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Not really.

Here are a couple of facts:

1. on the 5D3, the maximum non-crop resolution is 1920x1288. Any higher horizontal resolution requires to go into crop mode which has its own issues and it's really not practical for more high end productions.

2. Spanning adds an extra layer of uncertainty to the data which I think many people would prefer not to deal with. There was talk about spanning when audio was not available, but nowadays with mlv's both audio and video get recorded quite well on a single CF card.

3. Komputerbay has released 1066X 64Gb cards which appear to be able to give extra speed so that even 30fps at 1920x1288 is perhaps doable.

4. Without spanning, I have been able to record (on a well specced CF card) at 2.5K raw (at 2.35:1), so spanning to achieve those resolutions might not necessarily even be required.

Yesterday we did a shoot with my 5D3 on the May 16 build. Some of our takes exceeded 10 minutes without any issue whatsoever.

My cards are all formatted ExFAT with the >4Gb option enabled.

Why would you need a hack for the GH4? To shoot raw 4K? I find it difficult to believe that the SD card could keep up with the enormous data rates, considering that even the Blackmagic 4K needs to write compressed ProRes and eventually compressed CDNG on an SSD drive.

If you're itching to shoot raw, have you considered the Blackmagic Pocket equipped with the Speedbooster? More and more of my pro friends have bought it and love it. As a matter of fact, a good friend of mine (and a name in the industry) is planning to shoot his next feature on the pocket.

is it worh selling my 60d to get a 50d?

I don't think so. What are your needs?

How about you don't sell your 60D but rather add a 50D?

Didn't actually try it, but I still believe it fits on the easy coding task list.

The easiest way should be to select the SD card from Canon menu (since H.264 will use that), and force RAW/MLV recorder to use the CF drive regardless of the current card choice.

Hello Alex,

Would this task the CPU too much? I actually never thought that it'd be possible for the camera to handle recording simultaneously h.264 and raw, but I will say that if such a thing could be implemented, it would be a fairly major game changer and confidence booster for many videographers. Cool, I didn't know it could possibly be done.

as I said in the beginning of this post if anyone could get this working I'll make a nice donation to the ML development team!

I'm always puzzled by this 'implement-something-I-want-and-I'll-give-you-a-donation' tactic. I think it's kinda backwards, in the sense that the developers aren't doing this for money, but the money does go toward purchasing gear that they can test on. In this case perhaps an Atomos Ninja. By withdrawing your money until after the fact, you're kinda negating progress to be made in the first place by not allowing them to go out and purchase the very thing they need to realize your request.

If your thought about a "nice donation" is meant as a monetary reward for the team of developers, so that they can take their kids to Disneyland, I seriously doubt that the amount you'd be willing to contribute would go very far toward improving their financial welfare.

I'm sorry but I don't understand what you mean by this.

What that means is that if you want it, you better roll up your sleeves and learn how to code.

Is there some way to set it to shoot at a letter box ratio that doesn't need to be stretched? other wise I don't think the 7D would be worth it for me.

If you're looking for a slow motion raw solution, you really should consider the 5D3. IMHO the 7D has too restrictive of a write speed to achieve slow motion footage that doesn't suffer from needing to be stretched and up-rezzed in post.

With the current crop of technology, I think asking for slow motion and raw shooting might be a bit too much. Perhaps something like the Panasonic GH4 might appeal to you, even though it's most definitely not shooting raw.

I wonder if you can use the Search function to find the answer to a question that has been asked only a gazillion times before?

really searched? http://www.magiclantern.fm/forum/index.php?topic=12075.0

I think they should start teaching "How to search on the internet" in public schools. I'm not kidding, and this doesn't only apply to the ML forums. I think there are some people (many of them actually) who either don't know how to enter appropriate search words, or get so easily frustrated that if their top result doesn't match exactly what they're looking for, they give up.

FWIW, I've shot acceptable looking footage at 3200 ISO on my 5D3. Granted noise acceptability can be a bit of a subjective thing, but I feel that even 1600 ISO can provide a rather clean video image.

You should be able to push well past 1000 ISO without running into anything that looks overly noisy. However if the sensor is overheated, that can actually add noise to the image regardless of the ISO.

I think people misunderstand ETTR.

What ETTR means is not necessarily to use the auto-mode, but rather to get an exposure which might seem a tad bright for your end purpose, but which contains better data in the image.

