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You say you're not doing much video, so this shouldn't matter to you, but the write data rate on the 6D is only 40MBps, while it's near 100MBps for the 5DM3, mostly matters for raw video.

Try reinstalling Canon firmware by doing firmware update with newly formatted card (formatting in camera preferred) WITHOUT magic lantern on the card.

If that gets you back to normal, then install ML at your own discretion.

That happens to me sometimes too, maybe a conflict of some settings? You can try resetting camera and ML settings to defaults and restarting camera or try installing latest build to a clean card (no remnants of ML on card).

For obtaining the 'film look' the 180 degree shutter should be adhered too, so if you want to control depth of field then set shutter (180 rule), set aperture, and use auto-ISO (or set manually until correct exposure) with ND filter if needed.

If you want to control ISO (to keep as low as possible maybe) and still want film look, then set shutter, set iso, and then adjust aperture for correct exposure.

There are times when you don't want to fix shutter to 180 rule, like when you want a video or staccato look or doing slow motion in some cases, because then less frame blur is better.

Are you asking if you can resize native h.264 (.mov) resolution in-camera with ML?

Any ideas out there? Is there a way to have the recording shut off if it drops a frame. (I thought ML was defaulted to do this and I havnt messed with any of these settings) I know it does that if I try RAW 30fps. Am I doing anything wrong? Thx for any insight.

In mlv_rec menu set it to not allow frame skipping, then recording will stop if frame is dropped.

Yeah, color grading can be tough without a proper monitor. Scopes can get you most of the way there, but seeing the final result on a calibrated color grading monitor is always nice. I've viewed some of my footage on a variety of devices in the past and it looks different on every one.

Also, the final presentation medium of your footage can make a difference to your color correcting/grading process, such as if it's for web, tv, film, etc. Here's a discussion you might find helpful: https://forums.adobe.com/message/6056828

I've spent some time with Hackintosh, try calibrating your screen, I remember it making a significant difference on my setup

With most builds you can adjust h.264 bit-rate, mostly helps in low light situations, turning it up to over 1.5 can cause recording to unexpectedly stop (this value is somewhat camera dependent).

For sure with the 5DM3.123 (maybe other builds too?) initially you do not need to use EOScard (manually make memory card bootable), because with the latest builds for this camera it happens automatically in-camera when running the firmware update during the ML install.

With other cameras/builds you might still have to make your card bootable after ML install using a 3rd party app (EOScard/MacBoot) or even with this 5DM3.123 build when wanting to use a memory card you didn't install ML with, because it would not natively be a bootable memory card and therefore not allow ML to load.

Optionally, from what I understand, you can run the firmware update again with a new memory card, which will also in-turn make the new card bootable and able to run ML upon camera startup.

WOW!

Being able to emulate a Global Shutter on CMOS sensor is MAD INSANE

Just imagine shooting RAW with 'global shutter' on a non-CCD DSLR, I'm literally speechless (well, apart my aforementioned speech anyway

They've modified the install process to make the card bootable automatically now upon ML install

MacBoot seems to be equivalent as EOScard, but I've never tried it, see here: http://www.zenoshrdlu.com/macboot/macboot.html

None other than for workflow reasons, some apps can only read 16-bit CDNGs and can't read 14-bit DNGs.

The extra 2-bits (16-bit CDNG) are not image data, just placeholders, so no extra quality gain

Do i need to do the installation (firmware update) again after copying the ML files back to the card? ML wont boot atm...

I ve seen threads where people install ML to the secondary SD card, is that something worth considering? Any pointer on how to do that?

You need to make the card bootable. With new ML installs this happens automatically now, but since you reformatted the card you need to run EOScard on it, see here: http://www.magiclantern.fm/install.html

As for putting ML on the SD card, I do it that way because then I can just swap out non-ML CF cards when they're full and not worry about having ML on them. Especially helpful when/if you're in a jam and need to borrow/buy another CF card on the spot and can't install ML on it at that moment.

To do such, after ML install, just copy everything onto SD card, make it bootable and you're good to go (DO NOT NEED TO RUN FIRMWARE UPDATE AGAIN).

In post try using ACR, should be able to recover there.

Also, you don't have to turn Global Draw off, just the histogram and waveform, because global draw is also needed for framing/crop marks/etc. With Global Draw on/allow you can cycle through different LiveView overlays using the Info button, where you can bring up the Canon exposure meter, then go back to ML overlay if you want.

Be great if you can post here too: http://www.magiclantern.fm/forum/index.php?topic=12630.0

In mlv_rec menu turn Global Draw to Allow

By default histogram and waveform are presented with LiveView (you can opt to turn these off or turn off global draw altogether), they are exposure aids.

Histogram and waveform usage has been discussed on this forum in the past (so you could search), but I STRONGLY suggest you research what both of these things are in places more dedicated to such topics (these two exposure tools are applicable to photography as well as videography, so learning about them in either context is cross-applicable). NOT that this forum doesn't do a very good job explaining what they are, but I suggest you get at least a good fundamental understanding of what they are where they are more completely discussed, then ask here about how to use/apply them in certain context.

The general concept of these two exposure tools are not all that complex, but a thorough and complete understanding of them is best to make the most use of them

EDIT: When I rely upon using these two ML features, my footage has been underexposed also, so until I find out what's going on, I use the Canon exposure meter for metering and that has always been spot on.

Dazed and confused or just confused?

Although ML is considered experimental software, there really hasn't been any recent (years?) issues that of which you can't recover you camera, just search the boards, you won't find any major issues and rarely even any minor ones.

I have been using ML for over a year now and installed it on 4 cameras, 1 650D, 2 5DM2s, and 1 5DM3 and have had no issues whatsoever.

The 5DM3 with ML installed is absolutely MAGIC!

Just follow install instructions carefully (it's super easy these days :-), use the latest nightly build, search/read the forum posts and then read them again before asking questions, and provide as much detailed info when you do need assistance

Yeah, some new KB cards I got are performing closer to their stated specs., see here: http://www.magiclantern.fm/forum/index.php?topic=12630.msg121776;topicseen#msg121776

Some conversion apps don't need files to be joined, but if you're using and older workflow, then you still might need to do it that way.

Someone mentioned how hot is was, got me thinking, did you have any operational issues with the camera while shooting? Like did it ever shutdown from being too hot?

My next project (Green Screen Music Video) test the VFX & heavy grading with XQ,
see how it holds up when I start pulling keys .

Sounds like fun

I would think you'll have a good experience with the new codec, such high data rates. If your permitted to share the video and have the time to post it, I'd love to see at least a short clip of the result.

For which video recording type? .mov, .raw, .mlv?

Updated OP.  Higher frame rate modes are defiantly slower.

You know, I wouldn't have expected that. Thinking back though, it was suggested for the 650D that you set it to 1080p@24fps in canon menu (maybe other cameras too), but for the 5D2 and 5D3 I was using 1080p@30fps thinking the higher frame would/might put the camera into a faster 'mode'.

Well, I'm glad you started this thread, cause everyone is always asking 'which card should I get for my camera...'