Messages

I have bought one yet. I found a cheap SankorF which doesn't have rear threads but after a lot of reading and watching videos I can see it's a bit soft. I'll try to get an Isco if I can find one cheap enough but as you know, the prices are a bit crazy atm. I'm watching eBay to see what comes up.

Have you had any framing issues? I assume that it's pretty important for the crop area to be inline with the center of the lens because of the way anamorphic lenses bend the image. I can imagine weird things happening to the image if the crop is offset.

I havent tried it again, I did one month ago and it was almost impossible, specially because in greyscale mode you can't move the window once you zoomed in. Haven't tried the latest builds because I've been busy. If I find a nice cheap projection lens I'll let you know, but remember they don't have the nice touch of the sankor. If you found a good deal on a sankor go for it. The sankor 16f has a small rear. (I consider a good deal if its sub 100€) But yes, the sankor for crop mode is not such a good idea.

Andy what lens have you in mind for anamorphic shooting? I have a sankor 16c and a Isco Ultra Star projection lens. The sankor has a nice touch but for crop mode the sharpness of the Isco is much better.

This is RAW, I extracted DNG's with RAWanizer and corrected them in AE. I will try to disable focus peaking, but it is disabled while recording.

Probably the ACR flickering, don't use shadow recovery or highlight recovery.
http://www.magiclantern.fm/forum/index.php?topic=7571.0

Mitch from Planet 5D has seen an early sample from a D700–but it's only recording around 1.5 frames per second

where is this coming from? Source?

Resolve 10 is out and the pink dots are gone!!!

Pink Green dots fixed!!!!! Debayering works fine now!

If camera is set to stock 1080p and than cropped to get desired resolution in raw mode - yes, it works and works really good.

VAF works the same in every camera but of course particular VAF models work with the cameras they were designed for (because of the size and mount).

And resolution...

I get a lot of hotpixels when doing timelapses at night with 0.2s shutter

When you put it into jello mode it goes up to 1/2000, you told me a few weeks ago and it works.

Print a test chart with the highest dpi you have available. The filter should work perfectly fine in full sensor mode, and you should do the tests in that mode. For real life tests I would suggest very fine detail in very contrasty situations. Typical are: Trees against the sky, grass against the sky, water (sea,river,etc...) with very small waves and reflection of buildings on it should give terrible moire without the filter, also distant buidlings (sky line),etc...

In 2.5crop mode (5x zoom) you will be able to see how the filter blurs the lines, it's not suited to film that way, if you want crop mode take the filter off.

is not possible a got Transcend 400x 32gb cf card and look dat video he used the same cf, you have an explication plz ? http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5eCgWgv6Mlo

Also you have to choose the setting, "stop at skipped frames" (or something like that). As you can see in that video he just makes very short "videos".

Is that you again Monti? 

You do realize Mods can check your IP right?

Apologies if you're someone else but posting pointless images like this and sarky comments like your first post will likely get you kicked

It's monti, look at his shitty name, his lack of attention was killing him.

At 1920 x 1080 on the 5D mkIII the 256gig 1200x gives the following results;

24P = continuous recording (similar to 1000x)

30P = approx 330 frames (similar to 1000x)

Thanks for posting the link, most of the test results I placed there including some screen shots
so people can go to it and I won't be posting them again over different threads.

http://www.ramasolaproductions.com/6.html

What about crop mode? The same I guess...

I have a 12mm and focusing is hard in sunlight (the dof is very broad at 12mm f4) so even in when you zoom in 10x youre never sure unless you have a magnification lens (which I don't). Usually when you focus a lens you will see the "pop" of getting into focus, but when you are at 12mm you need very good viewing conditions to see that. Maybe with an autofocus lens this is not such an issue, mine is a nikon 12-24mm fit onto an adapater. I get 48mm equivalent with that, the equivalent f stop (don't read it if you don't like it) is f16 so everything is in focus or slightly in focus unless you are focusing to infinity and have something 50cm away.

That's only true if the sensor size stays the same.

You are obviously not going to be able to take the same shot in crop mode as in full sensor mode with a 50 1.4, you would need a 20mm f0.56 to have the same image, I think these f stop comparsions work perfectly fine from an photograpic standpoint.

The d7000 thing is not going to happen, there is just 1 guy looking into it and they are still figuring out basic stuff on the firmwares, don't even think of being able to use the two card slots to give 40mb/s. The test he made was writing around 20mb/s so... And it was just junk, no actual images.

yeah maybe...

Not maybe, it's actually a fact.

