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No offence to the thread starter but I think a translation would be helpfull:

===nanomed wrote ===
Behalte sie [drauf], Du koenntest sie irgendwann einmal brauchen. Sie schaden nicht und sie sind relativ klein.
===EOTranslation===

Ciao, Walter

Don't know if it's obsolete or not: Tried to use focus bracketing with pre-alpha. Doesn't work for me, giving me focus error message.
Side effect: Wasn't able to use focus in liveview thereafter.
- Started camera with ML disabled (Set button pressed): Doesn't work either
- Started camera with card without pre-alpha ML installed: Nope, won't run
- Deleted all camera settings + Fn: Works fine.

Well, outdoor macro season is near and sometimes a camera with vari-angle screen will come handy. ;-)
On the other side: 7D will do the job too and a little yoga acrobatic is supposed to be healthy ...
Thank you all for all your efforts!

Ciao, Walter

Wipe the card using a cardreader, format it there (FAT32) and try to write to it. Success?

Ciao, Walter

Good one!
This is a flash with internal 300V (or more):

(Source: Wikimedia)
and the thing on the top of the camera is a flash device, too.

"Flash memory" works at a much lower voltage level (18 V or less).
http://de.wikipedia.org/wiki/Flash-Speicher#Bezeichnung_und_Name

And, please: Don't mess up the pins on your own. Stay away, just don't. Not because you are running for Darwin Award but the pins are not very forgiving if treated the wrong way.

Ciao, Walter

http://www.magiclantern.fm/forum/index.php?topic=4564.msg26384#msg26384

Is this the exact SD-Reader for the EOS550D, the SD-Socket-PP-19607.pdf?

I'm sure it is not! But if you show the data sheet to a solderer he will be able to determine where the pins are.

but i can't see what exact must be closed.

Just show the data-sheets to the solderer and tell him to connect WP to CD.

I'm asking because i first want to try from outside to bend the signal-wire to some position (open/closed)

Just don't. This is where hazard lies within.

yes i need somebody with equipment and high-voltage experience.

High-voltage? 5 Volts is not high voltage.

Ask for help in a german speaking forum related to electronics like http://www.mikrocontroller.net

Ciao, Walter

Not tested: You may have success shortening WP and CD pins.
http://www.sparkfun.com/datasheets/Prototyping/SD-Socket-PP-19607.pdf
If you are not familiar soldering such items: Ask someone who does. It's not recommended to try this without proper equipment.
You have to disassemble the cam.

Ciao, Walter

PS: Wondering why it may cause hazard to change code to use CD pin instead of WP pin as input. But I'm not a programer.

I think you have to reevaluate this.
I did a test in M with/without HTP and run the datt through dcraw, rawhistogramm.



Ciao, Walter

Almost as if the battery overheated or something even though that's impossible with no sensors. Strange.

Well, there are some components inside a battery pack. Overheating a LiON cell is not such a good idea therefore it makes perfectly sense to avoid this condition by adding a circuit breaker.
Disclaimer: I didn't disassemble it and didn't check the PCB inside. But I have a link:
http://www.camerahacker.com/Canon_Accessory/BP511_Disassembly.shtml

Ciao, Walter

See first post in this thread.
This alpha version has to be activated each time you turn on the camera. This is installation step 4 as described.
Therefore: Yes, you have to copy it on each card if you intend to use this alpha version with both.

Ciao, Walter

The L does, too.



Ciao
Walter

Êither your cardreader doesn't like your SanDisk card or (more likely) you have purchased a faked card -> product piracy or you have an USB 2.0 device.  USB 2.0 will be the bottleneck limiting transfer speed to about 40 MByte/s.
I have a Hama USB 3.0 cardreader not able to run at full speed with my SanDisk Extreme Pro. Kingston USB 3.0 is up to the task and > 85 MByte/s is not bad at all.
You haven't mentioned camera type, card type and cardreader type used. Please more details next time ...

