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Messages - David Goldwasser

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I've been playing around with slight picture and intervalometer. I've been playing around with saving as MLV. I have been using MLV to convert to DNG, and then I've been using RawTherapee to convert to process and then Time Lapse Assembler to make the movie files. Seems to work pretty well. Seems to handle bad pixels well; seem noise at first but post processing seems to clean it up well. When I have something I really care about for now I'll still use shutter and intervalometer, but I'll try this a lot as well. Haven't tried out slight picture on longer exposure night shot yet. If I'm shooting stars I probably want all of the resolution.

Thanks for all the help, in a few weeks when I have time hopefully I'll post some shots using various techniques.

Yep, background is a fish tank, and had sunlight and artificial lights going on and off not ideal. The night one was using intervalometer and the auto exposure ramping.

Thanks, I just installed the mlv modules on the camera and am playing with test video with MLVFS that tI shot both with raw video and silent pictures. If I set bad pixel to on or aggressive should the .dng files coming out have some changes made? or does this just writing something to the .idx files?

Looks like there are some good tutorials out there. I'll look into them.

Thanks, I'll look into that. I'd even be ok with a static black frame image (even if not perfect it would be better). Do black frame algorithms fill the bad pixel with surrounding colors? Wonder if I take a copy of the video and heavily blur it, then use the black frame as mask for that blurred version of video, that then sits on top of the original video?

DaVinci Resolve looks great, thanks for top on that.

My use case for this is for FPS override video. As shown on this post I have bad pixels that are very evident when using FPS, in particular if I'm in the 0.2 to 1.0 FPS range. If I were shooting with intervalometer I would jsut use camera's (550d) built in dark frame subtraction or post process the photos. Since I'm shooting videos for FPS Override I'd like to avoid converting to still and then back to video.

It would be really great if there was a way ML could do this as it captures the video, but nto sure that is possible. I can try opening up aperature (using ND filter) and then maybe shooting faster FSP, and then speeding up in post processing?

I just traded in my old 20D for a used T2i so I can use magic lantern. Did some initial testing to compare time lapse with intervalometer vs. FPS override.

Here is a link time lapse video made with intervalometer. Camera in AV mode aperture around 1.8 with 50mm lens shots every 5 minutes

Below are two screenshots from similar setup but using FPS override with 0.2 FPS. For both of these I used an power connector vs. battery which dealt with heat. The FPS still got hotter with sensor stabilizing around 26C. The noise got worse as it got hotter, and I assume to prevent overexposure it was closing the aperture which made any sensor issues seem worse. I wish I could resolve this, I suppose I could post process to remove the noise, but that isn't ideal. Eventually I'll get a new body but for now I've upgrade from my 10 year old 20d to a used t2i.

Below is image capture from FPS override video early in the sequence

This image is later in the FPS sequence

For reference this last one is photo taken with the camera in photo mode with similar setup

Here are two additional tests with my camera of sky time lapse.

This one had camera in program and shot every 1 minute (no ramping setup)

This one had ramping setup. At night got >30sec shutters and high iso. Soon I'll try to do some outside testing without glass and see how I can do with stars.

I just got a 2ti and have been playing around with various time lapse options trying to see how long I can run off a battery.

I first tried using the intervalometer. I set it to take picture every 5 minutes and I had screen off except for 2sec review after the shot. I got about 9 hours.

Next I tried the custom FPS and set it to 0.25, I was able to use powersave in live view to turn off the screen. I think I got about 2 hours with this, but it was a bit weird. There is no feedback about what is happening. When I turned the display back on the temperature warning was on. When I took out the battery it was hot. Not sure if the sensor heated up on its own, or got hot by proximity to the battery. I need to learn if ML can turn off if battery gets too hot? Something to keep an eye on. I ordered an AV adapter for the camera. I'll see what happens to sensor temperature then.

I like to do a lot of day to night time lapse videos. I assume I'll have to use the intervalometer for that vs. custom FPS video.

I have been shooting time lapse with a 20D and a TC-80N3 remote. I find my Sony RX100 out shoots it by lot, in particular at night, but it doesn't have a good way to do time lapse, plus I miss all my canon lens, I tend to use a lot of wide lenses; Canon 10-22EFS and Sigma 18mm fisheye being my favorite. I don't shoot professionally anymore so I don't want the cost or bulk of the 70d, and I'm leaning toward the original Eos M. Traveling with kids it is nice to have a smaller camera. I can keep 22 on for quick shooting, but will use adapter for my other lens a lot.

My question is about battery life when shooting time lapse. Didn't know if anyone had experience with it that they can share. I know there are a number of settings I can configure that will impact this. I will be traveling for 8 days without my computer and the idea of the FPS sounds convenient to save space on memory card (although they are so big now, maybe not a big issue) but of course I give up resolution, mainly important if I wanted to do some zooming on the time lapse. FYI - going to Grand Canyon, Antelope Canyon, X=Zion , Bryce, and Capital Reef on road trip. That is what is spurring me to make a decision.

Any thoughts,

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