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g3gg0 thank you a lot !
Mery Christmas !

enjoy your holliday ( you deserve it !!!!! )

Out of interest, what would be the point in this? If you are plugging in external mics and need independent control, really you are requiring a level of audio that's beyond what a DSLR provides, and should be thinking of either a professional video camera with XLR's, phantom power etc, or an external recording device, like a Zoom H4N or some other audio box that gives you proper preamps and level control.

If you are not plugging in external mics, then separate levels is largely pointless as the mic is essentially receiving the same signal for left and right channels (it's tiny and in one position). The *only* reason I can think of for independant levels is for safety, to let one side be -12dB down than the other, as a safety backup channel if levels get really loud and distort - the DLSR preamps are poor and thus can't be run at a large headroom to account for this - in this case, I can see it would be useful (and I do this on other cameras quite often).

The internal mic on a DSLR is really only for quick and dirty stuff, or reference audio. Any further requirements to that and you should probably be upgrading your audio gear.

Note - I was actually an audio guy a long time before being a photographer/videographer, and I've also got a Sony professional video camera. DSLR audio is (currently, it will probably change) poor at best.

well i am making films for events ( wedding etc. )  , with actors . scripts multy-locations and much more .
i am using 2 neck mics and 1 boom mic.
(boom is dynamic and the 2 neck mics are on the actors )
i am using pannasonic dvc200 cam  ( yeah... old ).
but now i am using the 7d more and more ( for shooting in small locations like cars ).
my wireless neck mics have good amps , so i dont need the 7d run on a full gain. usually on the 7d , i put the gain control on the lowest gain possible, and put the neck mics on a little high gain.
so the 7d will not affect with her crappy amps....
on post , i need the have control on left ( mic 1 ) and right ( mic 2 ) sepertly !   so i can put filters etc...

my job demands fast production ( i have only 1 day to shoot , and 1 day to post ).
and now... full HD ....

dont want to use 4HZOOM , dont have time to press 2 BUTTONS on shotting. its hard enoght to shoot pepole that are not actors.
with MENY speech mistakes ( it take 10-15 time for a good sentance from them )
and dont want to mess with it on the post. (even with puralEYES).
dont want to add to my gear a MIXER ...juicelink mixer

i want to use the smallest and the fastest gear for my job.
a control over left and right on the 7d , can save GEAR and TIME , and have a good amps from my mics.

( i know i will have a prob. with my boom mic ... i will buy 1 with phantom power or someting......)
( btw sorry for my english )

meny thanks ! will donate again on 2nd alpha .
hope i can use headphones for audio preview when i am shotting ( and not only after the shoot  )
... if yes , i will start filming next week ( i know.. i know... ita alpha....)

btw : for the 3rd alpha , can you guys try to control the audio gain SEPERATLY ? i mean volume on the left channel and volume to the right  .... 

again MENY thanks for the the ml 7d !!!! you guys rock !!!!!
"SHANA TOVA" ( have a wonderfull year)  for all the video guys out thare 

Typically, DSLR's use fairly heavy compression. This keeps the file sizes down, at the expense of "quality". How that loss of quality appears will depend on the footage. For example, if you have an area in the frame of very high detail, like a sparkly shiny cloth, that will rob the video of much of it's bandwidth, causing other parts of the frame to lose detail and be washed out.

Increasing the bit rate means there is less overall compression and more bandwidth, which means that cases like these don't rob the video of quality and fine details. This is only one example, there are other cases where you can also see artifacts, poor compression, blocky handling, loss of detail etc.

Now - if you are shooting video and for your purposes are fine with the default quality, then you don't need to increase the bit rate.

However, there are some of us that do want this control, and to have the ability to increase the birate if the scenario requires it - so, it's a good feature to have..

got it....... thats why g3gg0 said he is gonna shoot some trees...there is  Always in the  green leaves some quality loss - pixels.....

10x....

Wow, but is it worth the epic size?

i am a video guy ...but  i dont really know whats that mean....
better quality ? no compression ? better compression ? what exactly the meaning ?.....

There are no signs that Canon might release an official version of Magic Lantern yet.

why not ? its better then their crappy firmware.

ML = android for canon ! (screw itunes)

Ugggg..... What a Nooob!!!

