Show Posts

This section allows you to view all posts made by this member. Note that you can only see posts made in areas you currently have access to.


Messages - Myxir

Pages: [1]
1
Camera-specific discussion / Re: Canon 1100D / T3
« on: February 24, 2017, 04:26:14 PM »
Hi, I updated ML today to tha latest version (2017Feb12.1100D105). But when I start it, it still says May 2015May03?
BTW if I turn the camera of it crashes. The red light is on and the camera wont do anything until i remove the battery.


Okay, autoexec and/or(?) ml-setup.fir were missing.

2
Camera-specific discussion / Re: Canon 1100D / T3
« on: November 22, 2015, 04:08:53 PM »
Are there really no updates between May 3rd and October 1st? 

3
Hi.

The is a extremely strange issue. My barracuda gui installation just disappered. When I try to download barracudagui 0.3.5.0 setup.exe, it's automaticly deleted?! I deactivated my anti virus, but I still can't use it. wtf? :(

Edit: Blame norton. It says the exe is not safe and deleted it. (but said nothing about that!)

4
Camera-specific discussion / Autofocus permanently broken
« on: July 19, 2015, 12:11:37 AM »
Hey.
Yup, ML worked again after that.
all-clear: The C.FN #7 was set to set AE/AF. I did not do that. WTF...

But now my AF is broken. I cannot use Af in PASM modes. In all other modes it works.
It seems like the "Is in focus"-bit is set to "yes" all the time. With my 40mm STM I can use the MF even when the AF is activated and did not hit. I've tried different lenses, removing the SD card and the battery. I've installed 1.05 stock from canon.com com but it did not help.

I repeat: AF _does not_ work for me, even _without_ Magic Lantern on the SD card! o.O :(

5
Camera-specific discussion / Re: Canon 1100D / T3
« on: July 18, 2015, 03:44:40 PM »
WTF why that? :/

I wanted to update my version to the latest working one (May 03). I downloaded and copied the folder to the existing folder on my sd card. Now ML does not start anymore. I remember there were some files I need to copy extra but I don't know what it is and I fear I've overwritten them. Somethings I the fonts folder I guess...
Can someone  help me?

6
Camera-specific discussion / Re: Canon 1100D / T3
« on: July 18, 2015, 12:25:02 AM »
What does "Build has failed" mean? Hard brick? Did someones camera explode?

7
Camera-specific discussion / Re: Canon 1100D / T3
« on: April 27, 2015, 08:52:23 PM »
Why is there a new version for 1100D.105 where the only entry in the changelog is for 700D.113?

8
From 400 to 3200 it's ~0.9EV. That should be noticeably.

I was thinking about using DualISO for some concerts or gigs. I know that I'm usually using very high ISOs, between 1600 and 6400. So I thought that I could use the second ISO to get the hang of high contrasts between spotlights and back/foregrounds.

Zanken already did this, but the links are broken and the pictures are gone. He had good experiences.
Quote from: Zanken
I'm a gig/event photographer experimenting with dual ISO.  It's been great in environments where there is such a strong contrast for things like stage lights and flash work.  A couple of examples.
...

Quote from: Zanken
The big win for event flash photography is getting more DR in the backgrounds.  Especially events like festivals where you notice that background lights colour channels cap out really quickly and everything just looks really smudged.  Dual ISO has helped me immensly shooting manual flash in a pinch in this environment too - my TTL flash was stolen a while back and I haven't been able to afford a replacement.

Most of the examples here seem to be scenes which makes sense.  We've all seen overexposed skies and can appreciate at a glance how big an improvement we are getting with Dual ISO.  I question why most people haven't really discovered it for portrait/event/performance/street style stuff where the loss of detail across the frame matters less and your RAW files has much more flexibility in what you get out of a shot that is just snapped 'in the moment.'

If there is one downside for me though, it's shooting an event (200-400 shots) and leaving them to brew overnight, ultimately costing me 60mb each shot.  Here I was thinking that buying a 6D would be a good move to preserve HDD space - hah!

9
http://www.magiclantern.fm/forum/index.php?topic=10111.0
In the first post of that thread, also check the section entitled "Any recommended reading?".  The DxOMark site will list the dynamic range for all tested cameras.
I'll have a look.

http://www.magiclantern.fm/forum/index.php?topic=10111.0
ISO 1600 > ISO 3200 may net you 0.4 EV on some camera when you are using standard image capturing.  With dual ISO you shouldn't expect to see that result.  Each ISO is only half resolution, so you throw away one full stop of (full) midtone resolution, to "gain" 0.4 EV of half resolution shadow detail.
Estimated DR gained:
100/800: 2.2 EV
100/1600: 2.6 EV
100/3200: 2.7 EV
(100/6400: 2,7, too?)

http://www.magiclantern.fm/forum/index.php?topic=10111.0
When you use recommended settings (100/800....100/1600), since the top couple of stops are generally white anyway, the resolution loss may not even be noticed.  But when you start using extreme settings (100/3200), you're throwing away another full stop of midtone redolution, and this resolution loss is smack bang in the midtones.  You probably want all available resolution for the midtones.

