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Thank you!

Looks like it is not possible to take full-res stills without shutter clicks :

"To make a timelapse without increasing shutter count, do not use the intervalometer; instead, set FPS override to a very low value (for example, 3fps) and start recording.
When using the intervalometer in LiveView with noisy mode, your shutter will wear twice as fast than outside LiveView."


I have now bookmarked the manual, which I could not find by searching for "EOS-M manual"

Sorry if this has been asked before, a quick search of the forum didn't help:

Can you use the ML intervalometer for taking pictures with an open shutter, i.e. not mechanically straining the camera taking hundreds, even thousands of photos?

"What about copying them to your computer first?"

That goes without saying... 

Seriously, does the fact that the "Set lens to shooting position" is missing on power-on give any clue to the problem?

"Loading" means: Fresh install or "extract nightly contents and copy contents to card"?

In my case, it was the latter. I did remove and trash the old before copying the new.

But, if this means the problem is solved, i.e. do a low-level after a nightly, then all is rosy for the future...

Ha! Yes - it's *supposed* to leave the ML on the card... my bad! 

BUT: Loading the latest nightly build, the bug is back! New low-level format, shutter bug gone !

So, everytime you load a new nightly, do a low level format (and lose the photos on the card...) ?

I tried that and - wow! Indeed, no shutter bug anymore.

Very strange, though: Letting the camera do a low-level format did NOT remove the autoexec or the ML files, but did indeed zero the DCIM and MISC folder, and removed a folder named "old FIR". The card was also renamed to EOS_DIGITAL by the camera.

So, this looks promising. Anyone else care to try? Will your autoexec and ML folder be left intact after the low-level format?

No cigar.

I renamed my ML card to EOS_Develop - shutter is still buggedly locked, will operate only after lens twist trick.

This happened with the 18-55, and also the new 55-200 mm lens.

It ALSO happens with the 11-22 if it is in the shooting position when you power on the camera, but NOT if you power on with the lens collapsed.

However, then the message "Set lens to shooting position" does NOT appear! This always appears with a collapsed 11-22 lens with a non-ML card.

The 22 pancake lens does not cause the shutter bug, only the 3 other lenses.

Yes, I've got all four lenses, being an EOS-M fan (or freak?)

Hope the above helps diagnosing...

@ a1ex: 

I first thought that the cropping was done in ML...  But why, indeed did Canon implement the crop like this?  (As a matter of fact, the crop feature is disabled in the EOS-M, even though it is available in other EOS models!)


@ Frank7D:

I did it by comparing a still in full resolution, then a frame grab from a crop video, both shot with the exactly the same lens setting.

Superimposing them in Photoshop, I noted that they didn't match pixel-by-pixel (which they should, if the video crop had been a plain, unscaled crop).

Changing the size of the video crop image until they superimposed perfectly, I found that the cropped area is exactly 1720 x 968, but resized to 1920x1080.

Maybe this has been discussed before, sorry for duplicating in that case, but I just did some experimenting with my EOS-M, and noted that the video crop mode uses only 1720 x 968 pixels of the sensor, not the full 1920x1080. (It's the same in other EOS cameras, too. AFAIK...)

Why use a smaller area and scale it up?

Wouldn't it even be less processor-intensive to use the unscaled 1920x1080, or is this impossible to implement for some reason ?

With a class 10 card, 1.7 x bitrate already causes buffer overflow on my EOS-M. I'd guess it does so sooner on the older 550D...

Post an example so we can see it ourselves.

Mu guess: Compression artifacts.

Maybe a stupid question: Has the protection tab on the side of the card inadvertently slid to "lock"?

EOS-M as an action camera? Well, dont trip, fall or have a parachute that doesn't open...

Check out the $80 "Mobius" camera - picture as good as a Hero 3, people say. I got one yesterday, already had it in the sky on a little quadcopter, looks promising!

This may be a stupid question, but have you checked that the card's write-protect tab hasn't inadvertently been slid to "lock" ?

Edit: It is of course possible that the lock-tab switch in the iMac is stuck...

Here's a video I shot with my T2i/550D a couple of years ago - unfortunately, YouTube compression is horrible...

Exposure 15 sec/frame, interval 20 seconds. Lens was Tamron 10-24mm at f/3.5. Not shot with ML, but a plug-in intervalometer.

No development skills needed, just some free time to do boring tests

What kinds of tests? I've been trying out a few ML and TL builds this week, and there are some stability problems. Shutter bug, freezes (keeps blinking orange), loss of liveview in photo mode (requiring clearing all camera settings), etc.

Anything particular I can help with? I use manual lenses mainly, but have the 11-22mm and the 22mm STMs.

No, I haven't shot RAW, only h.264.

But the 11-22 looks great even in full-size 18 Mpix stills - runs rings around my Tamron 10-24mm!

I'm satisfied with the h.264 quality of the T2i and the M, anything I shoot commercially will be shown in SD, anyway...

[four]

I have also encountered the shutter bug with the 11-22 lens, but was able to reset by clearing all camera settings in the "wrench" menu. I've also had some other freezes, camera not switching on, just blinking, etc. Removing the battery has helped - so far - phew!

I hope the EOS-M build will be back soon in a more stable incarnation; it's missing from the drop-down menu at the moment.

I really need the video 3x crop, I want to use my 4mm (yes, only four mm!) C-mount lens!

The shutterbug appears when you use the EFM 18-55 lens oin the M with ML.

Also with the 11-22 EFM lens. Got it three times in a row, even after removing battery - maybe should have left battery out for longer?

Love the lens, by the way; beautiful shots so far.

Can't wait till I get mine... it was shipped 4 days ago...

"MacBoot.class" will enable you to set the boot flag on the memory card. I did, ML now works on my EOS-M.

Remember that the C-mount has a 1/32" (almost exactly 0.8 mm) pitch; you can easily calculate the thickness of the shim from that, checking how many degrees you have to unscrew the lens to get infinity focus when the focus ring is on infinity...

I had to add a very thin shim to my 12.5-75mm zoom to get it to keep focus over the zoom range.

Focusing at telephoto, and zooming to wide, the focus shifted from infinity to 3 meters, and calculating with the lens formula 1/a + 1/b = 1/f  thus 1/x + 1/3000 = 1/12.5 gave me ∆f = 0.052 mm - so, two layers of scotch tape between lens and adapter was enough!

I think it's an effect of overlaying exposures that basically have the star in the same position = it gets lighter in the combination.

Here's a shot with my T2i and the Meyer Orestegor 135/2.8 lens - just 3 x 30-second exposures combined in Photoshop, no special software.  The problem here in Southern Finland is the light pollution, I can never get a really black sky!

Haven't got mine yet.

But, don't fret about that infinity focus - there's quite a bit of tolerance in cheap CCTV lenses.

If you get infinity by unscrewing the lens, it means you will be able to shim it slightly, i.e a little ring of some suitable material between the lens and the adapter takes care of it.

OTOH, you will get infinity without any shim, but the scale on the lens will be off a bit. Happens with most CCTV lenses. You do focus via the finder, right? It may even be possible to correct the error, if the focus ring is movable - are there some very small screws along the rim? But don't mess with them if you're not sure what you're doing...

Much worse is not getting to infinity at all, then some lathe or mill work is needed to seat the lens further inwards.

Thanks for sharing!

Thanks, a1ex, that was an interesting little video. Loved the math formula, it looked kinda cool!

I had my chances

They still abound on eBay.