Messages

Now for the questions,

One problem I ran into today repeatedly was the ability to ficus accurately manually using LV, Focus Peaking, and the Zoom Box for assisting focus. This was even more the case when I converted the raw files on my computer only to find that half of my shots were blatantly out of focus. This coupled with the fact that the 50D LCD screen does not swivel and even on maximum brightness still gets easily drowned out by direct sunlight. So naturally I tried using the LV AF but to zero response from the camera. Has anyone here had any experience with this issue? And if so have you been able to develop a operational fix for getting the AF operational?

And as a side note I found that the focus peaking module was overall the most effective tool for visually confirming focus. However it is VERY taxing on the camera even in low-res sampling mode and requires to be manually shut off every-time I begin shooting consuming valuable time in the process. If there is any chance the option to hide or essentially temporarily disable this module whilst recording could be added it would be incredibly useful. Unless there already exists some method...

Thanks for any and all responses,
-Daen

I have not used AF since I installed ML. 

For strong light, get a LCD Viewfinder. Most have a bit of magnification, which is nice.

Focus peaking is amazing, but I too disable when I shoot.  To save a few valuable seconds while shooting, set up LV Display Presets. Quickly toggle LV overlays just by pressing INFO.  I have one set up with No Overlays (recording 1080), one with just RAW Histogram (full frame shooting), and one with all my desired overlays (for setting up my shot).
http://www.magiclantern.fm/forum/index.php?topic=1729.0

Also, turn on Cartoon Mode 1 under Creative Effects in the Movie tab to sharpen edges on display, which are not saved to RAW Video file.  When you have Focus Peaking off while recording, this serves as a slight improvement over No Overlays.

Edit Also, what lens are you using that is giving you so much trouble focusing manually?

If you set snap to 5x in zoom prefs and snap to center before you zoom, what you see on screen is what you get at 1080. Preview is in B&W

Thank you for a new build lads!

I need your help again. Every overexposed element gets stripes. Any cure?

The horses are turning to zebras!  Almost looks like your zebras from GD are being put into RAW (not really happening, just what it looks like).

Sorry that's happening, good luck on a cure.

Someone mentioned that the Canon 5OD does work with an Android tablet. However, there are some strange circumstances with the way it works... Might want to do a quick research through the past five pages or so... I kind of considered this option too... However, the limitations made using an HDMI monitor far more user friendly, in my opinion...

Yup.... That was me quoting me.... I've done the testing already to show RAW breaks LV on the 50D.  Just trying to make it conversation again, because it seems that the 5D3 has RAW LV, while the 50D does not.

I also tried to Magic Lantern Controller app for Android which does not work for me now. https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=hu.sztupy.android.mlcontroller&hl=en

I remember trying this on an earlier RAW build (sadly don't remember which, but at least 2 weeks back) and I did have LiveView showing on my tablet using this app. 

Any chance someone else out there could test to see if LiveView over USB is working for them?  Easiest way to test would be EOS Utility if you have it installed on your computer.  Wanting to get this set up before a shoot next weekend and I'd rather not rent a HDMI monitor when I already own a very capable 7" tablet.

Off to dig through my downloads folder to test some old builds on my backup card to see what will work.  Sadly I'm no code expert, so I'm no help in finding it there. Maybe if I can find a working build a smarter up could help me compare?

EDIT: So I jumped back to one of the unified builds.  ml-2013Jun18.50D.109.go.unified.d55f33a1d395 to be exact.  No issue with LiveView in EOS Utility. Going to move forward and try to find where it was broken.

NEW EDIT:  So it turns out after a few tests with quite a few builds, that LiveView works just fine with MagicLantern, until you enable RAW video.  What I was running as my daily driver, I had my modules autostart which led me to believe it was the new builds that broke LiveView.  When you install a new build (or old while I was testing back) the modules are usually set to not load at start.  So with no RAW video enabled, LiveView works 

Thanks

Sorry to harp on this, but it seems a 5d3 user has liveview working with RAW video on an Android tablet.

http://www.magiclantern.fm/forum/index.php?topic=7054.msg58951#msg58951

Does anyone using the 50D have a 5D2 as well to help me with some testing?  Seeing as a good amount of hardware is the same in the two, I'd like to know if the 5D2 works and compare to the 5D3 from there.

I own a Nexus 7 which I hook up to my 50D.
Hook up over USB
Using the app DSLR Controller you have full control over all Canon functions.  Focus, ISO, Shutter, Focus, etc.
Usually outputs around 15fps which is pretty reasonable for video review on set.
Using this app, it does not show any of the Magic Lantern functions. However, it does have a few of its own. Bracketing, Timelapse, etc.

