Topics

Hello,
I looked over the web for an intervalometer that allows increments of 1/3rd or 1/2 seconds.
I have found nothing.

I would need such function to take 1 pic every 1.5 seconds for example (1 sec expo, 1/2 second record image on sd card).
This is super useful with long exposures, to minimize the un-captured time between two pictures.

example, shutter speed 1 second, interval 1.5 seconds = 50% more captures than a pic every 2 seconds, and more fluidity of movements.

Even in a situation where ypou must avoid "jittering", it could be helpful, to make the interval  longer by 1/2 seconds (or 1/3 or 2/3rd) of a second - instead of 1 full second - whenever possible.

For the moment, i often found myself having to add 1 second just to avoid jittering, eventhough 1/3 or 1/2 of a second added to the original values would be enough to avoid jittering.

I would even like increments of 1/10th or 1/5th of a second, but i don't want to look like i am asking too much :-)


But, i found that nowhere, and everyone seems fine with 1 second minimum... that's sad, even if it is a tech limitation, it would be sad.
Thanks if one can explain the lilmitation, or if the ML team would like to think about a real breakthrough for timelapse photography.
Or, if it exists already, please let me know where.
Thanks a lot  !

Hi,
This is a needed feature especially for night/star timelapse photography.

When the LCD is hot, and this comes quickly when shotting 30 seconds intervals, it create random little white dots that blink when played in a timelapse.
It is a kind of noise. It is not actual blinking stars, and does not look like stars: it is a "bug" of digital camera, and well-known in night/star photo (look in books or blogs about star shooting technics and problems that arise with digital sensors and that become more apparent in timelpases). And turning liveview off manually once intervalometer starts will not work (at least, not on canon 60D).

The solution is simple -->>  allow liveview to be turned off when intervalometer begins, and until the intervalometer stops.
This could be an additional option in the intervalometer settings (LV off: on/off).

This will not solve all problems, but will solve many problems when shooting star timelapses.

Thanks for listening.

Hello I tried bulb ramping several times, and i got various issues, but the worse is that there is a point when it does not go beyond a certain timing for shutter speed.

In fact, it would be nice to implement another way for it to work, without having to take a reference picture:
- I would love to set the start parameters, middle, and end parameters. (or a method that is similar to that).

For ex, you would fill info such as (arbitrary values for the example)
- 1st frame: iso 320, shutter speed 3 seconds
- mid frame: iso 1000, shutter speed 18 seconds
- last frame: iso 2000, shutter speed 30 seconds
- number of frames : 500
- In such a system, the EV increments would be automatically managed by ML.
- **** Additionally (haha), and that would be a killer feature, you could set the start and end point so that frames below the start are shot like with the first setting without incremeent, AND the frames after the "last" frame point, are shot with the last setting without incremement decremement.

So on my 500 image sequence, the start would be frame 100, the middle 250, and the end is frame 400. Frame 400 to 500 would be shot with the last frame setting without modification. (and the same for frame 0 to 100)

With the current system, I also get many issues of flickering,
and when the bulb reaches a certain value for bulb ramping (which seems to be related to the intervalometer intervals) , then it cannot go beyond it, it goes back to inferior values, then up again etc etc.
For ex, last time I set an interval of 12 seconds, and ML could not go beyond 8. at 8, it went back to 7.5 or so, and redid a progression until 8, then back to 7 again etc etc. This is weird ?

I do not know if it is feasible, but it would be cool to think about a better way to make it work in a fully manual way without a reference picture.
I hope it is possible or adviseable to work like that ?

It allows to create a completely different progression curve than the default.

Thanks for listening !

I use canon EOS 60D.