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All in all the Image Quality is really awesome and the post flexibility is incredible. But the post workflow is a nightmare (maybe only cause I used the 0.9 Version of Raw2DNG, where you have to drop every RAW file in there at once)...

My workflow is to put all the RAW in the same folder, write a .bat file to batch convert all of them to DNG

the .bat file is like
raw2dng M04-1206.RAW 1206
raw2dng M04-1207.RAW 1207
raw2dng M04-1208.RAW 1208

by doing so, all the RAW will be converted and adding a prefix to the DNG, you can tell from the prefix where is the video sequence it is coming from

no, UHS support is on hardware level, 60D is not having a UHS controller and thus it is impossible to do so

Here is the information from wikipedia
UHS-I cards, specified in SD Version 3.01,[41] support a clock frequency of 100 MHz (a quadrupling of the original "Default Speed"), which in four-bit transfer mode could transfer 50 MB/s. UHS-I cards declared as UHS104 also support a clock frequency of 208 MHz, which could transfer 104 MB/s. UHS-I is the fastest class for which products are currently available.[45]

here is my video at highest video RAW resolution
http://youtu.be/FJHJKUmPtzQ

still love the sharpness it is generating, will wait for another fine day and try using lower resolution for longer clip

saving the RAW in crop mode will make the noise more visible.

when you are working in low light, it is better to record in full resolution, so you don't need a lots of upscaling and making the noise more visible.

or you can perform NR in picture processing workflow.

my workflow is to import all the DNG to silkypix for processing, WB correction, NR processing. output them to jpeg and then put them into a video.

if the DNG created by raw2dng is not read successfully by a program, try using adobe dng converter to the dng files, you can select different version of dng and allowing you to do some kind of compression.

however, I think the version 1.1 is the best to allow other program to open.

so, is it merged to the latest nightly build?

I think someone did posted a request there in CHDK for more video support, seems no one is interested in video.

I will try asking there again, thanks

Is it very similar to port ML to Ixus/Elph/Powershot as they run DIGIC also?

I think many of the latest camera are using this SONY sensor, which offer readout mode at 4K
http://www.sony.net/Products/SC-HP/cx_news/vol70/pdf/imx117cqt.pdf

seems the SX270, SX280 are using this sensor.

sounds like a hardware function provided by olympus, but wonder if this can be implemented/mimic it with multiple shot and real time stacking preview.

to describe the function, it is simply showing what you get in a bulb exposure, and you can decide when to stop the bulb exposure judging by the preview at the screen.

if in ML, can we set the camera to give preview of the stacked sequence. once you first take a shot and hold the shutter button, it continue to give you a previous, and when the next frame is captured, the preview shows the stacking with the previous frames in the sequence.

in dark environment, you will see the picture getting brighter and brighter if you continue the exposure.

and yes, if hypersync can be done by mounting only the YN flash (not support HSS), it would be a great feature for everyone using flash.

higher flash sync is always a longed feature for photographer. HSS is a nice function, but there is penalty on the flash power, reducing the reach, and HSS flash is comparably more expensive.

yes, it is clear that HSS is an hardware function, where light are emitted at high frequency. Continuous lighting will expose the whole frame evenly.

Hypersync is not HSS. Indeed, hypersync is to mimic the HSS function, but since it is a single blast of light in a very short time, it can only lit the frame while the shutter curtain is not blocking. Any shutter higher than X-sync may not offer any moment when both curtain are not blocking the frame (first curtain fully open, second curtain not yet close).

Hypersync with a single point trigger flash can work easily. An old manual flash can do it.

The art of making true hypersync function is to allow ETTL metering to function properly. So that you can sync at higher shutter, ETTL auto flash meter works, and you don't need to buy the expensive hi power flash that support HSS. The only consideration is the dark shadow, you need some skill to avoid it affecting your picture.

now I am using a YongNuo FC-681 cable to make it happen. this cable is like a Y cable on the camera hotshoe, giving two hotshoes for attaching flash.

I attached a third party ETTL flash with no HSS function (YongNuo YN-565EX) and a Canon 270EX (has HSS) to it. To the camera, it sees only one single 270EX.

In this setup, YN-565EX responds to everything correctly, Preflash, meter and fire. So do the 270EX, the difference is the 270EX is in HSS mode, while YN-565EX is not.

I tried this setup shooting around noon time on a beach. Making sure my kids are not in the dark shadow area (you can do it easily in vertical orientation), the photos is good and I can keep the aperture opening larger for shallow DOF.

But this setup is very heavy and cumbersome.

From the behavior of the two flashes, I guess HSS is only a switch on the camera side (and possibly in the flash unit also). there is no difference in the signal sending from camera to the flash unit, no matter it is HSS enabled or not (my YN-565EX preflash and triggered flawlessly in HSS mode)

Canon is actually blocking any shutter speed higher than X-sync if flash hi-speed sync is not turned on (or not supported)

some third party remote trigger is cheating the camera, that the attached flash do support hi-speed sync, so the camera allows choosing shutter higher than X-sync.

In such setup, the flash unit works normally as a ETTL flash without hi-speed sync, pre-flash, metering and fire just normally (as a flash with no hi-speed sync). The camera thinks the flash is hi-speed sync enabled, pre-flash, metering and trigger the flash as if it is a hi-speed sync flash.

the benefit of this is we got ETTL flash metering, better flash reach as the shutter is higher, use less flash battery power as hi-speed sync is eating a lots of power.

the drawback is we might see a dark shadow at the bottom of the frame, it is the second shutter curtain blocking the flash light.

For 60D, the X-sync is 1/250. Hypersync at 1/320 will give a very thin shadow at the bottom, almost invisible. Hypersync at 1/400 will shows a wider shadow, but if used carefully, avoiding foreground object be in that area, it is totally usable.

I am not sure how this can be done with ML. can it force the Flash settings of shutter sync to hi-speed sync? even if the flash is not supporting hi-speed sync.

Or overriding the shutter after flash metering is done? so that camera set the shutter at 1/250, then preflash, then meter, and before the camera actually start taking the picture, ML overrides the shutter to 1/320. The flash is triggered and shutter works as 1/320.

Another function I am dreaming is the second curtain Hypersync. When using hypersync, there will be a dark shadow at the bottom of the frame, which could be annoying when shooting daylight scene with people. If hypersync can sync with second curtain, the dark shadow will be at top of the frame, which usually is distant background or sky in the scene. So the dark shadow is essentially no visible.

I am having a 60D with ML.

And I also have a 1D mark III, love the safety shift on ISO.

to make this ISO safety shift work, I will need to setup these
min aperture
max aperture
min shutter
max shutter

for my daytime fill flash, I will use Tv mode, fixing the shutter at X-sync 1/300. no min/max aperture is setup, so it will be wide open if there is no over-exposure.

I set the ISO at 50.

In very bright light, the ISO will be kept at 50, aperture will be stopped down to avoid over-exposure.
When shooting in shade or with less light, aperture will keep wide open, and the ISO will be shifted to a higher value to avoid under-exposure.

This really help a lots since I don't need to care about the ISO and make change in every scene.

One thing to note with 60D:
When flash is switched on, if ISO is set to Auto, it will be kept at 400, so Auto ISO with flash is useless.