Actually I have been doing this for so long I don't really qualify as a noob but man did I make a NOOB mistake. So you all know the little white box on the Canon DSLR that stares us directly in the face all the time (except when ML is running). Well... I decided to try the Alpha of ML on a job this weekend on the 7D and I was recording out to a Ninja 2 with all drawing OFF via ML. And it looks great except the white box decides to come on arbitrarily!! The worst part is I am so used to seeing it I totally ignore it through most of the day shooting. UGGGGG!!!!! Then to make it worst I think there were a couple of times I turned the camera off and then back on expecting ML to autoexe load like on our 60Ds (dooooooo).

I should have used the Ninja with one of our 60Ds as usual. I'll be waiting for the final release now... Bummer.

Thank you so much for the work you guys are doing with ML on the 7D and all the cameras it is awesome. We really appreciate it.I guess the main thing I wanted you to all know is that the white box on a clear drawing doesn't stay off at this point so keep an eye on it! Usually hitting the trashcan back to the ML menu and back will clear it. I also noticed hitting any other Canon menu item usually refreshes the White box and puts it back on screen. 

damn !!!! 
everything you shoot has this with box ?
i sure hope not.....

this alpha is not for productions..... man.
and there was several posts about the CLEAN hdmi output IN THIS thread ... few days ago...
theres a large chance that they will clean out the graphics that we all can have a clean HDMI to record.

i will have a look into that issue. maybe i find some way to do that.
but for now i think its ok to record on CF - what are the advantages you would see with that feature?

thank you for the replay !
man , if i knew to code in"c" lang , i would LOVE to help you guys ( i know only basic, and pcboard ppe  hehehe )

about the the ENG .. theres a lot of HDMI recorders , and if we can record a/v to it , then we can use the dslr several ways :
1) EVENTS - WEDDING.. use it as an eng camera . shoot entire event with a lagre sensor camera.
2) GREEN SCREEN PRODUCTIONS - no need the come to the camera and start it again after auto-power-shot-down
3) NEWS - press REC anytime somthing happends ( A BOMB ? )

and meny uses for the ENG cameras this days.....
the only prob is that the sensor may overheat.....

ANYWAY , as allways.... thank you very very much , we all know the you are straggeling and working hard on the ML....

@video guys

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rnoHwlK3m2c

is this what you expect from clean HDMI?
please understand that the resolution still is limited to 1620x1080 and thats not easy to defeat.
also the method i use to disable paintings is somewhat problematic and will not work stable.
(canon menus might crash afterwards)

YES ! i think this is what I expect from the HDMI.... NO red button.... THANK YOU ! was it hard to code ?
or you just had to bypass the REC red dot paint code-lines ?

what kind of thing is limiting the resolution ? (somthing is DOWNSCALING the video  to the HDMI port ? DISABLE IT !  )
what is the meaning "canon menus crash" ? can it be fix by or recover by a simple operation ? , then its worth the crashing...
no need to rec to cards ....

BTW ! mabey a stupied question : if i dont press record , and there is no recording , after 2-3 min in LIVE VIEW the camera shout off.. right ?
so i cant really record from the hdmi port without recoring to a cf card.....
mabey you can DISABLE IT ? i mean.. no auto-power-off... it will keep output video untill i turn off the camera ?....
then , it will be a REAL "ENG" video camera.....

   * it is not a firmware upgrade, despite the camera saying "Firmware update program";
it is in RAM only.

*** i think its better to keep it this way... no ? .. its safer this way , without risk of deleting autoexec , ot a camera lock-up risk.....
in the other ml vers you need to remove it from the card and then from the camera . you can brick it if you are not doing it good...

in this ml ver, it seems simple and safe.. ( or i am wrong ? )


@GershberG:
so you want to have a clean HDMI output without any canon graphics overlaid. right? will look into that tomorrow.

*** YES ! WE ALL WANT....in this way we can record our movies to an hdmi recorder and not the the CF card...
(the hdmi is uncompreesed signal?)

WOW ! really good ! works gr8 ! 

the audio meters works on live preview mode but only once...
i mean , in the first time i open the preview (after i load the ML), you see the meters running . and then i press rec buttun , they run...
but when i stop the rec, they stops running... untill i press rec again...

q: i dont have the monitor the chk this , the hdmi port can send a signal without the red dot ?

THANK YOY VERY MUCH !!!  we all love you !!!!

hello ml guys....
I am an Israeli photographer who works in private productions of video and photos.
I'd love to see both my 7D cameras work with the ml software.
good luck to you all 

cracky.