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I mean infrared remote.

Here original:
https://store.canon.se/canon-rc-6-wireless-remote-control/4524B001/

There are also dozen alternatives and DYI projects.

https://www.doc-diy.net/photo/eos_ir_remote/

If your cams are close to each other, maybe you just need an off-shelf remote for 10€ and by pressing the button all cameras will be triggered. I don't know your setup, you should be more elaborative.

You can use IR remote. With some tinkering you could provide every cam a dedicated IR diode to trigger it.

"it it's not broke don't fix it" so was there a problem with the old site?

This rule doesn't apply to things exposed in internet. Keeping old, unmaintained software is asking for problems sooner or later. Unfortunately.

M50, M50II have no AF in 4k.

M50 has contrast AF in 4k.

Right, that was it! After opening the card door, wait few seconds until the LED goes off and only then remove the the card. This applies also when the camera is off!

this option is off. I always turned off then remove SD.

Power-down always takes a while. Do not remove SD card slot until LED indicator stops blinking (it might take ~5 seconds). Might be that you removed the card to quickly?

If your phone has an IR blaster, you can use an app which sends the correct signal via IR to the cam to trigger it remotely (emulating the RC6).

Here an example:
https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.haui.camerainfraredremote

I am using irplus
https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=net.binarymode.android.irplus

which is configurable. I control a TV, an EOS camera, an audio amplifier and Christmas lights with one app on my phone.

Well done! You're doing a fantastic work!

This won't eliminate the problem but change the appearance of its result. All objects moving in the direction of sensor readout will get extended in length. Moving in the opposite direction will get squeezed. Maybe it will be less disturbing than the jello effect, maybe more. I don't know without seeing some examples.

DSLR is dead.

M50 is an inexpensive, modern, very decent DSLM with some low-hanging fruits (functions existing in firmware, not exposed to a user like silent shutter enable/disable in any mode, 1- or 1/3 stop ISO selector) and some potential for tough work in very long-term perspective (it natively supports 4k video).

It's my first choice for using manual lenses (in-viewfinder focusing assistance), first choice-for using 35mm-FF lenses (short flange, speedbooster).

There are rumours the M-line is dead. If so, the second hand M-line-cams may become very inexpensive in the near future.

Yes, I'm biased.

The GUI ones don't seem to be able to do that

Select a file
Click on "Exif" button on the right panel
Find and right click "Default Crop Origin" field and select "Add tag to workspace"
Do the same for "Default Crop Size"
Click on "Workspace" button on the right panel
Select "Default Crop Origin", change the value in the edit field on the very bottom to 0 0, press Enter, click "Save" button
Select "Default Crop Size", change the value in the edit field to 1952 1112, press Enter, click "Save" button

Your DNG should be modified now.

For batch processing you should use the command line option of exiftool

Sensor calibration is usually about color and I don't think it can fix any vertical scratches or other artefacts.

I believe it's quite the opposite.
https://www.magiclantern.fm/forum/index.php?topic=23086.0

Seems to be the infamous shutter blanking issue: the address of that property is different on some cams/configurations. Dual ISO feature suffers of a similar problem. So far no one found out how to make it rock solid but it should be technically possible. Just no one invested that [much] time. The actual work-around is to find the right address for your cam, hardcode it in the source files and compile a build dedicated to your cam.

Something like here:
https://www.magiclantern.fm/forum/index.php?topic=25976.msg234664#msg234664

Sometimes I just wonder about all of these going mirrorless hype.

For photography mirrorless means for me:
- much better AF: no FF/BF (it was pain in the ass on all my bodies and most of lenses equal to or faster than f/2.8 and I had plenty of them), face/eye-detection, uncomparable more "focus points" -> all in all much faster in use and much more precise AF
- much better auto exposure
- much better DoF control: I can finally see it in the viewfinder; DSLR's viewfinders are just crap, no matter if APS-C or FF
- histogram, additional other overlays, menu and photo review in viewfinder, no need to often switch between viewfinder and main LCD.

Until switching to mirrorless I took most of my shots in LV, just to overcome the above problems. Now I finally have the LV in viewfinder. No more surprises like "oops, I forgot I am in M and all photos are much-underexposed".
Drawbacks: for me none. Higher current consumption is not noticable for me.