2.475x at 1920p to be precise

2.376x at max 2000px

I didn't actually think about this until you mentioned it 

I was handholding my sankor 16 anamorphic in front of the 50d to try out crop mode, so I thought, 58mm/3= 18,3mm will do fine but I it was full of vignetting, so I just did the math and there it is
Btw, is there a way to center the crop mode center to the sensor center, it's a pain in the ass to guess because in ML hacked preview you can't move the crop window, or it's super super buggy.

Hey I've been doing some shots in crop mode and I wanted to say that if you shoot with 1920 horizontal resolution it's actually a 2.5x crop not a 3x crop.

I bought this one: http://www.amazon.es/Lexar-Professional-Lector-USB-ranuras/dp/B004P8J1DU/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1377629700&sr=8-1&keywords=lexar+card+reader
works perfectly and is very fast.

did you really have to quote the whole thing? lol

I thought I pressed modify :S

error

Andy has been very kind and shared some his footage with me so I could show off a very nice and simple filmlike workflow I've set up.
On the samples I have done very little grading, just some basic film look I'm happy with.


flat+saturation+curves+lut

flat

flat+saturation+curves+lut

flat

flat+saturation+curves+lut

flat

flat+saturation+curves+lut

flat

As you can see, no noise reduction, great 50d footage from Andy.

What you need:

my camera profile for Adobe programs:
for normal dng: https://www.dropbox.com/s/vkdm3uc4n5x7i26/MLfilm.dcp
for cinema dng: https://www.dropbox.com/s/8yhv4qsquaygs3s/MLfilm%20strong.dcp

installation instructions: http://www.magiclantern.fm/forum/index.php?topic=5586.msg66775#msg66775

Once open in Adobe Camera Raw you will leave everything as it is, go to the camera icon (camera calibration) and if you installed the camera profile correctly you will see the camera profile, select the profile and go back to the main adjustment screen, correct exposure and whiteblance if needed. That's it. (make sure you change the color space to a 16bit color space, you can set that at the bottom line in ACR).

If you are using resolve you will export the secuence as a uncompressed 16bit tiff.
If you are using After effects be sure that you are working at least in 16bit.

Apply the lut.

Download the LUTs:

Juanmelara converted these great print emulation LUTs to a Resolve and After Effects compatible format.

http://juanmelara.com.au/print-film-emulation-luts-for-download/

download these from the blogpost:
Fujifilm 3510
Fujifilm 3513
Kodak 2383
Kodak 2393

If you want to use Resolve he will explain how to, I will focus on After Effects.

For the Samples above I used Fujifilm 3510, the blue in the shadows is rather strong but I like it a lot.

So once you have your secuence in After effects you will apply the lut, choose the "Apply Color LUT effect" under the "Utility" section. Search for the LUT you want to use (use the ConstClip ones) and voila ther you go, this is your starting point. If you are not happy wiht exposure or whitebalance , interpret the footage in ACR again, (right click on footage, interpret footage, more options)
There you go, now add some curves and turn the darks down a little, maybe change the curve in some color channel, and add some saturation (+20,+30 works for me).

I hope you enjoy this, have fun.

Rember one thing, in both, Resolve and After Effects, the LUT will be you last node or layer, every adjustment should be done under or before the last layer, node.

Latest 50D discovery: It's a tough S.O.B.

So I was out shooting yesterday evening and had the camera on a fully extended tripod while I looked for a spare battery. Stupid me hadn't secured one of the tripod legs and a couple of seconds after turning by back the leg collapsed and the tripod toppled over with the 50D taking the full impact on the asphalt. I was horrified but apart from an unstuck LCDVF frame, a few grazes to the body and a scuffed mode dial it was fine. I'm actually glad the camera hit and not the lens. I doubt my 600D would have survived.

Apart from the accident I got some great test footage that has confirmed to me that the 50D is capable of some seriously good looking images and I don't to upgrade anytime soon 

Don't upgrade the camera, upgrade the tripod ^^. Share the footage

Try changing the FPS Override 'optimize for' setting. Hi Jello should let you go a lot higher (maybe1/4000 etc).

I get 1/150 at 24p with 'exact'.

Also, noticed something with FPS under artificial light when shooting last night. The 50D's video mode is NTSC 30p and usually you can trust the shutter speed indicator when it turns green but I had to drop to a slightly lower shutter speed to remove the slow flicker caused by AC in Europe. I don't think this is an issue on cameras that have native 25p PAL so it's worth double checking for that 'out of sync' flickering before hitting record.

Thanks a lot!