Canon EOS M

[dfort]

Dfort awhile ago you mentioned a zoom mode that was capable of2592x1108 or something like that.. is that do-able on the eos m? And if so how do you do it?

Here's a better explanation.

Turn on the raw video (MLV preferred) module. Now change your display using the INFO button in order to access the magnifying button. On the EOSM it is only on the touch screen and is located on the lower right side.



Tap the magnifying glass icon until you get into 5x zoom mode. Now when you go back to the raw settings you can set the resolution to a maximum of 2496x1074.



Note that at this resolution the write speed needed is 134.0 MB/s and the EOSM tops out at about 21 MB/s but I just tried it and the camera can record 1 second, give or take a couple frames. That's all that fits in the buffer at that resolution. Not very practical but it is doable.

Besides the short recording times you'll also have to deal with figuring out how to accurately frame the shot because there are no crop marks to show where the image cuts off.

[davebreal]

I am trying unsuccesfully to use PowerSave on my EOS M using the intervalometer in 5 second intervals, I have image review turned off in the Canon menu.  I would like to turn the LCD off during record but am unable to.  I have the option turned on in the Magic Lantern menu but my LCD stays active the whole time the camera is shooting.

Anything else I can try?
Do I need to actually turn image review on??

Thanks!

[Licaon_Kter]

I asked this somewhere else and no, you can't.
Post #701 and #702 here: http://www.magiclantern.fm/forum/index.php?topic=12523.msg145189#msg145189

[a1ex]

@davebreal: the 5-second interval is a bit too small: ML powersave kicks in after the picture is fully taken and nearly processed (ML is a bit conservative here, sometimes waiting more than necessary, in order to prevent camera-specific quirks). With a 10-second interval, it works just fine on a 700D, for example.

For your case, I recommend enabling image review, in order to prevent the camera from going back to LiveView. The biggest power hog is not the display - it's the sensor in LiveView. For the display, just set the brightness to minimum.

To turn the display off, you can write a short Lua script, but I doubt it will make any real difference.

@Licaon_Kter: you asked about something else.

[Teamsleepkid]

thank you dfort. i guess i thought since it was windowing the sensor it would be lower bitrate. 100MB per second aint gonna work lol.

[Oswald]

I found  bug. I was on crete and it was very warm in there. I found out that if cam temperature rises over 45 celsius or something like that, camera temperature  meter shows -60 Celsius.  When I am home, I can show screen shots. I am using i think  latest build.

[droogy]

Hi there, just installed the latest version of ML successfully on my EOS M. Use it with a non-AF Nikkor f 2,8/28mm lens. Works just fine. The only thing puzzling me is the temperature. Camera gets warm in a hurry. Shows 41 C just after a few shots. Then "-60 Celsius". Is there a danger to the camera's electronics?

[dfort]

Interesting, I checked it out and saw the temperature go from 41 to -60.

Opened a bug report on this:

https://bitbucket.org/hudson/magic-lantern/issues/2596/temp-goes-from-41-c-to-60-c

[jgrauman]

Hi all!

Thanks for all the work on ML, I love it so far! I've been reading on HDMI out. I don't have a way to record HDMI and am considering buying ablackmagic  decklink mini recorder to do so. So, how does the quality of HDMI out stack up to regular avchd at 1080p30? I know it has black bars on sides, but that could be livable for me if quality otherwise is good. Also, my TV says the HDMI is 1080i, but I don't know if that means 1080i60 or 1080i30 or something else? Thanks so much, and sorry if I somehow missed that info!

[dfort]

Magic Lantern can turn off the overlays on the EOSM so it outputs a clean signal from the HDMI output.

http://wiki.magiclantern.fm/userguide#clear_overlays

The black bars on the side are because it doesn't output a 1920x1080 signal, most cameras don't. The exception being the 5D3. However, there are users who are using external recorders and are reporting good results. Just a little blowup in post is all that's needed to fill the frame. The EOSM signal should be about the same as the DSLR's so it should be fine. Note that the camera screen will go blank when going out HDMI. Again, the 5D3 is the only Magic Lantern enabled camera that I know of that can mirror the image in the Live View when connected to an external monitor.

Note that the picture style affects the output so if you are serious about this consider using a log picture style like CineStyle, EOSHD C-LOG or one of the reverse engineered CineStyle picture styles.

[jgrauman]

Thanks so much for the reply! I saw how to turn off displays, which got me excited! Thanks for the tips!!

This is a bit random, but would it be difficult to put all the black bars on the left or right? Maybe an option for image a) center, b) left, c) right? Normally I could just do it in post, but I'm trying to do some things live with the stream and don't think I can easily move the image.