The Glaxay Tab 2 should work for you.

Be warned though, if you plan on shooting RAW video, you will get no video output over USB with RAW enabled.  I tested this in the 50D dev thread for RAW video, and as of now there is no workaround.

http://www.magiclantern.fm/forum/index.php?topic=5586.msg56411#msg56411

Nice video simulacro.  I like your still composition for quite a few of the shots.  Your exposure and dynamic range look pretty good.  Watch a few videos for Resolve tutorials to really pull some colours.  The waveform scope has become my new best friend.  Hitting ⌘D to show before and after, even just after expanding my colour range in Resolve, shows a world of difference.

Good video & Good luck

Hello All,

First off thanks for the hard work/community of this forum, really amazing. 

So just got a nice low shutter 50D and loaded up the June 28th build and it's working but a bit strange.  I can only shoot about 400mb of footage before it stops recording. Could this be buffer issues that I could tweak? In addition I just can't seem to be able to change the resolution size beyond the raw default. I have tried but my gray menu says "N/A" and even when I hit function I can't seem to trigger anything new.

I'm sure within the 84 pages of posts the answers are there (and I have looked) but any simple newbie advice would be great.

One thing to know:I picked up the Komputer Bay UDMA7 card that is 128G.  Could this be the problem? Maybe the it should be 64 or maybe UDMA6?



Thanks again in advance

J

Try this.  Getting up to 81.8mb/s on a 32GB Komputerbay 1000x now

Instead of Dialog Timers, find 'Small Hacks' in the RAW Video section and turn on.  This is the new that.
Also, in the most recent build, there is a 'Warm up Card' function, which preforms the first write on boot.

http://www.magiclantern.fm/forum/index.php?topic=5586.msg54376#msg54376

Komputerbay 32GB 1000x card is working really well with the most recent build GregoryOfManhattan, thanks!

Getting over a full minute of 1920x1080 with no special exfat formatting, just running it through the card.  I don't intend to shoot 1080 all the time (that crop at 5X on my 24-70 2.8 is heavy & ~4.2mb/CDNG is killing me), regular framing still upscales nicely, but it is so nice to know that we can shoot over a minute of full RAW 1080 goodness.

Below is a shaky video of some fireworks on the 4th.  So windy up there, and my crappy pull focus really shows, but I'm really happy with the colours and lack there of (blacks).  Original video was over 1 minute, but I chopped off the first few seconds because the shake was unbearable.

Watch on YouTube at 1080 for full quality

I wouldn't wait on an update from your carrier.  Could take months, or even a year (I have a love for Android, but a hate for the fragmentation).

If you are running Magic Lantern on your camera, you are definitely tech savvy enough to root your phone and flash a .zip file for a new kernel.

Okay so I'm running continuously at 1584 x 1056 which is exciting. I just need to squeeze a bit extra out for my focus peaking on Global Draw, is this possible? I'm using Gregory of Manhattens June 28th build, 32GB Komputerbay 1000x, small hack's on. Global draw just focus peaking activated.

Found this posted somewhere on the forums.  If you can't use Focus Peaking (which is awesome btw) try using Cartoon Look 1 under Creative Effects.  Movie tab -> Creative Effects -> Cartoon Look -> Mode 1

This brings out the edges quite a bit more.  Of course, this does not write to the RAW file, so you're all good.  Not nearly as good as Focus Peaking, but a good alternative for finding edges if you can't get that squeeze.

Yeah. Bummer.

At least you can frame your shot with a USB monitor.

With camera unplugged from USB;
Power on
Switch LiveView on
Set your desired RAW settings
Go to Modules tab
Disable autolaod modules on boot
Power off (wait for activity lights to stop blinking)
Plug in USB to tablet (USB OTG needed)
Power on (this auto boots DSLR Controller on my tablet)
LiveView should be working! 
Frame your shot
When ready click the Trash icon to get to ML Menu and turn on RAW in Movie tab (this will freeze (or black out) LiveView on your tablet
From here, all adjustments available through DSLR Controller (pretty much every stock Canon setting) is still adjustable through your tablet (just no LiveView on your screen

It shouldn't break usb output, Ill have to try connecting to something and check.

I also tried to Magic Lantern Controller app for Android which does not work for me now. https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=hu.sztupy.android.mlcontroller&hl=en

I remember trying this on an earlier RAW build (sadly don't remember which, but at least 2 weeks back) and I did have LiveView showing on my tablet using this app. 

