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You're welcome! Do ask again if you encounter any further difficulties 

Woah.. this is epic!

Would have been great if the clouds were white. Did you process the HDRs in Photomatix?

I'm not sure how accurate a wireless remote is. I couldn't test it well since my cameras are different (5D2 and 60D), but when I tried it there was an offset between the start of the recordings, and this changed every time I tried it. This is quite a small amount of time, but you still won't get a perfect sync.

Maybe someone who has 2 same bodies and a wireless remote can try this out and tell us how it goes 

Nice! Really like Bart's first design.

Would it be possible to have some sort of scroll indicator on the side to indicate that there are more menu items further down?

Hey!

Here you go:
http://wiki.magiclantern.fm/userguide

The user guide is also available in PDF format within the ZIP release of ML. There is also an in-camera help (with the same text as the user guide) available through the ML menu or by pressing the Info button while any menu item is highlighted. The latter takes you directly to that feature's help section.

Pressing Set on the cropmarks menu item allows you to quickly turn the feature on or off, which is why it's switching between Cinescope (which is the cropmark you have selected) and off. You need to enter the sub-menu by pressing the Q button while the cropmarks menu item is highlighted. A sub-menu opens which shows more options related to cropmarks, including selecting the cropmark you need.

Good captures! I really like the first 2 images 

Try to shoot portrait when sky is on the background and main object is in the shadow. Histogram would be good, but object would be underexposured. So if you focuse exposure meter on the object you would have a good expo. That is like a make right exposure by grey card target

That's where the RGB histogram comes in handy. You can easily watch the red channel in the histogram (since skin tones fall in this channel) and make sure that it's exposed properly.

I don't think there's partial or spot metering in video mode, and there's a valid reason behind it. If such a metering mode was selected while the camera is on automatic exposure, the exposure would change dramatically every time you move the camera since it is metering a specific area rather than the whole scene.

I suggest you use manual exposure and use the histogram and zebras. Setting the histogram to luma might be easier to start with since you don't have to worry about different colour channels. You just need to make sure that you have a bell shaped curve, i.e. based in the middle, with as little clipping as possible. Clipping (i.e. overexposed & underexposed areas) occur when the histogram goes outside the left & right boundaries.

Edit: I just read that you're using Cinestyle too. As long as you make sure that the highest tip in your histogram is near the middle, you'll be fine. Also, a quick work-around if you want to meter for a specific object would be to go to photo mode with partial or spot metering, check the reading, switch back to movie mode and dial in those settings while in manual exposure. Can't get easier than that 

I like both designs (both current and the one proposed above), however the one being proposed makes it look more like something which is part of the camera, which encourages new users since they see a familiar interface.

I also like the idea of wizards with grouped settings that Bart proposed. Since some settings are used by multiple features, it's impossible to have everything grouped together in the current interface, so it makes sense.

There is a competing ML? Do tell....

Competing product as in intervalometer remotes, bramp, etc. (hardware which is redundant since ML already has these features) 

I had read somewhere about that too back when I first encountered ML, but to my knowledge it was just an unfounded rumour and only applied to the 7D. I haven't heard of any sort of similar issues with the cameras supported by ML, and frankly I don't think it's true for any camera.

I have been running ML on the 60D and the 5Dmk2 for quite a while now, and never experienced any "lock outs". The only reassurance I can give you is that so far, no one has managed to brick a camera because of ML, which says a lot. 

Just checked it out and it's definitely not working. The vimeo tag is showing along with the url instead of the video thumbnail (such as the one of youtube videos).

Not sure if this is board related, or a problem in the app itself.

Here's an example:

Thanks for sharing screamer! It's really useful since I do loads of HDRs and use LR to manage photos.

Thanks for sharing!

The promo would definitely be a good idea. Will keep that in mind.

Yep, you just need to convert each mono channel to stereo in post 

That should work. Make sure to set your audio source as external stereo from ML's audio menu.

First part (using fake lens details to enable focus confirmation) isn't possible, as mentioned above.

As for second part, if I understood correctly, you'd like to have the ability to enter a custom lens name for any manual lens you use, which is then saved in the lens EXIF field, right?

Not only that... the lenses can appreciate. That $500 lens could be $800 next year. New entry level EF-S lenses might actually lose value.

You're totally right on that one. L lenses never (or nearly never) lose their original value.

By the way, why do you look for USM lenses? In what way are you using auto-focus for video?

MediaInfo only shows you timecode and other video properties. It cannot modify the TC track like QTchange can.

I've done some tests with FFmpeg and it can add a TC to the video file itself, but only by converting the video. What I really like in QTchange is that it saves the TC track in the MOV file without any conversions, so I'm still looking for a better solution.

Really like the look of the final image. Well done!

Welcome 

I sync them in post using Pluraleyes. I use a Rode VideoMicPro on-camera which records into the camera, and record audio from the G3 separately on the H4N. This way, while having good quality, I also have backup audio in the video files.

Just because it's an EF-S lens doesn't mean it's a crappy lens. While it's true that most EF lenses are better in build and quality, there are some EF-S lenses such as the 10-22 which are only EF-S lenses because they are for crop bodies (otherwise would have easily classified for a red ring).

Seeing that you already have the 18-55 IS II, the 18-135 would be a little redundant since most of the range is already covered. Have you considered the 55-250? This telephoto lens supplements the 18-55 and gives you more range. The 50mm 1.8 is also quite good for its price (its much cheaper than the 1.4, although the latter's build quality is better and gives you a third stop of more light).