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Topics - gcrook

Hi,i am actually a bit astounded noone has mentioned this,but the intervalometer counter in liveview is a bit too large and blocks a big area of the frame,being generally annoying, or sometimes hiding things
that had they been visible in the frame,they would call for a change in exposure,or stopping the timelapse and scrapping the sequence altogether etc etc.
There's always the case where the text can be changed or hidden and i haven't figured out how,in which case im a total moron and i sincerely beg your pardon.  :o :'(
So is there any way we could have smaller text or it could be in some way embedded to another area of the live view?
Thank you.
Lately ive started using dual iso to shoot raw (camera CR2) timelapse sequences.It generally works very well but very often i get corrupted frames on both my 550d and 60d.
It could be any number of frames from 1 random frame to tens or hundreds of pictures in a row or in an unspecified order.
All these frames appear to have a colored or black or white block overlayed to the photo usually in the right corner im my 60D.In my 550d they look like white purple interlaced blocks.
Sometimes some bright areas like clouds look like they have clipped to purple color.
I have been using various modes to shoot timelapses it has happened in both manual and av mode and i have no idea how to reproduce it.
Will it help if i upload some raw files but before that does anyone have the slightest idea why that happens?

Edit:Pardon me the CR2 raw files seem to be fine.These artifacts appear only on the converted dng pictures using cr2hdr to extract the raw files.Needless to say ive used a lot of nightly builds so maybe the problem is in the conversion?

Examples, just this morning from my 60D.Dual iso 100-800.  ----- This one is new never seen this kind of image degradation before.
Im sure its something minor that when pointed out it will make me feel totally stupid but here goes.

I cant understand why in tv mode i cant have full range auto shutter anymore (1/4000 - 30secs)
I have tried everything in the ml menu but shutter stays the same.
Now, i dont want to use all those cool ramping or other ml features at this time,all these are great but i want to do a simple day to night timelapse the way i used to before magic lantern,only using the lantern intervalometer instead of an external one.

So i need to expose in TV mode with locked iso, f-stop, and (maybe) some negative exposure compensation from canon menu, auto shutter with spot metering to an area i deem worthy and when shutter reaches its max (30 seconds) ill switch simply to manual use the same settings and continue.

So whats the deal with tv mode not letting the auto shutter do its job?