Messages

I guess you right dude, i´ll try it again, i got here a docen of pink, drop and other annoying raw frames

I got the same problems too, with my 5D3, using the last ML firmware at 720/60fps but only happens when i magnify the image at 5x with the SET button
at 1920x1080, what i´m doing wrong? is very annoying

https://www.dropbox.com/s/ubiyw0pobld8duy/Comp%201_01345.jpg?dl=0
https://www.dropbox.com/s/ecqg0drfim9vrai/Comp%201_01408.jpg?dl=0
https://www.dropbox.com/s/4pdx9dtpz36gju9/Comp%201_01518.jpg?dl=0

I dont know if this EOSHD guy is a lier or something like that, I do not want to judge too soon but I am very upset ´cause  I bought this on August 19, through Paypal and then i received the link for download it and i cant download, something is wrong with his service, then i send several messages, facebook messages, email, about 7 messages so far i can get any response or traces of life of this Andrew Reid guy, apparently is lost in the jungle or the earth swallowed him, meantime , I need to keep doing my job. I am very disappointed.

Can you please show me how can i use this ML feature?

Hi, how can i use or activate ir the hyperfocal info with my canon 60D and my Tamron 17-50 lens for help me to shoot nature and landscapes photos? is this possible?

You should definitely try FPS override if you don't mind the lower resolution

Lower res?  low quality video? i dont get it.

Excelente, justo lo que necesito. Saludos.

Holaaa, espero con ansias tu revisión del ML, mi lengua nativa es el español y soy consumidor de productos dslr, tengo una serie de equipos aqui y aún no lo he explotado, estaré atento a tu canal. Saludos.

Thanks for your opinions, it was hard, after many attempts, as the light was constant, no flicker problems, with many stars i just take photos for two hours, every 1 or 2 interval seconds, (ML) and then Lightroom 4.1, but using the LRTimelapse pro presets, very good, because the default ones in the LR has some quality issues.

With my canon 60D crop factor camera, I used the 600 rule, 24mm *1.6/600= 15.6 shutter exposition, (approximate value in camera) for avoid star trails, (believe me, it works)  I used my Tamron 17-55mm, with VC off and manual focus (obvious), focusing to infinity,  2.8 lens aperture, iso 400 and 3200k WB and some post processed work, especially for correct the wb and noise and other things, is up to you,  i´m still practicing. I´m doing a storm passing clouds right now and a sunrise, but i´m kinda worried about my shutter part life, I read that only have 150k shoots,  =( I'm definitely going to still trying TL´s, I'm obsessed with this.

Please correct me if i´m wrong.

Cheers!

The first of many attempts, killing my shutter life =(

I hope you guys like it =)

I specialize in 360 panoramas, here you can see the latest projects of virtual tours in Poland. It was a lot of fun working on it, I am planning on adding more panoramas soon. I am using ML to do HDR.

http://www.wadowice360.pl/

Share your workflow please.

Wich mode my friend, please?

My answer : Manual Mode. =)

Thank you kihlbahkt, i like your words and recomendations, i was thinking the same, is logical for me that before trying to immortalize this important event, i would have to practice, i dont want to screw it, i know some more the settings of ML but i need to learn a lot more, my exact question is how can i use the settings of the intervalometer and other technical things in ML for make it right, do i have to use in video mode or shooting in raw? i´ll make this for the first time and i want to practice from now to Saturday night, it will be my first meteor or star trail o whatever timelapse. =)  Regards.

Hi everyone, two months ago I went to Alberta, Canada and took some footage using my 550D loaded with Magic Lantern. I tried to keep the HDR as natural as possible

Thanks for watching!

Very nice video, could you please share your workflow?

As you all guys HOPEFULLY know, the perseids meteor shower is happening the night of August 12th, and i'm definitely going to be out there capturing photos and maybe even making a time-lapse too. The only thing is, I know meteors last for maybe a second or two.. so what should my best ML workflow for capture this beautiful nature event? i mean all the details, exposure and other for do it properly? to capture as a time-lapse motion of the meteor moving through the skies..

I hope you can help me, i´ll do that the first time..

Ok, i remember that, i always use the quick focus when i have the oportunity, in AF mode of course, i will try to upload some my last video in a few hours.

I like it. If you compare the final with the three single shots, then you have the best part of each captured in one. The clouds have detail and texture, the river looks crisp and the vegetation has a fresh green and is visible in all detail.
But the point is, YOU have to like it (or your customer, if it is commercial).
HDR is mostly about enhancing details: details in the lighting, details in the colour and details in the texture. For example your sky: It is mostly grey clouds, so in the HDR they will still be grey clouds. Many HDR seem to look good, because they have some sunset or sunlit clouds in them.
Another idea: In SNS you can use masks to work on selected parts of the picture. If the sky is to bright, then put a mask over it and make it darker without affecting the landscape.
But again, just my ideas, no hard rules here.

Thank you Schloime, i really apreciatte your opinion. I´m going to practice the use of mask in SNS.