Any chance someone else out there could test to see if LiveView over USB is working for them?  Easiest way to test would be EOS Utility if you have it installed on your computer.  Wanting to get this set up before a shoot next weekend and I'd rather not rent a HDMI monitor when I already own a very capable 7" tablet.

Off to dig through my downloads folder to test some old builds on my backup card to see what will work.  Sadly I'm no code expert, so I'm no help in finding it there. Maybe if I can find a working build a smarter up could help me compare?

EDIT: So I jumped back to one of the unified builds.  ml-2013Jun18.50D.109.go.unified.d55f33a1d395 to be exact.  No issue with LiveView in EOS Utility. Going to move forward and try to find where it was broken.

NEW EDIT:  So it turns out after a few tests with quite a few builds, that LiveView works just fine with MagicLantern, until you enable RAW video.  What I was running as my daily driver, I had my modules autostart which led me to believe it was the new builds that broke LiveView.  When you install a new build (or old while I was testing back) the modules are usually set to not load at start.  So with no RAW video enabled, LiveView works 

Thanks

Thanks for all the hard work on squeezing every bit of speed out of this camera.  Shot another low light concert in Boston last night with great results.  Just built a little stabilizer and it is working out great! http://goo.gl/lz5Iw (Added bike handlebar grip for a nicer fit and look since)

One question on the 'squeeze' though;

Since parts of the Canon base are slowly being taken out or disabled to favor write speed, would this break the LiveView output over USB to another device?

I am having trouble getting an image to display in both DSLR Controller (Android App) and EOS Utility on my computer, which I was instructed to test by the DSLR Controller developer, to see if it was an issue with his app and ML or if something in this build stripped that functionality.  All other controls input through DSLR Controller show changes on my camera.  Change shutter speed, aperture, ISO, etc, they all update.  Just no image.

Thanks

Hey guys - I'm in Thailand currently on the island of Koh Samui. I'm about to go out and shoot some raw video. I have the latest build from @gregoryofmanhattan - but it seems like the highest resolution is still 1584 x 892.

How do I get it to record 1920 x 1080? Or just higher resolutions in general? Sorry to be such a n00b about it - just want to shoot some amazing footage on this island to share.

http://www.magiclantern.fm/forum/index.php?topic=5586.msg54376#msg54376

Ignore part about Debug and Dialog Timers if you are on latest build.  Instead turn on Small Hacks in RAW menu.  Part you want is in bold..

[sometimes]

Am I right folks that with raw recording in 50D using fast cf card, we can only record less than 20 seconds?

No.  I am using a Komputerbay 1000x card (like many here) and can record at full sensor (1584x892 @ 16.9 ratio) continuous till I fill my card.  And this upscales quite nicely if you are good with your original capture exposure, and handiness in RAW edits.  At 24fps this only requires about 55mb/s.  Cropped frame (1920x1080) for me shoots about 30-45 seconds sometimes using 1%'s Dialog Timer "off" settings.  This requires about 83mb/s which my card currently caps at around 77-78mb/s (resulting in less than 45 second full HD recordings seeing as the buffer will eventually fill with no idle, forcing the recording to stop).

also can select LV output device.. have to check on that...

Does that include over USB?  I used to use DSLR Controller with my Nexus 7 for photo composition and time lapse functions before I installed Magic Lantern.  Currently locks up using RAW video and or Zoom Mode.  Not a huge issue, would just be nice to use a nice 7in screen I already usually have with me as an external display.

Anyone else use this app for Android? 

http://dslrcontroller.com/

Thanks CaptainOfObvious! I used Canon f1.8 50mm, wide open at an 1600 ISO. In resolve I interpreted my clip exposure at 0.90. The source files are nice and sharp.

Best cheap (really cheap) Canon lens for low light.  I've tested against the 1.4 in quite a few settings and really haven't seen that considerable a difference for your price.

Here is another low light video graded in Resolve using the Canon 50mm 1.8  Click 'Show More' in the description to compare to the same clip without BlackMagic settings in Resolve and a few more tweaks.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DYVq7W7tEh8

(btw, song is not the original. Just picked a freebee off YouTube to make the video more bearable. So ignore a bit of sync if you will)

Native video in the ML menu isn't working so great with settings changes right now.  All the dev is focused on RAW video.  I posted a set of directions in another post that details how to get 1920x1080 @ 24fps

http://www.magiclantern.fm/forum/index.php?topic=5586.msg54376#msg54376

That post assumes you already have everything from that forum topic installed.  So go to page one and read up, then read that post.