Ciao, Walter

Status: Pre-alpha
http://www.magiclantern.fm/forum/index.php?topic=3697.msg25879;topicseen#msg25879

Ciao, Walter

Thanks for the info but this is not the info we're looking for. Is a current limit (in Ampere/Milliampere/A/mA) given for the 7.2 volts output?

Ciao, Walter

Flares are common when shooting the sun (liberately or not) and other very bright light sources working as spot. See
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lens_flare
As explained in the article the effect is sometimes added to CGI and other flare-free scenes to create a documentary look.

Even if the sun is outside the frame you may get some contrast reducing effects. If sunlight hits the front lens some will find a way to the sensor. A lens hood may not be able to block it out all the time. Just google around for
- veiling glare
- veiling flare
- ghosting
- lens flare
if you want to learn more about the subject.

In still photography it may be a solution takeing two shots when dealing with flare. One with a gobo (just some opaque stuff put between light source and front lens. Gobo = go between), one without and combine them in post.

www.lenstip.com and www.the-digital-photo.com have a flare/ghosting section in their lens reviews.

[Rant]It is a pity there is no standard test procedure covering flare/ghosting performance of a lens.[/Rant]

Ciao, Walter

Can't you just plug in a Y-adapter and connect both your devices to 7 Volt?  Don't know if you plate is able to run both devices at once (maximum output power exceeded or not?).

Ciao, Walter

I have to agree, this is lens flare caused by internal reflection. The reflections are centrically symmetric. Draw a line between flare "source" and flare. The line will go through the center of the frame. The distance from center to flare and flare source is the same.

Some protection/UV filters are prone to flare and nocturnal photography (extreme contrast and all black background) is really demanding in this respect. If you have such a beast for protection: You better go without at dark.
If it is the lens itself: Sorry, this one won't do the job. Old lenses (for example) are not designed for digital age sensors. CMOS and CCD chips are more reflective than analog film emulsions ... by far. Lenses designed for digital photography therefore have to use better coatings. Tokina will have to learn this lesson, too ... some day, I hope.

There is an UV filter review I would recommend for those looking for non-beastly ones:
http://www.lenstip.com/120.1-article-UV_filters_test_-_supplement_Introduction.html
http://www.lenstip.com/113.1-article-UV_filters_test.html

Ciao, Walter

PS: If you're shooting stills with identical settings used for your video (ISO, aperture, exposure) under the same conditions you will have the same flares showing up.

Power switch set to "OFF", removed card, closed card slot cover, power switch set to "ON":
Displayed "Keine Speicherkarte" = "no card in camera" -> No problem to report from here.

Ciao, Walter

Is "Trap Focus" not working in this pre-alpha?

Ciao, Walter

ML menu bar: Shoot -> Audio Remoteshot
http://wiki.magiclantern.fm/userguide#shoot

Ciao, Walter

This sound very strange, myself and all the people I know that tried many times to downgrade the 7d from 2.x to 1.x were unable to do so, there was a test that we did whitin a photography forum and all owners got the same result.

He is not the only one. Try using older EOSUtility versions like 2.10.x.
http://www.canonrumors.com/forum/index.php?topic=8646.msg157053#msg157053

Ciao, Walter

Is this a known issue?

Yes, because it is intended to work this way ...
Alpha ...

Ciao, Walter

The only limit I'm aware of: Canon doesn't support downgrading firmware v2.x back to v1.x.

Ciao, Walter

Seems to be stored quite simple:

Exiftool -CameraTemperature source.jpg
Camera Temperature              : 19 C

Exiftool -CameraTemperature -b source.jpg
19

Verified by changing EXIF
Exiftool -CameraTemperature=10 source.jpg

Exiftool -CameraTemperature source.jpg
Camera Temperature              : 10 C

Exiftool -CameraTemperature -b source.jpg
10


Exiftool -CameraTemperature=-10 source.jpg

Exiftool -CameraTemperature source.jpg
Camera Temperature              : -10 C

Exiftool -CameraTemperature -b source.jpg
-10

Ciao, Walter

Answers, lot of them ...