Please tell me your opinions about my final HDR test.


Rio Mayo FINAL por Fireman777, en Flickr

Proccesed 3 RAW files to 16-bit TIFFs in Adobe Camera Raw, merged in SNS HDR with corrected WB, in all the shoots, with the original exposures, i use the "natural" preset in this software and slide some controls, like contrast, shadows, saturation and a WB again, well testing here.

This are the 3 Raw files, converted to Tiff for SNS-HDR:


Canon 60D, Av Mode, Automatic WB, Using ML 2.3 HDR, -6.94EV Lanscape Picture Style por Fireman777, en Flickr


Canon 60D, Av Mode, Automatic WB, Using ML 2.3 HDR, -10EV, Lanscape Picture Style por Fireman777, en Flickr


Canon 60D, Av Mode, Automatic WB, Using ML 2.3 HDR, -4.03EV, Lanscape Picture Style por Fireman777, en Flickr

I have followed many of the tips posted here, is there more to be done?

There are way too many HDR workflows out there which involve a multitude of applications.

I am currently using this workflow:
- Processing RAW files to 16-bit TIFFs (you can also adjust WB at this stage - make sure to do it for all shots)
- Aligning (if shot handheld) and merging to HDR using applications such as Photomatix or HDRengine (you need to try out each of these software to determine which works best for you; up till this day I still think that there isn't a single app which is good for all types of photos, so I vary when I see that one of them doesn't give me good results)
- Open the original exposures and the tonemapped HDR as layers in Photoshop to blend in areas from the original exposures using masks (for example I always pick the sky from one of the original exposures since most times the sky in the tonemapped HDR looks overcooked compared to the rest of the image)

The key to finding the right workflow is to practice and experiment. Remember that while there are many more workflows out there, they may not be the right ones for you, so in the end you will need to find out which workflow and tools suit you best!

Thank you Malcolm for your advice, im going to try it, and still investigating?

Here are some tips based on your sample video:

- Keep the shutter speed locked at 1/(fps * 2). For example if you're shooting at 24fps, keep the shutter speed at 1/48 or 1/50. Most probably this is the reason why your footage appears choppy. If you need to adjust the exposure (for example if you're shooting outdoors at the lowest ISO possible and don't want to shoot at f16), get a variable ND filter (this screws on to the front of your lens and allows you to darken the scene as much as you want by rotating it, without changing any exposure settings).

- Try a different picture style, ideally Neutral Flat (google it to find the exact settings). The picture style could be affecting the noise.

- Stabilization is key. Either try to use IS lenses, or if not possible, get a monopod. You'll get much smoother results.

When i shoot video i always follow the speed locked rule, sometimes i shoot at 24fps with 1/50 ML, and sometimes 30fps with 1/60 my results are not choppy i see some fast movements with a strange results, specially when i shoot people dancing, is quite dificult to get a nice results with people dancing i guess. I use the lower iso possible (160) and i ordered two Light Craft Workshop FADER ND mark II for my two lenses cause in indoors i cant achieve the shallow depth of field trying to get the correct exposure.

I was using the Cinema Picture Style, and now i´m trying the Marvels Cine Picture Style v.3.4 and reviewing the results.

About the stabilization when i use my Canon 50mm 1.4 lens i use a monopod, but when i use my tamron wth the VC activated, does its job =)

How do you view your videos? I use an iMac so I first screen my clips by playing them directly from the memory card as quicktime will play the h.264 clips.

Check your settings for Sharpness, Contrast, Saturation and Tone. Many flat picture styles recommend setting the in-camera sharpness to zero and add it in post if needed. Like Neutral Flat (built in picture style). However, I like to add 2-3 to in-camera sharpness as I think that gives me a better sharpness than adding it in post.

I had similar problems like you until I started shooting outdoor with excessive light. So exposure is very important.

Focus!! If you're focusing manually then try Quick Focus if your lens has autofocus. Zoom in before recording to check that the subject is in focus.

What Malcolm said about 1/(fps * 2) is important. Your videos will be choppy like hell if you go for faster shutter speeds. Only do it if you're shooting a clip for slow motion.

Lastly, your gear should give you crisp and clear looking video so keep testing.

Well i download the videos from my card to my hard disk and review it with Media Player Classic.

I have to make some changes and some tests with the Picture Style settings, i will add 2-3 sharpness in camera for avoid make it in post.

Please tell me how exactly works the Quick Focus.

Because all my gear gives me a nice looking video results that´s why i bought it, but its hard for me right now. Thank you guys for your help, any other advices?

Maybe there is a misunderstanding. Please disregard if I'm wrong.

The automatic HDR-bracketing in ML does NOT make a perfect HDR automatically, it just decides, how many pictures in which EV-spacing it needs to cover the whole dynamic range. No program will know, what looks perfect for YOU. You still have to play with the sliders (and hopefully understand what they do) to get the result you like. ML helps you in getting the pictures, and SNS gives you a good starting point.
Correct me if I'm wrong, but I think NO HDR-pic on this website was straight out of the box.

