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Messages - Anaconda_

#1
These new settings are really exciting, huge thanks to everyone involved!

Is post #1765 still going to be updated for the 'stable' builds? While other releases in other posts are tests?
#2
I've added a .rgb file, which should be fairly raw. I've read you can decode it with dcraw, I have dcraw installed, and am just working out how to use it.

I'm not having any luck and need to stop working on this project for now.. Anyone else can feel free to try and get things working :)

Let me know how you get on!
#3
In theory, the files 'rawvid' and 'rawtest' in the Dropbox link should be raw video, not processed or converted into anything... but I have no idea how to go about looking at them, or looking at whatever information they might hold.

( https://www.dropbox.com/sh/seddezwwymwnh4v/AAAU5es-RCWOXCj1Fpkbz3Dba?dl=0 )

With my limited knowledge, Raspiraw helps decode this and then another program (dcraw) wraps it in a ppm container. I understand the concept and everything in theory, but actually getting it to work in practice is beyond my comprehension. In the words of the developer:

'If you expect everything spoon-fed to you, then raspiraw is not the program for you.'

I love ML on my Canon cameras. Thanks to the efforts of the people behind it, it's easy to understand, set up and work with. Raspiraw seems to be very different from a user's perspective... maybe the backend of ML is similar, but it's hidden behind the UI - I have no idea.

Not wanting to sound selfish, but my camera setup is working as is, albeit with .264 outputs... My switches run the codes I need them to, and I very much hope that in the future I can record some sort of raw, be it DNG, or MLV.

I'd love to be able to help out here, but without being instructed to try specific things, I don't know what I can do. I'll continue to do my own testing and post results, so please feel free to recommend certain (and specific) things, but keep in mind I am not a programmer and beyond the basics, learning python is a pain in my ass.

With all of that said, I do have a VNC on my pi and it's setup to work with remote connections, so I'm happy to connect with people and let them control my system and test scripts and stuff to give someone with more knowledge a chance to make some progress...
#4
I've tried a few, like SlimRaw, but they're not recognising the file. I feel like it needs an extension, but it's anybodies guess as to what extension it needs. I'll keep reading about it and offer more footage as and when more info becomes available.

Quote from: 2blackbar on May 20, 2020, 06:07:24 PM
Digital super 8 eh? id do it too with this setup

Yeah, the sensor size is almost exactly the same as 8mm. and the Pi fits very nicely inside my (previously broken and unusable) Bolex B8.

EDIT:

You can playback the native pi files (that end in .264) in VLC - but I've not found any other app that can open them.

Interestingly, the app Scoop! has this to say about those files:

200520075652.h264
Format                                   : AVC
Format/Info                              : Advanced Video Codec
File size                                : 5.10 MiB

Video
Format                                   : AVC
Format/Info                              : Advanced Video Codec
Format profile                           : High@L4
Format settings                          : CABAC / 1 Ref Frames
Format settings, CABAC                   : Yes
Format settings, ReFrames                : 1 frame
Width                                    : 1 920 pixels
Height                                   : 1 080 pixels
Display aspect ratio                     : 16:9
Color space                              : YUV
Chroma subsampling                    : 4:2:0
Bit depth                                : 8 bits
Scan type                                : Progressive

I don't know if any of that is useful to anyone, but it certainly can't hurt to post it.
#5
Quote from: Danne on May 20, 2020, 02:29:03 PM
Edit: How to decode the h.264 files? Tried viewing but fails.

That's why I converted them to h265 :)

If you didn't see me edit above, there's a few more files in Dropbox.

I've also tried out a few 4x3 resolutions, since that's what I'll be shooting. The largest I could go with that is 1600x1200 - which is fairly reasonable. However I did read previously I should be able to get up to 30fps at 2028x1520, which would be really nice... so far it just gives me errors with that though.
#6
Yes I get that, and I'm aware of how h264 is used. I highly doubt the camera will record DNG as a video stream, as there is a patent out stopping that from being possible. If you could record a DNG video stream, the biggest part of Magic Lantern, raw video, is already taken care of right?

The documentation says:

Picture formats               JPEG (accelerated), JPEG + RAW, GIF, BMP, PNG, YUV420, RGB888
Video formats               raw h.264 (accelerated)
10-bit RAW RGB data       Yes - format conversions available via GPU

I'm unclear as to what 'raw h.264' really means, but since it's not in a wrapper (mp4 / mov) I took that to mean it's as unprocessed as you can get. Would love to be proven wrong though.

Happy to do more testing, but I'm far from a coder, so let me know what to type into terminal and I'll report what happens. (No blowup codes please)

EDIT:
I've tried using some YUV commands which, as far as my understanding goes, should bypass any conversion. I'm unable to look at either a still or a video using this command though. I've added them to the Dropbox folder... again, if they're not helpful, let me know what else I can try.
#7
Premiere won't accept the .264 files, and I feel like taking a still from a converted file defeats the point right?

The originals are there, so feel free to take your own frames and stills.

I've not looked into taking a photo on the pi, but I believe they'd be jpeg.
#8
Sorry it took a while, here's two test shots out my window. I'm really not sure how helpful these are as the only c-mount lens I have has sever blurring and CA especially on the edges. It's 25mm 1.4 which is very tele on this sensor. I tried it at a number of f-stops to hopefully give some variety in the detail. The issues mentioned above get worse the more you open up, and the more you close down the more ISO has to work, so I'm not sure what the happy medium is just yet. Hopefully there's at least 1 frame in here that can be of some use.