Thanks!

[dfort]

...would it be difficult to put all the black bars on the left or right?

That sounds hard, certainly way beyond my abilities. You might post it in the feature requests topic.

[madz]

Hi everyone!

I was testing a noncrop RAW video recording and got a problem.



This is a screenshot 200% crop from MLVP (same situation in ML RAW Viewer and RAW2cDNG). I understand, that it's canon's downscale with skipping lines, plus ML squeezes image vertically, which leads to heavy moire and ladders. But where did these false blue and red pixels came from, looks like color moire? Is there a way to fix it while exporting RAW (without post in LR or PS)?
Shot RAW 1728x434 ISO 320 50mm f/2.8 (same thing at all ISO settings)

P.S. I would love to shoot in crop mode (fantastic quality), but it need's fast wide lens and I can't afford it at this moment.
P.P.S. Sorry for bad english

[mlentuzijast]

Hello all
Not sure if this is the right place to ask for eos-M help but If I'm wrong please move my post to appropriate subforum.

First off thanks to all of you who are taking the time to develop this fantastic software. Been using it on all my canon cameras and still learning.
Recently I bought a canon eos-M and have installed latest nightly on it but I'm having some issues with magic zoom and my manual lens samyang 85mm F/1,4. When I try to focus green bars do not show up and I'm not sure if I am in focus or not.

So my question is does eos-m support magic zoom or if some one has noticed issue with magic zoom in latest nightlies ?

Any input is appreciated.

[dfort]

I was testing a noncrop RAW video recording and got a problem.

That is a great test. It clearly illustrates the issues with mv720 mode. The EOSM is the only camera that doesn't do mv1080 mode. I've got a feature request for it but it isn't an easy fix. Basically mv720 does a 3x5 line skip which creates lots of aliasing, mv1080 does a 3x3 pattern which also suffers from aliasing but not nearly as much. Note that there is also some aliasing in crop mode, there's no way to get around it because of the way the sensor was designed.

The little color dots you're seeing and possibly the vertical color lines may be artifacts from the focus pixels. It was an interesting journey dealing with focus pixels. I ended up mapping all of the focus pixels for the affected cameras starting with the EOSM and @dmilligan coded a fix into MLVFS. I assume that @AWPStar is using the same algorithm in MLVProducer. Basically to hide the focus pixels the surrounding pixels need to be averaged. Dual ISO was a problem because of the alternating horizontal lines of light and dark so the averaging is only done on the pixels in the horizontal axis. This usually works fine until you get into fine details that are one pixel wide. That might be what's causing those vertically colored lines.

P.S. I would love to shoot in crop mode (fantastic quality), but it need's fast wide lens and I can't afford it at this moment.

What is unique about the EOSM in crop mode is that you can use C-mount lenses. There's a bunch of cheap fast lenses out there though the quality isn't exactly fantastic. On the plus side crappy lenses do tame moiré. There are some nice quality vintage C-mount lenses made for 16mm but it seems that collectors are bidding up the prices on ebay.

...I'm having some issues with magic zoom and my manual lens samyang 85mm F/1,4. When I try to focus green bars do not show up and I'm not sure if I am in focus or not.

The EOSM supports magic zoom but I'm not very familiar with it, I prefer focus peaking when using manual lenses. You said that the issue is with your manual lens. Is it a chipped lens? Assuming it is an EF mount which lens adapter are you using? Do you have the same issue with an EF-M lens?

[mlentuzijast]

The EOSM supports magic zoom but I'm not very familiar with it, I prefer focus peaking when using manual lenses. You said that the issue is with your manual lens. Is it a chipped lens? Assuming it is an EF mount which lens adapter are you using? Do you have the same issue with an EF-M lens?

I also like focus peaking but at times I find it touch off-focus. Until few min ago samyang 85mm F/1.4 was my only manual lens that I used with canon genuine EF to EF-M adapter. Its not chipped so manual all the way. I see no change with magic zoom with my FD 28mm F/2.8 lens as well. Reason that I am asking is that on my 5D mark2 I also use magic zoom but there I get 2 green bars confirmation when shot is in focus (same lens samyang 85mm) while on eos-m I do not. Its a minor issue but still would like to have this option on my eos-m if possible. I do not own any eos-m lenses so I cant compare.

