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on a pc so stuck with the long route

the best i have got is to blend the frames 1-2, 2-3, 3-4, 4-5, 5-6 so in effect i am not loosing any frames,

I achieved this by duplicating the images so i have 2 sets,
In the first set i batch rename them with a given name and an odd extension, test-1, test-3, test-4 etc
In the second set i delete the first image then batch rename then with a given name and an even extension,test-2, test-4, test-6,
add both sets to the same folder then run through photomatex

i have put up the mlv file and a few of the extracted dngs that dont work

UPDATE
changing the mettadata has now worked, i didnt understand how to change this properly, thought i has but hadnt, now i have they will open in ACR

https://drive.google.com/a/javeapropertyservices.com/folderview?id=0B2fVk87iU79pRk1sb0NpT0trUDg&usp=sharing

mlvraw
hdr

extracted using mlvmystic

this is what i do on the 5dII and it works

DNG files not working

I have read everything I can find but still cant get PS or Lightroom to recognise my dng files

Is there a gui for windows that will convert my dng to something adobe friendly? tried the exiftools to change the meta but it hasn't made any difference,
using MLVMystic to extract the dng and this works great,

this is the best of my tests, and i am having an issue with it being a bit jerky

5DII MLR and HDR Video

if i do just MLR it is silky smooth, with the hdr i introduce the jerky motion, i am presuming its to do with recording at 25fps then halfing the speed, but i am a bit lost here/

workflow
extract to dng using MLVMystic (works a trea)
import dng into lightroom, basic edit, export as full jpg
batch using photomatex
import into lightroom for final tweak and then export again as jpeg
import into premier as an image sequance,

I have tried the after effects, import as image sequance. duplicate, duplicat/merge, and yes it was smother but i couldn't get the the inside/outside balance anywhere near the lightroom/photomatex

sooo
can i sort the jutter effect?
am i right in assuming the 50/60fps of more modern cameras will resolve this?

the footage above is over done, i was seeing the capabilities of a 5 stop range, but this is very nearly giving me something i thought impossible, just need help with the last bit

Thanks for the comment Audionut

I still think dual iso may have some benefits over bracketing for the external shots so I am going to test this,
I think I have come to the same conclusion on the internal shots, though I will again do some test shots just to see,

The film for the Windows is impractical and too expensive for these low budget shots,
I will try finer bracketing though I do it at 1 stop now,
I can achieve better results in post if I develop on an individual basis, but I have to keep it down to about an hour and half for 30-40 images, so that is batch HDR then Lightroom and take about 20/30% taken to photoshop to clean up/expose the Windows etc

I will expand a little,
the problem in my previous post is normally resolved by the use of flash, I still do a 7 shot exposure bracketing but introduce about 2 stops of light to the interior, the bleed is now controlled and the hdr program handles it well, the first image below from the same shoot last week shows this,

the second image is a better example of what i am trying to get ML to help me with,
we have 2 issues, 1, ghosting where the hdr program cant resolve the fine detail of the movement in the palm trees, 2, bleed where the hdr struggles with the huge exposure difference in 2 areas of the shot and we get these dirty areas, these highly glazed areas can be impossible to flash due to reflections,

for all my external shots i see that Ettr and dual-iso to be the key, it will eliminate some of the nasty features exposure bracketing can introduce, and my tests so far have been promising, I suppose I am trying to minimize my processes on site and in post,

over the years i have tried every hdr program out there, some work better than others but when you need to batch your images to save time then you are more limited in your choice,
the main problem is around the windows where you have 6 stops difference, your internally exposed shot has the windows blown, this can be resolved by using an externally exposed shot and manual masking, the problem you have (and all the hdr) programs is that on the internally exposed image you have light bleed on the window frames, this looks horable when processed via a hdr program

In the shot below (that i got wrong) I didn't use any flash because i couldn't place it without getting any reflection, as you can see the window frames are dirty and the shot does not work, also i have ghosting on the outside palms, I can pull the shot back by manually masking/blending the internally correct exposure to correct the window frame and the external for the palm etc, thjough this is time consuming and i am trying to find a solution to cut down on post,

here is a scenario i could do with guru help 

canon 5d mkii

Real estate photography with a large difference in exposure from internal to external,
lets for arguments sake say we have 6 stops (sometimes more) difference in exposure and want to try and use ML to help cope with this,
the internal part of the shot is the most important taking 70 to 80% of the scene, though the 20 to 30% of the windows are very important to get exposed correctly,

I control this at the moment with a combination of remote speedlights and hdr/

For a magazine shoot i controlled this entirely with flash, though i had to use studio lights and it took me about 2 hours to set up to properly balance the light and control shadows and reflections, this is un-practical for normal shots so i use 5 speedlights with pocket wizards and a zone controller, I have found that introducing more than 2 to 2 and a half stops of light makes the shadows/highlights/reflections uncontrollable,

So if i have 6 stops difference but can reduce that to 4 stops by introducing flash how can ML cope with the difference? bearing in mind that the internal is the key element of the photo,

where i am so far,

AETTL, this is going to expose for the highlights so i am always trying to pull the important area out of the shadow, and my tests so far show that there is not enough range in my camera, so i have a perfectly exposed exterior and a dirty dark interior,

Dual_Iso, now i started to get excited, but this is where i am coming unstuck, on a quick test to expose the outside at 100iso i had to increase to 6400iso to get the interior properly exposed (no flash)
so i see this working where i expose for the interior then -2ev on the camera, use my lights to correctly expose the interior, have my iso set in the camera to 1600 and have it set in dual-iso to 100, is this right?
the problem with this is that i will be using 1600iso for the main part of the shot and this would not be my preference

I have played with Ettr and dual-iso together and my issue here is that it always exposes to the highlights (as its designed to do) but as the interiors are the important part of the shot i need to be able to check these on the camera, I can afford to clip the highlights but i cant afford to loose it it in the internals,

any help and advice will be more than helpful, oh and 5D Mkii has 130k on the counter so if my concern about using 1600/3200 can be resolved by a different  camera it could be the excuse i have been looking for 

Thanks
Steve

ps this is the sort of thing i do

hi
just getting my head around this so sorry if its basic stuff,

canon 5dmkii,
using the set button i get an "ettr failed" message no matter what settings i change, it is working in snap and always on mode,

when you have the link to dual-iso feature enabled switched on, am i correct in my understanding that it will only use the dual-iso feature if required? for this i am thinking of workflow, if half a set of images are dual-iso and half are not,

Hi
Canon 5d mkII
windows10
lichrtoom 6

I have set dual iso 100-800 on my camera and i can see the striped image exposed as expected, it looks like a hrd image

i import the dualiso image into lightroom along with a test image shot at 100 iso
dual iso image is showing up like an hdr

export the dualiso image as per instructions, it all works as expected, i see the image with the suffix -dualiso, but the image is no different than my test image? am i missing something?

playing with both images in post i have exacly the same tonal range?

i installed the beta version of the plugin and i get the same result, if i move the highlight/shadow slider it is just increasing the exposure of the entire image