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I figured it out. I opened the 16:9 image in DPP and changed the trim setting to "free". I then saved the file and dragged it from DPP into PS CS6 and it opened it in the RAW import tool. I clicked on the "crop" button and dragged the edges out to include the space that had been cropped. It is now in full 3:2! What a PITA!

I was doing some video work for a client and then immediately afterward, I did a photo shoot for another client. I forgot to switch my camera back to 3:2 for the photo shoot. The result is all of my photos being cropped to 16:9. I have tried everything to get them to 3:2 but nothing is working! They are RAW files taken with a 6D. When I open them in DPP I can see the info outside the 16:9 crop box, so I know the full 3:2 data is in the file, I just can't work with it!

Anyone know how to do this?

Thanks!

I can record a better quality video with the audio disabled, but I will enable it and play around. Still going to be limited to 4GB file size though.

I guess the only real option is to capture the HDMI output?

Very cool, but $200 may be a bit more than I had in mind. Thanks for the reply though!

I have tried all sorts of software combinations to try to make my camera work properly as a webcam, but can't seem to get it quite right!

I am a drummer and want a full quality capture from my camera! Yes, I know I can record to sd and play with it after, but the sync on the audio is VERY important. I use an external mic set on my kit that I jack in to my PC and record the sound there. If the sync is off by even a hair, it looks WRONG! I can get it very close, but it takes a long time to get it right!

I have a 4TB RAID array with a Quad Core processor, 16GB of RAM and Windows 7 is installed on a SATA III SSD. I know my computer is fast enough to handle the stream!

Does anyone know what software could be used to do this? I am happy to pay for software, if it will be guaranteed to work. Extrawebcam does not work, so don't bother recommending that one!

Thanks!

There was a fair bit of flicker left in the LRTimelapse version of the same RAW set. I spent hours trying to remove it. It did do a better job, but I don't think the extra time it took paid dividends.

The idea of selecting the sky is good, except that in this particular instance, I metered at the end for the city itself. I wanted to draw the attention away from the sky and down to the city as it came to life. I was able to easily do that in LRTimelapse and that part worked great!

I have got a comparison done in the Video section of this forum. I used LRTimelapse and compared its great effort to that of the easy click and forget a1ex program. I am impressed, to say the least! Even at default settings it looks just as good if not better! With a bit of work I think it will be really great!

http://www.magiclantern.fm/forum/index.php?topic=3217.0

http://www.magiclantern.fm/forum/index.php?topic=3221.0

This is the same set of images, processed with a1ex's Deflicker program at default settings. I honestly can't say I gained a lot from the hours I spent in LRTimelapse. This did a remarkable job! I will play with it a bit and see if I can improve the product.

https://www.dropbox.com/s/gh1sr25u3wirpos/Deflicker.mp4

So, I am planning on buying a full frame "toy" for myself as a Christmas present. I want to stay under $3000! Everything I read tells me that the Nikon D600 is better than the 6D and I mostly can't argue with that logic. However, there are two things that really make me think the 6D might be better for me.

#1. Lenses! Not only are Canon lenses cheaper, but I already own 4 of them (though only 2 of them have a red dot).

#2. MagicLantern (of course!). But, I can use ML on my 600D and probably would not need most of the features on my full frame.

I guess my question is, what do you folks think is the better choice? I am seriously torn!

Thanks!

This video is the product of 5 or so hours of total play (some might call it work). I feel like the time was well spent and am fairly pleased with the resulting video! Please share your comments/questions below.

https://www.dropbox.com/s/3azmbbk1yzwe07v/Sunset.mp4

Thanks!

Bit late, I know. But I bet if you tried motion detect with a high enough threshold to be triggered by the sudden change in light coming through the lens, you would get a great result! Similar to the way you setup for lightning: http://www.dpreview.com/articles/7002555087/lightning-photography-with-magic-lantern

Perhaps you could rig up a remote trigger splitter that starts the video recording with a half press of the shutter? If the signal is being sent from a single remote into both cameras simultaneously, it seems to me they would be in sync. It would be a fairly cheap experiment, even if it does not work, you won't lose much.