Hope this helps

Guys....I am still lost......not able to make any RAW recording, I am just getting video recording, a .MOV file each time i tried to record RAW, I will describe what i am doing and will appreciate somebody help me with the missed steps...

Any help will be much appreciated!!!! (I am so noob in canon and ML)...thanks

Far right tab in ML menu is Modules.  You need to enable the modules included in the build (most importantly the RAW one for this, but enable all of them)

Then go back to Movie tab and at the bottom, you will see RAW Video.  Turn on and enjoy

Granted, you don't need to format every time.  This is just the process I use for speedtests on new builds. 

[To set 1920x1080; In LV go to 5X Zoom, set Aspect Ratio to 16:9 and Resolution to 1920x1080 in RAW Video settings in ML settings]

Sorry if I've missed something, but when I try any of the builds more recent than about June 15th my raw write speeds have dropped to 35-45Mb/s at 1x crop, largest image size.  I've reformatted cards, rebuild core ML, used all the settings that were working before (Global Draw:LiveView, fps override, etc.) -- still it seems odd.  (KompBay 64G 1K card). There was an Andy600 build with a 'fast_raw' that worked fine - then I moved to the mainstream builds and I'm going backwards.  I'm hoping that I might have missed something obvious and that someone might set me straight.
I've searched for answers and read all the posts under this topic.

Many thanks,
D

My process for a cap of 77.7mb/s @ 1920x1080 @ 24fps on a 32GB Komputerbay 1K on 1%'s most recent posted on last page;

Boot camera
Format card
Set all desired settings for recording (FPS, Overlays, Resolution, pretty much just set up your shot now)
To set 1920x1080;    In LV go to 5X Zoom, set Aspect Ratio to 16:9 and Resolution to 1920x1080 in RAW Video settings in ML settings
Power down camera
Boot camera
Open ML menu
Navigate to Debug tab
Scroll down to Dialog Timers and set to Disabled
Open LiveView
Record your first shot @ no crop and let the speed peak (I usually let it sit for a minute)
Zoom to 5x and record your new 1920x1080 shot

Hope this helps. And to the smarter ups, does disabling the Dialog Timer have any negative impact?

New guy here, everything seems straightforward, I just have a couple questions because I haven't seen them addressed in the forums thus far:

1) My crop mode clips are pink. My full-sensor clips are fine. What gives?

2) Besides shooting in crop mode, disabling everything I can in the Canon menus, and leaving as little up to the camera as I can (e.g. AWB etc), and turning off Global Draw, what specifically can I do to optimize this camera for higher write speeds? My benchmarks regularly top out at 50-55mb/s and I'm using a 1000x/32GB card. I haven't ruled out the card being bad, but before I send it back what can I do to verify it's not fast enough?

Same issues with 5x pink frames.  Regular sensor frames are fine.

I have the same card (and am doing a bit faster than yours) and have been tweaking settings like crazy to try to get close to 80mb/s.  I'm capping at about 67mb/s right now. 

Running mlmod Jun20th build by GregoryOfManhattan with the stock raw module included in that pack.

It sounds the RAW hack is super battery hungry - do any of you use a battery grip for your 50D? What kind? Are there grips which provide a lot of power through AA batteries? The ones I saw take 6 AAs; with my Eneloops (2000mAh) it's only 40% more Wh than a single BP-511 battery, doesn't look interesting. Are there grips which would have triple or more the Whs of BP-511? I never had a need for grip, with my 3 batteries, but now with the video feature I might reconsider.

I can't attest to this one, yet, but I just got it delivered from Amazon.  Holds 2x 50D batteries or has a cartridge for 6x AA for emergency use.  Seems pretty nice for the cost.  Screws into the 1/4-20 thread for quick release and has a strong screw to keep contract to the camera's battery receiving  end.  Also has a 1/4-20 tread so you can put a quick release on the bottom (important!)  Side buttons for shooting photos vertically work fine.

Nice to have the 2x battery capacity.  I was running through a fully charged 2200mAh in about 30min of footage (including setup in LV).  60 min will be nice and I have 2 more stock Canon 1390mAh backups.  So theoretically about 2 hours of footage with my 50D batteries and maybe another 20-30 min on the 6x AA cartridge.  Not so bad...  Will update with results soon.

Forgot link http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003MACYGS/ref=oh_details_o03_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

ok i guess i'ts time to get a 1000x card now

Yup, cruising along @ 30fps and even had enough buffer and idle to turn raw histogram on during recording.  Getting about 73-76mb/s write and still have some idle.  Wonderful work