[madz]

The little color dots you're seeing and possibly the vertical color lines may be artifacts from the focus pixels. It was an interesting journey dealing with focus pixels. I ended up mapping all of the focus pixels for the affected cameras starting with the EOSM and @dmilligan coded a fix into MLVFS. I assume that @AWPStar is using the same algorithm in MLVProducer. Basically to hide the focus pixels the surrounding pixels need to be averaged. Dual ISO was a problem because of the alternating horizontal lines of light and dark so the averaging is only done on the pixels in the horizontal axis. This usually works fine until you get into fine details that are one pixel wide. That might be what's causing those vertically colored lines.

Yeah I read that few days ago, because that was the very first problem that popped up in testing RAW. Great job done, thank you!
BTW need to compare to 720 h264 for color moire... Because 1080 h264 didn't have that.

What is unique about the EOSM in crop mode is that you can use C-mount lenses. There's a bunch of cheap fast lenses out there though the quality isn't exactly fantastic. On the plus side crappy lenses do tame moiré. There are some nice quality vintage C-mount lenses made for 16mm but it seems that collectors are bidding up the prices on ebay.

I did some quick search for C-mount lens on ebay and Aliexpress, but most of them are noname 25mm+ (160mm equivalent in crop mode). And I need something in 35-80mm eq. range. Also looked for vintage USSR fisheyes, but they are very rare or not fast enough.

Looks like I'll have continue to shoot in flat h264

P.S. did compare test



in fact I can see red and blue cast on 720 h264 at the same place like in RAW, but codec's blur hides it (plus flat cinestyle profile) and it becomes not so noticeable.

P.P.S. yeah... mv1080 would solve lot of issues...
Just one more thought:
I read somewhere that mv1080 mode turns on with beginning h264 recording. <stupid idea>CPU probably won't handle it, but still, what if we set lowest h264 bitrate possible (CBR 0.1x or VBR Qscale 16, may be something even lower is possible) and write both h264 + RAW? (we can also grab audio track from h264)</stupid idea>

[dfort]

@madz

Wow, great tests.

Your ideas aren't stupid. In fact it is along the lines that a1ex, the main developer, suggested to get mv1080 working on the EOSM.

You should be able to find C-mount lenses much wider than 25mm. In my lens stash I've got a Rainbow H6x8 II 8 48mm F1.0 TV Zoom Lens, Ricoh 8.5mm f/1.5 and a Ricoh 4.8mm f/1.8. The 8-48 F1.0 zoom you'll have to search for but the others are still in production. These aren't great lenses but ok if you're going for a vintage Super8 movie look.

Keep up the good work. You're helping elevate the EOSM to the next level.

@Licaon_Kter, any thoughts on the Magic Zoom issue @mlentuzijast is reporting?

BTW--I'll be offline for about a month so excuse my slow response time.

[Licaon_Kter]

Magic Zoom is not something that I use, not sure if because it does not work as well or anything else, although I do like do play with my OM Zuiko glass, I just use the zebras.

I'll take a look asap.

[madz]

@dfort

Your ideas aren't stupid. In fact it is along the lines that a1ex, the main developer, suggested to get mv1080 working on the EOSM.

h264 1080p @ 0.1x bitrate takes about half megabyte per second + PCM stereo 48/16 audio up to 0.2MB. So it's less than 2% from EOS-M SD module write speed (I have card with bit overkill). I'm fine with that, just hope that CPU can handle that.
Do you know if fixing mv1080 on EOS-M is in the plans for some near future or should I save the money for other camera like 650D for example?

[Teamsleepkid]

Yes mv1080!! please please. Great ideas!

[reece]

Hello everybody.
Please excuse me in advance if this is not the correct place for this question.
I am looking to modify the EOS M3 functionality, specifically the AEB (auto exposure bracking), with different variables. Currently it does e +/- 2 ev range. I've seen that other (higher class) Canon cameras can go up to +/- 8 ev, which is a much larger scope. Can this sort of upgrade/modification be done ?

Thank you in advance!

[Teamsleepkid]

I could be wrong but I don't think there's anything going on with the M3. Aparently it runs on the powershot firmware. There's CHDK they work on powershot stuff. Look that up.

[dfort]

I could be wrong but I don't think there's anything going on with the M3...

Well maybe if an EOS-M3 user is willing to help out?

http://magiclantern.fm/forum/index.php?topic=14990.msg169808#msg169808

[Shutterbutton]

Quick question to anyone who shoots video. I've recently started using external microphones with this camera and have come across an issue that I've never found in the 1+ year of using this camera with ML. If you record in h.264 with FPS override your audio will be disabled  only if you have a microphone plugged in.

I tested this with and without a microphone and only having a mic plugged in with FPS override kills the audio signal. Does anyone know the reason for this? Seems very random, as the camera has the ability to record the audio signal with nothing plugged into the jack.

Issue doesn't exist in RAW due to the MLV option for audio.