Topics

Is there an alternative way to enable RAW shooting on the 60D?
My Main Dial is malfuntioning, and I am stuck with only JPEGs after doing a full reset.....

I have an odd glitch that I am wondering if  Magic Lantern could be responsible for:
The Main Dial on my 60D works to change the Shutter Speed, or Aperature, but when I go into the Menu and try to use it to change settings, or scroll on the menu, it acts exactly as a half press of the shutter button would, and takes me out of the menu.
Some settings can ONLY be changed by turning the Main Dial to the right or left, but doing so immediatley takes me out of the menu like a shutter button press would.
So, I can get the camera into RAW mode, nor can I set AEB bracketing for example.
Could Magic LAntern have done this?
Using the camera with a non ML card does not solve the problem, but maybe ML altered something in the Canon firmware?

Found the steps to use the UFRAW, but I wnat to use XMP files.
Anyone know where I might find instructions?

Hello All,
I don't want to get in trouble for asking, so I searched for some time before breaking down and asking...
Does Auto ETTR work on the 60D?
How well is it working?

Is it possible to have the bulb ramping work without ML's intervalometer, but with an external intervalometer?
That way a timelapse dolly could control the shots, and ML could ramp the exposure?

Hi,
I would like to make a time lapse with focus ramping.
Is there a way that I can have the intervalometer shoot a number of shots before the focus ramping begins?

I've got a sequence shot at 30 frames per second--with ML HDR.
I separated the light and dark frames so that I could use SNS-HDR to combine them (with very natural results).
Now I have half the number of frames of the same length of time.
What in your opinion is the best way to restore natural motion in After Effects?
...
I know that shooting in 60p would do the trick--but I don't like the look of 720p on the Canons...

I don't know if this is related to having ML installed, but now whenever I half/press the shutter, or rotate the dial on the FRONT of the camera (by shutter button), or hit ANY button up front, (drive ISO, etc.,), the LCD instantly shuts off.
I hit 'Q', and it turns back on (or MENU, or INFO)--but as soon as I turn that diial or half-press the shutter--right back off..
I need it to remain ON.
I cannot find how to do this.
I've been looking for an hour know.
I've read the manual through, but I'm missing it.
Any assistance out there?
Thanx in advance.

Thank you to all (Francis) who helped me before with this issue of intervalometer inntervals.
I do Astrophotography timelapses with many different lenses, meaning many different shutter speeds.
Magic Lantern skips interval choices: 9,10,12,14,15,16,18,20,25,30.......
...
I need to have intervals that are one second longer than my shutter speeds...just enough time to process the picture.
Longer delays leads to gaps--undesired for my purposes.
Francis did make one that has 26,27,28,29, and for that I am very grateful.....
But I find that I need one second intervals all through-out the range, so that gaps don't appear in my startrails, timelapses, etc.
I post this here in case some other astrophotographers might agree with me....
...
I know it means more time to scroll through the numbers, but I think the fine tuned control would be worth it.
Thank you VERY much for all that has already been done....

How about a one-shot-then-reload Audio RemoteShot?
I love the "triple handwave" trigger on the t2i, but now on my 60d I must use audio trigger.
It will snap a bunch of pictures unless you turn it off (quietly) before it fires again--
a problem when the shutter speeds are extremely long....

Hi guys!
Just got back from my annual Perseid Meteor Shower phot trip--this time I used Magic Lantern!
To shoot the Meteor storm, I used the Intervalometr feature.
With My Tokina 11-16, I determined that the best shutter speed was 25 seconds--this is because the stars turn into streaks at shutter speeds above this.
The PROBLEM is that ML Intervalometer only goes in 5 second increments after 20s.
This means that for my 25s Tv, I need to set a Interval of 30s.
This causes GAPS to appear in my star trails--ideally I would like to set the interval for 26 or 27 seconds, depending how much time the casmera needs to process the pictures.
May not sound like much, but it is vital.
Any way to do this?
Or should I submit a feature request?

Just got a 60d off of  craigslist, and I loaded ML 2.3 RC2 July 15...
Now I have a 550d AND a 60d to test...
I am wondering why the 60d displays temperature in raw units while my 550d displays temperature in degrees Celsius...

Please tell me that this feature is still available in 2.3 RC1, and that I just can't find it--but you can tell me where to......