. 8 returns in 1 month with different products of them. All total failure.
Now that is a brand. And it costs very similar to all the other brands.
You cannot draw conclusions from the price. Democratization of goods is happening.