Some DP's prefer to shoot as they want the final product to look, so if they prefer a darker overall image, they will underexpose. When shooting raw, this is a mistake. It's best to push the exposure, and then tone it down in post.

ETTR simply means push your exposure as high as it will go without blowing out your highlights.

Just muddy looking shit. You know the deal...less bits assigned to the shadows. Why else shoot in ETTR then?

Also, are you ETTRing? Underexposure will likely result in an image with artifacts in the mids and shadows...not necessarily noise but it can be commonly mistaken for noise.

For all intents and purposes, an underexposed image at a lower ISO will result in considerably noisier-appearing video than a slightly overexposed image at higher ISO that's been clamped down in post.

On the 5D3 anything below 1600 should be pretty damn clean. Are you sure your sensor isn't overheated?

I think 1.2.3 allows you to monitor on both...but I have never used it. You might want to ask in the 1.2.3 thread.

What nightly?

Pretty sure it is parfocal

Not according to several people who actually use them. Just do a quick Google search, or better yet, test it with your own if you have one. It also appears that the amount of focus shift in the zoom varies depending on the camera body that it's mounted on.

http://www.magiclantern.fm/forum/index.php?topic=8752.0

I don't think so. Raw is recording exactly what is hitting the sensor at all times. Is it possible that while you zoom, you're zooming into a slightly darker area?

Also, the 24-105 isn't par focal so when you zoom your focus is drifting perhaps causing a perception of the image darkening?

Doe the footage look fine in other apps like Lightroom or Aftereffects?

You heard of the 80/20 rule? This very much applies with ML raw, except it's more like the 95/5 rule.

The main advantage of shooting in raw is twofold. Firstly your image contains much more detail coming in from the sensor, resulting in a sharper image that resembles that of much higher end cameras. The second advantage is that you are given more latitude in post to do aggressive grading.

These two major improvements are gained the moment you begin shooting with ML raw (ideally on a camera like the 5D3). Any additional pixel peeping is IMHO a bit of a waste of time that even some of the most ardent professionals in our industry wouldn't be bothered with. ACR's debayering algorithm has a slight edge over Resolve's (although in about two weeks, that might be moot). The image improvement advantage that you gain is not worth (once again IMHO) the extra expenditure of time, hard drive space, and complexity to the workflow.

I generally shy away from saying things like "the general public will never notice any difference", but in this particular case I do think it's quite true. We tend to sometimes become overly fixated with these things that it becomes an unhealthy obsession. As a builder of several Hackintoshes, I know I get obsessed with squeezing every bit of performance out of the CPU as possible, but at some point I realized that it's much better to have a slower but robust and reliable machine than a slightly faster but quirky computer. I think the same philosophy definitely applies here.

Sounds like it could be your graphics card, or possibly your computer not being powerful enough.

Care to give us some relevant technical info to go with your question?

Here is a simple and easy way to synchronize two or more cameras together:

[This is how most of us learned, by doing and not by asking.]

Okay thanks for the response, what a wonderful community you have here.

GetSmokes,

You have to understand that for people like us who are regulars around here, we see the same identical questions asked over and over again by people who for the most part are (sorry for my bluntness) either too lazy or too stupid to dig up the answer themselves. When people typically say they "searched all over the forum and didn't find anything", I have to seriously question their search methodology, or if they typed some generic search term, got frustrated when the first post didn't have the exact answer they were wanting, and decided to create yet another thread instead.

The other point is that ML is a work in progress and not necessarily a commercial product with specific instructions and recommended settings. Experimentation is really necessary to get the best out of your camera. I would strongly advise you (and all the others with similar questions) to install ML on your camera and go out and shoot a bunch of stuff with different settings.

This is how most of us learned, by doing and not by asking.

Lastly, if you're the type to get easily frustrated by complicated settings and lack of documentation, I would seriously urge you to consider other options for shooting raw such as the really awesome and cost-effective Blackmagic Pocket Camera. Despite what you might have heard, it's actually a hell of a camera, certainly one that gives the 7D a run for its money when it comes to shooting raw.

It is really strange that you have searched the forums and not found the answer since it has been discussed and cleared up so many times.

Just a quick search for the term "4Gb Limit" revealed tons of threads with the answer you're looking for.

Having said that, yes, ML auto splits files in 4Gb segments so that you can record as long as there is space on the CF card.