Where you use a low base ISO of say 100, the situation is probably even more dire.  Here, you probably have your exposure (shutter/aperture) set for the base ISO.  Since ISO doesn't effect shot noise, not only are those last few points of EV only half resolution, but they are also heavy with shot noise.
But what if I have an extreme (low light) situation where I may want to use not so usual setting? Such  as 800/3200? Does it makes sense? And why do I get only ~0.5EV with that settings?

Edit: I see ISO 6400 is just 3200 with +1 EV digital ISO. So this would be an explanation (for me)...

10
Because when you increase ISO from 3200 to 6400 you "recover" 1EV of shadows but lose it on overall dynamic range (so you get nothing)? Even from 1600 to 3200 there's only 0.1 EV DR more...

Are there differences between different camera models? Because full frame cameras for  example are a lot better at high ISOs...

11
Okay, perfect.

A few other questions:
Why can't I use ISO 6400 for Dual ISO? Even if I select 6400 from Canon menu and Dual ISO menu it says "3200/3200 -> Both isos are the same".
And what is if I select Highlight tone priority? ML says Canon analog ISO is 100, equivalent ISo is 200, but DuaISO says 100/x, not 200/x. What does that mean?

12
Quote from: a1ex
]The output files contain 16-bit raw data in DNG format, that looks identical to a picture shot
in the same conditions at ISO 100. However, this DNG has a lot less noise in the shadows, and
therefore you can push the exposure a lot higher without getting massive noise (+6EV should
be quite clean).
Oh lol. Maybe I should have read that before. Now it's clear! :)
Although I think, +6EV is a little bit too much for my 1100D, even with DualISO...

By the way: If I change the DualISO settings from 100/800 to 800/100 it should save the highlights instead of shadows, right?

13
Even in a scene with backlight (Directed towards the sun or in a dark room and bright window) seems not to be soo contrasty.
But yes, when i do an underexposure at -2 or -3 EV theres an extreme improvement in quality. But in which "real world" situations do I have that?
DualISO is working as expected. I just wanted to know that. Thanks...

@Danne/Audionut: I used exactly the same post processing settings for both pictures (Dual iso and single iso). I was expecting results like that: http://www.magiclantern.fm/forum/index.php?topic=7402.0
These scenes doesn't contain too much contrast, too. But now I guess these differences come from different post processing. Otherwise i can't explain...

14
-> Dual ISO Test

No great picture, I just wanted to have much contrast...

15
~40 mb? Dropbox?

16
Hi!

At first: Thanks for doing all this work for Canon (Magic Lantern) community!

I'm  using a 1100D with ML. I tried DualISO over the last few days to see how it works. But I'm absolutely unable to reproduce results such as shown in the start post. I took two  shots, one with DualISO (100/1600 or so) an one just with 100. Then  I copied to my PC and converted Dual CR2s with cr2hdr + barracudaGUI to DNG. But in RawTherapee there's almost no visible difference between DualISO.dng and NoDualISO.cr2!?
Even after Tone mapping to the extreme, all I get is a little bit less noise in the shadows. I looks like 0,3 EV (or so) more dynamic range, not like 2,5... :/
Before convertinmg to dng, the dualiso.cr2 looks better, with good exposed shadows.

Did I make something wrong or forget something? Please help...

17
Oh yes! Works fine. Thank you! :)

18
User Introduction / Greeting from Saxony/Germany
« on: March 11, 2014, 07:47:41 PM »
Hey Guys!

My Name is Sandro, and i'm a new member of the magic lantern forum. My camera is a super professional EOS 1100D kit. I'm 17 years old and live near to Dresden in East Germany. Informatics and photography are some of my inteests, so I guess Magic lantern is a good thing for this :)

That's me.

Greetings.

20
Camera-specific discussion / Re: Canon 1100D / T3
« on: March 06, 2014, 08:03:54 PM »
Hey guys!

I've just installed Magic Lantern on my EOS 1100D. Works fine. It's very impressive, what functions this piece of software brings to the camera.

Everythink seems to work (But why are Screenshots taken as .ppm??)


lol? :D


So, uhm, could anyone give me a crash course in ML? There are some very interesting features, like ETTR and Dual ISO, but i seems that this is a little bit... complicate. Are there some tutorials or so I can use?

Thanks. Great work.

PS: Are there any other games for this? :P  :o

21
Share Your Photos / Re: Little planet's with bulb timer
« on: March 05, 2014, 05:39:38 PM »
Wow. Great.

Pages: [1]