Anyway, here's the original files, which come out .264 and I also converted them to h265.mkv for easier viewing.

1920x1080
24p
mixed aperture f1.4 - f8(ish)
auto shutter speed
auto ISO
auto WB

https://www.dropbox.com/sh/seddezwwymwnh4v/AAAU5es-RCWOXCj1Fpkbz3Dba?dl=0

I'm planning to use this with D-mount lenses, but until I've finished my build, I have no way to mount them to test with nicer glass.
#9
I have one that I'm currently putting inside an old 8mm body - hoping to have it ready by the end of the week, so I can post some footage when it's all hooked up.

I could upload some footage already if you like, but it won't be anything more than a tripod shot filming a leaf or something... Also my knowledge of coding etc. is very limited. This is my first Pi project, so I don't know how useful I can be other than sharing footage.
#10
Quote from: ngemu on January 21, 2020, 06:35:35 AM
I am trying to obtain this field of view / resolution (yellow box) by setting the ratio to 'off' and lowering the resolution until I get around 1104x2484. However, I cant get past 12 FPS despite ML saying continuous recording is ok. Both resolutions are similar in pixel count but im having trouble understanding why the yellow box is unobtainable. This is in 5k mode. Can someone please explain, thank you!



I would really like this too - Can you get any other 4x3 resolutions to work?
#11
I'll give it a go. I thought 5k cropped the top and bottom to get more frames (longer shots). With 4x3 giving you more height, and less width, I could still get more frames than shooting 16x9, and not have to estimate my framing.
#12
Hi all, I'm loving these new builds, and have been playing around with the 5k modes. It got me thinking...

Part of the charm of these cameras is the filmic look, and with he preview in 5k being what it is, you need to be more intentional with each shot. It's far from point and shoot. Again, lending its self to the idea of shooting with film. With that in mind, a pistol grip and a loupe, it's a very nice experience.

So my question is: to complete the illusion, is it possible to shoot the 5k modes, but instead of cropping the top and bottom, can I crop the sides to get a 4x3 image?
#13
When shooting in the 5k modes, is it possible to change which part of the frame the real-time preview shows? For example, if I know I want someone framed on the left, I'd like to see the left side of my frame to keep focus etc. But then the next shot might need them on the right so I'd like to change that.

Of course, I can check my shot in the framing view, but if they're moving around or it's a walking shot, the framing will change during the actual recording. If I can see the edge of my frame, then at least I know I'm keeping them in the shot the whole time haha.
#14
Quote from: masc on November 26, 2019, 06:20:20 PM
I can record in 5K anamorphic mode all over the day without one single corrupted frame, without one single crash.

How? I've been trying for the last few days and often get half a pink frame throughout my recordings. I've tried the preset options and run the script thinking it'll set everything up for me.

Also, do you typically shoot in framing or real-time (or mix between both with the INFO button)?
#15
Sure, but previously, switching to photo mode did that automatically, and back to video would put the cropmarks etc. back. There was a setting to make this happen, but now I can't find it.

EDIT: found it. in the Cropmarks submenu 'Show in photo mode: On/Off
#16
I recently updated the build and seem to have lost the ability to turn off any overlays when switching to stills mode. Can someone point me in the right direction?

Essentially, I want to turn off the Cropmarks when taking photos.
#17
Quote from: Danne on August 11, 2019, 01:34:35 PM
Aha, broken completely :)?

Yeah, they click but dont do anything. So far I've been able to work around it, especially as I've been using FD lenses. I just picked up the Viltrox booster and realised I cant adjust aperture as easily as I expected.

Quote from: ZEEK on August 11, 2019, 01:45:22 PM
I have the same issue on my black EOS M...
The up and right button don't  work when pressed. Thankfully the wheel does. It's a common issue with some EOS M Cameras.

Mine is also the black one. Thanks for your INFO tips though!
#18
Quote from: Danne on August 11, 2019, 12:49:25 PM
Push right then use scroll wheel. Works here.

I'm sure it does, but my right and up buttons do not work.  ;)
#19
Quote from: Danne on August 11, 2019, 09:29:53 AM
Or just push right button once and you're in f-stop mode.

Thanks Danne, but as I noted, my up and right buttons aren't working. I guess I'll stick with the INFO route, at the expense of losing multiple LV presets.
#20
How can I change aperture without going into the ML menus? The scroll wheel defaults to shutter speed, which I don't want to change. (my up and right buttons don't work which is annoying and probably the way to switch modes - if it is, can I reprogram which button can change aperture?)
#21
Hey all, I'm a relatively new user. Last time I had ML was on a 550d 6 years ago, and I must say, the M is really surprising me thanks to the hard work that's one into it. Thank you all so much!

I do have just one question though, is it possible to adjust aperture with the scroll wheel? At the moment, when I turn it, I'm changing the shutter speed, but ideally, I'd like to set that on one speed and leave it there forever (1/50) So the wheel could be put to better use on the aperture, which has more of a meaningful manipulation on your footage.

Hopefully I'm just missing the setting, but if not, Danne, is that something that could be added?