Yes my friend, you are so right,  i know that i have to do some work or maybe a lot to get a very nice results, but i dont know how to get a nice photo before to join the photos with the differents exposures, when i play with the sliders i cant get a nice photo.

Look this photo please, a very sharp and clean, I would like get the same result no matter what if i have to do some hard work, my problem is HOW!! 

http://photography-on-the.net/forum/showthread.php?t=1211886

you might want to post some examples of individual images and assembled hdr images.... a lot can depend on the proper settings for the tone mapping algo suitable for the given scene. So far I yave managed to get nice results wity both Photomatix and Luminance Hdr, but I mostly use tyem for HDR timelapses...

How can i share with you guys the images that i take with my 60D? When i use the Photomatrix (x64) my results has to noise, i use the SNS-HDR Home.

OK, after reading my post again I have to admit I forgot something.
Lots of people recommend (assuming you shoot RAW) to go through the raw-converter of your choice (DPP, Lightroom....) and correct the pics: lens-corrections, de-noise as good as possible (since HDR multiplies noise somehow), and whitebalance them.
Don't do any exposure corrections. Then save as lossless as possible (tiff?) and proceed with SNS.

But then, I am still learning, too. 

Actually i shoot in raw, always, I think perhaps my mistake is to put the photos directly without using the Lightroom or maybe Photoshop for correct some isues and details for enhance each photo, is this a different workflow maybe?

I think that after the merge the three images with the SNS-HDR and look the final result then i have to make the tone mapping i guess, and i have here a final result with no tone mapping.

Thank you for your answer Schloime, those pics for example:

http://www.magiclantern.fm/forum/index.php?topic=1080.0

http://www.magiclantern.fm/forum/index.php?topic=1072.0

Or this:

http://photography-on-the.net/forum/showthread.php?t=1211886


Sorry for my vague question, but i cant to get a photos like this, and those guys explain it as simply and then I try to do the same thing but do not get results like those.

Why those guys show their pics as a simple process, and using ML,  i really dont get it =(

Thank you for your answer Schloime, those pics for example:

http://www.magiclantern.fm/forum/index.php?topic=1080.0

http://www.magiclantern.fm/forum/index.php?topic=1072.0

Or this:

http://photography-on-the.net/forum/showthread.php?t=1211886


Sorry for my vague question, but i cant to get a photos like this, and those guys explain it as simply and then I try to do the same thing but do not get results like those.

I hope dont bother you guys again, i´m searching some info about the last magic lantern that i have and the cinema picture style that i just to bought it a few days ago, i saw some videos everywhere, specially those made it with the canon 60d, like my camera, i´m the owner of this camera, with the last firmware 1.1.1, required for the 2.3 ML and i have some issues here that i want to resolve, well i considering myself as a noob in the dslr world, coming from the P2 workflows, now traying to do some art with this camera i need some advice for use my canon correctly, specially with the workflows.

My gear: Canon 60D, a SanDisk Extreme 32Gb 45Mbps 300x speed, a fast card i guess, a rode mic with a stereo mini jack plug and my favorite lens are a canon 50mm f1.4, a Tamron AF 17-50mm F/2.8 XR Di II VC and other stuff for video.
I´m using 1.4x  CBR mode.

I am not satisfied with the video results, appears quite noise (i use ISO160) and low quality, dont like it, i need , if you guys dont mind, to achieve the same results of this videos, for example:

videolog/?p=10681
http://vimeo.com/41883190#

I mean, very clear, with low noise, with nice colors and something that i cant or i dont know to say, i cant achieve the same results.

Could you please show me or share with me your whole workflow, starting with your ML settings and, WB, ISO, shutter speed, outdoor and indoors? importing to an NLE and other please? in the last days i was shooting some fast movement people in video and i was using the 24p mode at 1080 and 30fps too.

I see some videos around here that you guys shoot at 24p and in vimeo, youtube and other i can see it very fluid and smooth, i cant do that, when i shoot and play the videos before to edit i see very jerky.

I´m really, really sorry to bother you guys with all that, i´m really desperate cause i dont have how to work properly with best results and as i said i hope you can help me with the HDR photos too, I do not think that a good camera like this and the lenses that i have gives me such bad results like these, something I'm doing wrong.

Best regards..

Sorry for my english level, spanish is my native language

Hi guys, well i´m quite sad here ´cause i cant achieve a decent hdr pic with my canon 60D and my lenses, i spend some money in SNS-HDR Home software to try to mage a nice hdr photos but i cant do it, also i tried the Photomatix Pro software and nothing, i need some help here with the details about how can i use correctly my camera, i have those lenses:

Canon 50mm f/1.4
Tamron 17-50mm f/2.8 VC version, and a tripod and a remote shutter

Please help me guys with this, the ML correct workflow for do it right, i like to shoot landscapes mostly.