What I consider a hype is fullframe. Especially when shooting FF with f/4 lenses. I see no benefit over APS-C.
Mirrorless APS-C or m4/3 is much smaller & ligher but allows same small depth of field (if desired) and amount of photons per photosite just by taking a faster lens. Taking an even faster lens on FF is not possible or not practicable because a) might not exist (there is e.g. no equivalent of Sigma 18-35 f/1.8 Art) b) DoF will be too small. When shooting f/1.4 with APS-C I consider DoF usually too narrow already. f/1.4 on FF is even worse. I don't see a FF+lens combo, which would give me any benefits over APS-C mirrorless with my Sigma 18-35 f/1.8 Art, Sigma 50 mm f/1.4 Art (+speedbooster being a 32mm f/1.0 lens or 50 mm f/1.4 FF equivalent) + a bunch of other lenses including stabilized 10-xx lenses, pocket-sized stabilized x-200mm, pancake 22mm f/2.0 etc.

Nice, hehe. Just FYI: first one comes from canon-europe.com, the second one from asia.canon.

[continuously]

Well, yes, the 1080p videos from from Canon EOS just suck (at least all xxxD, xxD and M* I know). There are many causes which can contribute to the overall poorness:
- aliasing, due to line skipping (as you mentioned); a typical remedy for aliasing is a low-pass filter (Google: VAF 60D)
- sensor readout is lower than 1920x1080 and gets upscaled, e.g. for 70D the raw stream is 1832x1024. Maybe the resizing algorithm is of poor quality (compromise in favor of being computationally efficient). Resolution gets down to <720p if you use frame rates of 50..60 FPS.
- h264 compression bit rate may be too low, implemented compression algorithm may give poor quality (again a compromise in favor of being computationally efficient)

Much improved picture quality in the "3x zoom" mode (available on 600D, 60D, 70D, 7D and some others due to ML...) cleary speak against singificance of the last mentioned factor.

- currently, what is the best solution to continuously record a video whose quality/sharpness/details are as good as possible (close to the result of my phone), while keeping as much as possible the whole view angle of my lens? (the 1x1 crop modes zooms way too much, and still is not perfect)

VAF filter + RAW. Don't know if it is continuous on 60D.

If you know some post-production trick to get the details back, please let me know.

Not possible.

And if you ask me, I got rid of these "problematic" lenses, as I didn't like them anyway (EF-S 24mm f/2.8 STM & EF 50mm f/1.4 USM).

Already discussed
https://www.magiclantern.fm/forum/index.php?topic=22054.0

I'm imaging I'd go to make an interview, fly thousands of miles by plane both ways, ask a man everything I want to know about him, and finally, when I'll get home, it'd appear that there's no sound in most of clips. That's it, the life is over.

If it's a matter of life and death, you'd better not rely on reverse-engineering hacks but invest in professional equipment.

Yes, correct. Last question from my side: which build do you use?

What do you mean with "double tap"?
- Do you tap twice using the same finger?
or
- Do you tap with two fingers at the same time?

Camera Connect is still way better than the old "EOS Remote". And in case of 70D I have bigger problems with the Wifi menu of the camera itself than the mobile app. Some of the adventures: 1) connect the app if your phone already has the password stored. You can't, need to delete the saved netword first. 2) Find password in the cam settings if wifi network was already once configured. The procedure is totally stupid. 3) Find the hidden button to proceed with connecting procedure after you connect your phone to cam's network. It's not in the app itself but in notification list of your phone. Canon logic.

I really wanted to avoid the adventure of connecting the app with 70D... UX is so crappy, that it always takes me 30 minutes of random clicking until I find the right sequence how to do that. O___o This feature is just useless in the field.

But OK, you've convinced me. Result: the app doesn't have any option to switch to video mode. Even the hardware switch is deactivated with WLAN=enabled.

[DIGIC 5]
70D y/n
6D y/n

Hello Walter,

I guess this answers the question for 70D:



Probably it's there for a reason.

Anyway, 70D and 60D1 have a dedicated switch for photo/video mode so I don't really see a need for mode remapping for these two particular cams.

Please provide us with updates if there are any.