Messages

[rec.led.off]

Woah, thank you to all that made this happen!
Anyway, With Nightly.2017Jan13.5D3123 build, rec.led.off is still disabled? How can i manually enable this?

[rec.led.off]

With Nightly.2016Oct09.5D3123 build, rec.led.off is still disabled?
Anyone can confirm?

[rec.led.off]

Last time I tried it, I could barely notice any difference.

If there is still interest in this feature, I can look into it again.

Yup it worked flawlessly for me, both normal h.264 and raw/mlv won't have the red LED blinkin'.  So yea, rec.led.off is worth a look i guess.

[old hackish implementation, doesn't seem to work anyway]

whoops just saw #48 in https://builds.magiclantern.fm/jenkins/job/5D3.123/45/

It says old hackish implementation, doesn't seem to work anyway. Well, it worked fine for me on the previous 2015Dec20.5D3123 build anyway.. what gives?

[rec.led.off = 1]

With the Nightly.2016Aug24.5D3123 build, rec.led.off = 1 doesn't work any more?
Adding this line to magic.cfg doesn't work, red LED still blinks when recording.
Anything I'm missing?

If so, is there any sense in buying Lexar 1066x over Lexar 1000x for my 7D?
I understand 1066x has slightly better write and read speeds, but almost all benchmarks are made using 5D3, which also has higher write limits.

My point is: will 7D benefit from choosing 1066x at all?

I'm aware 1000x is no longer produced, though sometimes still available at the market.
I can get 32GB 1000x in the price of 16GB 1066x.

Thanks.

See http://www.magiclantern.fm/forum/index.php?topic=12630.msg159239#msg159239 for benckmark speeds of my 7D on 1066x SanDisk Extreme PRO 64GB

5D3 1.2.3 on SanDisk Extreme PRO 64GB (1067X, 160MB/S)

7D on SanDisk Extreme PRO 64GB (1067X, 160MB/S)

Honestly to my naked eye, i don't see any difference in the video/photo.

Anyway did some 'test' (Nightly.2015Aug19.7D203).
In movie mode standby/idle (with Focus Peak, Cropmarks and Histogram), ISO800, 23.976FPS, ambient room temperature @ 29C(84F), SandDisk Extreme(60MB/s) card, and some 3rd party Phottix batt:
Startup temp 30C(86F)
2mins 33C(91F)
3mins 35C(95F)
4mins 37C(98F)
6mins 44C(111F)
After around 10mins~ stabilized at 47C(116F), and the infrequent drop to 44C.
This was the same for both before and after the mod and I had the rubber camera armour on all these while.



Then again the temp readings is from the motherboard and i don't have any external temp reader. But i felt the scroll wheel area to be a tad 'hotter' (due to better dissipation definately). If only i can measure the sensor's temp..


Maybe i should slap on another copper behind the sensor shield. Just for fun ? What you guys think?

So after about a month's trial, I decided to open it up to see how the copper is doing. Low and behold, only the bottom copper slid down while camera was in use and that very paper (see photo) caught it.


The shield:


Cleaned it up with good old isoprophyl alcohol and replaced the paste with 0.5mm thick thermal pads cut to size @ 1.3mm x 1.3mm:


I've upgraded the copper shims to 20X20x1.2mm. Now the copper shims are snugly fit when the shield is closed. Of course i've polished it to a mirror finish on both sides :


Also, I noticed there's another heat shield behind the sensor unit and decided to put on another copper there. (Note the step on the shield):



So everything looks like this, with bigger folded paper at the bottom and the sensor copper neatly tucked behind the ribbon.:


The thermal pads are now much more 'sticky' and less copper movement when you nudge it around.
As of now I don't dare to pry open the sensor shield yet, afraid might screw up the plane of focus.

Just sharing my little 'hardware mod' on my 7D. Not sure if this is the right channel to post.

Got inspired from http://forum.xda-developers.com/nexus-4/general/hardmod-nexus-4-investigating-thermal-t2144652 and modding my LG G3 phone proved to be 'cooler' by 3°-4°c.
So why not on my 7D? Warranty is over anyway

Follow the steps from: https://www.ifixit.com/Guide/Canon+EOS+7D+Bent+CF+Pin+Fix-Card+Reader+Replacement/24777
You can skip Steps 1 and 2 as you dont need to remove the access ports/rubber.

There's a lot of air gap in between the Digic processors and logic board shield:


Making sure the shims covers the Digic processors nicely:


Used Arctic Silver 3 thermal paste in between the shims and chips (and in hope that the viscosity of the paste holds it up *fingers crossed*):


Also some thermal paste in between the shims and logic board shield. I polished the copper shims to a mirror finish to maximize surface area, and note the paper folded on the bottom in case the shims slides down it'll 'catch' it:


Haven't done any temperature testing but I'm sure this will help just a wee bit in dissipating heat.
The copper shims is 15mmx15mmx0.5mm and can be easily purchase from eBay. A thicker shim will close the gap between processor and shield even closer but afraid the heavier weight might slide down and muck it up.
Maybe a longer rectangular shim that covers both the Digic processors and supported by the folded paper would be better? Can't seem to find off-the-shelf rectangular copper shims thou.

Feel free to have a say what you guys think.. cheers.