Messages

Have you tried re-updating your 5D to 2.1.2 and doing a fresh install of ML?

I just realised that you were wanting to select 1/48 and i told you that 1/48 is one of the options. Maybe you don't have it if you're on NTSC, but my camera only has 24p and 25p so my available shutter speeds are as already stated.

Unfortunately it doesn't seem like ML's shutterspeed options are affected by frame rate at all. You are stuck to 1/48, 1/63, 1/88 and 1/96 which are the more accurate readings from Canon's 50, 60, 80 and 100. It is a good thing that DSLR footage doesn't really meet TV specs because for TV 'close enough' isn't close at all.

Is there a way of getting more accurate shutter speed control with ML, or are we bound to canon's shutter speeds?

So why have you plugged the Zoom into the camera?

If the zoom is just a microphone then why record onto the camera when the sound card cannot compare.
And if the camera is the microphone why record onto the zoom when using the terrible pre-amp in a DSLR?

Your best bet would be to base your audio levels on what the zoom is reading. For monitoring while rolling you should just approximate where your levels appear on the zoom and try to match that on screen using manual audio gain.

Keep your audio between -20 and -10.

Cinemascope is tough for 5DMKII video. It would be great if the internal video size could be changed to get proper cinemascope.

The way I calculated it, using an external recorder and cropping the top and bottom to a 2.35:1 ratio, the largest frame possible is 1620:689. That's pretty small.

Internal recording will allow for something bigger, but you are losing a lot of pixels to get an aesthetically pleasing frame. Could the parts of the sensor being used to pick up image and their corresponding pixels be changed at all? The sensor is bigger than HD, so what prevents the camera from using more of that sensor for video?

I am not requesting 4K out of my DSLR, I am genuinely wanting to know why it doesn't happen.

[sidenote] I would love to customise histogram position

You shouldn't be shooting for hours with a DSLR. Get a video camera, the features are much more catered to continuous shooting.

Shutter speed is entirely to taste. 1/60 is often used for 30fps to look 'filmic', same as 1/48 for 24fps. Higher shutter speeds give a more digital look, like reality TV is shot with shutter speed 1/120 for 30fps or 1/96 for 24fps (I think. I live in PAL land where we shoot exclusively 24 or 25 fps).

Because I shoot at 25fps I think 1/50 is 'film speed', 1/100 or 1/120 is 'TV' and any faster is unnecessary. Slower shutter speeds in video are for effect only. They look weird.

Be wary. This has not been tested so much. When I get a chance I'll be trying to recreate how I killed a CF card which I had copied on 5DMKII.fir, ML folder, autoexec.bin to see whether it had anything to do with the partial copy or was merely coincidental.

From what I have been able to see, pushing beyond 60mb/s recording internally does not serve much of a purpose. You have larger files but the data is just as fuzzy. I have been happy with doubling the data rate (which strangely enough comes out at a bit over 55mb/s which calculates significantly lower than double). Haven't seen any improvement in pushing beyond x2.0.

Although that isn't your question. I hope to give you some more detailed answers using both constant and Qscale bit rates after the weekend, if I can track down a higher bitrate card seen as my other one recently died.

For 5D MKII: So if you have already freaked out/not paid attention in that 5 second period and removed your card, and it now is unreadable on any device or reader: does that imply that your expensive CF card is dead?

Have been playing with the 2.3 RC2 on a 5D MKII, and haven't used Lantern before now, and am a bit disheartened that I can't get a full frame 16:9 output. I can get a 1080 pixel high 3:2 image, but when recording at 10bit in just HD (that's right, I said JUST hd) you start noticing that 19% zoom.

Is this just a straight up "No" because it isn't possible to send 1920/1080 through HDMI, or is there a way I can actually get all my pixels?