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Awesome stuff!

A few weeks have passed by since last post and I still have problems with the weird bugs when choosing Custom white balance and shooting in bulb mode using infrared filters. It seems like the pictures does not come out the same as if I shoot with higher iso and faster shutter times.

Any hints would be greatly appreciated...

Awesome! Should buy myself some new cameras instead of lenses. Looks promising.

Long time no C.

I was out enjoying the sun today and came back with some pretty weird exposures using custom white balance and a Hoya r72 filter. It looks almost as if there's some sort of sync problem. Not sure how to reproduce or what to make of it, but perhaps something to dig deeper into.

5D Mark II, 24-70 f/2.8 I, Hoya r72. Images straight from camera via Pixelmator....

Looks interesting. I got a few malfocusing lenses that might benefit from this. One had as strong malfocus as around -15/+15 on the Canon fine-tune, and when it got returned from the camera-shop service it pretty much acted the same.

Interesting idea, but there's already a similar feature and that's focus peaking.

Although it looks different on the live view, it works pretty much in the same way. If the aperture of the lens is closed down, the focus peaking also shows it.

Übercool!

Very nice

I run into the same problem when shooting in IR with a 2000k adjustment. Everyone tells me that the Canon software that comes with the camera should process the RAW very well without the color shifts, but I can't get the software to work on a Mac.

I've resorted to just shooting in JPG while using the temperature adjustments. The colors are spot on from the lcd display to importing on the computer without color changes.

Did you notice any difference if you went above 100.000 ?

Tried tweaking some with the treshold value. With the Sigma stabilizer I can get as low as 5. Below that is not possible. Well not now anyway. Too much coffee, I guess. Without the stabilizer I'm up at around 10. (By the way, the tests where done with a 550D, a wideangle lens and live view)

Nice one! Goosebumps

Although it was perhaps "never intended" but using bulb mode with handheld does not work.

The mirror will quickly move up, and the picture will be taken.

Technically it should wait at until the button released.

Should the anti-shake MLU should check if bulb mode is activated or perhaps it will be easier if we switch to another kind of MLU function?

Antishake MLU works splendid to up to 30" seconds. It also works quite well with shutter speeds slower than 1/2. I've been able to take a few pretty "shakefree" pictures as slow as 0"4.

I've noticed that values already had been posted for all these changes at digicregister 0xC14400 ->, but notably they only seem to work for the 5d2 (only other camera I can test at the moment). The ones at 0xC14800 will work for 550D.

I've found some DIGIC values that control tint of the live view screen, controls the text colors and also the box messages.

C0F14800 [ ] [N] Tints live view in nice colors.
C0F14804 [ ] [N] Changes screen text color (but not shutter/aperture colors if in 5x zoom)
C0F14808 [ ] [N] Changes colors of the text screen bar (ie where digic poke values are shown)
C0F1480C [ ] [N] Changes colors of the little x5 zoom icon and the bottom shutter/aperture exposure field
C0F14810 [ ] [N] Changes colors of shutter/aperture when in for example 5x zoom mode

Would be nice to add this also in the Color schemes and even tinting the live view screen could come to use. ie. tinting the screen is a darker blue, if the theme was blue or whatever...

It seems most color-combinations are selectable...

... and also found some new stuff at c0f231xx...

http://magiclantern.wikia.com/wiki/Register_Map/Brute_Force/C0F2xxxx#C0F231xx

Found new stuff at 0xC0F230XX thanks when writing 0xFFFF0000 at c0f2116c...

http://magiclantern.wikia.com/wiki/Register_Map/Brute_Force/C0F2xxxx#C0F230xx

I've just started scracthing on it after your reports on c0f231xx, but it looks like for instance:

c0f2310c looks like slightly sharper diagonal patterns/outer contours (I was shooting at a white screen macbook)
c0f23110 interfers a lot more in the diagonal and outer contours than c0f2310c
c0f23114 slightly less interference than for instance c0f2310c, c0f2310. (for example when poking <<8 )
c0f23118 (for example when poking <<8 )

c0f23120 outer contour
c0f23124
c0f23128 (<<8 )
c0f2312c  (<<8 )
c0f23134 (<<8 )
c0f23140 (<<8 )
c0f23160  (<<8 )
c0f23168 (<<8 )
c0f2316c (<<8 )

... more to come...

I've just scratched the surface but found that 0xC0F1A000 - 0XC0F1AFFF possibly holds all the colorchannels including white. I was too lazy to make any looping code, but unrolled it instead:

http://pastebin.com/PfF5DYua

Put the code for example into lv-img-engio.c  in function digic_poke_step() after digic_show();
Dont forget to mask out //_EngDrvOut(digic_register, digic_value);

[Edit]
Running it will resemble Movie ML digital ISO gain. But there's possibility of changing each color channel, ie. like the filters in Sin city, or others. The only problem is that not all the values have been mapped. This requires some further DIGIC Poking, or code testing and mapping...

[Edit2]
Possible banding and noise is introduced in the shadow areas. Some of the registers will not react until for example underexposed by -2 EV or overexposed +2 EV of a certain color. 

http://magiclantern.wikia.com/wiki/Register_Map/Brute_Force/C0F1xxxx#C0F1A0xx

Very nice!

Strange. I'm using Mountain Lion with a 2012 year model mac and it unpacks easily on the desktop. From there I drag and drop it to the card. Never mind mac/pc, as the autoexec.bin and other files are to be put on the SD/CF card and not run from the computer...

Use Unarchiver perhaps?

Yes. that did the trick. I will have to run a few more shots because I kind of thought they all looked a bit weird from a flash-wize-perspective...

[Edit]

Everything seems to work ok, even with the built in flash. Will try and see if 5d2 acts different... 

[Edit2]

With 5d2 and 580Ex II, there's a tendency that the flash does not go off at every picture taken. Possible culprit is recharge.

Further there's sometimes two pictures taken instead of just one, with a few seconds interval between the two and also shutter sometimes halts in the mirror up mode, which forces me to press the camera once or turn it off.

I also noticed that the flash made two unexpected flash exposure reading operations after turning on camera and flash. It should not do anything. I could not reproduce the latter, the others are reoccuring from time to time.

I can confirm that ML Auto ISO limit can surpass iso 400 and even up to 6400.

I choose 1/1000 shutter for Av mode and was able to get pretty high iso with the Canon Speedlite 580EX II. I had to activate the High speed function on the flash, of course.

With Canon it will never go beyond 1/200, iso 400 unless one does it manually, where it is fully operationable of course.

Using built in flash, I noticed a tendency to overexpose, but that's because setting a value above 1/200 seems not possible...

Had troubles getting the halfshutter to work on my Canon 550D with my Canon Speedlite 580EX II. It seems this also applies for when using the built in flash on the Canon 550D.

Here's a print out using a Speedlite first set to On, and then turned off using Anti-shake MLU debugging.

Have been using a Sandisk 64 SDXC for a while now. And it's quite easy to reformat, reinstall nightly builds. (Format it as a exfat)... It usually works ok, but sometimes pulling it from the computer or wiping files, it has a tendency of not booting up ML and it can even give quite creepy errors. Usually I have to format the card then make sure it's bootable with EOSutulity...

Not sure I actually did right, but here's the dm.log after taking a picture in M using Canon's MLU function.

(550D)

http://pastebin.com/6UKgJbup